Cook's Tourist's Handbook for Southern Italy and Rome (2024)

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Cook's Tourist's Handbook for Southern Italy and Rome

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COOK'STOURIST'S HANDBOOKFORSOUTHERN ITALYANDROME.EUROPECOOKLONDON:THOMAS COOK & SON, LUDGATE CIRCUS, E.C.;SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & Co.NEW YORK: THOMAS COOK & SON, 261, BROADWAY.ROME: THOMAS COOK & SON, IB, PIAZZA DI SPAGNA.1884.BODLEIANLIBRARY22 JUL 04OXFORDPREFACE.In this Handbook the Editor has endeavoured to give a conciseand practical account of all the main routes in Southern Italy;to describe every town and village of importance; to showhow the principal places of interest may be visited to the bestadvantage; and to supply such general information as will beuseful to the traveller.The Editor has not attempted to describe everything inItaly, but to call attention to everything that is really important and interesting. Whenever he could find an aptquotation from any well- known author, especially with reference to works of art, he has not scrupled to avail himselfof such assistance, believing that it will add to the value andinterest of the book.Special attention has been given to make this Handbookas simple in its arrangement as possible; and to print it sothat it may be readable. Guide-books, however good, arecomparatively worthless unless the information sought canbe found without difficulty, and can be read while walking,or travelling in the railway carriage. This book has beenprinted, therefore, in clear, legible type, with all objects ofinterest marked conspicuously, so as readily to arrest thevi PREFACE.eye. At a glance, any remarkable picture, for example, withthe name of the artist, can be ascertained without having tosearch for it in a crowded page of small print, as is toofrequently the case in guide-books.The Editor will esteem it a favour if those who use thisbook will kindly point out to him any inaccuracies they maydetect, or alterations they may deem advisable; and any suggestions of a practical nature, for insertion in future editions,will be gratefully acknowledged.CONTENTS.INTRODUCTORYPassports, 1; Language, 2; Luggage, 3; Custom- house Exami- nation , 3; Money, 3; Money Table, 3; Time- tables, 6; Time for Visiting Italy, 6; Purchases, 6; Fees, 6; Hotels and Hotel Coupons, 6; Cook's Travelling Coupons, 7; Churches, 7; Planof Tour, 8; English Churches, 8; Mosquitoes, 8; Postage, 8 .FROM GENOA TO ROME ( via Spezia, Pisa, and Leghorn) .Spezia PisaLeghorn •FROM LEGHORN TO CIVITA VECCHIA (by Sea)FROM LEGHORN TO ROME (by Rail)BOLOGNA TO ROME ( via ANCONA) .Ravenna .PAGEI-89• 9II1820202223Rimini ·Pesaro Urbino Ancona283232 36Foligno FLORENCE TO ROME (via Arezzo, Perugia, and Foligno) .3839Arezzo 39Cortona 42Perugia 44·•••NAPLES .AssisiFLORENCE TO ROME (via Siena and Orvieto) .Siena OrvietoROME •ENVIRONS OF ROMEFROM ROME TO NAPLESCapua Caserta FROM ANCONA TO NAPLESLoretoPESCARA TO AQUILA AND TERNIAquila BeneventoEnvirons of Naples49585971153163 168170170 171174175 180183 248Pozzuoli • 251Baiæ 260Misenum 261Cumæ · 263Islands of Procida and Ischia · 264 ·viii CONTENTS.FROM NAPLES TO POMPEIIVesuvius .POMPEII NAPLES TO EBOLISalerno Amalfi Pæstum Castellamare Sorrento .Capri•NAPLES TO NOLA AND AVELLINOFOGGIA TO BRINDISI Brindisi Brindisi to Otranto Bari to TarantoTARANTOTaranto to Reggio THE ISLANDS·•

PAGE266267• 271302 303 305 306 307 308• 309· 310312 · 315 317 318• 319320• 323ELBACORSICA .• 323·Ajaccio to Bastia 99 Calvi to Bastia Corte to VicoSARDINIA•(via Sartene and Bonifacio)• 324 325 327 326326327SICILY ·Messina Lipari Islands Messina to CataniaTaormina• 329 331 • 332 333Catania •Etna333 334•Catania to Syracuse335Syracuse337•Palermo337 339APPENDIX.Festivals, Fêtes, Fairs, etc. Itinerary of Through Routes, Stations,Programme of Routes341and Distances 350INDEX •LIST OF HOTELS. (See Appendix. )MAPS355· 363Ralway Map of Northern Italy.Railway Map of Southern Italy.Plan of Rome.Map of Naples and Environs.Plan of Pompeii.COOK'SHANDBOOK FOR SOUTHERN ITALYAND ROME.Introductory.Passports may not be required, but they should be taken. They do notneed a visa for British or American travellers in Italy. There are manyoccasions when a passport is of advantage; and as the cost is now verytrifling, it is well to be provided with one. It will sometimes procure admission to museums or palaces when nothing else will, and it is alwaysuseful in obtaining delivery of letters from the poste restante. Messrs. Cookand Son, Ludgate Circus, E.C. , will procure passports, if desired; orthey may be obtained direct from the Foreign Office, Downing Street, uponrecommendation, as shown below; or through any of the agencies estab- lished for the purpose.The Regulations of the Foreign Office are as follows: -British subjects can be supplied with Passports on application to theSecretary of State for Foreign Affairs. Only one Passport is required forall the Members of a Family or Party travelling together.RECOMMENDATION ON BEHALF OF APPLICANTS.British subjects may obtain a Recommendation signed by any Mayor,Provost, or other Chief Magistrate in the Corporate Towns of the UnitedKingdom, or by any Magistrate or Justice of the Peace, or by any Ministerof Religion of whatever denomination, Physician, Surgeon, Solicitor,Banker, or Notary, resident in the United Kingdom.N.B. In writing the Forms, all Christian and Surnames must bewritten in full. The address of the Bearer of the Passport must be stated,and he and every other Gentleman ( if several be included in one Passport),and every Man- servant must be described as " British Subjects, " theirnames being given in full. Female Servants, English or Foreign, need notbe named, but must be classed as Women- Servants.I2 INTRODUCTORY.A Naturalized British Subject, whether Gentleman or Servant, willrequire a separate Passport under Special Regulations. His Certificate ofNaturalization must be sent with the Application, and personal attendanceat the Foreign Office will be necessary; unless the Application be madethrough the " Recommendation " of a County Magistrate or Justice of thePeace, &c. , in which case the Certificate will be sent back with thePassport to the Magistrate, who will require personal application for them.A Foreigner, whether Gentleman or Servant, must be provided witha Passport from his own Government or Consul.The Letter of Application or Recommendation should be directed as under:-PASSFORT.To Her Majesty's Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs,Passport Office,Downing Street,Whitehall, S.W.SPECIMEN LETTER OF RECOMMENDATION."JAN. 1st, 1884."The undersigned, John Jones, Clergyman ofthe Church of England,residing at 8, York Terrace, Carlisle, in the County of Cumberland, herebycertifies that William Brown, whose signature is written at foot, is aBritish Born Subject, and requires a Passport to enable him to travel onthe Continent, accompanied by his wife."JOHN JONES, M.A., Vicar of St. Bede's."WILLIAM BROWN, 44, Castle Ross, Carlisle." To H.M. Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs. "The above letter may be enclosed to Thomas Cook and Son, LudgateCircus, E.C.; or it may be sent direct to the Foreign Office, and a notesent to Messrs. Cook, authorizing them to receive the Passport on behalf ofthe applicant. Application should be made at least two clear days beforethe Passport is required.Language. So many thousands flock annually over most ofthe routesdescribed in this book that nothing save the mother tongue is absolutelyessential. English is spoken in all the principal hotels, and interpretersmay be met with at the principal railway stations. Ofcourse a knowledgeof Italian and French will prove of great advantage, and those whoexplore remote regions will find it indispensable, but no one need hesitateto visit Italy on the score of not knowing anything save English; and to these we would say, an hour or two spent in learning Italian numeralsand common-place phrases will enable them to combat cab- drivers andothers who might be disposed to take them in. We recommend thoseMONEY TABLES. 3who do not know anything of Italian, and perhaps not much French, topurchase " The Tourist's Shilling Conversational Guide, " in English,French, German, and Italian, by Dr. J. T. Loth (sold by Thos. Cookand Son, Ludgate Circus, and at their branch offices) .Luggage should always be estimated on this wise: How much canpossibly be dispensed with? It is an immense advantage to be burdenedwith no more than can be carried in the hand. The portmanteau, or whatever it may be, should have a good lock, and be so constructed that it willopen easily. It must be borne in mind that in Italy all luggage whichcannot be carried in the hand is charged for. It therefore becomes anexpensive item in excess, besides being a great inconvenience.Custom House Examinations are of a very mild nature, andthe " one-trunk " tourist will rarely have to do more than open his port.manteau and close it again . It is safer, pleasanter, and wiser not to carryanything excisable, and so be able to assert boldly there is no prohibitedarticle to declare. All the Italian towns have gates , and in passing themthe traveller must declare that he carries nothing subject to duty, and hewill be allowed to pass without trouble.Money. -Messrs. Thos. Cook and Son issue Circular Notes of thevalue of £5 or 10 sterling, which are accepted at all their continentalagencies, and by the principal hotel keepers. The chief advantages aresafety, as they cannot be cashed without the holder's endorsem*nt, andconvenience of exchange, at any hour, in small sums of the currency ofeach country at the full rates of exchange. Foreign money can also be obtained of Thos. Cook and Son.English sovereigns are received almost everywhere, but it is better tochange them into French gold before entering Italy. Foreign currency isalways puzzling, and it will be well for every tourist to familiarize himselfwith the following tables:-FRANCE.Monetary Unit-the Franc of 100 Centimes.Bronze 5 centimes""Silver -20ΙΟ """""" 50· ·s. d.= o o= O I2""دوGold -""I franc2 ""5 ",5ΙΟ""""=0 91==I 7O- 8 O20 "" The " Napoleon, " or " Louis "" = 16 OExchange varies from 25'10 to 25* 35.4INTRODUCTORY.NickelBELGIUM.Monetary Unit-the Franc of 100 Centimes.-5 centimes •99 •"" ΙΟSilver -50""Gold -I franc2520""99""Exchange, 2515 to 25'40.SWITZERLAND.Monetary Unit-the Franc of 100 Centimes.Nickel-- 5 centimes •"" ΙΟ 29 •22 Silver -50""20 """"I franc29 2 ""s. d.== O I= 0 4= 0 91 = I 7=== 16464 0==OI2=41 = 091= I 7= 4 0 5By a Convention, the silver and gold coins of France, Belgium, and Switzerland circulate and are legal tender in all three countries.Bronze--""SilverITALY.Monetary Unit-the Lira of 100 Centesime.5 centesime .ΙΟ 99 20 99 •= O IO2'""""""Gold2250I lira2 995 ,, 10 ,20 ",""0 9I= 4 O= 8 o= 16 OPaper money is also in circulation in notes of 50 centesime; 1, 2, 5, 10, 20,50, 100, 500, and 1000 lire.MONEY TABLES. 5S. d.====OOOO0 21I6GERMANY.Monetary Unit-the Mark of 100 Pfennige.Copper- 1 Pfennige""NickelSilver -202 ""5 ""ΙΟ """"" 50 """" I Mark""23""""""Gold -"" (Thaler)5 ""5 """" ΙΟ """" 20 ""OOOOOO= 20 O 235508====-Paper money is also issued by the State in notes of 5 , 20, 50, 100, 500,and 1000 marks, and is at par with gold.Exchange varies from 20°30 to 20˚50.AUSTRIA.Monetary Unit-the Florin of 100 Kreuzers.The value ofthe metallic florin is 2s. , but the circulating medium is nowentirely paper, with nickel and copper pieces for divisional money.The State issues paper money, which has a forced currency, in notes ofI, 5, 10, 50, 100 florins.Hungariannotes also circulate throughout Austria, and are of the same value,Exchange variesfrom 11'50 to 12:25 to the £ sterling.HOLLAND.Monetary Unit-1 Florin of 100 Centimes.Copper- I cent.Silver - 5 cents"" ΙΟ """" 25 """" 50"9 I florin"" 2 ,,Gold -10 florins=== Ο ΙΟ OOOOI20 5= I 8= 4 2= 16 8Exchange, 12'5 to 12° 15.6 INTRODUCTORY.Time Tables. -The official time- tables of the railway companiesshould be consulted upon every available opportunity, as alterations areconstantly taking place; and though such alterations are carefully watched,it is impossible for any general time-table to guarantee complete accuracy."Cook's Continental Time- Tables and Tourist's Handbook " is publishedat Is.; post- free, Is. 2d.Time for Visiting Italy.-For nine months of the year Italy isenjoyable-namely, from September to May,-but especially so in thespring and autumn months.In making purchases at shops in Italy, remember that it is thecustom of the country to ask considerably more than the seller will beprepared to take. Do not hesitate, therefore, to drive a bargain; andeven the notice " Fixed Prices " need not always be read literally.Fees are given by English and Americans with far too lavish a hand,and much annoyance is caused to other travellers, and injury done to thepeople in the countries visited, by this habit. Porters carrying luggagewill generally make extortionate demands. Ask the hotel proprietor topay what is a fair sum. At churches and galleries half a franc is quiteenough for a couple of persons, as a rule, although this may sometimes beincreased to a franc. A sou, or any small coin, is sufficient for the legionsof beggars besetting one's way; and probably one franc put into the box ofa local society for relief of the poor would be better spent than two francsdistributed amongst them in sous. Make a rule of never going out withouta supply of small coins, however, but never use them lavishly. Let thetraveller make a favour of giving a sou, and he will be respected. Nevergive a sou to one beggar in the presence of another.Hotels abound, and , as a rule, are good. Unfortunately, a systemprevails in Italy of charging fancy prices, and hotel keepers are not differentfrom their brethren in other branches of business. A bargain mustalways be made, and even then it is well to have the bill every other dayor so, in order to see how things are going. Messrs. Cook and SonsupplyHotel Coupons; and as they are available at Hotels which can bewell recommended, every one should provide himself with them. ( Fullparticulars as to Hotels and Hotel Arrangements by Coupons will be foundin the Appendix. )The advantages of taking Hotel Coupons may be briefly summed up asfollows:-I. Time, expense, annoyance in bargaining, and ultimate dissatisfaction,are saved by going to a well- recommended Hotel.II. It is a great drawback to pleasure to arrive in a foreign town besetHOTELS-CHURCHES. 7by porters, commissionaires, and rabble, a perfect stranger, and withoutany definite idea where to go.III. Letters from home, or telegrams, may be found upon arrival at theHotel, thus saving trouble or expense in sending for them to the PostOffice.IV. The charges are all fixed , thus obviating the chance of imposition,and the disagreeable task ofhaving to drive a bargain at each stopping- place.V. The charges being fixed at the lowest sum to insure good accommodation at one uniform rate, the tourist is enabled to count the cost of histour before starting.VI. Travellers with coupons, bespeaking accommodation by letter ortelegram, are always provided for, even in the busiest seasons, if theyinform the hotel keeper that they have coupons.Routes should be carefully selected , and plans well digested , beforestarting; and in order to assist in this, a list will be found in theAppendix which will supply ample information.Cook's Travelling Coupons are now so well known and universally used, that they need but little description . Suffice it to say, thatif there are advantages in knowing of cheap, comfortable, and well recommended Hotels wherein to rest, there are a hundredfold more in having allthe difficulties of travel made smooth. The most inexperienced may availthemselves of them without fear of not being able to get on, and the mostexperienced take them as the simplest, easiest, and cheapest means oftravelling.Churches should be visited in the morning, as they are then openfree, and can be viewed with greater pleasure on account of the light.Moreover, it is a great saving in expense, as later in the day a fee isdemanded or expected by the sacristan who opens them for visitors. Nowhere in the world can such glorious edifices be seen, such treasures ofsacred and legendary art, such magnificence in architecture; and oftenthose which are poorest in outside appearance are richest in internal decoration. It will not be taken unkindly by the tourist to be reminded thatthe many attractions in the churches sometimes cause him to forget thatthey are places of worship; and if for his own convenience and pleasurehe visits them at times when they are frequented by worshippers, he should be careful to abandon the use of opera-glasses, guide-books, and otheraccessories, if they are likely to prove a hindrance to the devotions ofothers. Unfortunately, this has been disregarded so much-and notablyby English and Americans-that it has been found necessary in some churches to write over the entrance, "Honour is due to God's House. " Aword to the wise is enough.8 INTRODUCTORY.Plan of Tour. -This must be fixed before starting, and when fixed,keep to it. Much time and trouble will be saved if every dayaprogrammeis madefor the morrow, —and this remark especially applies to large cities,as Rome, Naples, etc.English Churches are not mentioned specially in this work, as inevery Hotel frequented by the English, notices are abundant in which timeand place are recorded. . Changes are often made, too, both as regards theplace and the time, and no difficulty will be found in obtaining accurate information.Mosquitoes abound in the autumn. See to it, therefore, that propermosquito curtains are supplied. Shake them well before going to bed, andbe satisfied that no intruders are within. Then " tuck up " the bed withthe curtains, and peace may be insured. By no means let the window beopen when a light is burning. Salvolatile- and- water alleviates the pain ofmosquito bites, and reduces any swelling arising therefrom .Postage.-Letters can be sent to France, Switzerland, Italy, etc. , at21d. under the half- ounce. Twenty-five centimes for letters from thosecountries to England.From Genoa to Rome.Via Spezia, Pisa, and Leghorn,EVERAL new lines of railway have been opened lately innow connects Genoa with Spezia and Pisa by the far- famed routeof the Riviera, thus completing the connections of the CornicheLine with the coast route from Genoa to Rome. The distancebetween Genoa and Rome is about 312 miles, and the directtrain performs the journey in twelve hours. The viewsthroughout are charming. Between Genoa and Pisa theline combines the scenery of the carriage road, and on theright the open sea with its exquisite bays and coast effects.The stations passed are Sturla, Quarto, Quinto, Nervi Bogliasco,Pievi di Sori. Sori (fine view from fine viaduct) . Ricco, veryprettily situated. Camogli. Then through a tunnel in therock forming the promontory of S. Margherita. The view isvery fine on emerging from the tunnel, the Bay of Rapallobeing skirted. The town of Rapallo is quaint, its arcades andtowers very picturesque. The population is about 10,000.There is a pilgrimage church hard by, with a picture alleged tobe miraculous; a fête is held yearly in honour of the miraculousarrival of the picture in Italy. Then Zongli and Chiavari,another of those picturesque towns which can only be seen inItaly. It bristles with towers, and is beautifully situated in thecentre of the bay. Then Lavagna and Sestri Levantewhich was formerly the terminus of the railway. It stands on a promontory, with the sea on both sides. Good bathing here.Then stations Moneglia, Deiva, Framura, Bonassola, Levanto,Monterosso (the coast is here of a more rugged character),Corniglia, Riomaggiore, andSPEZIA.(Hotels. -See Appendix. )Spezia stands at the head of the Gulf of Spezia in a beautifulsituation, between two fortified ranges of rocks. It is a favourite1Ο GENOA TO PISA.bathing and boating place, and the environs are delightful,notably Porto-Venere. Its most remarkable structures are theold citadel and the ancient castle of the Visconti. In the baymay be seen the strange appearance called polla, a hemisphericalswell of the sea caused by a submarine spring of fresh water.The diameter of the polla is twenty- five feet.The marine Dockyard arsenal of Spezia, one of the mostprominent in Italy, can be visited on application.Resuming the railway journey, station Arcola is reached;then Sarzana, an interesting old town with a chequered history,having been possessed by Romans, Florentines, French, and Suabians. Its castle and fortifications are extensive. AtAvenza (a little town with a large castle) there is a branch line to Carrara, a journey of twelve minutes. From the arrival atCarrara at least four to five hours should be allowed for seeing the quarries and the studios. For the former the visit should, if66:-possible, be made before two o'clock , as the workmen are thenengaged in their labours. There are many wonderful things tosee in Carrara, and the visitor will like to read in the midst ofthem a very choice thought of the late Charles DickensStanding in one of the many studii of Carrara, that afternoon-for it is a great workshop, full of beautifully-finishedcopies in marble, of almost every figure, group, and bust weknow-it seemed, at first, so strange to me that those exquisiteshapes, replete with grace, and thought, and delicate repose,should grow out of all this toil, and sweat, and torture! But Isoon found a parallel to it, and an explanation of it, in everyvirtue that springs up in miserable ground, and every goodthing that has its birth in sorrow and distress. And, lookingout of the sculptor's great window, upon the marble mountains,all red and glowing in the decline of day, but stern and solemnto the last, I thought, My God! how many quarries of humanhearts and souls, capable of far more beautiful results, are leftshut up, and mouldering away: while pleasure- travellers throughlife avert their faces as they pass, and shudder at the gloom andruggedness that conceal them! "Leaving Avenza the stations passed are Massa, with extensive quarries, Querceta, Serravezza, Pietrasanta, Viareggio(p. 18), Torre del Lago, and then are seen the Leaning Tower,the Cathedral and Baptistery, and the traveller is at Pisa.Pisa.(Hotels. See Appendix.)PISA (population about 56,000) , the ancient rival of Florence,has dwindled down into a small provincial town, less than afifth of its former size. Grass-grown streets and vacant spaceswithin the walls, tell of past prosperity, and present decay.The city, which equipped 120 ships for the first crusade, whichreduced the Emperor Alexius to submission, which sent out anexpedition of 300 vessels, 35,000 men, and 900 horses for theconquest of the Balearic Islands, and which maintained mercantile colonies throughout Greece, the Levant, and Asia Minor,has now only half its former population."When we remember the wealth, the power, and the gloryof the Italian cities, an inquiry into the causes of their decaybecomes deeply interesting. It was due, in part, to the incessant hostilities which raged among them. The energy andgenius which ought to have been employed for mutual advantage, were wasted in frantic efforts for mutual destruction.Neighbouring cities waged war upon each other with insanefury; and each city was split up into hostile camps. Guelphsand Ghibelines, Bianchi and Neri, deluged the streets with eachother's blood."The great families held their palaces as strongholds, fittedeither for attack or defence. Every man's house was his castle,in a sense very different from that in which we understand thewords. In Rome the Colosseum, the Arch of Titus, the tombsof Hadrian and of Cecilia Metella, and the temples of the gods,were turned into fortresses by the Frangipani, the Annibaldi,the Arsini, and the Colonnas. Blood feuds, as causeless andas purposeless as an Irish faction-fight, were handed down fromfather to son through successive generations. Upon the languorcaused bycenturies of anarchy, there supervened the benumbinginfluences of despotism. The cities and the factions whichemerged victorious from the strife, crushed their rivals into the12 PISA.dust, whilst they themselves yielded to the domination of somegreat family to which they surrendered their liberties as theprice of revenge upon their enemies. It was at this period ofexhaustion that the discovery of the route to India by the Capedeprived the Italian cities of the advantages of position whichthey had hitherto enjoyed. The tide of commerce ebbed awayfrom their shores, and flowed into other channels. Spain,Portugal, and England gained what Italy had lost. It is a noteworthy coincidence that at the very time when the unification ofItaly under the present government has terminated the intestinefeuds of ages, the opening of the Suez Canal should againrestore to the Peninsula her former advantages of position, andcarry past her shores the commerce of the East."-Italian Pictures.It is a great mistake for travellers to think that they haveonly to leave their baggage at the station and run to the " FourMonuments," and then quit Pisa under the impression thatthey know all about the place. True, the four monuments arethe great attractions; but there are many others which thetraveller would do well to visit and enjoy in this quiet butinteresting old town.The Arno flows through the town, and is crossed by threebridges, the most important being the Ponte di Mezzo. TheFour Monuments are in the Piazza del Duomo, at the extreme north- west of the town, and isolated from it. Amore startlingly effective group of buildings it is difficult to conceive.The Cathedral (begun 1067) is a magnificent edifice,and gives a better idea of the former grandeur of Pisa than anywritten description. The structure is of white and colouredmarble, ornamented with relievos, columns and inscriptions;handsome doors, from a design of " Giovanni da Bologna.'Interior, gorgeous roof; altars, designed by Michael Angelo;old frescoes, Cimabue; remarkable pulpit, Nicolò Pisano; lampin nave, which gave the idea of the pendulum to Galileo; highaltar of lapis-lazuli; crucifix over it by Giov. da Bologna;carved stalls of great beauty in choir, Giuliano da Majano.There are several pictures of great interest, especiallySacrifice of Isaac, and EntombmentSt. AgnesThe Baptistery (begun 1153), a beautiful building, circular, all marble. The interior is plain. A fine pulpit byNicolò Pisano. The Echo in the Baptistery is marvellously•Sodoma.Andrea del Sarto.THE LEANING TOWER. 13beautiful. The attendant will sound four notes, and the resultis a glorious burst of harmony, which,while it is dying away, he will reawaken, and the two echo-choruseswill be heard. It is worth going toPisa to hear this alone.The Leaning Tower (belfrey, campanile, clock tower)is, as everybody knows, one of the wonders of the world. Itwas commenced in 1174, by Bonnano, of Pisa . It is in eightstories, nearly 180 feet high, and thirteen feet out of the perpendicular; an easy staircase of 294 steps leads to the top of the tower.Sismondi compares the tower to the usual pictorial repre- sentations in children's books of the Tower of Babel. It is ahappy simile, and conveys a better idea of the building thanchapters of laboured description . Nothing can exceed thegrace and lightness of the structure; nothing can be more re- markable than its general appearance. In the course of theascent to the top (which is by an easy staircase) , the inclinationis not very apparent; but, at the summit, it becomes so, andgives one the sensation of being in a ship that has heeled over,through the action of an ebb-tide. The effect upon the lowside, so to speak-looking over from the gallery, and seeing theshaft recede to its base-is very startling; and I saw a nervoustraveller hold on to the tower involuntarily, after glancingdown, as if he had some idea of propping it up. The viewwithin, from the ground-looking up, as through a slantedtube-is also very curious. It certainly inclines as much as themost sanguine tourist could desire. The natural impulse ofninety-nine people out of a hundred, who were about to reclineupon the grass below it, to rest, and contemplate the adjacentbuildings, would probably be not to take up their position underthe leaning side; it is so very much aslant. -Dickens.This tower has always left a lasting impression on theminds of all travellers, and this is well illustrated in the following passage, where even the pen of the irrepressible Mark Twain discusses it in earnest." It is a bell tower, and in its top hangs a chime of ancientbells . The winding staircase within is dark, but one alwaysknows which side of the tower he is on, because of his naturally gravitating from one side to the other of the staircase withthe rise or dip of the tower. Some of the stone steps are footworn only on one end; others only on the other end; others14 PISA.only in the middle. To look down into the tower from the top,is like looking down into a tilted well. A rope that hangsfrom the centre of the top touches the wall before it reachesthe bottom. Standing on the summit, one does not feel altogether comfortable when he looks down from the high side;but to crawl on your breast to the verge on the lower side, andtry to stretch your neck out far enough to see the base of the tower, makes your flesh creep, and convinces you for a singlemoment, in spite of ali your philosophy, that the building isfalling. You handle yourself, very carefully all the time, underthe silly impression that, if it is not falling, your trifling weightwill start it unless you are particular not to ' bear down 'on it."On some occasions the leaning tower is lit up by myriads oftwinkling lights. This is a sight that the traveller should endeavour to see if possible ( See Appendix, Calendar) , for it is oneof such singular beauty it can never be forgotten. The display(Luminara) comprises the following features. The six bottomstories of the tower are lit up by a fringe of fire, while a numberof lamps are placed behind the pillars, thus throwing them intobold relief, and giving the idea of a skeleton or transparentedifice. The whole is crowned by a blaze of light from the top of the tower.Free admission for not less than three persons, but a fee isexpected by the guardian.The Campo Santo. -In the year 1200, after the loss ofPalestine, Archbishop Ubaldo returned with fifty-three shiploads of holy ground, taken, it is alleged, from Mount Calvary,in which the devout might find burial. The structure, whichis similar in design to many kindred places in Italy, was designed by Giovanni Pisano. The arcades are supported by lightcolumns with figured capitals. The visitor will do well to walkround the arcades first, to study the marvellous old frescoesand the sarcophagi, and various sculptures, the latter being fromthe Etruscan and Roman up to some of the last works ofThorwaldsen, and even more modern artists. The most remarkable of the frescoes are those on the south wall, and of these the most famous are:The Triumph of DeathThe Last JudgmentHellAndrea Orcagna.99 Bernardo Orcagna.Some of the frescoes are so much defaced, owing to longTHE CAMPO SANTO. 15exposure, as scarcely to be discernible; but in many placesthere are traces remaining of fine old work, rough butvigorous.On the north wall should be noticed a series of paintingsby Benozzo Gozzoli: The History of David, Moses and Aaron,Joseph, Jacob and Esau, Isaac, The Tower of Babel, introducing portraits of Cosmo de Medici, with his son and grandson.Just below the fresco of Joseph is the spot where Gozzoli was buried.Among the more remarkable of the sculptures are,SOUTH. -Several sarcophagi of a very early date.Monument of Andrea Vacca (Occulist)Madonna and Six SaintsWEST.-Virgin and ChildCaritas and the Four Cardinal VirtuesMadonna•· Thorwaldsen.Tommaso Pisano.Giov. Pisano.Orcagna."(?)Dupré.Several good modern works • . Bust of CavourNORTH.-Madonna (terra cotta) Andrea della Robbia. (?)Egyptian Antiquities, and some ancient and beautifulsarcophagi.EAST. -Monument of Count Mastiani ( his widowas Grief) .Monument of Catalani, the SingerStatue of Nicolò Pisano •Monument of Gregory XIII.Early Christian Sarcophagi.••Bartolini.Costoli.· Salvini.On the west wall will be seen a large Chain. It is a56 monument to a dead enmity." In the wars between thePisans and the Genoese, this chain wasstretched across the mouthof the Pisan harbour, to prevent the entrance of the hostilegalleys. The Genoese carried away part of this chain, and part was sent to Florence. In 1848 this part was returned tothe Pisans; and in 1860, when Pisa was united to the kingdom of Italy, the Genoese portion was returned, and with greatpublic rejoicings, the chain was hung up in the Campo Santo,an emblem of reconciliation and perpetual amity betweenancient foes."66The Academy of Arts (Accademia delle Belle Arti) issituated in the Via S. Frediano. It was founded by Napoleon, and contains a fair collection of pictures of the Pisan school.16 PISA.S. UrsulaROOм I. (1300).Madonna and History of the Virgin• Bruno Fiorentino.Christ on the Cross •Three Saints . ·Cimabue.Giunta Pisano.Duccio da Siena.ROOM II. ( 1400).Crucifixion of Christ Cecco di Pietro.S. Domenico8 Smaller Pictures of SaintsThe Four EvangelistsROOM III. ( 1400).Cartoons of Frescoes in the Campo SantoResurrection of LazarusMadonna and Four SaintsSmall Madonna •2 Larger PicturesNativity of the VirginHoly FatherROOM IV.·Traini Pisano.L'Orcagna.Benozzo Gozzoli.Zenobio Macchiavelli.·•·Fra Angelico.Andrea del Sarto.Benozzo Gozzoli.Sodoma.Frà Filippo Lippi.Beccafumi.Botticelli.Lucas of Leyden.Ghirlandaio.Fra Angelico.Enthroned Virgin and Saints ( 1600)Virgin and Saints ( 1500) .ROOM V. (SMALL).S. Sebastian ( 1500) .S. CatherineROOM VI.Redemptor (much damaged)ROOM VII.16 Choir Books with Miniatures13 Original Sketches of Pictures now in theCathedral ( 1700) by Conca, Cavallucci, etc., etc.ROOM VIII.Our Saviour with Pilgrims Gherardo delle Notti.On same premises a large collection of Gobelins, etc. , etc.The University (La Sapienza) has been celebrated forits learning. Here the great Galileo taught for a time ( 1610) .A monument to his memory now adorns the court.Con-CHURCHES-PALACES, ETC. 17nected with the university is the Botanical Garden, wellworth a visit on account of its antiquity, it being one of the oldest in Italy. A Library with the famous Statuto di Pisa.Museum of Natural History, etc., etc.Among the Churches which should claim attention are,S. Caterina, which is beautifully situated in a large treeshaded piazza. The interior is grand and striking.S. Paolo a Ripa d'Arno is perhaps the finest church in Pisa, and second only in architectural beauty to the Cathedralitself. The colonnade façade is very fine. Unfortunately, thebeautiful frescoes of the interior have through neglect been allowed to fall into decay.S. Maria della Spina was erected for the especialpurpose of services for the benefit of those about to voyage.The name of the church is derived from the fact that a portionof our Saviour's crown of thorns is supposed to rest here.St. Stefano de Cavalieri contains a great number offlags and trophies taken from the Turks during the war in theHoly Land.Among the Palaces are the Palazzo de Cavalieri,close to S. Stefano, opposite which once stood the " Tower ofHunger," in which Count Ugolino and his children died ofstarvation (see Dante's " Inferno," canto xxxiii . ) .The Palazzo Lanfranchi, where Byron lived, andwhich is supposed to have been erected under the direction of Michael Angelo.Palazzo Lanfreducci, which has now changed itsname to Uppezinghi, was designed by Cosimo Pagliani.The Palazzo Agostini , built of red brick, though in theGothic style of architecture.Palazzo Gambacorti is now used for the Customhouse (dogana), and the Loggia de' Banchi, by Buontalenti,for the Corn Exchange.Close to the little chapel of San Andrea is the House in which Galileo was born. It consists of a range of unimportant chambers, adjoining or forming part of the palace ofthe Scotta family. The room in which Galileo was born is alarge square one with rudely- built walls, and a single window.The furniture is modern. Beneath the room is, and probablyalways was, a stable. Over the door of the house is a whitemarble slab, with the inscription, " Here was born Galileo Galilei, Feb. 18, 1564."In the Environs of Pisa is the Cascine, approached by 218 LEGHORN.a long avenue through the fields. " Passing the king's hunting- lodge and the stables of the camels, a noble broad road runsright through the forest down to Il Gombo. A gloriousforest it is oak and chestnut, and a variety of trees; but mainly magnificent pines of a kind resembling the Scotch fir inwildness of growth and roughness of bark, yet having fuller foliage. A whole avenue of these, very old and grand, runs for two miles at right-angles to the main road from one cascina(farm -house) to another; and again further on, in the depth ofthe wood, a vast laund has been cut, running from the Fiumicello to the Arno, farther than the eye can see."It is a nobler forest than Fontainebleau, with a profusely rich undergrowth, and beyond and above the dark green woodsthe snowy tops of the Carrara Mountains, with their brokenoutlines of marble, glitter in the spring sun, while the greatavenue opens out and terminates right upon the sea- shore."-F. P. Cobbe.ofIl Gombo is upon the bay of Spezia, in which the poetShelley was drowned. Viareggio, where the ceremonyhis cremation took place in the presence of Byron and LeighHunt ( 1822), can be seen from here.Many travellers make Pisa their head- quarters, and two orthree days may be spent in pleasant excursions. The oldCarthusian Abbey ( La Certosa) , 14th century, is interesting, as well as the ruins of a castle in the same neighbourhood(Valle dei Calci, six miles from Pisa) . The Biblical studentwill be interested in visiting S. Pietro in Grado, threemiles towards Leghorn, a fine old basilica, marking the spotwhere the foot of St. Peter, it is said, first touched Italian soil.Leghorn.(Italian Livorno; French Livourne. )(Hotels. See Appendix.)(Population 100,000. ) Leghorn is rather a commercialthan a manufacturing town, notwithstanding that it has tanards, rope- walks, soap and candle factories, and establishmentsor the manufacture of coral ornaments, woollen caps, etc. etc.LEGHORN. 19Year by year it steadily prospers, and its population is rapidlyon the increase. Up to the time of the Medicis it was an unimportant place, but under their dynasty it was entirelyreformed. It was their policy which led the oppressed anddistressed from all parts to find a shelter here from persecution and civil war. And so it came to pass that, from Spain andPortugal, from England and France, in fact, from all quarters,came Adullamites, who settled and established a vast tradingsystem, which has, however, never been so fully developed asat the present day.Leghorn being a free port, is the great mart for all foreigngoods required in this part of the country. It is a busy,bustling place, especially in the neighbourhood of the newHarbour. The town is essentially modern, and is in strikingcontrast to other places in Italy: having broad streets, handsome squares, a few really fine public buildings, and a 19thcentury look everywhere.In the summer season great numbers of visitors arrive herefrom Florence, Bologna, Rome, etc.; the air being generallycool and pleasant even during the heat of summer. In fact,the climate of Leghorn is good all the year round- not too cold in winter; not too hot in summer.From the harbour good sea views are obtained, with theislands of Elba, Gorgona, and Capraja in the distance; andfrom the lighthouse a fine view of the town.The works of art in Leghorn are few. The most striking isa marble group ofthe Grand Duke Ferdinand I. , and Turkishslaves, erected on the quay. In the Piazza Carlo Alberto thereare statues of the Grand Duke Ferdinand III . and Leopold II. ,more remarkable for their size than their artistic excellence.In the old Protestant Cemetery is the grave ofSmollett, the historian and novelist, who lingered through thesummer of 1771 in the neighbourhood of Leghorn, and died on the 21st October in that year. Here, too, is the grave ofFrancis Horner, the political economist, who died at Pisa,February 8, 1817. Near this cemetery is the permanentEnglish Church.There is not much to detain the visitor at Leghorn, but apleasant day may be spent there, occupied in boating in the harbour (boat about Ifr. 50c. per hour); strolling through theCorso Vittorio Emanuele to the Piazza d'Armi, where thePalace, Cathedral, and Town Hall are situated; and looking into the shop windows, which abound in curiosities and small20 LEGHORN TO ROME.works of art, especially in coral and alabaster; the evening maybe pleasantly spent in the Giardino dei Bagni (fee, 5oc. ), where,during the bathing season, a band plays daily.Steamers from Leghorn to Civita Vecchia, Naples,Sicily, Genoa, Island of Elba, Nice, Marseilles. (See local time-tables.)FROM LEGHORN TO CIVITA VECCHIA BY SEA.A pleasant passage of about twelve hours; the steamerskeep tolerably close to the coast, passing between the island ofElba and the Punta di Piombino. There are generally two or three steamers a week.From Civita Vecchia to Rome ( p. 21 ).FROM LEGHORN TO ROME BY RAIL.The railway route passes through the Tuscan and Roman Maremme, following for a considerable distance the ancient ViaAurelia, constructed B.C. 109 by Æmilius Scaurus, and com- manding beautiful views of the coast. Stations, Colle Salvetti,Fanglia, Orciano, Acquabona. Cecina, where a short branchline diverges to Volterra. Between this station and Castagnetothere is a good view of the coast ofthe old Etruscan Populonia,and beyond, the island of Elba.Stations, Castagneto, S. Vincenzo, and La Cornia.A pleasant excursion by diligence can be made from thisstation to Piombino, at the southern extremity of a fine promontory, offering a magnificent view over the sea to Elba,and on a clear day to the Island of Corsica.A further excursion may be made to Populonia, a quaintand ancient town, crowning a high and precipitous eminencebeside the sea. There is a picturesque medieval castle here,and the views over land and sea are exquisite.Resuming the journey from La Cornia towards Rome, the Maremme * is entered. It is a vast poisonous jungle andswamp, so unhealthy that from May to the end of October itis deserted by its inhabitants, who make their way into thehilly districts in the interior. All who remain are almost sureto be stricken with fever; for although the district is lesspoisonous than it was centuries ago, it is impossible to check the malaria.

• Marshy country contiguous to the sea.

LEGHORN TO ROME. 21Follonica, where are extensive works for smelting theiron brought from the island of Elba. Massa, inland, is oneof the largest towns of the district; population, 14,000; but boththese places are deserted during the hot weather.Stations, Potassa, Monte Pescali. Junction for Siena (p. 59).Grosseto, the capital of the Maremme (population 6300) .Branch line to Asciano, near Siena. Near Grosseto are theruins of Rusellæ, one of the twelve Etruscan capitals.Station, Talamone. Fine view. It was here that Mariuslanded on his return from Africa, and where the Roman legionsdefeated the Gauls, B.C. 225. Etruscan antiquities abound in this district.Station, Albegna, with salt-works.Station, Orbetello. -Two short excursions can be made fromthis place; the first by omnibus to Orbetello, 1 mile fromthe station, one of the most extraordinary places on the coast,and well worth a visit. The promontory, Monte Argentario,commands a magnificent view; the mountain has two peaks, onone of which is a monastery of the Passionists .A further excursion can be made from Orbetello to Cosa ,distant 4 miles. The ruins of this ancient Etruscan town willbe much appreciated by the archeologist.The Tuscan Maremme ends in the neighbourhood of stationMontalto, and the Roman Maremme commences.Corneto is one of the most interesting towns along the entire route. It can be visited from station Corneto, and a hastyglance at its curiosities obtained in about five hours, or an excursion may be made from Rome and back in one long day.The town is loftily situated, and the views are various and good.Corneto is the burial- place of the ancient Tarquinii, and the subterranean grottces or chambers, in which are many curious paint- .ings and decorations, are highly interesting.Toscanella (the ancient Tuscania) can be reached fromCorneto by diligence, 16 miles, three times a-week.The next station to Corneto isCivita Vecchia, once the Portus Trajani, destroyed by the Saracens in 828. Cività Vecchia is a dull, uninterestingplace, there being little to see except a lighthouse on a fortifiedisland, and a prison where the convicts are at work.The distance from Cività Vecchia to Rome is about 50 miles.The early part of the distance is uninteresting, but it improvesas Rome is neared . The best views are to the right, on starting,and to the left when approaching Rome.22 BOLOGNA TO ROME.Stations, S. Marinella, S. Severa (fine castle) , Furbara, Palo,on the site of Alsium, where Pompey and Antoninus Pius hadtheir villas; Palidoro, Maccarese, Ponte Galera, Magliana.Just before reaching Magliana, glimpses will be obtained ofthe Roman Campagna; as soon as Magliana is passed, the viewenlarges. The Alban Mountains, the villas of Frascati, theSabine Hills are clearly seen. Then come glimpses of theEternal City. The Tiber is crossed by a stately iron bridge, theline of the city walls followed for some distance, a maze ofancient remains traversed, after which the train rushes throughan opening in the walls, and the tourist is at ROME.Rome (p. 71).BOLOGNA TO ROME BY ANCONA.Bologna.(Hotels. See Appendix. )(For description of Town, see Cook's " Northern Italy. ")TRAVELLERS who intend to go direct to Ancona, should endeavour to secure a seat on the left of the carriage.THE railway runs in a line with the old Roman road, Via Æmilia,for the first part of the journey. The stations passed areMirandola, Quaderna, Castel S. Pietro -all in a district remarkable for its high state of cultivation.Imola (Forum Cornelii of the Romans) , population 9000,is on the Santerno . It was an important place as a station onthe Via Emilia, and still more so in the middle ages, onaccount of its situation between Bologna and Romagna. Itbecame subject to the States of the Church in 1509, underPope Julius II. There is nothing to detain the traveller here.Imola was the birthplace of St. Peter Chrysologus, Archbishopof Ravenna; of Vassalva the naturalist, and of Innocenzo daRAVENNA. 23Imola, the painter, none of whose works, however, are to be found here.Castel-Bolognese, so named from its fortress built bythe Bolognese in 1430, is only remarkable for its stronghold; fora battle fought in 1434, when the Florentines obtained a greatvictory over the Milanese; and for its being the junction for Ravenna .Castel-Bolognese to Ancona (p. 27) .No traveller should omit a visit to Ravenna; the distance isabout 26 miles by rail, and the town will well repay the timespent in visiting it.CASTEL- BOLOGNESE TO RAVENNA.Stations, Solarolo, Lugo (great fair, Sept. 1-19) , Bagnacavallo, Russi, Godo.RAVENNA.(Population, about 60, oco, including the provinces. ) Thiscity, one of the oldest in Italy, is full of interest; its treasures of ancient church decoration being marvellous. The see ofRavenna was founded by S. Apollinaris, a disciple of St. Peter(A.D. 44) , and has sustained a respectable history from that time.It was once the mistress of Rome; it is now little more than aprovincial town. Many writers have extolled its strange beauty;it will be remembered that Lord Byron dwelt here for two years,and declared that no other town in Italy could compare with it.During his residence he produced several of his most important works.The town is only three miles in circumference, and theobjects of interest are therefore at no great distance apart. It isquite possible to visit them in a day, although two days will by no means exhaust the interest of the traveller.Ravenna, though now nearly five miles from the sea, wasonce a port of some importance. The Portus Classis was builtby Augustus, and became one of the two great stations for the Roman fleet; Misenum being the other. Ravenna was theresidence of several emperors of the West after the separation ofthe Eastern and Western Empires. Honorius came thither fromRome in 402. Theodoric the Goth, after the fall of the Empire,made Ravenna the capital of the kingdom, and for many years24 RAVENNA.it remained under the dynasty of the Astro- Goths. When theGoths were overthrown by Narses, that General was appointedby Justinian, Exarch of Italy, and the city was ruled by exarchsfor a period of nearly 200 years. In the middle ages it became,like most other Italian cities, a republic; and during the strife ofGuelphs and Ghibelines, it had its own parties, headed by the two families Tarversari and Polenta. In 1440 the town wastaken by the Venetians, and retained by them till 1509, when itwas ceded to the Pope. In the year 1512, during the Italian warwith France, a great battle was fought near Ravenna, in which itis said 20,000 persons were killed; the French under Gaston deFoix opposing the Spanish and Papal troops. The battle wasdecided in favour of the French, but Gaston de Foix perished .Since then little of importance has occurred to Ravenna beyond the usual vicissitudes of Italian cities .The Cathedral, rebuilt in the 18th century, retains scarcelyany traces of the original built by St. Ursus in the 4th century.The objects of interest in the church are,—NORTH TRANSEPT.Falling of the Manna .In the Lunette above, -Melchizedec meeting Abraham Lunette above Sacristy , -Elijah fed by the AngelGuido Reni.Ibid.Ibid.The High Altar contains a sarcophagus with the remains ofnine bishops, and silver cross of S. Anialdo.In the Sacristy is the throne of St. Maximian, composedentirely of ivory, and richly adorned with bas-reliefs.Tombs of Maximilianus Barbaziano Rainaldi, and several valuable maibles.The Cathedral once had a magnificent door of vine-wood,but only a fewfragments now remain, and they are kept behind the Grand Door.The Baptistery ( San Giovanni in Fonte) is an octagonalbuilding with two ranges of arcades in the interior, one rising above the other. It is said to have been founded by St.Ursus. The cupola is decorated with fine fifth centurymosaics, representing the Baptism of Christ, surrounded bythe twelve Apostles. The Baptismal Vase is of white marbleand porphyry.RAVENNA. 25The Church of S. Vitale is a magnificent basilica, inimitation of Sta. Sophia at Constantinople, built in the reign ofJustinian, onthe spot where St. Vitalis suffered martyrdom; theinterior, which has much suffered from injudicious restoration,abounds in elaborate mosaics and reliefs. The paintings in thedome are modern, and out of taste; the dome itself is made ofearthern pots, a curious work, and this is the best of its kind.In the Choir, which is gorgeous as a piece of the Alhambra, andof great historical interest, the Mosaics represent the courtof Justinian and Theodora. In the vault of the choir, theSaviour enthroned on the Globe; to the right, St. Vitalis theMartyr; the left, St. Ecclesius, with a model of the church.Other mosaics found here, include the Twelve Apostles, theSacrifices of the Law, the Sacrifice of Abel, the offering ofMelchisedec, Moses in Midian, Moses on the Mount, etc.Special attention should be paid to these mosaics, as they areamong the greatest curiosities of Ravenna. Near the choir arethe celebrated Greek bas- reliefs known as the Throne of Neptune. In the vestibule of the sacristy is a Roman bas-relief,representing a sacrifice. There are but few paintings of anyvalue in the church; but the Roman and early Christiansculptures at the back of the church (North) , near the monument ofthe Exarch Isaac, are valuable.Near here (consult Sacristan) is theChurch of S. Nazario e Celso, known also as theMausoleum of Galla Placidia. It was built by the EmpressGalla Placidia, daughter of Theodosius the Great, and motherof Valentinian III. , about the year 440. It is a mass of gorgeousmosaics, reliefs, and other decorations. The Altar is of alabaster. The chief objects of interest, however, are the threesolemn sarcophagi, "the only Tombs of the Cæsars, Orientalor Occidental, which now remain in their original places."I.-The Sarcophagus of Galla Placidia behind the highaltar. It was possible till the year 1577 to view, through asmall aperture in one of the sides, the corpse of the empress,seated on a throne; but it was in that year totally destroyed byfire, caused by children playing with a lighted candle.II.-The Sarcophagus of the Emperor Honorius II . , brother of Galla Placidia.III.-Sarcophagus of Constantius III., her second husband,father of Valentinian III .S. Maria in Cosmedin, an octagonal building, oncethe baptistery of the adjoining Arian church of S. Spirito. The26 RAVENNA.dome represents the Baptism of Christ in the Jordan. The faded frescoes on the walls are 18th century.S. Apollinare Nuovo was an Arian cathedral (500) ,built by Theodoric, but subsequently consecrated for RomanCatholic worship by Archbishop S. Agnellus. The marblecolumns, 24 in number, which divide the nave from the aisles,are from Constantinople.The mosaics on the walls of the nave are exquisite; theyrepresent,-LEFT. The town of Classis.Virgins and Magi worshipping the Infant Saviour.RIGHT. -Ravenna, with church of S. Vitale and palace of Theodoric.A procession of 25 Saints receiving the Blessing of the Saviour.Beside these there are a great number of other mosaics; anEarly Christian Pulpit; and the remains of S. Apollinaris, saidto be preserved in this church.There are other churches in Ravenna well worth visiting;especially the Basilica of S. Giovanni Evangelista, near theRailway Station; Sta. Agata, near Porta Sisi, Sta. Maria inPorto, in the Corso, etc., etc.The greatest object of interest in Ravenna to many is theTomb of Dante, close by the church of S. Francesco, inwhich place his remains were originally interred. Opinionsdiffer as to the taste in which the monument is erected, but thedevotion which has been paid by genius at this shrine is beyondquestion. Chateaubriand, Alfieri, Byron, and many others,have found new inspiration while paying their devotion here.Dante died in Ravenna, 14th September, 1321 , aged 56.His mausoleum was erected in 1482 by Bernardo Bembo ofVenice, father of the celebrated Cardinal Bembo, from designsby Pietro Lombardo; it has twice been restored since that time.The remains ofthe poet were placed in the sarcophagus in 1865,when they were discovered in a chapel annexed to the churchof S. Francesco, having been hidden there, it is presumed, inorder that they might not be taken by the Florentines. Thecelebration of the sexcentenary anniversary of Dante's birthday, when the bones of the poet were placed in the urn in themausoleum, was one of the grandest days in the history ofRavenna. The Latin epitaph upon the tomb is supposed tohave been written by Dante himself.In the public library is shown the visitors' book formerlyRAVENNA. 27kept at the tomb. It contains many interesting entries, especially one by Pope Pius IX. , on the occasion of his visit in1857.Byron's House (No. 295, Strada di Porta Sisi) is nearthe tomb of Dante. He resided here for eight months ( 1819) ,and then removed to the Palazzo Guiccioli, his whole residencein Ravenna being over two years.The Mausoleum of Theodoric, or the Rotonda, isnearly half a mile beyond the Porta Serrato (across the railway) .It was built by the Emperor himself, and here he was buried,but when the Arians were expelled, the Catholics scattered hisremains, and robbed the tomb of its chief ornaments.One of the greatest curiosities in the neighbourhood ofRavenna is the church of S. Apollinare in Classe, aboutthree miles from the Porta Nuova. It is one of the wondersof the world, being a magnificent basilica erected 534, restored1779, and is considered by architects to be unequalled as aspecimen of Christian art. The traveller who journeys so farout should visit the Pine forest, celebrated in the songs ofDante, Boccaccio, Byron, Rogers, etc.Return to Ravenna by way of the Gothic church ofS. Maria, in Porto Fuori , a basilica with an open roof,built by Bishop Onesti, in fulfilment of a vow made during astorm at sea in 1096. There are some old frescoes in thischurch which have often been erroneously attributed to Giotto;they are probably by his pupils. The massive clock tower issupposed to be part of an ancient lighthouse, the harbour havingbeen formerly situated where the church now stands.Ravenna to Rimini . -A good carriage road, but nodiligence.Ravenna to Trieste. -Steamers once a week. Seelocal time-tables.Ravenna to Forli. -Steam-trams run four times a daybetween these stations, offering facilities for travellers going to Ancona, etc., to leave Ravenna a short time in advance, so as to enable them to visit the town of Forli.CASTEL- BOLOGNESE TO ANCONA.After the river Senio is crossed, the first station is Faenza,population 20,000, on the site of Faventia, where Sylla'svictory over Carbo was gained. Sir John Hawkswood, theservant of Pope Gregory XI. , captured and plundered Faventia28 FAENZA-CESENA.in 1376. There are some interesting works of art in the churches.In Cathedral, Holy Family .In S. Maglorio, MadonnaIn the Commenda, Virgin and ChildSt. John the Baptist (bust) •Innocenzo da Imola.· Giorgione.Girolamo da Treviso.Donatello.In Capuchin Monastery, Madonna and St. John Guido Reni.Faenza claims to have introduced the manufacture of earthenware into Italy. The pottery manufactured here is knownas Faience, although the term is now used to designate all kinds of fine ware.Crossing the Lamone and the Montone, Forli is reached,population 16,200. It is a well-built town, with handsomepalaces and churches, and is well worth a visit. The Cathedral of Santa Croce is noted for a chapel, Madonna delFuoco, the cupola of which is painted in fresco; subject, theAssumption of the Virgin. This fine work took Carlo Cignani twenty years to complete. In the Church of S. Girolamothere are some fine frescoes by Melozzo and a Madonna byGuido Reni. The Picture Gallery contains a small but interesting collection of paintings. The Citadel, constructed in1860, is picturesque; it is now used as a prison.Station, Forlimpopoli, the ancient Forum Popilii. Then the Savio is crossed.Cesena. Population 8,000, very prettily situated. It isone of the oldest Episcopal sees in Italy. S. Philemon wasthe first bishop, A.D. 92. Popes Pius VI. and VII. were born here; a statue to the former is in the Palazzo Pubblico, in the Piazza.The Library, founded by Domenico Malatesta Novello(1452 ) , contains over 4,000 MSS. Some celebrated sulphur mines are in the vicinity of Cesena.The railway next crosses the Pisciatello; this river is supposed to be the Rubicon of the ancients. Stations, Savignano,S. Arcangelo (birthplace of Pope Clement XIV. ) , then theBridge of Augustus, erected more than eighteen centuriesago. It is a magnificent structure, wonderfully preserved, andbuilt entirely of Istrian marble. Formerly it connected the Via Emilia with the Via Flaminia.Rimini (population 11,000) is a delightful old town,pleasantly situated between two rivers, and the tourist who hastime will do well to halt here, as there is capital sea-bathing,and the town has many fine buildings and other objects of inte-RIMINI. 29rest. Rimini is on the site of Ariminum, an Umbrian city. In269 B.C. it became a Roman colony, and it contains manymemorials of Augustus, by whom it was greatly enriched. In260 it became an Episcopal see. The town has belonged byturns to the Lombards, the Germans, the Venetians, and the Pope.The Cathedral S. Francesco, built in the fourteenthcentury, was re-modelled from designs of Leo Battista Alberti,in 1450. On the south side of the nave are seven vaults orarches, in which are sarcophagi of eminent scholars andwarriors who flourished in the time of Sigismund Malatesta.The church abounds in relics of the Malatesta family, amongthem the tomb of Sigismund.are:The principal works of art in the other churches of Rimini• P. Veronese.Guercino.In S. Giuliano, Martyrdom of S. JulianIn S. Girolamo, portrait of the SaintThe Piazza Giulio Cesare, the ancient forum andmodern market place. On a pedestal is an inscription statingthat it was here Cæsar harangued his army after the passage ofthe Rubicon; the truth of this statement is however doubtful.At a short distance is a chapel, covering a site consecrated bythe preaching of S. Anthony. Another chapel near the canalmarks the spot where S. Anthony, according to legend, causedthe fishes in the water to lift up their heads and listen to hisdiscourse.The Arch of Augustus (Porto Romano) was erectedto the emperor in commemoration of the people's gratitude forthe restoration of the Via Flaminia. The medallions representJupiter, Minerva, Neptune, and Venus.In the Palazzo del Comunethere are several fine worksof art.Altar-piecePietàDomenico Ghirlandiao.Gio. Bellini.The old palace of the Malatesta is now a prison. Everywhere in Rimini there are memorials of the Malatestas; andthe tourist will doubtless recall the story of Francesca daRimini, so pathetically told by Dante in the " Divina Comedia, "and so ably translated by Byron.The pleasantest excursion in this neighbourhood is to SanMarino, about twelve miles distant, the seat of the smallestancient republic in the world. There is only one road to it fromRimini; the author of Butt's Italy thus describes it:-"Not far from the shores of the Adriatic, about ten miles30 SAN MARINO.from Rimini, the traveller through that country may haveobserved rising abruptly from the plain a steep and rugged mass of mountain and rock. The Titans' Mount was its namein days when Pagan tradition pointed out its masses of rock asthe fragments of a mountain which the giants had hurled againstheaven in their conflict with the gods. On its summit rose inlater times a temple to Jupiter, the memorial, probably, of histriumph over his impious foes. Its glens were avoided ashaunted by demons. In the earlier ages of Christianity, Jupiterwas displaced by an altar of the Christian faith; and a traditiontells us that the demons fled from the spot, which became theabode of Christians, whose successors and descendants preservetheir freedom to this day."The unquestioned facts of history are indeed more marvellous than any which legend could supply. With a territoryoccupying a space, including all its mountain rocks, of notmore than seventeen square miles, with a population of about7000, San Marino is an independent and a sovereign state. Fornearly 1500 years, during all the vicissitudes that have passedover Italy, this little municipality has retained its independence.In the centre of the Papal States, it has maintained its freedomagainst the power before which states and potentates werecompelled to bow. The invasions of the barbarians rolled byand left its mountain dwellings untouched. Many a year andvanished age ' have swept over it; it yet remains a fortressformed by freedom's hands; ' the word ' Liberty ' is still writtenover its gate and on the portals of its cathedral; and the inhabitants of the little district are still governed by their own magistrates, and subject only to their own laws." Marinus, a Dalmatian artisan, laid, in the fourth century,the foundation of the town. Driven from his native countryby persecution, on account of embracing the Christian faith,he followed his occupation of a stonemason at Rimini, andattracted by one of the fertile dells which surround the Titans'Rock, he built a house in this retreat. He had won the friendship of the Bishop of Rimini by his piety, and religion was sup- posed to hallow his retreat. Other habitations soon rose besidethat of Marinus, and a small community was soon formed.The village which arose took the name of its founder, to whomthe respect of its inhabitants was not long in according the nithet of saint; and after the lapse of 1500 years the freeublic of San Marino perpetuates to modern times the name humble mechanic.SAN MARINO. 31" San Marino has had its troubles. It braved excommunication, and even the sentence of an interdict, rather thansurrender itself to Innocent IV. At a later period, the vicar ofBoniface VIII. attempted to enforce a papal tribute . The Popedesired the matter to be referred to a sage, who decided thatSan Marino was and always had been independent. Bonifacegranted to it a deed in which its independence was recognized.Cardinal Alberoni, when legate of Romagna, determined toreduce the republic to ' subjection, and treacherously led by night a troop of soldiers up the passes of the rock. In themorning he commanded the astonished citizens to attend himin the church, to take the oath of allegiance to the Pope. Theyobeyed the summons; but one ofter another they swore fealty,not to the Pontiff, but to ' San Marino.' Cries of Liberty andSan Marino,' echoed from the old roof of the sacred building.Alberoni soon stopped the ceremony which assumed a form sodifferent from that which he had expected . He left the hill andits inhabitants in safety, and was disgraced for the act." Napoleon paid to this little fortress a marked tribute of respect. In one of his excursions from Pesaro he saw its cliffglittering in the sunshine. When told that it was that of San Marino, he sent in the name of the French Republic a deputation to the authorities of the little state. ' Liberty,' he said,in the address, which in the glorious days of Athens and Thebes transformed the Greeks into a nation of heroes; whichin the ages of the Republic made the Romans perfect prodigies;which during the brief interval of its reign in a few towns ofItaly revived the arts and sciences, was almost entirely banishedfrom Europe. Liberty existed only at San Marino, where,citizens, by the wisdom of your government, and particularlyby your virtues, you have preserved that inestimable treasurethrough numerous revolutions, and defended the sacred deposit through a long series of years.'"He offered them any additions to their territory whichthey cared to take, and at the same time sent them a presentof some cannon, both of which they had the good sense to refuse."The republic of S. Marino still remains. It has its nobilityand its burgesses, its general council of anziani, ' 300 in number, and its gonfalonieri, with an executive council of twelve,while on great occasions its assembly or parliament is convenedin which one member of every family has a seat. Justiceadministered by a podesta according to the institutions of32 PESARO.middle ages, selected always from other towns. Its archivesstill contain the letters in which Venice addressed the republicas ' her dear sister.' The least superstitious may forgive thecitizens of this republic the belief that the spirit of its founderstill watches like a guardian angel over its liberties ."Proceeding towards Ancona the line crosses the streams Marano and Conca. Stations, Riccione and Cattolica, thenthrough a tunnel over the Tavollo, and past the Villa Vittoria,where Queen Caroline of England resided, and Pesaro is reached.It wasPesaro (population 20,000) , the ancient Pisaurum , wasformerly the capital of the province of Pesaro and Urbino; itwas the birthplace of Pope Innocent XI. and Rossini.for some time the residence of Torquato and Bernardo Tasso,and a house is pointed out in which it is said Francesco Riminiresided.The principal things to be seen in Pesaro are the Prefettura,containing the archives; this was once the palace of the Dukes of Urbino.Near here is the Palazzo Municipale, and opposite thepalace are statues of Rossini and Perticare.The public Library contains nearly 15,000 volumes.In the church of S. Spirito there is a tine painting ofThe Crucifixion · Luca Signorelli.In the Church of S. FrancescoMadonna Enthroned ( 15th century)Church of S. CassianoS. Barbara • ·Giov. Bellini.Simone da Pesaro.Near the Lunatic Asylum ( Ospizil degli Incurabili) is atablet marking the site of the house where Torquato and Bernardo Tasso lived.Pesaro is situated at the mouth of the Foglio (which iscrossed by an ancient Roman bridge) , and has a small harbour; its principal manufactures are silk, pottery, glass, and wax.No one who visits Pesaro should fail to make an excursionto Urbino, which can be easily reached by diligence (daily) in about five or six hours.Urbino is a decayed, interesting, and, under certain aspects,picturesque old town, standing on a high cliff in the midst ofbleak, barren mountains; it is celebrated as being the town inwhich the Montefeltros ruled with a splendour unequalled evenURBINO.33by the Malatestas of Rimini, but the chief interest in Urbinois that it was the birthplace of Raphael Santi ."There is scarcely a house, a street, or a church in Urbinothat does not now wear a deserted and desolate aspect; eventhe grand palace of the Dukes, formerly not to be outshone inbrilliancy by any Court in Europe, is tenantless or given up to base uses. Yet there still remain staircases, galleries, doorways, windows, and fire-places, rich in Raffaellesque ornamentscarved with a delicacy belonging less to stone than to ivory. Itis by such details-sometimes a mutilated bas- relief, sometimesa broken arch or a defaced picture, scattered here and thereabout the city, that the traveller must be content to spell outthe story of a byegone splendour. Even nature appears to havefallen into days of dejection; the vast palace, which seems readyto swallow upthe small city, frowns over a landscape of barrengrandeur; the mountains throw their jagged crags into the skysavagely, and when the sun sinks beneath the high peakswhich tower above Cagli and Gubbio, the whole scene becomes inexpressibly solemn. Such was the cradle of the shadowedand sacred school of Umbria. The spirit of the spot musthave been almost too sad for Raffaelle; there is nothing joyousnow remaining, and we can well understand why the aspiringpainter left his birthplace early and returned to it seldom.' Raffaelle's house, which has recently been secured forthe municipality, was originally purchased by the painter's grand- father for 240 ducats, a sum more than realized in a businessof general huckstering. Giovanni, the father, first merely helpedin the concern, but afterwards, coming into possession of thefamily tenement, he further undertook the making of pictureframes and gilt chandeliers, till at length his ambition carriedhim to painting and poetry. The original uses of trade stillattach to the house and to the street; recently small wares weresold beneath the room in which Raffaelle was born, and inSeptember last we purchased grapes and pomegranates at a stalla few doors below. The house witnessed several stirring incidents in the family of Santi. On April 6, 1483, Raffaelle wasborn; on August 2, 1485 , his elder brother died; on October 7,1491 , Raffaelle lost his mother; in 1492 his father married asecond time; and on August 1 , 1494, the father died, leavinghis son Raffaelle an orphan only eleven years old. The futurepainter, who had already, under his father's careful tuition, beenwell grounded in the rudiments of art, fell under the guardianship of two uncles, who forthwith placed their ward in the334 URBINO.school of Pietro Perugino, then engaged in the Cambio atPerugia on the famous frescoes and woodwork which almost asa matter of course are made, even in the absence of all evidence,to play a part in the opening genius of the pupil."The interior of the house of Raffaelle, containing sometwenty rooms, few of which are large enough for the studio ofan artist painting figures life- size, probably preserves prettymuch its original conformation. The staircase, the main walls,and the general distribution of the apartments can scarcely havesuffered much change. The whole tenement, said to be a doublehouse joined into one, does not seem to us more than sufficientfor its multifarious uses-the keeping and the selling of miscellaneous shop stores on the ground floor after the Italian usage,the comfortable habitation of the family, and the reception ofguests on the piano nobile above-with certainly not more thanample provision for the painting of pictures, the writing ofpoems, and the studies of the young Raffaelle in the story atthe top and the premises behind. The only part of the housewhich can be said to be now in a habitable state, thanks to thekind efforts of the association of gentlemen who have come toits rescue by purchasing it, is the first floor, consisting of threeapartments en suite. The middle of these, which in our modernhouses would be called the drawing-room, served probably forthe reception of guests as well as for the ordinary purposes of adwelling. It is a spacious, cheerful room, twenty- seven feetsquare, with a brick floor , as usual in those parts, a handsomepanelled ceiling, and an outlook of two windows on the street.But the chief interest naturally attaches to the smaller side roomin which Raffaelle was born. This, in common with the twoadjoining front rooms, is now, by virtue of the recent purchase,made clean and put in order; a coloured dado rises from thefloor, the walls above are decorated with engravings and photographs from Raffaelle's leading pictures and drawings. Altogether the arrangements are congenial with the associations ofthe spot. But more money, as we may take for granted, iswanted; a subscription book for aid to the good cause lies openin the room wherein Raffaelle was born." *It is probable that the large majority of tourists who visit Urbino will do so for the sake of seeing the house of Raphael.There are, however, several very interesting public edifices,

• From the Saturday Review, March 6th, 1875.

URBINO. 35monuments, and works of art which should by no means be omitted.The Ducal Palace, although fast falling into decay, is amagnificent specimen of the early Renaissance.In the Churches, noticeCathedral. -S. SebastianThe Eucharist .Baroccio.Scourging of Christ Piero della Francesca.S. Giuseppe. -MadonnaS. Francesco. -Several PicturesIbid.Timoteo della Vite.Giovanni Santi (Father of Raphael).S. Francesco di Paola. -ResurrectionThe EucharistTitian.Ibid.In the Church of S. Bernardino, situate nearly a milefrom the town, are the tombs of the Dukes Federigo andGuidobaldo Montefeltro.Whatever may be omitted in Urbino, by no means shouldthe traveller fail to ascend the height, once the Fortress ,for the sake of its singular view. Referring to this survey,the writer in the Saturday Review, already quoted, says:-" Urbino, it must be confessed, is now in lamentable decay;her stately structures are in ruin, her rich families in penury,and a once noble race is lost in the last stage of degeneracy .Yet here from the high ramparts we look upon the scene ofRaffaelle's early labour; to the west, over the hills, lies CittàIdi Castello, where The Crucifixion,' now in Earl Dudley'scollection, was painted; and further away, hid behind themountains, is the town of Perugia, with the house of Perugino,and streets, gates, fountains, not to mention a multitude ofpictures, which became as familiar to Raffaelle in his days ofpupilage as the city of his birth. In fact, from these rampartsof Urbino we may be said to take at one wide sweep a bird'seye view of the school of Umbria. Yet Raffaelle forsook thishis dwelling among the Apennines; he returned once-perhapstwice-and that for a brief space only, and then quitted forever the bleak mountains for the sunny valley of the Arno and the seven hills on the Tiber."Returning to Pesaro, and continuing the route to Ancona,the next town of importance isFano (Fanum Fortuna) , or Temple of Fortune. It has a36 ANCONA.triumphal arch, dedicated to Augustus, and subsequently toConstantine. Its theatre is remarkably handsome, and wasonce the most celebrated in Italy. It is a pleasant, cheap, andinteresting bathing- place, and its works of art, of which thefollowing is a brief epitome, are good:-In S. Fortunato (cathedral) , sixteen frescoesMadonna and SaintsIn S. Croce 99Domenichino (restored) .Lodovico Caracci.Giov. Santi.In S. Francesco, Monuments of the Malatestas.In S. Maria Nuova, Madonna99•AnnunciationJn S. Paterniano, Betrothal of the VirginIn S. Pietro, FrescoesAnnunciaton دو. Pietro Perugino.Ibid.Guercino.Viviani.Guido.The two handsomest churches are S. Fortunato and S.Pietro.Beyond Fano, the Metaurs and Cesano are crossed; station ,Marotto.Sinigaglia (ancient, Sena Gallica, a fishing town) . Popu- lation 22,000. A good and well- ordered sea- bathing establishment. The late Pope Pius IX. (Giovanni Maria, CountMastai- Feretti) was born here 1792; also, in 1784, AngelicaCata'ani, the celebrated vocalist. Sinigaglia is celebrated forits fair, held annually in July.Stations, Case Bruciate and Falconara (junction for Rome) ,Ancona.ANCONA.(Hotel. See Appendix.)(Population 40,000. ) Ancona (from ancon, an elbow, theshape of the neck of land on which it is built) was founded bySyracusans, who fled from the persecutions of Dionysius.The Romans occupied the town B.C. 268. Trajan causedthe fine harbour to be built, and it became one of the bestnaval stations of the Romans on the Adriatic. In the middleages Ancona was a republic, but passed into the possession ofPope Clement VII. in 1532.In later years the town has seen many vicissitudes. In1797 it was taken by the French, and retaken by the Austrianstwo years later.16 18SAsinaraMelfiS.Marco ero ManfredoniaBor soceraoFoggiaCervare inoriano fotoo CandelaCerignoliBarletta TraniMolfetta Corato oBitontoADRIATICSEABariMolaPorto Torres Monopoli Altamura Fasano Gioia Ostunio Sassari no Matera Campag S.Vito o Tricarico SelePotenza FerrandinaTirgSala Foce delBasenPolicoroBasentoMetapontoMassaaTarantoBrindisi FrancavillaManduriaLecce ollinoo4038GULF Maglie OFGallipoli OtrantoRosetoCastrovillari TARANTO CLeucaSARVoristano PolicastraUrasGaving SoIglesias ViDecimo -mannuPolicastroCratiRossano Corigliano CariatiPaola Cosenza NS E ACotrone C.Nau EufemiaG. ofEufemia CatanzaroStromboli G.of Squillace Squillace PizzaCORAILWSOUTITOEnglis 10 20Railways shoC.FardessinanaP OveataniaGioja GeraceReggioMelito MessinaAugustatickets are a SyracuseSteamer rouMonasteraceBiancoC. SpartiventoI O NI A NSE AtoAlexandriaC.Passaro W. &A.K.Johnston, Ee 16 Entered at Stationers Hall 1838

ANCONA. 37In 1805 the French took it again, but in 1815 it was surrendered to the Pope, and was retained by him till 1860. Atthe end of that year it was occupied by the Italians.The situation of Ancona is very beautiful, it is built inthe form of an amphitheatre, on the slope of two hilly promontories. The Harbour is protected by two moles, one raisedby the Emperor Trajan, and the other, modern, built by ClementXII. On the ancient mole ( N.) is a Triumphal Arch, built of marble in A.D. 112. An inscription records that it waserected by the Roman Senate to commemorate the completionof the works initiated by Trajan. On the new quay, built byClement XII. , there is another triumphal arch ( designed byVanvetelli) , but it is poor in comparison with the arch ofTrajan.The streets of the town are, with one or two exceptions,narrow and somewhat dull, but the surroundings are exceptionally good, and Ancona is worth a visit if only to stand onthe citadel (or, better still, on the heights above it) , and take inthe charming view of town and harbour.Ancona is more a commercial town than a tourist's resort .Many of its buildings, however, are curious and interesting,and it is celebrated as being the place where the most beautifulwomen in Italy may be seen.The Cathedral (of S. Ciziaco, first bishop of Ancona) ison the site of a former Temple of Venus, some columns ofwhich are built into the present church. It is a curious building, in the form of a Greek cross. Notice specially the fineGothic porch. The Crypt is well worth a visit.The other churches of interest are S. Franceso, S.Agostino, with handsome Gothic porches, and S. Maria dellaPiazza, with a very remarkable façade ( Romanesque- Lombard) .The Exchange is a singular building, designed by Tibaldi.A pleasant Excursion can be made from Ancona toMonte Conero (nine miles) . Fine views and handsomeCamaldulensian Monastery. Other excursions may be madetoOsimo, p. 170, or to Loreto, the celebrated resort of pilgrims,p. 171.Steamers run from Ancona to Venice and Trieste, also toBrindisi, Athens, etc.Ancona to Foggia and Naples, p. 170.See Ancona to Foggia and Brindisi .38ANCONATOROME.FROM ANCONA TO ROME .The line follows the Brindisi mail route as far as Falconara .Here it diverges to the south- west, and crosses the river Esinoat Chiaravalle. Jesi (anc. Æsis) is a thriving manufacturingtown. Emperor Frederick II . born here ( 1194) , also G. Spontini, composer ( 1778) . Cathedral of S. Septimius, the firstBishop of Jesi, in 308, A.D. Along the contracting valley ofthe Esino, crossing the river twice, we pass to Castel Planio, andthen to Serra S. Quirico, where the mountains close in and forma wild ravine. Through Monte Rosso by a tunnel, and severaltimes across the river, the train passes to the valley of Fabriano,and arrives at Albaccina. Matelica is near this station .Church of S. Francesco, with pictures by Palmezzano andEusebio di S. Georgio. Palazzo Piersanti, with picture gallery.The next station is Fabriano, celebrated for its paper manufactories. Near sites of anc. Tuficum and Attidium. TownHall with ancient inscriptions. Campanile. Churches containpaintings by Gentile da Fabriano and others of that school.Ivory collection belonging to the Marchese Possenti.From Fabriano may be visited by road (nine miles) Sassoferrato, birthplace in 1605 of Giambattista Salvi, surnamedSassoferrato, celebrated historical painter, especially noted for hisMadonnas. Some interesting churches and pictures are found in this town. Ruins of ancient Sentinum rendered memorableby the self- sacrifice of the Consul Decius, in the decisive battlewhereby Rome became mistress of Italy, B.C. 296.After leaving Fabriano, the railway tunnels the central chainof the Apennines, and reaches Fossato, then passes along the valley of the Chiascio to Gualdo Tadino. Church of San Francesco, Altar-piece by Nicolò da Foligno, 1471. Passing Nocera, station (anc. Nuceria) , with mineral springs, we crossseveral bridges, pass through a tunnel, and reachFOLIGNO.Anc. Fulginium. (Pop. 21,000. ) In 1281 destroyed byPerugia, in 1439 annexed to Papal States. Damaged by earthquakes 1832, 1839, 1853, 1854. A school of painting (Nicolò Alunno and others) , 1460-1500, arose here. Cathedral ofS. Feliciano, with Romanesque façade, twelfth century. S. Anna. S. Nicolo. Coronation of the Virgin, etc., by NicolFLORENCE TO ROME. 39Alunno. S. Maria infra Portas, 8th century. Frescoesby N. Alunno. La Nunziatella. Baptism of Christ(fresco) , by Perugino. Chapel of Palazzo del Governo.Frescoes by Ottaviano Nelli. Abbadia di Sassovivo, fourmiles east of Foligno. Cloisters, 1229. Bevagna (anc.Mevania), on cl*tumnus, five miles west. Remains of amphitheatre and other antiquities. Montefalco, on heights, sevenmiles from Foligno; several churches with good pictures.Church of San Francesco, frescoes by Benozzo Gozzoli( 1452 ) , and in chapel frescoes by Tiberio d'Assisi and Lorenzoda Viterbo. Church of S. Fortunato, frescoes by Benozzo, 1449. Views from the heights very fine.From Foligno to Rome, p. 53.FLORENCE TO ROME.By Arezzo, Perugia, and Foligno.[The journey, 232 miles, may be made in ten hours express. A week may, however, be spent to advantage in visitingthe principal places of interest along the route. ]As the train leaves Florence, it skirts the city, affordingpleasant views, and thence runs to the Porta S. Croce the firsthalting place. The valley of the Arno, the heights of Fiesole,and many interesting spots in the suburbs of Florence, arepassed, and then the following stations:-Compiobbi, Pontassieve ( where visitors from Florence alight to visit Vallombrosa. See Cook's " Northern Italy." Thescenery about here is beautiful . Rignano, Incisa (with afine fortress) Figline, S. Giovanni ( birthplace of Masaccio andGiovanni da S. Giovanni, two celebrated painters) , Montevarchi.After this a series of tunnels, Bucine, Laterina, Ponticino, and Arezzo.AREZZO.(Pop. 11,050) , walls three miles in circuit, with four gates.Has manufactories of woollens and pins, and produces the cele- brated wine Alleatico.This city (anc. Arretium) was one of the wealthiest andmost populous in ancient Etruria. It opposed the power of Rome in frequent wars till B.C. 310, when it became allied withthat city. Subsequently it joined with other rebel states againstthe Roman power, and was destroyed by Sulla. It was, how-40 AREZZO.ever, again colonized, and became prosperous. The town was celebrated for the manufacture of red vases of superior quality.As the Roman power broke up, this city, like many others, was devastated by Goths, Lombards, etc. It was included in thegreat empire of Charlemagne; at one time bishops of Arezzowere feudal counts, ruling in the name of the emperor. In theeleventh century the city rebelled against the imperial yoke andbecame a republic. It suffered much during the long strugglesof the Guelphs and Ghibellines. In 1384 the famous condottiere, Ingelram de Coucy, plundered the city and sold it to theFlorentines for 40,000 florins. Except during one or two intervals of unsuccessful revolt, finally suppressed by Cosmo deMedici, Arezzo formed till recently a part of the Tuscan Duchy.It was stormed by the French in 1800.C. Cilnius Mæcenas, the patron of literature, immortalizedby Horace and Virgil, was born at Arretium. He was thefriend and confidential adviser of the Emperor Augustus. Petrarchwas a native of Arezzo. On passing through the city in afteryears, the poet was waited on by a deputation of notabilities toshow him the house of his birth. "It was a small house, "says Petrarch, "befitting an exile, as my father was." He wasinformed that the owners had been about to make some alterations in it, but the authorities interfered, and caused the wholeto be preserved as it was on the occasion of his birth, which hadgiven to Arezzo its chief claims to the remembrance of posterity.The house is situate near the entrance of the Via dell' Orto,indicated by a long inscription. Other celebrated natives ofArezzo were-Vasari (painter), Cesalpini (botanist) , SpinelloAretino (painter) , Pietro Arelino (satirist), Guido Aretino(musician), Leonardo Aretino (historian), Margaritone (painterand sculptor) , Count Vittoria Fossimbrone ( statesman) , PietroBenvenuti (painter).The Italian Gothic Cathedral, with façade unfinished,was begun in 1177; additions were made in 1290. The interiorcontains,-Stained Glass Window ( 16th century) ,Scenes in life of Bishop TarlatiTomb of Gregory X..On High Altar, Sculptures, etc. ( 1286)Tomb of Redi ( 1698), poet.Guillaume de Marseille.Giovanni da Pisa.Chapel of Madonna del Soccorso, and Altars.Margaritone.Left Aisle, at the east end, S. Magdalen, fresco by Piero della Francesca.AREZZO. 41Tomb of the warlike Bishop Tarlati di Pietrinola, representing his life and death, in 16 sections. Supposed fromdesigns of Giotto, executed by Agostino and Agnolo da Siena.Other churches in Arezzo are--S. Maria della Pieve (9th century) . On site ofTemple of Bacchus. Tower and peculiar façade, 1216. Ancientsculptures over door.S. Bernardo. Frescoes in quadrangle .L' Annunziata.S. Bartolommeo.S. Domenico.Uccello.A fresco over door Spinello Aretino.Afresco . Jacopo da Casentino .Frescoes·In Choir, frescoes: LegendSpinello.S. Francesco.of the Cross . Piero della Francesca.On Ceiling, Evangelists, (attrib. ) Bicci di Lorenzo.Chapel of Archangel Michael, frescoes (damaged) Spinello.The Palazzo Pubblico (1322) , much altered, withnumerous armorial bearings, is now a prison. The PalazzoComunale, in the Cathedral Square, is similarly adorned.The Loggia, erected by Vasari, containing a theatre andcustom-house, has a fine portico 400 feet long. A statue of theworthy scholar and statesman, Count Fossimbrone, stands nearthe church of San Francesco, and one of Ferdinand III. in thePiazza. The house of Vasari, containing works of thatpainter, is in the Via S. Vito.The Museum is in the cloister of the Fraternità dellaMisericordia. A collection of minerals and fossils, ancient andmodern bronzes, inscriptions, reliefs, antique utensils, mediavaland antique seals, majolicas, cinerary urns, antique vases, etc. ,arranged in five rooms.The Badia di S. Fiora contains, in the refectory,The Banquet of Ahasuerus .Vasari.On the first floor is the Pinacoteca, a small gallery ofpictures, mostly ancient, and casts.Madonna and Four SaintsSt. George .Altar-piece, in sectionsSignorelli.Vasari.Pietro Laureati.A beautiful view ofthe town and cathedral of Arezzo presentsitself as we continue the railway journey. Then comes a tunneland stations, Frasinetto and Castelfiorentino. The valley oftheChiana, once a lake, and until the middle of last century anunhealthy morass, was drained by Count Fossimbrone on theplans of Toricelli and Viviani. It is now richly cultivated, and42 CORTONA.the Chiana, which flowed into the Tiber, empties itself into theArno. The next station is Cortona, at the foot of the hill onwhich the town stands. Omnibus I lira.CORTONA.an Originally an Umbrian, and afterwards an Etruscan city, then aRoman colony, and after various vicissitudes, becameappanage of Florence in 1410. Luca Signorelli (1439-1521) ,Pietro Berettini ( 1596-1669), were amongst the artists born inCortona.Cathedral, attributed to Sun Gallo, altered in the lastcentury by Alessandro Galilei.In Choir, Descent from the CrossLast SupperIn Sacristy, MadonnaLeft of Choir.Amazons) .Luca Signorelli.Ibid.Ibid.Ancient Sarcophagus ( Dionysius andBaptistery or Church of the Jesuits (al Gesù)containsThe Conception .•Luca Signorelli.Ibid.The Nativity Annunciation and two Predelle • Fra Angelico da Fiesole.S. Agostino. A Picture . • Pietro da Cortona.S. Domenico. ( 13th century. ) Coronation of the Virgin .Madonna, with Saints and Angels .AssumptionLorenzo di Nicolò.. Fra Angelico.Bartolomeo della Gatta. •Compagnia S. Nicolo.Saints, frescoesMadonna andAltar-piece, body of Christ, etc. •Luca Signorelli.S. Margherita, Church and Monastery,Gothic .Ibid.Nicolò and Giovanni Pisano..Fine views from the garden. Tomb of S. Margherita ( 13thcentury) . Silver front and gold crown, given by Pietro daCortona.The Fortezza ( 2165 feet) should be visited, to enjoy thegrand prospect, only broken bythe mountains at the back ( Altodi San Egidio, 3432 feet).Museum of Etruscan antiquities (admission, I franc),with remarkable bronzes, urns, inscriptions, votive offerings, etc.A circular Etruscan candelabrum for 16 lights, with numerousCORTONA. 43mythological designs, is the gem of the collection. Notice alsoan encaustic painting, Polyhymnia. In the adjacent PonbuniLibrary a fine MS. of Dante is preserved. The private collec- tion of Signor Colonnese in the Palazzo Madama, near theMunicipio, is sometimes accessible on presentation of passportor visiting-card. It contains a Nativity, and a half- length St. Stephen, by Luca Signorelli, and various other pictures.The Town Walls, ancient Etruscan work in huge blocks,should be noticed. Most of the gates are traceable. There are other ancient remains of interest, Etruscan tomb, Roman baths,ancient vault, etc.Leaving Cortona, the railway soon brings us to BorghettoTuoro station on the Lago Trasimeno, the scene of thevictory gained by Hannibal over the Consul Flaminius in 217 B.C. After three hours' slaughter, 15,000 Romans wereleft dead on the field. The brook since called, in consequence,the Sanguinetto, ran red with streams of blood. Byron thuswrites of Lago Trasimeno;—" I roamBy Thrasymene's lake, in the defiles Fatal to Roman rashness, more at home.For there the Carthaginian's warlike wiles,Come back before me, as his skill beguiles The host between the mountains and the shore,Where courage falls in her despairing files,And torrents swol'n to rivers with their gore,Reek through the sultry plain with legions scattered o'er. * * * *Far other scene is Thrasymene now,Her lake a sheet of silver, and her plainRent by no ravage save the gentle plough,Her aged trees rise thick as once the slain."

• *

The lake, 30 miles in circumference, is surrounded by hills,and has three islands. A castle on an eminence overlooks thewest side. The next station reached (after passing through atunnel) is Passignano, at the entrance to the defile where thebattle took place. Two more tunnels. Magione, with medievalWatch-tower. Long tunnel. Ellera, view of Perugia to the left.on the heights.44 PERUGIA.PERUGIA.(Hotel. See Appendix. )From the station , omnibus to town, I franc. (Population,22,000. ) Perugia is situated on lofty hills, 1706 feet above the valley of the Tiber. It is surrounded by walls in the form of arolygon, six miles in circumference. Afew streets are wide, andthe squares, etc. , contain many massive old buildings.Perugia was one of the chief cities of Etruria, but was conquered by Rome B.C. 310. At the fall of the Western Empire,it was devastated by the Goths under Totila, and afterwards suffered the usual vicissitudes of Italian towns till its union withthe Popedom under Julius II . and Paul III . In 1708 the townwas captured by the Duke of Savoy, in 1849 by the Austrians,and in 1860 by the Piedmontese.Perugia is distinguished as the fountain-head of the UmbrianSchool of Painting, distinguished by its successful representationof fervent longing, profound devotion, or deep reverie. PietroVannucci, surnamed il Perugino, seceded from Florentine realismto become the chief ornament of this school."Perugia," says Dean Alford, "is the Nuremberg of Italy:full of public buildings and houses, quaint and beautiful, passeddown unhurt from the Middle Ages to our own; full also,which Nuremberg is not, of exquisite examples of the highest art, the works of her world-renowned school of painters; forhere it was that Pietro Perugino lived and painted and taught,and hence that he sent forth his scholars, Pinturicchio, LoSpagna, and the immortal Raffaelle, besides others of lessername, but lesser only by reason of juxtaposition with thosegreater ones. Of Perugino himself we have, in this his owncity, as might be expected, abundant examples; of Raffaellebut few."Dr. Peabody, in his " Reminiscences of European Travel,"says, " Perugia is one of the most charming places in Italy.Its site is more than beautiful-it is glorious. It lies on anuneven and rugged eminence, with sweet valleys below, aglimpse of the Tiber in the distance, a splendid range of nearerhills, and beyond them some of the higher snow-crowned peaksof the Apennines.. The city is wholly medieval,quaint, strange, dilapidated, with vestiges of former grandeur·PERUGIA. 45everywhere; yet evidently with little remaining wealth, except of art."The tourist will not fail to observe the magnificentviews of the Umbrian Valley from various points in andaround the town, especially from the Piazza, in front of thePalazzo Comunale, on the site of the former citadel, and theplanted terrace near the Church of St. Pietro di Casinensi.Palazzo Comunale (in the Corso) , 1281-1333 .Italian-Gothic edifice. See arms of confederate towns overgateway Griffin , Perugia; Wolf, Siena, etc.Collegio della Mercanzia, on ground floor of the"palazzo," containing some beautiful " tarsia, " carved and inlaidwood-works, dating from 1440.Frescoes in Sala della Prefettura Bonfigli.Frescoes in Sala del Cambio († franc) . • Perugino.On the right sibyls and prophets; on the left heroes, kings,and philosophers. The Nativity and Transfiguration, etc.Perugino executed these works in 1500 for 350 ducats.Raffaelle is said to have assisted. Hawthorne, speaking of thishall, says, When the room was in its first glory I can conceivethat the world had not elsewhere to show, within so smalla space, such magnificence and glory as were then displayed here."66Altar- piece and frescoes in adjoining chapel,Giannicola Manni.The Cathedral of S. Lorenzo ( 15th century) is still unfinished .· Masterpiece of Barocci.Constantino da Rosato and Fra Brunacci.Descent from the CrossPainted WindowBeautiful carved seats, etc., in chapels.Marble Sarcophagus, with remains of Innocent III. ,IV. , and Martin IV.In the winter Choir, Madonna and Saints ( 1519)Library rich in precious manuscripts.UrbanLuca Signorelli.The University (fee -1 franc), now in a suppressedmonastery, was founded in 1320. It embraces a small BotanicGarden, Mediæval Museum, and Scientific Collection. Thelatter is of little value. The Museum Guardabassi deserves avisit.The Pinacoteca, now attached to the Palazzo Comunal46 PERUGIA.(fee, I franc), contains paintings, chiefly of the Umbrian school,from suppressed monasteries, churches, etc.ROOM I.No. 2. Adoration of the Magi99 5. Last JudgmentAscension 7. ورArrigo Fiammingo.Dono Doni d'Assisi.Fiammingo.ROOM II. (SALA DEI CIMELII).29 I. Madonna and Saints", 14.""22 26. CrucifixionMeo da Siena.Guido da Siena( 1300) .Margaritone d'Arezzo ( 1280) .ROOM III.3. Life of S. Lodovico, Bishop ofToulouse Bonfigli (1486) .Life of S. Herculanus Ilid.ROOM IV.Fragments of Frescoes by various masters,transferred on canvas.ROOM V. (SALA TADDEO BARTOLI) .No. 9. Madonna, with Angels Taddeo Bartoli ( 1403) ."" 10.22.Descent of the Holy Ghost"" GloriaIbid.Taddeo Gaddi.ROOM VI. ( SALA DELL' ANGELICO) .Madonna" II.and Saints •Fra Angelico da Fiesole.Pietro della Francesca.ROOM VII. (SALA DEI BONFIGLI) .Annunciation of the Virgin, andseveral other pictures,, 19-20. Gloria · Benedetto Bonfigli.Boccati da Camerino ( 1447) .ROOM VIII.Adoration of the Magi, with portrait of Perugino .Gloria and Saints·• ·Fco. di Lorenzo ( 1487) .Luca Signorelli da Cortona,master of Michael Angelo.PERUGIA. 47دوROOM IX.Adoration of the Shepherds, Baptism of Christ, andseveral other pictures Perugino ( 1512) .Also an autograph of the same master.ROOM X.Great Altar, with Madonna and SaintsMadonna della ConsolazioneNo.10.6.9. Beata Columba da RietiAdoration of the Magi·ROOM XIII.·Pinturicchio.Perugino.Lo Spagna.attributed to Raphael.,, 36. Holy Family, a drawing by Raphael, executed byDomenico Alfani.", 37Ibid.. Madonna and SaintsROOM XV.وو I. Head of Christ6. دو8.Madonna .Christ •3. Small Madonna• School of Michael Angelo.Sassoferrato.Federico Barocci.Annibale Caracci.The Antiquarian Museum contains urns, inscriptions,coins, bronzes, terra- cottas, etc. In the first room is the longestknown Etruscan inscription ( 45 lines) still undeciphered.Amongst the 103 churches of Perugia, the following maybe noticed. Most of the pictures the churches formerly con- tained are now exhibited in the Pinacoteca.Chapel of S. Severo. Formerly a monastery, now acollege, contains the first fresco of Raphael, 1505 (muchdamaged), and the last, by Perugino (1521).S. Domenico ( 1632 ) , with lofty campanile, now partially removed. Altar in terra- cotta by Agostino della Rubbia ( 1460).Gothic window ( 1411 ) , from earlier church on this site Frà Bartolomeo di Pietro da Perugia.Tomb of Benedict XI. (who died of poisonedfigs, 1305) • • Giovanni Pisano.S. Pietro de Casinensi, with antique granite andmarble columns, erected in 969 byIn S. Aisle. -Tomb of Countess Baldeschi.drawings byS. Pietro Abbate.FromFr. Overber48PERUGIA.Above the Sacristy.- Saints In the Sacristy. -Five SaintsHoly FamilyJesus and JohnSassoferrato.Perugino.Parmeggianino.Raphael.Choir, with fine 16th century wood carvings,drawing by Raphael and executed by Stefanoand Damiano da Bergamo ( 1536).In N. Aisle. - PietàAdoration of the Magi (1505) .Perugino.Eusebio de S. Giorgio.Raphael, whose portrait is pointed out in the picture, is said to have assisted in this work.In the Capella del Sacramento- FrescoesMadonnaJudithS.S. Benedetto and MauroAt end of N. Aisle. -Pietà and Saints.Vasari.Lo Spagna.Sassoferrato.Arrigo Fiammingo.In the second chapel to the left; Christ in the Garden of Gethsemane • Guido Reni.Vibi Chapel, fine sculptured altar by Mino da Fiesole( 1473) Angelo. Circular , with antique columns in the· •interior. Temple anciently dedicated to the " Dea Vesta. "Confraternita della Giustizia di S. Bernardino, hasa fine façade by ( 1461 ) Agostino Fiorentino.Madonna della Luce, with fresco by L'Ingegno.Amongst the palaces, etc., of Perugia, the following are worthy of attention:-Palazzo Conestabile (fee 1 franc) , Frescoes . Perugino.and four pictures by Sassoferrato.The celebrated small Madonna, by Raphael, was sold to theEmperor of Russia in 1871 , for 350,000 francs.Palazzo Baldeschi. Drawing for a fresco at SienaMadonna·•Raphael.Perugino.Collection of Avv. Romualdi. Bronzes, coins,cameos, and collection of drawings andpictures by Caracci, Perugino, etc. Libreria Pubblica, with 30,000 vols. , and many rare MSS.House of Perugino, in the Via Deliziosa.Arco di Augusto, with inscription " Augusta Perusia."he foundations are Etruscan, the upper part dates from afterASSISI. 49the burning of the city in the war between Octavius and Anthony.Fountain in front of Cathedral by Nicolò andGiovanni da Pisa ( 1277-1280). Statuettes in centre by Arnolfodi Cambio. Bronze statue of Julius III . by Vincenzio Danti(1556), in the Piazza del Papa.To the left of the Palazzo del Podesta , destroyed in1500, notice the small Gothic gate still remaining.In the new Roman Road, near the Ponte S. Giovanni, aboutthree miles from the town, is the Grotta de' Volunni , in theancient Necropolis of Perugia, discovered in 1840 by apeasant while digging for herbs. It is one of the most perfectEtruscan tombs existing. A long flight of steps leads to theentrance. Inside, on the doorpost, are the names of Arnth andLarth Velimnas in red paint. The tomb contains ten chambers,the chief and most perfect being 28 feet long. In this areshelves supporting recumbent stone figures with their urns.The ceiling is curiously cut and panelled in squares, with aGorgon's head in the centre. On the walls are numerous representations of serpents, dragons, etc. The urns, lamps, etc.,taken from this tomb can also be seen. The custodian may befound at the villa of Count Baglioni, situated close at hand.From Perugia there is a communication by diligence (56miles) to Todi. Also by diligence ( 13 miles) to Città di Castello in the upper valley of the Tiber.On leaving Perugia the railway runs along the heights,through several tunnels, to station Ponte S. Giovanni; thencrosses the Tiber, the ancient frontier of Umbria and Etruria,also the Chiasco, and after passing station Bastia, reaches station Assisi.Gubbio. Whilst at Perugia, an excursion could be madeto the old episcopal see of Gubbio; four hours' distance bycarriage. The birthplace of Ottaviano Nelli, whose frescoesare to be seen in St. Maria Nuova. The Cathedral, datingfrom the sixth century of the Christian era, contains a good collection of pictures.In the church of S. Pietro is a Gloria by Rafaellino delColle, and frescoes by Timoteo della Vite. Also visit the Pina- coteca,ASSISI.(Population 5000.) Assisi is the city of St. Francis, the founder of the Order of Mendicant Friars called Franciscar450 ASSISI.The story of his life has been exquisitely told by Mrs. Oliphant, whose work opens with the following admirable descrip- tion:-66 Towards the end of the 12th century, in the year 1182,Francis Bernardone, the son of Pietro Bernardone and MadonnaPica, his wife, was born in the little town of Assisi , which hassince become illustrious through his name and memory. Thevale of Umbria, the very heart and centre of Italy, with its richfields and woods and pleasant streams-a garden of Edensituated between two seas; yet unconscious of either, shut inby hills which stretch upward through vineyards and olivegardens to the dark foliage of the oak and fir on the crest ofApennine-lay at the feet of the little mountain borough, thenquite undistinguished among the other fierce little independenttowns that shone on the neighbouring slopes within sight of its watch-towers. It is difficult to form even an imagination ofAssisi apart from the great man who has been its glory for six centuries, and has made of it at once a monument and a shrine.But yet it existed, with less difference than it is easy to conceive, walled and defended on its sunny height, a warlike municipality, no doubt ready to defy Perugia opposite, or Foligno;prepared to ring its bells in loud alarum, and pour forth its excited burghers, on the smallest provocation, for the defenceof those narrow streets and lofty houses, which to them wereboth home and country. No larger patriotism existed at the time in Italy. The city, not the country, was the object ofevery man's devotion . The world within those walls was bigenough for public spirit and enterprise, for faction and party,for making of war without and many a tumult within. Thewalls exist still, though the gates are guarded only by thehomely officers of the Dogana; and all the curious precautionsof the past, like the intricacies of an old- fashioned lock, are innocently open to the eyes of the peaceable traveller. But thenarrow, lofty streets into which, when any passing commotion arises, the people throng out like bees, while those who remainat home scream at each other from the high windows, just asthey might have done when the tocsin was sounding, and thegreat cathedral bells giving forth warning notes of danger,remain curiously unchanged."" Probably, the very shops-dark caverns, with one vast

• "Francis of Assisi, " by Mrs. Oliphant. -Macmillian & Co.

ASSISI. 51door giving all the light that can penetrate even from Italianskies to the ground- floor of a seven or eight-storied buildingdeep down inthe depths of a narrow lane-look very much likethat shop to which Messer Pietro came home from his journeyinto France, and where he first heard that his son was born.But such a man as Pietro Bernardone was of a very differentclass from the shopkeepers of the nineteenth century."Hawthorne, the American traveller, says, " The city seemslike a stony growth out of the hillside, or a fossilized city, soold and singular it is, without enough life and juiciness in it tobe susceptible of decay. Nothing is more strangethan to think that this now dead city-dead as regards the purposes for which men live now- a-days - was centuries ago theseat, and birthplace almost, of art, the only art in which thebeautiful part of the human mind then developed itself. "Dante has celebrated the picturesque beauty of Assisi andthe glory which encircles it as the scene of St. Francis's piouslabours, and the sanctuary of the early Italian art, which sought to immortalize those labours." Between Tupino and the wave that falls From blest Übaldo's chosen hill there hangsRich slope of mountain high, whence heat and cold Are wafted through Perugia's eastern gate.Upon that side Where it doth break its steepness most, aroseAsun upon the world as duly thisFrom Ganges doth; therefore let none who speak Of that place, say Assisi -or its name Were lamely so delivered. But the Orient,To call things rightly, be it henceforth styled. "The Monastery of the Franciscans , now partiallyused as a school for the sons of teachers (fee 1 franc) is aconspicuous object in approaching Assisi. From the outerpassage we obtain splendid views of the valley. The monastery,said to have been founded in 1228 by the Emperor Frederick II. ,as a home for the new order, contains in the refectories severalfrescoes of great interest; two, representing the " Last Supper,"by Solimene and Dono Doni; but the three churches are thechief source of attraction. As we reflect on the former gloryof the Franciscan Order, and gaze around the halls and churchesof the convent, we are forcibly reminded how " the old orderchangeth," and how, with the changed circ*mstances of newborn Italy, new ideas have risen to prominence and power"The frescoes of Cimabue, the glorious allegories of Giotto52 ASSISI.66 says a recent visitor to Assisi, were no longer shown with aconsciousness of pride and of joyful possession, but rather asreminiscences of a departing greatness. The very frescoesthemselves, especially the grand series illustrating the life andsupposed miracles of the saint, seemed to sympathize with thedecay of the institution, as they showed the marks of age, hereand there obliterated and dropping in fragments to the ground.Some were already so indistinct that their story could no longerbe traced. The marks of that strong early genius, whoheralded the glorious line of Italian art, still cling to the walls,but their meaning can no longer be clearly read. I could notlook at them without a feeling of regret that no applications ofmodern art can save these fine conceptions, everywhere instinctwith an archaic dignity and spirituality of thought under alltheir dim- coloured formal outlines; and even here and there,their apparent childishness of external design. The groups ofthe cardinal Christian virtues, Poverty, Chastity, and Obedience,with which Giotto surrounded the high- altar of the second ormiddle church, are still comparatively living, richly colouredand divinely expressive, if not so fresh as when they came fromhis hands.There are three churches enclosed within one great Gothic edifice. In the Lower Church, erected in 1228-32,areTomb of John de Brienne, King of Jerusalem ( 13th century ) ,or of Hecuba, Queen of Cyprus, 1240.Chapel of the CrucifixionChapel of S. Louis. Frescoes byProphets and Sibyls on Roof .Fuccio Cavallini.Adone Doni ( 1574) .Andrea del Ingegno.Giottino.Chapel of S. Antonio di Padua (modernized) ,frescoesChapel of S. Maddalena, frescoes . Buffalmaco.In S. Transept, frescoes, Taddeo Gaddi & Giovanni da Milano.Frescoes round the High Altar, representingPoverty, Chastity, Obedience, etc. (See p. 54)In N. Transept.-St . Francis receiving theStigmata (frescoes)Crucifixion Madonna and S. Catherine··Giotto.Puccio Capanna.Pietro Cavallini.• Lo Spagna.In the Sacristy, handsome cabinets, 17th century."Veil of the Virgin."MSS. of St. Francis, a Benediction, and Rules of the Order.ASSISI. 53Portrait of St. Francis (attrib. ) Giunta da Pisa.On Pulpit of the church, Coronation of theVirgin (attrib. )Under the Music Gallery, St. Francis receiving the Stigmata, a frescoChapel of St. Martin. Scenes in the life ofFra Martino.Giotto.St. Martin Simone Mannui da Siena.Stained Windows by Angeletto Pietro da Gubbio & Boninod'Assisi.The Upper Church is publicly openedfestivals. Visitors can inspect it on application .some window on west side.Subjects from the Bible and ApocalypseLife of St. Francis, frescoesOld and New Testament frescoesFrescoes in TranseptChoir Stalls carved by .only on greatNotice handCimabue.Giotto (1298).Cimabue (1280) .Giunta da Pisa ( 1252 ) .Domenico da S. Severino ( 1450).Red Marble Papal Throne Fuccio., Gregory IX.The Crypt was excavated in 1822, when, after 500 yearsof controversy, the vexed question of the last resting- place ofSt. Francis was settled, by the discovery of his remains in astone coffin. The genuineness of this discovery was confirmedby the decision of a congregation of cardinals, and announcedto the church by Pius VII .; all sceptics in the matter being henceforth declared liable to excommunication .66 Before passing to the other attractions of Assisi, we quote,from the Diary of an Idle Woman in Italy," the followingaccount of a visit to the three churches of the convent:-"Up and down two or three break- neck streets, and weenter the outer cortile, leading to the three separate churchesinto which the vast pile is divided . This cortile is on a levelwith the middle church. High above rises the upper church;while below the ground on which we stand is the lower onethe burying- place of St. Francis, excavated out of the solidrock on which the artificial supports of the superstructure arebuilt . The cortile, surrounded by low arched cloisters, isdesolate and grass-grown. We passed through a richly- sculptured pointed arch, to the left, into other cloisters, which arelarge and airy, and covered with half- obliterated frescoes.the centre is a deep well, full of the most lively fish.In54 ASSISI."The middle church is the most interesting, as it containsthe three celebrated frescoes of Giotto, representing Chastity,Poverty, and Obedience. Poverty is pictured as a poor but beautiful woman whom our Saviour is about to wed to St.Francis. Around are a number of boys jeering. Chastitystands in the centre of a great fortification surrounded by angels and armed men. St. Francis, with a body of attendants, is onhis way to pay the virtue a visit." The subterranean church contains the tomb of St. Francis.This is situated inside a chapel, surrounded by beautiful yellowporphyry pillars, and is cut out of the rock. The monksapproach it with great veneration.66 The upper church, which is reached by long flight ofstairs, is not nearly so pretty as the other two, but containssome beautiful frescoes by Cimabue and Giotto.Two verycelebrated ones by Giotto represent events in the history ofSt. Francis. One is a scene illustrative of the saint's ascent toheaven, in which he appears driving over clouds in a red car,drawn by two very mundane- looking horses. The other hasoften been referred to, and is much the prettier of the two.It makes the holy father appear in the midst of a beautifulgarden, in which is congregated every species of bird, some inthe trees and some on the ground; while out of the pond,which is also here, the fishes' heads are protruded, as thoughtheir owners were intently listening. "Connected with the associations that surround the Franciscan convent, is the Church of S. Maria degli Angeli ,about a mile and a half from the town. It is near the station ,and can be visited before passing on to Assisi. Here, sixcenturies ago, St. Francis laid the foundation of his order,taking upon himself the vow of poverty, and going forth topreach the gospel of self- denial. Only seven kindred spiritswere leagued with him, when he first instituted the great Fran- ciscan order in 1209. Adherents soon joined the cause fromevery country in Europe. Innocent III . in 1210 gave it papalsanction. Several branches of this order (Seraphic Brethren,Capuchins, etc. ) have arisen from time to time. The saint issaid to have received the stigmata in a vision in 1224. Hedied in 1226, and was canonized by Gregory IX. in 1228.Several of his letters and other works are extant.The Church of S. Maria degli Angeli was built over theoriginal oratory or cell of St. Francis by Vignola . Nave and choir re-erected after the earthquake of 1832 .ASSISI. 55Vision of St. Francis (fresco) 1829Life of St. Francis (frescoes)Overbeck.Tiberio d'Assisi.Hut where St. Francis died, with frescoes by Lo Spagna.In the Piazza of Assisi is the Church of S. Mariadella Minerva, with remains of classic ruins in and near it.Especially worthy of note are the six columns of Travertine,originally the portico of a Temple of Minerva, but now attachedto the church. When Goethe visited this spot, he was so enchanted with this vestige of ancient art that he went away without visiting the convent, for fear of disturbing the associations.Chiesa Nuova, on the site of the house where St. Francis was born.Cathedral of S. Rufino (12th century) .earlier date ( 1028) . Entrance, 25 c.Crypt ofS. Chiara. Gothic church ( 1253 ) , by Fra Filippo daCampello, but altered since his time. Beneath the high-altar isthe tomb of St. Clara, who left wealth and luxury to found the order of Clarissines . Round the tomb are handsome colouredmarbles. Frescoes by Giotto and Giottino adorn the church.In front of the Duomo on the piazza, notice a modernstatue of St. Francis by Dupré.The Hermitage delle Carceri , one of the oratories ofSt. Francis, is in a ravine behind the town.Assisi was the birthplace of Propertius (46 B.C. ) , and ofMetastatio (opera writer) , in 1693, a.D.From Assisi the train conveys us toSpello (ancient Hispellum), with ancient gates and walls.In S. Maria Maggiore, Frescoes by Pinturicchio ( 1501.)Pietà and Madonna. Perugino.In S. Francesco ( 1228) , altar-piece Pinturicchio ( 1508).In S. Andrea, Madonna by Pinturicchio. The smallpicture beneath the Madonna, representing S. John, is attributed to Raphael.Various Roman antiquities are shown in Spello, amongothers a miscalled " House of Propertius. "Crossing the Topino, we next reach the station at Foligno,(see p 38) , and then proceed along the valley of the cl*tumnus toTrevi (ancient Trebia) .Church of S. Emiliano ( 12th century) .Altars byPortals and Rocco da Vicenze56SPOLETO.Church of Madonna delle Lagrime.Adoration of the Magi Descent from the Cross . Perugino.Lo Spagna.Church of S. Martino . Madonna .Tiberio d'Assisi.Coronation of the Virgin • Lo Spagna.Between Trevi and the next station are several objects ofinterest. An ancient temple, now church of S. Salvatore.Near the village of Le Vene is the source of the cl*tumnus,described by Pliny, alluded to by Byron as the"Sweetest waveOfthe most living crystal that was e'er The haunt of water nymph."Villages of Campello and S. Giacomo; in the latter achurch with frescoes by · . Lo Spagna.Spoleto (population 12,000, m. from station; two- horsecarriage I franc) is next reached. Spoletium was colonized bythe Romans 242 B.C., sustained a siege and repelled a vigorousattack of Hannibal in 267, and went through the usual experiences incident to civil war, barbaric invasion, and mediævaltumult. It was captured by the Piedmontese 18th September,1860, in spite of a gallant defence of the castle by MajorO'Reilly, an Irishman.Several relics of Roman temples, theatre, gateway, etc. , areto be seen.Cathedral of S. Maria Assunta, erected in 617 A D. ,by Duke Theodelapius, but frequently restored. The façade,with its stone pulpits, arches, and curious frieze, dates fromthe 13th century.Over the entrance · , Mosaic byThe interior was renovated in 1644.In the Choir, Frescoes {In Winter Choir, Carvings .Paintings .Solsernus ( 1207).Fra Filippo Lippi & Fra Diamante ( 1470).• Bramante.Lo Spagna.Tomb of Fra Filippo Lippi. This monk was poisoned bythe relatives of Lucrezia Buti, a noble Florentine lady, whoseaffections he had gained, and whom he managed to abduct from a convent.Frescoes in the Baptistery. Style of .Font of Travertine, with Sculptures.Frescoes in ChapelGiulio Romano.Pinturicchio.TERNI. 57There are several other churches in the town, but of little interest.In the Palazzo Pubblico are several ancient inscriptions ,and a valuable collection of petrefactions will be found in thePalazzo Toni, and several pictures by Lo Spagna.Whilst at Spoleto, the Rocco ( 1223 feet) , or the MonteLuco, opposite, should be visited for the sake of the prospect.The Aqueduct delle Torri, built by Theodelapius, Duke ofSpoleto (604) , is used as a bridge to Monte Luco.From Spoleto the railway passes up Monte Somma (4038feet) to a height of 2231 feet, and then through a tunnel tothe Nera valley. Very attractive and wild scenery. ( See routeAquila-Terni. )Terni (ancient Interamna, population 16,000) . Birth- place of the historian Tacitus. Roman remains; pleasantwalks on Ramparts, etc. Celebrated waterfalls in theneighbourhood (650 feet) . Lake and village of Piedilugo.Large weapon manufactory belonging to the Italian Govern- ment.(In October, 1883 , a new railway was opened from Ternito Aquila, where it joins the line to Pescara, thus making another connection between the west and east coasts of Italy . )The next station reached is Narni . Birthplace of Nerva.Ancient castle, now a prison. Cathedral ( 13th century), interesting architecture. Town-ball contains a Coronation of Mary,by Lo Spagna (retouched) . Umbrian town of Emelia, withCyclopean walls, etc., 6 miles N.W. Otricoli, 7 miles S.;antiquities, volcanic deposits, etc. Bridge of Augustus,short walk from Narni; one arch entire, 61 feet in height.The railway follows the Nera valley, and then crosses theTiber by a chain- bridge, and arrives at Orte, a picturesque town. Descending the right bank of the Tiber valley, we seethe ridge of Mount Soracte, pass two or three villages, and arriveat Borghetto (with ruined castle) . Here is the Ponte Felice,a handsome bridge built by Augustus. After a brief view of Civita- Castellana, we cross to left bank of the Tiber. Theroute is now as follows: -Stimigliano and Montorso, stations amongst the olive- trees of the beautiful Sabina district. Passodi Correse (ancient Cures) , the birthplace of Numa Pompilius.Monte Rotondo, with a castle of the Orsini; fine views of the Sabine Mountains. Village stormed by Garibaldi in 1867 .I mile to the S.E. lies the village of " Mentana," where Garibaldi was defeated by the Papal troops in 1867. After cross58 FLORENCE TO ROME, BY SIENA.ing the Anio, with the Sabine and Alban mountains to theleft, the dome of St. Peter's, Rome, rises to view, and thetrain shortly arrives at the terminus, near the Baths of Dio- cletian.Rome, p. 71.FLORENCE TO ROME, BY SIENA ANDORVIETO.(220 miles-12 hours. )On leaving Florence the railway passes near the Cascine,and through a pleasant suburb with many good villas, to S.Donnino and Signa. Then succeeds a beautiful valley, theGonfolina, and then Montelupo, where there is a fortified castle,the "Mountain of the Wolf" (Montelupo) .Empoli. Here the railway for Rome turns southward,while the line to Pisa continues westward. Empoli is an oldtown, and held an important position in the time of the warsof Guelphs and Ghibellines. It is now insignificant; and thereis nothing to detain the tourist here except a church ( 1093 ),Baptistery ( 1447) , two or three good pictures, and some old houses, much the worse for wear.From Empoli, the line follows the right bank of the Elsa,passing (on the r. ) lofty tower of S. Miniato dei Tedeschi tostation Osteria Banca; then station Castel Fiorentino.Station Certaldo.-Town on hill to the left. Boccaccioborn here in 1313; died here in 1375. House of Boccaccio restored 1823.Station Poggibonsi. -Volterra can be visited from this point.Carriage 15 f.S. Gimignano can be reached in a two hours' drive fromPoggibonsi. A medieval town on the heights, remarkable forits many tall square towers, and containing several buildings of interest. The Palazzo Comunale, with pictures andfrescoes by Lippo Memmi, Filippino Lippi. Torre del Comune ( 1298) , 180 feet in height. Palazzo del Podesta(1250). Church of La Collegiata ( 11th century); frescoesby Ghirlandaio, etc. S. Agostino ( 1280) . S. Jacopo( 12th century); and S. Girolamo, all with pictures andfrescoes worth seeing.SIENA. 59After leaving Poggibonsi, notice the Chateaux of Staggiaand Monte Riggioni, both on the right; then passing through tunnel, we reachSIENA.(Population 26,000. )Siena is 1330 feet above the sea level, with a healthy climate,and many attractions for the tourist. It has more Gothicedifices than Italian cities usually possess, and in no town inItaly can there be found finer specimens of Italian Gothic Architecture of the 13th and 14th centuries. Three or fourdays can be spent here to advantage.Siena (ancient Sena Julia) , founded by Senonian Gauls,was made a Roman colony by Augustus. It was a thrivingtown in the middle ages; a free state as early as the 12thcentury, and took a prominent part in the struggles betweenGuelphs and Ghibellines. Its population once reached nearly ICO, 000. A century later tyrants overthrew the populargovernment; and in 1500 A.D. through one of them, PandolfoPetrucci (Machiavelli's chief example of tyranny) , the citybecame subject to the Medicis of Florence. Under Cosmo diMedici, the Count of Marignano wasted Siena and the Maremme district with fire and sword.The Sienese school of painting is remarkable for devotionalfeeling, pathetically and delicately expressed.The most noted master in its earlier period was SimoneMartini (d. 1344), and in its later period, the more celebratedSodoma ( 1480-1549) . The best Italian wood-carving ( especiallyin 15th and 16th centuries) has been produced in Siena.A good general idea of the town of Siena is given by Mrs. Elliott, thus:-""There stands the stout old city which I know so well,unchanged since I first beheld it-unchanged since the days ofthe Triumvirate-crowning a precipitous hill , or rather, manyhills, the grand old walls, baked yellow by the sun of manycenturies, running obstinately up hill and down dale, brokenhere and there by a cypress wood, or a huge church jutting outon a high promontory, or a castle with quaint towers, mullions,buttresses, and battlements along the sky-line. Always in the middle ages, we ignore the existence of gunpowder as a grossaffront to our understandings, and deem these walls impregnaDarkening the walls at intervals by deep shadows,6660 SIENA.lofty macchiolated gates flanked by turrets, giant Cerberuseskeeping watch, hostile and grim outwardly, but lit up withinby richest frescoes of virgins and saints and angels, so that allwho leave the city can see them hovering aloft, and say theirpassing Ave, and return thanks for having been prevented fromfalling headlong down those steep and dreadful adruccioli(slides), which descend from the main streets into the bowelsof the city with a precipitousness perfectly astounding to the constructive sense.'"The Piazza Vittorio Emanuele is a semicircularspace in the centre of the town, which has been for ages thescene of public festivals and assemblies, and is still used as therace-course during the races, il Palio, on July 2nd and August15th. This horse racing is of such a strange character as fairly toastonish every one seeing it. The Englishman doubtless thinksthat he has attained the highest perfection in this " noble "sport. But he cannot realize the Sienese ideal until he hasorganised an annual race round Trafalgar Square, or some suchpublic place. The competitors in the Palio are representativeschosen from the different parishes of Siena, into which fromthe earliest times the city has been divided. Each contrada, ordistrict, has its separate institutions and church, and on this dayturns out in full force, with flags, bands, and procession. Thecourse is the Piazza, around which on one side a series of stageshave been erected; and against the houses in different parts ofthe route, huge mattresses are placed to prevent the lucklessriders-some of whom are sure to be thrown off-from dashingout their brains. At the boom of cannon the processions beginto move along the course. Each contrada-named from somenatural object, such as the wave, the giraffe, the goose, etc.—bears its colours and representative symbol prominently displayed. Along the Piazza they pass one after the other, seventeenin all, with all the pomp and parade of a mediæval tournamentparty. When the procession is over, the cannon again booms,and the riders and the horses come forward ready for the race.At a given signal they start, and race round and round thePiazza until they are stopped by the tinkling of a bell . Thesuccessful jockey is borne away by his contrada to their church,in which their banner is placed, to commemorate the event.-Diary ofan Idle Woman in Italy.The Palazzo Pubblico ( 1293-1309) , frem designs ofa*gostino and Agnolo ( -1 fr. ) . In the Capella di Piazza ,commenced in 1348, and completed in 1376, are-SIENA. 61Death and Assumption ofthe VirginAltar-piece, Holy FamilyCarved Choir Stalls ( 1429)Fine Iron Screen ( 1436-45) .In Vestibule. Curious FrescoTaddeo Bartoli.• Sodoma.Domenico di Niccolò.In Sala del Gran Consiglio, Madonna and ChildGuidoziccio de' FoglianiSS. Ansano, Victor, BernardinoTaddeo Bartoli.Simone Martini.Ibid.• Sodoma.In Sala di Balia, Events in Lives of Emperor Frederick I. and Pope Alexander III . Spinello Aretino.In adjoining Room, Madonna Matteo da Siena.Portraits, 8 Popes and 39 Cardinals (born at Siena) .In Sala del Concistoro, CeilingSplendid Marble Door •In Sala dei Nove, FrescoesIn Sala del Sindaco, Resurrection••Beccafumi.Jacopo della Quercia.Ambrogio Lorenzetti.• Sodoma.Tower del Mangia (begun-1325, finished 16thcentury) . ( Fee fr. ) Extensive panorama from the top.Fonte-Gaja opposite the Palazzo Pubblico with bas- reliefsin marble; originally by Jacopo della Quercia, now preserved inthe Opera del Duomo, but recently reproduced by Parrocchi partly restored; some originals to be found in the Opera del Duomo.The Cathedral stands on the loftiest site in Siena; builtin 13th century, to replace an older church of S. Maria Assunta,built on the site of a Temple of Minerva. Notice ruinedportion of a nave erected in the 14th century, when it wasintended to make the present cathedral the transept of a muchlarger edifice. The Façade ( 1270-1380) designed by GiovanniPisano, with coloured marble decorations, and of mixed architecture; with sculptures (prophets and angels) , by Jacopodella Quercia (1368-1442). The Campanile is in six stories.In the interior of the Cathedral observe the rose windowsand beautiful columns.Terra-cotta busts of Popes round the central Nave.Tribune, with bas-reliefs.Inlaid Marble Pavement, Old Testament scenesDuccio, Beccafumi, &c.Jacopo della Quercia.Basins for Holy Water, beautiful pieces ofsculpture after design of.62 SIENA.Beautiful carving of Choir Stalls ( 1569) , fromdesigns by Riccio, and inlaid (tarsia) workbyBronze Tabernacle ( 1472)·Fra Giovanni da Verona.·Lorenzo da Pietri.The Pulpit, in sculptured marble, is surrounded by ten columns representingscenes from the New Testament by Pisano & Pupils.Picture (divided, in two chapels) . Duccio di Buoninsegna.Life of our Saviour, in 26 sections, in chapel of the Eucharist.Madonna and Child, with Saints ( 1311 ) . For which 3000ducats was paid to the artist.Statue of S. John (in chapel)Font ·Statue of S. Ansano(ditto)Frescoes, Life of S. John, etc.Donatello.Jacopo della Quercia.Neroccio.Pinturicchio.Coronation of Pius III . ( over entrance to Library) Ibid.The Library of the Cathedral contains ten well- pre- served frescoes of the celebrated Pinturicchio, representing scenes from the life of Piccolomini (PiusII. ) . The last fresco on the right-hand side isbelieved to be by Raphael ·29 Choir Books, with miniatures by {Ibid.Ansano di Pietro, and others.. Tenerani, Ricci, etc.Michael Angelo.Ibid.Some modern MonumentsMonument of Bandino BandiniAltar (Piccolomini family) , with statuesChapel of the Chigi, with gold, marble, andlapis-lazuli decorations; and statues of S.Jerome and Mary Magdalene, byNotice the beautiful Mosaic representing the " Flight intoEgypt." The original oil picture by Carlo Maratti is to beseen in the Palazzo Chigi in Rome.• Giovanni Bernini.S. John Baptist-under the cathedral choir ancientlythe Baptistery. Gothic façade, and brazen Font, with statuaryby Lorenzo Ghil erti, Donatello, etc. Also some 15th centuryfrescoes.The Opera del Duomo contains statuary, paintings, etc.The Three Graces ( antique), removed from Rome.Sculptures from the Fonte Gaja Jacopo della Quercia.Sculptures from the Capella di Piazza, etc.Flag, with Transfiguration of ChristDrawings from Cathedral pavement.· Sodoma.SIENA. 63Collection of 13th and 14th century Crosiers.Four Saints .Credo, byLorenzetti.Taddeo Bartoli.The Pellegrinajo, hospital, with Church of S. Mariadella Scala. Room with Frescoes ( fr. ) by Domenico diBartolo, etc. The Instituto delle Belle Arti. Admission, I lira,9.0 to 3.0 daily. Pictures of great historical interest, chiefly of the elder Sienese school.When entering, turn to the left and commence by the second corridor on the right.EARLY SIENESE SCHOOL (Byzantine Style) .No. I to 17. Religious pictures in the Byzantine style.Madonna 6. دو""20, 22, 23. Madonna and Saints18. St. Francis """" 46. Madonna and Saints•,, 54, 55, 58, 59. Saints , etc.,, 79 to 85. Adoration of Magi, etc. ,, 90. Madonna and SaintsIn the third room to the leftGuido da Siena.Duccio Buoninsegna.Margaritone d'Arezzo.Lorenzetti Ambrogio.Lorenzetti Pietro.Bartolo di Fredi.Memmi Lippo.No. 134. St. Ludovic and Last Judgment . Giovanni di Paolo.Notice in same room large collectionof older Byzantine pictures by .No. 166. Madonna, etc.دووو"• Sano di Pietro.Matteo di Giovanni.Sodoma (1500).(One of the best painters of the 15th century. )205. Christ about to be Scourged219. Æneas departing from Troy220. Liberation of the Captives } Genga Girolamo.Notice eight elegant carved pillarsIn the next roomNos. 236-242. Coronation and Death ofthe VirginBarrili (1500).Spinello Arretino.In far-end room notice a fine picture representing the Annunciation of the VirginIn the GRAND SALOONBehind the columns, 2 Frescoes• Taddeo Bartoli.Sodoma.No. 345. Large Madonna in Gloria ( 1512) Fungai Bernardino." 356. Judith Sodoma.64 SIENA.No. 366. Resurrection""""""368. Fall of the Angel373. Annunciation ( 1500) .377. Descent from the Cross395. Ascension . •In corner of large Saloon, notice theMadonna, byreplaced on canvas.END ROOMBenvenuto di Giovanni.Beccafumi.Girolamo del Pacchia.Sodoma.Pacchiarotti Giacomo.Pietro Lorenzetti ( 1300) ,45. Holy FamilyNo. 36.66 Mora Players .""وو 53. Portrait by""""وو54. Portrait of Charles V.52-69. Flowers, with ivory frame63. St. Catherine•81. Madonna and Child "" 85. Nativity""41. دودو"" دو91-99. St. Catherine and St. Magdalen,,, 102. Landscape •Small Room to the leftOriginal Cartoons (History of Moses)Caravaggio.Pinturicchio.Schongauer.Amberger.Marrel.Beccafumi.Sodoma.Palma Vecchio.Caracci.Frà Bartolomeo.• Domenichino.Beccafumi.The execution of the above drawings are to be seen on thegriffit- floor ofthe Cathedral.Respecting the No. 205 in the foregoing list, Dean Alford thus writes: -6"There is one fresco in the Sienese Gallery, to see whichis worth the journey hither. I mean, of course, the magnificentpicture by Bazzi, commonly called Sodoma, ' of our Lordbound to the pillar. It is impossible to imagine the majestyof suffering better represented. The execution of the details isperfect. The prevalent tint is a reddish- brown; and the texture of the flesh so delicately painted, as to give a waxen, or almost an enamel effect. It is a work on which the wholepower and devotion of no ordinary genius have been expended:one of those pictures lightly esteemed, it would appear, byconnoisseurs in art (Kugler hardly mentions it, and describesit wrongly), but making on any mind capable of feeling, anindelible impression. "SIENA. 65The Palaces of Siena are of great architectural interest .Most of them date from about 1300 A.D., from designs byAgostino and Agnolo. Palazzo del Magnifico, with exterior bronze decorations by Cozzarelli and Mazzini. PalazzoSaracini. Palazzo Buonsignori. Palazzo Piccolomini; two halls painted by Bernard Van Orley. Palazzodel Governo contains one of the best collections of archivesin Italy. Here are preserved 52,000 documents, charters, etc. ,from 736 A.D. Valuable autographs, miniatures, etc. PalazzoPollini , with Frescoes by Sodoma. (? )Several interesting fountains, gates (with frescoes) , etc. ,will be noticed in the public streets and places. The University has a monument to Nicolò Aringhieri ( 1374) . TheLibrary, in the Accademia degli Intronati, possesses 40,000volumes and 5000 MSS.; the Greek gospels (9th century) , -from Palace of the Emperors at Constantinople—and otherprecious works. It is the oldest library in Europe. TheCitadel was built by Cosimo I. on the site of a fortress of Charles V.Amongst the Churches of Siena are, —S. Domenica ( 1220-1465) .Frescoes in Chapel of S. CatherineMadonna (in 2nd chapel 1. of altar)"" .r وو دوS. Agostina (restored 1755, by Vanvitelli).Crucifixion (2nd altar r.)Slaughter of the Innocents (chapel r. ) .Statue of Pius II. دوAdoration of the Magi (altar piece)Il Carmine. Tower and CloistersNativity of Mary (in chapel, r. ) •Sodoma.Guido da Siena.Matteo da Siena.Matteo da Siena.Pietro Perugino.Duprè.Sodoma.Baldassare Peruzzi.Sodoma.Chiesa del Monastero dei Campansi (now Ospizio di Mendicita) .Frescoes in Cloister; lower part byS. Concezione (dei Servi) .Perugino.Slaughter of the Innocents (4th altar r. )Madonna (1436)Matteo da Siena.· Giovanni di Pietro.S. Francesco ( 1236) . Out of repair; most of the pictures removed. Frescoes byConfraternita di S. Bernardino (fee 1 fr.)Frescoes, Mary visiting Temple, Visitation,Assumption and Coronation of the Virgin Other Frescoes·Lorenzetti.Sodoma.Pacchia & Beccafun566 SIENA.S. Girolamo.S. Martino .Madonna and SaintsCircumcisionMarble SculpturesGilded Wooden StatuesMatteo da Siena.Guido Reni.Marrina.Jacopo della Quercia.Confraternita di Fontegiusta ( 1482) .High Altar (one of the finest sculptures of theperiod)Holy Water Basin ( 1480)Coronation of the MadonnaMarrina.Giovanni delle Bombarde.Fungai.Fresco (restored). Sybil announcing the birthof ChristS. Spirito. Façade ( 1519), byAltar wall with FrescoesB. Peruzzi.Bald. Peruzzi.Sodoma.Crucifixion (Fresco in Cloisters) Fra Bartolommeo & Pupils.House of S. Catherine of Siena . (Feefr.) Three Oratories, containing Picturesfrom the Saint's life . Sodoma, Pacchiarotto, & Salimbeni.The Crucifix from which S. Catherine received her wounds; only shown on the festivalof the Saint (April 30th) .S. CatherineGiunta da Pisa (?) .Sodoma.S. Catherine of Siena was born in 1347; took the veil inher ninth year, and was celebrated for her remarkable visions,etc. She died in 1380; was canonized in 1461 .The Franciscan Monastery of L'Osservanza ( 1423) ,is 2 m. from Siena. The tyrant Pandolfi Petrucci ( 1512 ) isburied here. There are some interesting reliefs and statues ofthe school of Robbia.The Castle of Bel Caro ( 1 hour's drive from Siena) .Fine views of Siena and neighbourhood. Frescoed ceiling(Judgment of Paris), by B. Peruzzi.On leaving Siena, the tourist passes through one of thewildest districts in Italy, among the hills between the Ombroneand the richly fertile valley of the Chiana.The leadingfeatures of the district are strange- looking sand- hills, and barrenand rugged mountains. Here the shell- collector may addlargely to his store, good specimens of marine fossil shells beingboth common and varied . A ride of about 65 minutes brings the train to Asciano.ere there is a branch line from Asciano to Groseto.ans of this line ( 60 m. in length) Siena can, if so, be visited in connection with the coast line route toFLORENCE TO ROME. 67Rome. On leaving Asciano, S. Giovanno d'Asso is firstreached.The suppressed Monastery of Monte Olivete Maggiore is 1 hour's walk from the station . It contains celebrated frescoes by Sodoma and Luca Signorelli . Torrenieri isnext passed, and then Monte Amiata, named from the mountain to the S. ( 5589 feet) . S. Angelo e Cinigiano. The railwayfollows the river Orcia, and then crosses the Ombrone. MonteAntico. Paganico. Here we leave the Ombrone, and windamongst the hills to Rocca Strada, then Sticciano. Join theMaremme railway at Montepescali to the N. of Groseto (seepage 21).Resuming the main line route, the next station passed isthe picturesque walled town of Rapolano, an increasinglyfrequented watering- place, especially during July and August.A recent visitor, after warning the tourist that Rapolano isconspicuous for the absence of the usual attractions of Continental watering- places, goes on to say, " There are no inns,strictly speaking; but in lieu of them he will light upon threeor four boarding- houses of the most primitive character; and atone of these he must make up his mind to fix his residenceduring his stay in Rapolano.He will find tolerableboard and lodging at about six francs per day; carriages alwaysready to convey him to and from the baths, which are situate inthe plain at a short distance from the village; a billiard- table,and pleasant Italian society, consisting of visitors from Siena,Florence, Leghorn, etc. And by following the advice.of his medical attendant, or of the local physician, he may intothe bargain obtain relief from certain specific and obstinate forms of the innumerable ills that flesh is heir to."•Passing Lucignano (medieval village), we reach Sinalunga(capture of Garibaldi, September 24th, 1867 ) . The touristmay, if he pleases, reach Perugia in 3 hours from this point bythe beautiful Chiana Valley, Cortona, and Lake Trasimene, andthen proceed to Rome by Assisi , etc. Torrita is next reached,and then station for Monte Pulciano ( 6 m. from station;omnibus 1 fr. ) A walled town, with handsome buildings, etc.Church of S. Biagio, by Sangallo. Palazzo Buccelli ,with Roman and Etruscan antiquities. The town of Pienza,where the architecture of the Renaissance can be advantageouslystudied, is 10 m. distant. The railway passes Monte di Cetona(r. ) , Lakes of Monte Pulceano and Chiusi (1. ) , with their unhealthy exhalations. Station Salcini, and then Chiusi.68 CHIUSI.Chiusi is the ancient Clusium , in which " Lars Porsenaof Clusium, by the nine gods he swore,"" That the great house of Tarquin should suffer wrong no more. "It was one of the twelve great cities of Etruria that struggledso long against Rome. The town shows Etruscan, Roman, andmediæval remains, and many inscriptions of early date.Spurious antiquities are manufactured and sold here to largeextent. A number of labyrinthine passages under the townare supposed to be remains of the ancient Etruscan drainage.The Museo Etrusco contains bronzes, vases, mirrors, urnsof terra-cotta, alabaster, etc. , and other interesting objects foundin the tombs in the neighbourhood . Cathedral (S. Mustiola) , is formed chiefly of portions of earlier edifices. Inthe Sacristy is a Mass-book, with beautiful 15th centuryminiatures.In isolated mounds at various short distances round Chiusiare the celebrated Etruscan Tombs, of which at least fourclaim to be the last resting-place of Lars Porsena. A ticket togo the round of these tombs, procurable at the Municipio, costsI fr., the services of the key-keeper as guide 3-4 fr. per day.One of the principal tombs is the Deposito del Poggio Gajelli(3 m. N.E.) , much damaged. It is a chamber of about 20 feet indiameter, with a column supporting the centre, and smallerpassages where once lay the dead. A cornice of pure gold, andother rich treasures, were discovered here. Deposito delSorrano, with stone figures. Others of these tombs have uponthe walls and ceilings, paintings of warlike contests, guestson tiger skins at a banquet, etc. A passing glance willsuffice for the Tombs of the Early Christians, near S.Caterina.Cetona (1 hour's drive S.W.) . Collection of antiquities in Palazzo Terrosi.From Chiusi, Perugia can be reached by diligence. Therailway to Orvieto and Rome runs along the Chiana Valley tostation Carnaiola (or Ficulle), village on left 3 m. , then alongthe Paglia valley to Orvieto. Omnibus to the town, I franc.ORVIETO(Hotel . See Appendix)is 1165 feet above the sea- level; anciently Urbibentum, then, inORVIETO. 69It was the middle ages, Urbs Vetis, whence its present name.once a Guelphic stronghold, and in troublous times often arefuge for popes.The Cathedral is the principal attraction of the town;its beauty being truly astonishing, and its general effect more pleasing than many more elaborate structures. It was commenced in the 13th century, to commemorate the " Miracle ofBolsena," when the doctrine of Transubstantiation was provedto a sceptical priest by the appearance of drops of blood on the consecrated host. Black and white marble in alternate coursesform the main edifice.The Façade ( 1310) , largest existing structure of the kind,with bas-reliefs of scriptural subjects, by pupils of NicolòPisano; Madonna, in bronze; bronze emblems, beautifulmosaics on a golden ground, etc.The Interior, in form of a cross, 291 feet long, 115 feetwide, and I feet high. Observe the richly- carved galleryover the columned arches which cut off the aisles, and thestained glass in the pointed windows.S. Sebastian (r. of chief entrance)S. Pellegrino (l . of دو Fresco. Madonna and St. CatherineMarble FontScalza.Ibid.Gentile da Fabriano.Luca di Giovanni & Sano di Matteo.Statues in front of Pillars ( 12 Apostles) Mosca, Scalza, Toti, &c.Annunciation (on high altar)Life of the Virgin ( Frescoes in Choir)Mocchi.Ugolino d'Ilario & Pietro di Puccio.Inlaid tarsia work ( 14th century) , by · Sienese Artists .Visitation of Mary (marble relief) Moschino (in his 16th year) .Adoration of the Magi ( 99 )Mosca.In the S. Aisle is the Chapel of the Madonna di S. Brizio.Miraculous Image of the Virgin and PietàChrist as Judge, and Prophets (on ceiling)Apostles, Patriarchs, Virgins, Martyrs, etc.(on ceiling)Scalza.Fra Angelico..Signorelli.On the walls are admirable frescoes by Signorelli, representing Predictions of Sybils, etc. , Summons to Judgment, Arrivalof Antichrist, Last Judgment and Hell; Portraits of Cicero,Ovid, and Horace; Seneca, Dante, and Virgil, and the En- tombment of Christ.- 70 ORVIETO.In the N. Aisle is the Capella del Corporale, withsilver shrine (400 lbs . weight) , on which are the Passion andthe Miracle of Bolsena, in enamel . This work is by Ugolinodi Vieri, of Siena, date 1338 .Frescoes, Miracle of BolsenaMadonna (altar on 1.) . ·Ugolini.Filippo Memmi.Opera del Duomo, near the Cathedral, contains,Various Designs for Façade, Pulpit, etc.Reading-desk, with beautiful Carving.Reliquary, byMagdalene .•Frescoes (including Portrait of himself) .Madonna, byEtruscan Terra-cottas (coloured) .•·Ugolino da Siena.L. Signorelli.Ibid.Giovanni Pisano.The Conte Faina, adjacent, has a collection of antiquities.S. Giovanale, some old paintings. S. Domenico,monument to Cardinal di Brago, by Arnolfo ( 1282) . 11Pozzo di S. Patrizio, by Sangallo and Mosca; descent to this celebrated fountain by 250 steps ( franc). Fineviews in proximity. Dilapidated Fortress. PalazzoComunale, etc.The railway from Orvieto follows the Paglia to the Tiber,crosses the latter, and at Orte joins the line from Florence toPerugia. For route from Orte to Rome, see p. 57.The traveller can, if he pleases, vary the route by takingthe road to Rome at Orvieto, passing Bolsena (with its lakeand islands and ruins) , Montefiascone, with cathedral, etc. , andmagnificent views in the neighbourhood, and Viterbo. Or thislatter town can be visited from Orte ( diligence daily ). Viterbohas a cathedral, several churches, and other public buildings.From Viterbo the tourist can make several interesting excursions in the surrounding country, especially to Castel d'Asso,Norchia, the Tiber valley, Toscanella, Bomarzo, MontCiminius, etc.COOK'SMAP OF ROME.Published byTHOMAS Соок AND SON,Ludgate Circus. London.I. B. Piazza di Spagna, Rome.Scale -English Mile 1/4 4/2 200 300 400 500 600 700 800 900 1000 1100 1200 1300W &AK Johnston . Edinburgh/Mile 1400Yards

Rome.(Hotels. -See Appendix. )SPECIAL NOTES AND MEMORANDA.Fêtes and Festivals. -These are not now what theyused to be; many of the great festivals have been discontinued,but on Saints' Days there is always something to be seen andheard in the principal churches, and the tourist will do well toconsult the Calendar in Appendix. The festivals marked withan asterisk (*) are of special interest, being still celebrated with considerable pomp and ceremony.Health of Rome. -The remarks of travellers, a dozenyears ago, as to the unhealthy state of Rome, are happily nolonger applicable. Rome has been cleansed, drained, purified ,and by recent statistics is shown to be one of the healthiestcities in Italy. In case of illness, apply to a medical man at once.Protestant Churches. - Church of England, first houseoutside the Porta del Popolo. Trinity Church ( Evangelical) ,Piazza San Sylvestro. American Church, Via Nazionale.Scotch Presbyterian Church, outside the Porta del Popolo.Apostolic Church ( Rev. James Wall ) , Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina. Italo- American Home and Sunday Schools ( Mrs.Goulds), 106, Via in Arcione. Baptist Church, 27 , Via del Teatro Valle. English Methodist, 64, Via della Scrofa.American Methodist, Piazza Poli. Waldensen Church, 71, Viadei Serpenti.Post Office . -Piazza San Silvestro. Twice daily toEngland, 12 noon and 9 p.m.Omnibuses to various parts of the city, at cheap fares,from Piazza del Popolo, Piazza di Venezia, Piazza di Termini,etc. Fiacres, good and comfortable, will be found all overthe city. For fares consult the tariffa ( in Italian and French) ,to be found in every carriage. For long journeys a special72 ROME.bargain should be made with the driver. When only two orthree days can be spent in Rome, the tourist should hire acarriage by the day, and so arrange his programme as to includein it places of interest farthest away from his hotel.Theatres. -Apollo, near the Pont S. Angelo. Costanzi,behind the Hotel Quirinal. Argentina, Via di Tor Argentina.Valle, in the Sapienza. Metastasio, Via d'Ascanio. Amphitheatre, Umberto Primo, Via Pontifici.Principal Promenades. -Monte Pincio ( Band, Sundays and Thursdays during winter) , Villa Borghese.Money.-Never go out without a good supply of soldi;make it a matter of conscience never to give two when onewill suffice ( 1 lira = 20 soldi = 100 c. ) The fee of half- a- franc( 10 soldi) is ample for an ordinary gratuity.CARRIAGE TARIFF.ONE HORSE.Two HORSES.OPEN. COUPE.The course inside the wallsTo or from the StationMorethan two persons, eachextra ... ...From any point in the cityto a gate* ...0 80 1 001 00 I 401 70 I 90I 00 I 20 1 0 1 401 70 I 90O 200 40 -|- -I 00 I 20 I 20 1 601 90 2 00The hour inside the walls... I 70 2 20 2 00 2 502 50 3 00Every successive quarter ...Outside the walls to thesecond mile-stone +Every successive quarter...45 550 600 650 65 752 202 702 50 3 003 00 3 400550 700 650 750 750 85

• Except Porta del Popolo, Pia, Angelica, Cavalleggeri. To

these gates it is an ordinary course.+ Through the above gates only. There is no tariff outside the other gates.ROME. 73PRINCIPAL SIGHTS AND TIMES FOR SEEINGArch of Titus, p. 102.Arch of Severus, p. 96.THEM.Basilica of Constantine, p. 100.Catacombs of Calixtus, p. 116.Churches. (Visit early in the morning, when they are generally open) . SS . Apostoli, p. 90. S. Clemente, p. 105.S. Croce in Gerusalemme, p. 112. Gesu, p. 125. S.Giovanni in Laterano, p. 106. S. Lorenzo fuore leMura. Maria degli Angeli, p. 122. S. Maria inAra Cœli, p. 95. S. Maria Maggiore, p. 123.S. Mariasopra Minerva, p. 125. S. Maria della pace, p. 126. S.Maria del Popolo, p. 80. S. Maria in Trastevere, p. 153 .S. Onofrio, p. 149. S. Paolo fuori le Mura, p. 127 .S. Peter's, p. 132 . S. Pietro in Vincoli, p. 123. S.Prassede, p. 123. Sistine Chapel, p. 139.Cloaca Maxima, p. 97. (Mill, 5 soldi. )Colosseum, p. 103.Conservatori. (Pictures. ) Daily, 10-2.Forum, p. 96.Forum of Trajan, p. 90.GALLERIES.--Open every day. -Barberini, 12-4 (Thursdays 1-5).Capitol (Entrance lira), 10-3. Colonna, 11—3.(Festas, free. ) Lateran, 10-3. St. Luke, 10-3.Vatican (permission) 9-3 (closed on Saturdays) .Monte di Pietà, 8-3.Monday. -Borghese, 9-3. Corsini (at Easter, every day) ,9-3.Tuesday. -Doria (on festivals the day following) 10—2.Spada (Entrance lira) , 10-3.Wednesday. -Borghese, 9-3. Rospigliosi, 9-3.Thursday. -Corsini (at Easter every day), 9-3. Spada(Entrance lira), 10-3.Friday.-Borghese, 9-3. Doria (on festivals, the dayfollowing) , 10-2.Saturday. Rospigliosi, 9-3. Corsini (at Easter, everyday), 9-3. Spada (Entrance, lira) , 10—3.Farnese, by special permission of the French Ambassador.74 ROME.MUSEUMS.-Open daily.-Capitol, 10-3; lira weekdays, Sundays frée. Lateran, 10-3• Vatican, 9-3, closed onThursdays and Saturdays. Permission required, whichmay be obtained gratis from Monsignor Theodoli, atthe Vatican, from 10 till 1 , or from hotel porters onpayment of a small fee. Kircherian, 9-3, entrance,I lira. Tabularium, 10-3, entrance lira. Tiberino, 10-3, entrance, I lira. Torlonia. Permissionfrom Prince Torlonia, Palazzo Torlonia, PiazzaVenezia.Open on Thursday.-Auditorium of Mecenas, 9—11 ,3-5. Permission at the Capitol. Instruction andEducation, 1-3. Egyptian and Etruscan Museums,and the Gallery of Tapestries at the Vatican, 9-3.Open on Saturday. -Borghesi, winter, 1-4; summer,4-7.On Sundays and Festivals, private galleries and museumsare closed; those under the Municipality are open free.Monte Pincio, pp. 72, 79.Pantheon, p. 124. Daily.Pincio, The, pp. 72, 79.Pyramid of Cestius, 127.Quirinale, p. 116.Theatre of Marcellus, p. 126.Thermæ of Caracella, p. 114.Thermæ of Titus, p. 105.Trajan's Column, p. 90.Via Appia, pp. 115, 154.Villa Albani, p. 130, (Antiquities, Pictures) . Tues. Obtainpermission at Palazzo Torlonia.Villa Borghese, p. 75. Garden daily. Casino, 4-7 summer,12-4 winter.The descriptive pages relating to this ancient city arearranged in the following order. The traveller is supposed toarrive at the railway station, and to proceed to the Strangers'Quarter, near the Porta del Popolo, the neighbourhood of whichis described. He is then conducted along the Corso, to the Forum, Palatine, and Colosseum , etc. A détour is thence madeto the Lateran and its neighbourhood. The description of the partof the city which lies tothe south of the Colosseum is next given,VILLA BORGHESE. -75and then that of the Quirinal and adjoining districts. Theremainder of the city on the right bank of the Tiber, includingthe Pantheon, follows. The Vatican, St. Peter's, Castle ofSt. Angelo, and the Trastevere, or district on the right bank ofthe river, concludes the account.The railway enters Rome through an opening made in thewall of Aurelian, about midway between the Porta Maggioreand the Porta San Lorenzo, on the east side of the city. Immediately within the wall the traveller catches a glimpse of theruins ofthe Temple of Minerva Medica; on the left of the line,and just before the station is reached, a part of the ancient wallof Servius Tullius (built 564-60 B.C. ) is seen. Alarge portion ofthis wall was discovered when the excavations for the railwaywere being made, but it was destroyed, to make way for the iron road.The Railway Station is on the Esquiline Hill; and on leaving it the traveller comes out into a large open space, called thePiazza di Termini, which occupies part of the site of theBaths of Diocletian, the ruins of which are on the right.In the Piazza is a fine jet of water called the Fountain of theAcqua Marcia, the water of which is brought by aqueduct sixtymiles. At the further extremity of the Piazza is theFountain of the Termini.This fountain is divided into three niches. The centre contains a statue of Moses Striking the Rock, by P. Scavezzi, whofoolishly boasted that his Moses would surpass the Moses ofMichael Angelo. The niche to the right contains an alto-reliefby Flam. Vacca, of Gideon Watching his Soldiers Drinking.The alto-relief in the left niche represents Aaron Leading theIsraelites to Drink. The lions which ornament the basin aremodern. The water which supplies this fountain is brought inan aqueduct twenty-two miles long, constructed by order of Sixtus V., between 1585-87 .Outside the Porta del Popolo is theVilla Borghese,with its gardens. The latter are open Tues. , Thurs., Sat.Sun., from 4 to 7 in summer, and 12 to 4 in winter. Th76ROME.collection of ancient sculpture in the Casino, erected in thegrounds, is shown on Saturdays only. The gardens are ornamented with statues and grottoes, and contain several finewalks, from which there are good views of the city and suburbs.The Casino was built by Vansanzio, for Cardinal Borghese,nephew of Paul V. ( 1605-21 ) . It formerly contained a collection of paintings, but they were removed by Napoleon I. to Paris.THE GRAND HALL.The vaulted ceiling was painted by Mario Rossi. The chiefsubject represents the arrival of Camillus at the Capitol. Thefloor is laid with exceedingly interesting mosaics, representinggladiators and scenes in the Amphitheatre, found in 1834among the remains of an ancient villa at La Giostra, near theTorre Nuova on the Via Labicana, above Tusculum.SECOND ROOM (SALOON) .3. Colossal head of Isis.4. Dancing Faun (over Bacchic relief).5. Colossal head of Muse.7. Tiberius.8. Meleager.9. Augustus.Io. Priestess.11. Bacchus and Ampelus.14. Hadrian.18. Diana.THIRD ROOM (right) .In centre Juno Pronuba.4. Ceres.5. Venus Genetrix.8. Sacrificial Prayer to Cupid.II. Rape of Cassandra ( relief) .16. Draped statue.20. Greek tomb relief.FOURTH ROOM.Fighting Amazon on horseback (centre of room) .4. Sarcophagus with the achievements of Hercules.6. Bust of Hercules.7. Pygmæa.VILLA BORGHESE. 779. Statue of Hercules.15. Hercules holding the distaff.21. Venus.FIFTH ROOM.Apollo in centre.3. Scipio Africanus.4. Metamorphosis of Daphne.6. Venus and Cupid.7. Bust of a Bacchante.8. Melpomene, the Muse of Tragedy.10. Clio, the Muse of History.13. Seated statue of Anacreon.14. Lucilla.16. Terpsichore.18. Polyhymnia, the Muse of Music.In the corridor leading to the great gallery, there is a veryfine bust of Cardinal Scipio Borghese, by Bernini.THE GREAT GALLERY. (SIXTH ROOM. )The subjects on the vault, painted by Domenico de Angelis,illustrate the story of Acis and Galatea. Around the gallery isa series of modern busts of the first eleven Cæsars, the headssculptured in porphyry, and set in cuirasses of veined alabaster.În the centre is a porphyry bath, said to have been found in the Mausoleum of Hadrian.8. Diana.22. Bacchus.29. Statue of a Satyr.2. Boy with bird.3. Bacchus.4. Captive boy.SEVENTH ROOм.7. The Hermaphrodite.13. Roman portrait- bust.14. Head of a youth.16. Female bust.EIGHTH ROOM.Statue of Tyrtæus (centre) .2. Athene.78ROME.4. Apollo.5. Lucilla (?) , Colossal bust.10. Leda and the Swan, found in 1823 near Frascati.15. Esculapius and Telesephorus.NINTH ROOM.1. Satyr on a Dolphin.3. Isis.4. Paris.8. Ceres with drapery, in black marble.13. Venus.16. Bacchante.19. Hadrian.TENTH ROOM.1. Dancing Satyr, discovered in 1832 in the remains of anancient villa at the 32nd mile on the Via Salara.2. Ceres.3. Mercury Liricinus.4. Dancing Satyr.9. Pluto with Cerberus.14. Seated statue of Periander.19. Bacchus enthroned.THE GALLERY.In the middle of the room are three very fine works byBernini. No. 2, the group of ÆNEAS AND ANCHISES, is saidto have been executed by him when he was only fifteen yearsof age. No. 1 , the group of APOLLO AND DAPHNE, his finestwork, was executed when in his eighteenth year. No. 3 is thestatue of DAVID slinging the stone at Goliath. Four marblevases, with subjects representing the Seasons, are by Laboureur.FIRST ROOM.Statue of Innocence holding the Dove1. Bust of Paul V.2. Bust of Cardinal Scipio Borghese27. Portrait of Marc Antonio Borghese, father of Paul V.7. Portrait of Paul V.8. PortraitsAurelii.Bernini.Bernini.Guido.M. A. da Caravaggio.Scipione Gaetani.VILLA BORGHESE. 79SECOND ROOM,contains a number of pictures by Marchetti, representingpageants of the seventeenth century, ruins, and architectural views.THIRD ROOM,a fine ceiling painted by Gagnereau; subject a nymph surprisedby a satyr.FOURTH ROOM,contains the celebrated statue of VENUS VICTRIX, by Canova,for which Pauline Buonaparte, the sister of Napoleon the First,sat, and of whom it is a portrait.FIFTH ROOM.In the centre is a statue of a Bacchante, by Tadolini, 1842.The vaulted ceiling was painted by Novelli, with subjectsillustrating the fable of Cupid and Psyche. The landscapepaintings on the walls are by Jean Francois Bloemer, of Antwerp, called in Italy Orrizonte.THE SIXTH AND SEVENTH ROOMScontain a number of paintings of no particular merit. The name of the artist is attached to each.Returning to the city, the visitor enters by thePorta del Popolo,which occupies almost the same site as the ancient Porta Flaminia. The gate was built in the reign of Pius IV.(1559-66), by Vignola, and was subsequently ornamented on the inner side by Bernini. Statues of St. Peter and St. Paul onthe outside are by Mochi.The gate opens upon the Piazza del Popolo. Theobelisk in the centre was brought from Egypt by Augustus,and placed in its present position by Sixtus V. in 1589. It is78 feet high, but the height to the top of the cross is 120 feet.To the left of the Piazza is the Pincian Hill, which hasbeen terraced and planted, and is now the fashionable drive.Three principal streets terminate in the Piazza. That to theleft, the Via Babuino, leads to the Piazza di Spagna. Thecentre street is the Corso, which passes through the middle of80 ROME.the city to the Forum and Capitol. On the right is the ViaRipetta, which passes close to the Tiber.On the left of the Piazza is theChurch of Santa Maria del Popolo ,built on the traditional site of Nero's tomb. A chapel wasfounded here by Paschal II . ( 1099-1118) , to exorcise evilspirits which haunted the place. The present church was builtby Sixtus IV. ( 1471-84) . It consists of a nave, aisles, andtransept, with an octagonal dome. On entering , the visitorshould turn to the first chapel to the right, which has a finevaulted ceiling, and an altarpiece by Pinturicchio, and handsome monuments to two cardinals.The second chapel belongs to the Cibo family; it is richlydecorated with marble. The Assumption over the altar is by C. Maratta.The third and fourth chapels contain frescoes by Pinturicchio. On the wall of the right transept is the monument of Cardinal Podocantharus.The vault of the choir is painted by Pinturicchio. Thechoir contains handsome monuments to two cardinals, nephewsof Julius II. , executed by Sansovino. Over the high altar is apicture of the Virgin, one of many attributed to St. Luke.In the chapel to the left of the high altar is an Assumptionby A. Caracci; the paintings on the walls are by M. A. daCaravaggio.The left transept has a monument to Cardinal B. Lonati.Along the left aisle are chapels corresponding to those on theopposite side of the church. The last chapel but one belongsto the Chigi family. It was built from designs by Raphael,who modelled the statue of Jonah, and made the drawings forthe mosaics of the Cupola and the altarpiece; the latter was,however, completed by Sebastiano del Piombo and Francesco Salviati The statues of Daniel and Habakkuk are by Bernini;that of Elijah is by Lorenzetto.Martin Luther, when in Rome, lived in the AugustinianMonastery belonging to this church.EnteringThe Corso,the visitor passes, on the right, the Church of SantaMaria de Miracoli, and on the left, the Church ofTHE CORSO. 81Santa Maria di Montesanto, built in the seventeenthcentury.The Corso, which is the principal street of Rome, followsthe ancient Via Flaminia. In the first street on the left, theVia della Fontanella, lived John Gibson, the great Englishsculptor, in the block of houses numbered 4, 5, 6, and 7. AtNo. 518 in the Corso is the Russian Embassy, and Goethe,the German poet, lived opposite at No. 18. Further down isthe Church of the Gesu e Maria on the left, and on theright, the Church of San Giacomo degl' Incurabili,with a hospital. In the side street, a tablet on the wall of ahouse marks the studio of Canova.Turning to the right, down the Via dei Pontefici, thevisitor enters the Palazzo Corea (No. 57) , and reaches the ruins of the Mausoleum of Augustus; founded byAugustus Cæsar, B.C. 28. The young Marcellus, whose praises were sung by Virgil, was buried here, B.C. 23 , and afterwards insuccession Marcus Agrippa, son- in-law of Augustus, Octavia, hissister, wife of Mark Antony, Augustus himself, Tiberius, andother Emperors, down to Nerva, besides members ofthe Imperial family. The Mausoleum was closed after Nerva's death, A.D.98; when Hadrian erected a mausoleum of the same size, now the Castle of St. Angelo, on the other side of the Tiber.The mausoleum was ransacked by Alaric, A.D. 409. Duringthe middle ages it was fortified by the Colonna family, and in1354 the body of Rienzi was burned here, after having beenhung by the feet two days in front of the Church of St. Mar- cellus. The Mausoleum is now used as a circus.Returning to the Corso, the visitor soon reaches a smallpiazza, on the right of which is the richly-decorated domedChurch of San Carlo, formerly the Church of St. Nicolò,but after its reconstruction in 1612, dedicated to St. CarloBorromeo, Cardinal Archbishop of Milan.A short distance from this church, in the Via di Fontanella,is the magnificent Palazzo Borghese. As catalogues areprovided in each room, a lengthened description is not necessary.A short street on the right of the Corso leads to the Piazzaand Church of St. Lorenzo in Lucina. The latteroccupies the site of an ancient temple of Juno Lucina; it contains a Crucifixion by Guido Reni, and the grave of NicholasPoussin, to whom a monument was erected by Chateaubriand.A tablet on the house, No. 167 in the Corso, marks the siteof a Triumphal Arch erected to Antoninus Pius,682 ROME.It was thrown down by order of Alexander VII. in 1665,because it obstructed the races in the Corso during Carnival.The alto- reliefs are preserved in the Capitol; two of the columnsare in the Church of St. Agnese, and two others in the CorsiniChapel in St. John's Lateran.The next turning on the left, Via delle Convertite, leads tothe Piazza San Silvestro, on the north side of which are thePost and Telegraph Offices. The building was formerly theConvent of San Silvestro, and the fresco decorations of thevestibules and porticoes are well worth seeing.Just before reaching the Piazza Colonna is the Palaceof the Chigi Family, which contains a valuable library,and a small collection of sculptures and paintings. In thecentre of the Piazza is the Column of Marcus Aurelius,erected A.D. 174. It is covered with bas- reliefs, one of whichrepresents the legend of the thundering legion. The bronzestatue of the Emperor was thrown down, it is believed, in 663 ,and the summit is now occupied by a statue of St. Peter,erected by Sixtus V. in 1589. The column is 125 feet high,and is formed of 28 blocks of marble.On the south of the piazza is the small Church of SanBartolommeo de Bergamaschi, and on the side of the Corso isthe Palazzo Piombino.Behind the Stablimento Colonna is the Piazza di MonteCitorio, with an Obelisk in the centre. It was broughtfrom Heliopolis by Augustus, and set up here as a gnomon foran enormous sundial. The obelisk was thrown down, andlong hidden, but was excavated in 1748, carefully repaired,and again erected in 1792. It is 72 feet high, and from theground to the summit measures 96 feet.On the north side of the Piazza is the Palazzo di MonteCitorio, erected in 1650 by Bernini. It was formerly usedfor law courts, but is now the Italian Chamber ofDeputies. The debates, to which the public are admitted,are held in a temporary building in the courtyard. The seatsare arranged in a semicircle around the president's raised plat- form; this faces a long table, at which the ministers sit. Abovethe president's chair is a bust of the King; at the sides are inscribed the Plebiscites which united the It..lian States.The Via de Pietra, on the right of the Corso, leads into thePiazza di Pietra, on the left of which are the ruins of the Basilica of Antóninus Pius, or, as some suppose, theTemple of Neptune, built into the wall of the Custom-CHURCH OF ST. MARCELLUS. 83house. Each of the eleven columns is 4 feet 2 inches indiameter, and 39 feet 6 inches high.Opposite the Via de Pietra, the Via della Muratte leads tothe Fountain of Trevi, the finest fountain in Rome,completed in 1762. In the centre is a figure of Oceanus on acar, by P. Bracci. Behind the car are statues of Fertility andSalubrity, and above it bas-reliefs and statues of the four Seasons. The water, which is the best in Rome, is supplied bythe Aqua Virgine, first brought to Rome by M. Agrippa, B.C. 27,and subsequently repaired by Pope Nicholas V. in 1450.The Palazzo Sciarra,No. 239, Via del Corso. Visitors are not admitted to thisgallery without a permesso. The principal pictures areViolin Player," by Raphael, dated 1518; "Vanity andModesty, by B. Luini; " Gamblers," by Michael Angelo da Caravaggio; " S. Sebastian, " by Perugino.Near the Palazzo Sciarra, a Triumphal Arch, erected byClaudius, formerly spanned the Via Flaminia. It has, however,long since disappeared.Opposite the Simonetti Palace ( No. 307) is theChurch of St. Marcellus,Erected in the sixteenth century by G. Sansovino. The façadeis by C. Fontana.The third chapel on the right belongs to the English familyof Clifford, and contains a monument to Thomas CardinalWeld, a Dorsetshire gentleman , who, upon the death of his wife,took orders in the Roman Church, and subsequently becameone of the few English cardinals of this century.The fourth chapel has some frescoes by Pierino del Vagaand Daniello da Volterra. Here is preserved a wooden crucifix ,brought from the old church, which was destroyed in 1519.Cardinal Gonsalvi, Secretary of State to Pius VII . , is buried inthis chapel.The opposite chapel, the fourth on the left, belongs to theFrangipani family. The altar- piece, the subject of which is St.Paul's conversion, is by F. Zuccheri. Above the door of thechurch is a fresco of the Crucifixion, by G. B. Ricci, and to theright of it the monument of Cardinal Michieli.At the corner of the Via Lata is the Church of SantaMaria in Via Lata, built, according to tradition, on the84 ROME.site of St. Paul's "hired house, " in which he dwelt two wholeyears. On the left of the portico, a staircase descends to threerooms, in which it is alleged St. Paul taught, and wrote several of his Epistles. Here, too, St. Luke is said to havewritten the Acts of the Apostles, and to have painted his traditional pictures.The church was known as St. Cyriacus in the fourth century. It was rebuilt in 700, and again in 1485 , by Pope Innocent VIII. , who at the same time destroyed a Triumphal Archto Gordian, which spanned the Via Flaminia. The façade is oflater date. Over the high altar is a portrait of the Virgin,attributed to St. Luke.Close to the church is thePalazzo Doria,with two façades. The gallery is open from 10 to 2 on Tuesdays and Fridays. (On Festivals the day following. )The pictures in this collection are frequently changed andre- numbered; we shall therefore only give a list of the principal paintings, and as a list with numbers and the subject isexhibited in each room, visitors will experience no difficulty.The collection is divided into ten rooms and four galleries, andthey contain the following paintings:-The DelugeThe angel teaching St. Augustinethe impossibility of understanding the mystery of theTrinityLandscapeRoman CharityThe Madonna of the SwallowTemptations of St. AnthonySt. John the Baptist in the DesertMarriage of the Virgin Pope St. Sylvester before Maximin II.The Virgin (a triptych)Scarsellino.Gaspar Poussin.· • Poussin.· · Valentin.Rondinello.Andrea Mantegna.Guercino.Pisanello.Pisellino.Taddeo de Bartolo da Siena.The AnnunciationBirth of the VirginSt. Agnes on the Pile• Filippo Lippi.Pisanello.Guercino.The MagdalenThe Madonna (not numbered)Woman with a book (not numbered)A copyfrom Titian.Sassoferrato.Murillo.PALAZZO DORIA. 85Erminia and Tancred woundedSt. JosephHoly Family with St. Catherine· · Guercino.Guercino.Titian (early manner) .Centre of the room, Jacob wrestling withthe angelMadonna and ChildPortrait of a Boy (unfinished)School of Bernini.Carlo Maratta.Vandyke (?).Fire in the haylofts near S. Maria in Cos- medinFalls of Terni•Rocks on a Seashore .Belisarius in the DesertMassacre of the InnocentsAlexis de Marchis.Kuins of a Temple with the Pyramid of Caius Cestius • •Eighteenth Century view of the CampoVaccino (the Forum) , looking towards the PalatineEighteenth Century view from a point near the Colosseum •Infant Bacchus, statue in Rosso Antico.Descent from the CrossSt. SebastianFruit Piece•Fruit, Flowers, and Dead GameAssumption of the VirginMercury stealing the Oxen of ApolloThe Flight into EgyptPortrait of his Wife .Portrait of MacchiavelliThe Water MillA PietàThe Temple of ApolloPortraitPortraitAdoration of the MagiPortrait of Lucretia BorgiaDiana HuntingThe Entombment •Portrait of Catherine de la VannozzaOrizzonte.Salvator Rosa.Salvator Rosa.Mazzolino.Viviani.Viviani.Viviani.. Cecchino Salvati.Ludovico Caracci.Zenardi.Spadino.Annibale Caracci.Claude Lorrain.Annibale Caracci.Titian.Bronzino.Claude Lorrain.Annibale Caracci.Claude Lorrain.Mazzolo.Giorgione.Annibale Caracci.Paolo Veronese.Claude Lorrain.Annibale Caracci.Dosso Dossi.The Mystic Marriage of Sta. Catherine of AlexandriaSt. Louis, King of France, giving alms •Garofolo.Mantegna.86 ROME.A Battle •The Temptations of St. AnthonyVirgin and Child, with St. Francis of Assisi and St. PaulPortrait of a Widow 66 ""' Air (one of the Four Seasons)Abraham's Sacrifice" Earth ""Portrait of Prince PamphiliPortrait of his Wife . •Herodias, with Head of St. John the BaptistBorgognone.Mantegna.Francia.Vandyke.Breughel.Titian.Breughel.Vandyke.Rubens.Pordenone.Preacher of the Apostolic Chapel Rubens.Portrait of Jane II . , Queen of Naples Leonardo da Vinci.Magdalen.Titian."Water"Breughel.Birth of our Lord, with St. John the Baptist, St.Joseph, St. Francis of Assisi, and St. Madeleine Benvenuti."Fire "Breughel.Glory Crowning Valour: a sketch Correggio.The Garden of Eden Breughel.A Village Wedding Teniers.Portraits of Titian and his WifePassage of the Red Sea, painted on alabaster byJudith, with the Head of HolophernesHoly Family, with St. Francis of Assisi andSt. Bernardino of Siena .MagdalenHoly Family Portrait of Marco PoloHoly Family ·The Three Ages of Man Return of the Prodigal SonRest, during the Flight into EgyptThe Meeting of Elizabeth and Mary .Cupids WrestlingThe Aldobrandini Marriage ( copy from the fresco in the Vatican)Infant Jesus SleepingAngel Playing on a TambourineSculptures, etc.•Titian.Tempesta.Giorgio Vasari.Garofolo.Annibale Caracci.Sassoferrato.Titian.Andrea del Sarto.Titian.Guercino.Claude Lorrain.Garofolo.Francesco Gessi.Nicholas Poussin..· Guido Reni.Paolo Veronese.Sarcophagus, with Meleager, hunting the Caledonian boar.Sarcophagus, with the story of Marsyas.PALAZZO DORIA.87Statue of the Indian Bacchus.Bust of Innocent X.Sarcophagus, with Diana and Endymion.Ulysses escaping from the Cave of Polyphemus byclinging to the belly of a sheep.Mithraic Sacrifice.Centaur, found at Albano.Three Chandeliers of old Venetian glass.Bernini.Bust of Innocent X., 1645-55 , in porphyry, with bronzed head.Bronze water vessel of the fourth century, with subjects uponit representing the story of David and the Shunamitewoman.The Nile, in basalt.Mask of a Faun, in bronze.Two glass cases, containing antique statuettes, strigils, mirrors,rings, buckles, fibulas, &c.Two tables of verde antique.Stag Hunt . Breughel.Table Covered with Fruit and Flowers Breughel.The Terrestrial Paradise Breughel.Bust of Donna Olympia Pamphili Maldacchini Algardi.Bust of Prince Philip Andrew Doria Pamphili.The Gallery of Mirrors.This gallery is ornamented with a number of mirrors inrichly gilt frames, with an antique statue between each.Over the fireplace, notice a piece of curious tapestry, representing the Rape of the Sabines.THE CABINETcontains a few of the finest works. Not numbered.Two headsPortrait of Admiral Andrea DoriaThe MisersDescent from the CrossPortrait of Innocent X. (1644-5)Raphael.Sebastiano del Piombo.. Quintin Matsys.John Memling.Velasquez. ·The Palazzo Saviata is opposite the Dorian Palace,and the Corso ends at the Piazza di Venezia. On theright is the Palazzo di Venezia, now the residence ofthe Austrian Ambassader. The stone of which it is built88 ROME.was taken from the Colosseum.. The palace was given byPius IV. to the Republic of Venice, as a residence for theirambassador at the Papal Court. It subsequently became.Austrian property, and continued so by special reservation at the cession of Venezia in 1866.From the north-east corner of the Piazza di Venezia theVia San Romualda leads to thePalazzo Colonna,begun by Pope Martin V. ( 1417-31 ), a member of the Colonnafamily. The palace occupies three sides of a large courtyard,and contains a picture- gallery, open daily from 11 to 3.FIRST ROOM.Virgin of the CherriesVirgin and Child Lippi.Botticelli.Landscape Albani.Virgin and Child, with Sr. Elizabeth and St.John the Baptist • Luini.Portrait of a Young Man Giovanni Sanzio (the fatherof Raphael).Allani.Portrait of Maria Mancini Colonna Netscher.Landscape, with SheepMeeting of Jacob and EsauHoly Family .Moses with the Tables of the LawResurrection of Christ and of the DeadTHE THRONE ROOM.Portrait of Pope Pius IX.Two beautiful Venetian Lustres.THIRD ROOM.Rubens.Parmeggianino.Guercino.Pietro da Cortona.Virgin giving the Scapular to St. Simon Stock.(Over the door)Portrait of Panvinius, the HistorianRape of Europa Guardian AngelSt. Jerome Praying in the DesertScarsellino.Titian..Francesco Albani.Guercino.Spagna.PALAZZO COLONNA. 89Tintoretto.. Annibale Caracci.Salviati.Man Playing on the ClavecinMan Eating SoupResurrection of LazarusPortrait of Lorenzo Colonna• •Holbein.PortraitSt. Carlo BorromeoHoly Family and St. JeromePaolo Veronese.Daniel Crespi.Bonifazio da Venezia.On the ceiling, the Apotheosis of Martin V.(Colonna) , 1417.31 .FOURTH ROOM.Vestibule to Grand Hall. Magnificent cabinet of preciousstones (seventeenth century) on left; ebony cabinet on right,with bas- reliefs in ivory.GRAND HALL.Vault painted in fresco by John Pane Scot, assisted byBernascona and Gior. and Fran. da Luca. Mirrors painted by Mario de' Fiore.St. Jerome studying the ScripturesFamily Group, portraitsAssumption of the Virgin •Portrait of Federico ColonnaSt. Jerome in the Desert The Roman Daughter .·Descent of our Saviour into Hell, and theLast JudgmentThe Temptation ." Ecce hom*o"Portrait of Charles Colonna on HorsebackThe Colonna Family, 1581 , portraits•Our Saviour at Supper with Simon thePharisee •St. John the Baptist preaching in the Desert .St. Irene removing the Arrows from St. Sebastian .Telemachus in the Island of CalypsoVirgin protecting a Child against the DevilSt. Francis of Assisi praying .Martyrdom of St. Catherine of Alexandria••Spagnoletto.Annibale Caracci.Rubens.Subtermans.Guercino.Bernardo Strozzi.Allori.Salviati.Francisco Allani.Vandyke.Scipione Gaetani.Bassano.Salvator Rosa.Cantarini.Nicholas Poussin.Nicolò Alunno.· · Guido Reni.. Salmeggia.90 ROME.SIXTH ROOM.The frescoes of the vault, painted about the year 1700,represent the Apotheosis of Marc Antonio Colonna, and hisintroduction into Olympus by Hercules.Portrait of Marc Antonio ColonnaPortrait of Marc Antonio ColonnaPortrait of Victoria Colonna, the PoetessPortrait of Cardinal Pompeo ColonnaPortrait of Stephen Colonna .Tobias and the FishPortrait of Isabella ColonnaVirgin and Child, with St. Peter presenting the DonorPortrait of Lucretia Colonna .Virgin and Child with St. Jerome and Sta.Lucia .Temptations of St. AnthonyVenus and Cupid Surprised by a SatyrAdoration of the Holy Spirit Portrait of a Page, with DogPortrait of Pope Pius V.Portrait of Francesco ColonnaNovelli.Scipione Gaetani.Muxiano.Lorenzo Lotti.Cagliari.Tintoretto.Novelli.Palma Vecchio.Vandyke.Titian.Kranach.Bronzino.Moretto da Brescia.Tintoretto.Scipione Gaetani.O'Hale.The Basilica of the Apostles (St. Philip and St.James) is in the Piazza Colonna. It was founded by Pelagius I.(555-59), was subsequently restored by various Popes, andentirely rebuilt during the last century. The portico wasdesigned by Baccio Pintelli, and the rest of the building byF. Fontana. At the end of the Portico on the right is a basrelief of an eagle, from the Forum of Trajan. At the end of the left aisle of the church is a monument to Clement XIV.(1769-75) by Canova.The other Palaces in the Piazza are the Palazzo Odescalchi, with a handsome façade by Bernini, the PalazzoValentini, the Palazzo Ruffi, and the Palazzo Savo- relli. In the latter palace, the old Pretender, or, as his friendscalled him , James III. , died in 1769.A narrow street leads from the Piazza Colonna past the Church of Saints Vincentius and Anastatius to theForum and Column of Trajan.Excavations made here in 1812 exposed part of the site of jan's Forum . The grey granite columns belonged to theCAPITOLINE MUSEUM: 91Basilica Ulpia, and the line of the aisles can be clearly traced.The column is 128 feet high, and is composed of 32 hugeblocks of marble. The bas- reliefs represent incidents of thewar against the Dacians. Formerly the Emperor's statuecrowned the summit, but it is now replaced by a statue of St.Peter. An inscription on the column states that in order tomake room for his forum, Trajan removed a neck of land ofthe height of the column which formerly connected the Capi- toline and Quirinal Hills.At the further end of the Piazza are the Churches of S.Bernardo and Santa Maria di Loreto. The lattercontains a statue of Sta. Susunna by Fiammingo.From the North- west corner of the Piazza, the Via SanMarco leads to the Basilica of S. Marco, which adjoins atthe back the Palazzo di Venetia. The Basilica was originallyerected by Pope Mark I. (336-37) , and subsequently rebuilt.Several ancient Sarcophagi and inscriptions are built into the Iwalls of the vestibule. Above the door is a bas-relief of St.Mark. The pillars in front of the pilasters of the nave are ofSicilian jasper. The first altarpiece to the right represents theResurrection, by Palma Giovane. In the third chapel the Adoration of the Magi, by C. Maratta. In the Chapel of theSacrament Pope Mark, by C. Crivelli . Beneath the high altar arerelics of St. Mark the Evangelist, St. Mark the Pope, and others.Close to the door of the church are the remains of a statueof Isis, called by the populace Madame Lucrezia.The second turning on the left from the Piazza leads to theCapitol, the ascent to which can be made by three differentpaths. That in the centre leads directly to the Piazza di Campidoglio, the three sides of which are occupied by buildingsdesigned by M. Angelo. On the right is the Palazzo dei Conservatore, on the left the Capitoline Museum of Sculpture, and in the middle the Palazzo dei Senatori. In the centre of thePiazza is the gilt bronze Equestrian Statue of MarcusAurelius, which originally stood in the Forum , and wasplaced in its present position by M. Angelo.The Capitoline Museum of Sculpture.A number of works occupy the courtyard and corridors;the most important being the recumbent statue of Oceanus andthe Cyprian Mars. On the walls of the staircase are panelscontaining fragments of a plan of Rome made in the time ofSeptimius Severus.92 ROME.HALL OF THE GLADIATOR.1. Dying Gladiator ( in the middle of the room) .7. Lycian Apollo, found near the sulphur stream on the road to Tivoli.5. Ariadne; a bust of great beauty.4. Amazon.3. Atys, the Sun God; bust; popularly called Alexander the Great.16. Bust of Brutus, the murderer of Cæsar.15. Isis.II. Flora (?); portrait statue of a Roman lady, found, in 1744,at Hadrian's Villa.12. Antonius; found at Hadrian's Villa in the time of ClementXII., 1730-40.10. Faun; an ancient copy of the celebrated statue byPraxiteles.9. Girl Protecting a Dove; portrait statue.8. Zeno, the Founder of the Stoic School of Philosophy.HALL OF THE FAUN.1. Faun of Rosso Antico ( in the middle of the room) .3. Sarcophagus, with the story of Endymion.8. Boy with a Scenic Mask.16. Boy playing with a Goose.19. Bacchante; head.21. Ariadne; head.18. Sarcophagus; subject of reliefs the battle between theAmazons and the Athenians, led by Theseus.HALL OF THE CENTAURS.1. Jupiter, in black marble.2. Young Centaur.3. Colossal Infant Hercules, sculptured in a rare and valuablevariety of green basalt, which has the qualities of touch- stone.4. Aged Centaur.5. Esculapius, in black marble.6. Faun.8. Minerva.9. Trajan.13. Hadrian.CAPITOLINE MUSEUM. 9319. Wounded Amazon.20. Apollo.25. Antoninus Pius: colossal bust.26. Diana.27. Hunter.28. Harpocrates.32. Marcus Aurelius.33. Amazon (copy of No. 19) .HALL OF THE PHILOSOPHERS, &c.Marcus Marcellus (in the midde of the room) .1. Virgil (?).4, 5, 6. Socrates.9. Aristides (?).16. Marcus Agrippa.19. Theophrastus (?).20. Marcus Aurelius.21. Diogenes the Cynic (?) .23. Thales.25. Theon of Smyrna.26. Apuleius (?) .27. Pythagoras (?) .30. Aristophanes.31, 32. Demosthenes.33, 34. Sophocles.35. Aulus Persius Flaccus.36. Anacreon (? ) .37. Hippocrates (?) .41 , 42, 43. Euripides.44, 45, 46. Homer.49. P. Cornelius Scipio Afri- canus.51. Pompey the Great.52. Cato of Utica.53. Aristotle.59. Herodotus.60. Thucydides.61. Eschines.62. Epicurus.63. Epicurusand Metrodorus;a double Hermes.67. Agathon.70. Antisthenes.72. Julian the Apostate.75. Cicero (?) .76. Terence.82. Eschylus.HALL OF THE EMPERORS.Agrippina (statue in the middle of the room).1. Julius Cæsar.2. Augustus.4, 5. Tiberius.3. Marcellus.9. Germanicus.II. Caligula.12. Claudius.13. Messalina.15, 16. Nero.17. Poppea Sabina.18. Galba.19. Otho.20. Vitellius.21. Vespasian.22. Titus.23. Julia, daughter of Titus.In the small cabinet between the Hall of the Emperors andthe Gallery is The Venus of the Capitol.94 ROME.GALLERY.5. Cupid, Antique copy from that in bronze by Lisippo.6 and 61. Silenus.8. Old Drunken Bacchante.10. Octagon Urn, beautifully sculptured.16. Psyche.20. Psyche.26. Augustus.Between 31 and the window is a large vase found in 1680 near the tomb of Cecilia Metella.46. Diana Lucifera.62. Septimius Severus.63. Marcus Aurelius.64. Roman Matron, with hair arranged similar to that of thehead of Faustina, wife of Antoninus Pius.HALL OF THE Dovescontains several unknown busts.13. Sarcophagus.49. Diana of Ephesus.81. Large weight, well preserved, with antique handle.Descending the staircase The Hall of Inscriptions is reached.Picture Gallery.FIRST LARGE ROOM.2. L'Anima Beata6. St. Cecilia7. Triumph of Dionysius9. Magdalen13. St. John the Baptist14. Triumph of Flora .16. Magdalen20. Cumaan Sibyl26. Magdalen27. Presentation in the Temple30. Holy Family .34. Persic Sibyl36. Expulsion of HagarGuido.Romanelli.Pietro da Cortona.Albani.Guercino.Nicholas Poussin.Guido.Domenichino.Tintoretto.Fra Bartolommeo diSan Marco.Garofalo.Guercino.Francesco Mola.CHURCH OF ARA CŒLI. 9538. Holy Family .52. Madonna and Child, with St. Nicholasand St. Martin .63. Adoration of the Magi·70. Madonna and Child, with St. Francis ofAssisi, St. Joseph, St. Jerome, and St.Schiavone.Sandro Botticelli.Scarsellino.Catherine of Alexandria • Copyfrom Paul Veronese.78. Virgin enthroned between St. Peter, St.Paul, St. John the Baptist, St Andrew,and St. John the EvangelistThe visitor should now cross the Piazza toThe Church of Ara Coli,Francia.which is believed to occupy the site of the Temple of JupiterCapitolinus. The church was erected in the tenth century,but since that time it has been frequently altered , and is almostentirely rebuilt. The magnificent ceiling ( 1571 ) is in commemoration of the Battle of Lepanto. The pavement, whichis of varied materials, slopes upwards from the principal door.Twenty-two columns taken from ancient buildings separate thenave and aisles. On the third column to the right is an inscription, A CVBICVLO AVGVSTORVM . The pulpits areornamented with rich Cosmati Mosaics.The walls of the first chapel on the right of the principalentrance are covered with frescoes, by Pinturicchio, illustrating the life of St. Bernardino of Siena, to whom the chapel isdedicated. The paintings on the vault are by F. di Castello andL. Signorelli. At the end of the right transept are some finethirteenth century monuments to the Savelli family. Opposite,in the left transept, is another monument of the same period .In the transept is the Holy Chapel in the form of an altar.It marks the spot where, in the temple of Jupiter Capitolinus,Augustus erected an altar to the first- born of God, whence the church has its name.The chapels of the left aisle contain frescoes by various masters. Those on the vaulting of the seventh chapel are byNicolò da Pesaro. This chapel is dedicated to St. Anthony ofPadua, who is invoked in moments of peril. The votivepictures hung up are very curious, and in some cases horrible.The eighth chapel is closed except at Christmas, when arepresentation of the Nativity is arranged here. The chapel iscalled the Præsepio, and in the Nativity the celebrated Bam-96 ROME.bino a quaint figure of the infant Christ, said to have beenpainted by St. Luke—is exhibited. At other times the Bambino is kept in the Sacristy, where it can be seen on application to the Sacristan.It is said that the idea of writing the Decline and Fall of theRoman Empire occurred to Gibbon while visiting this church.Another story says the idea occurred to him in the Colosseum.Returning to the Piazza, a flight of steps on the oppositeside leads through an archway on that part of the Capitol nowcalled Monte Caprino, to a row of houses, through one of which(No. 130), the custodian will conduct the visitor to the Tarpeian Rock, from whose summit Roman criminals wereflung.A road leads from the bottom of the steps of Monte Ca- prino to theForum Romanum, *the centre of Ancient Rome, lying at the foot of the Capitolineand Palatine Hills. In descending from the Capitol the visitorwill see on his left the ruins of three Temples. That behindthe Arch of Septimius Severus is all that remains of the Templeof Concord, built by Tiberius, A.D. 7 , on the site of an olderbuilding erected by Camillus 400 years earlier.The three Corinthian columns to the left are the ruins ofthe Temple of Vespasian, erected by his son Titus, andrestored by Septimius Severus, as a few letters of the remaining inscription testify.Beyond the Temple of Vespasian stood the Temple ofSaturn, of which eight Ionic columns remain. Behind thesetemples was the Tabularium or Record Office of Ancient Rome,built B.C. 78. The ruins of this building deserve a visit.Between the Temples of Saturn and Vespasian is a rangeof small columns, formerly part of the Portico of the DiiConsentes, which led to the Scuola Xantha, a series ofoffices for notaries and scribes.The Arch of Septimius Severuswas built A.D. 204, in honour of the Emperor and his sons,

• The position and names of many of the existing ruins in the Forum only been clearly ascertained since the occupation of Rome by the an Government in 1870, Signor Rosa, under its direction, having excaa great portion of the area of the Forum.

THE MAMERTINE PRISON. 97Caracalla and Geta, to commemorate victories over the Parthians, Arabians, and Adiabeni. It consists of a centre arch, witha smaller arch on either side. A brazen chariot with six horsesand a statue of Severus formerly crowned the summit. In themiddle ages the arch was used as a fortification . The originalinscription was altered by Caracalla, who murdered his brotherGeta, and obliterated his name from every public monument.From the front of the arch the Via Sacra led through theForum. This was a favourite lounge of the Romans, and hereHorace encountered the bore, as he records in one of his Satires,amusingly translated into English verse by Cowper.To the right of the arch on either side of the Via Bonellaare the churches of Sta. Martina and St. Luke, and St.Adriano, both of considerable antiquity. The crypt of theformer, which is on the left on entering the street, is very fine.These churches occupy part of the site of the Forum Cæsaris.Behind the arch, a little to the right at the foot of thedescent from the Capitol, is the church of San Giuseppede' Falegnami ( St. Joseph of the Carpenters) . The fronthas a small bas- relief of St. Peter in prison. Below the churchis the Mamertine Prison, consisting of two chambers, oneabove the other. Through the circular opening of the roof ofthe lower chamber the prisoners were thrown , and left to die ofhunger and cold. Here Jugurtha and others were imprisonedand died. A legend relates that St. Peter and St. Paul wereimprisoned here, and having converted their jailers, caused amiraculous spring to flow, and in it baptized their converts.On the staircase is a hole in the wall protected by iron bars, saidto bethe impression of St. Peter's head when pushed againstthe wall by a jailer. An iron door in the lower prison closesthe mouth of a drain which leads to the Cloaca Maxima,the great sewer of Ancient and Modern Rome.Leaving the arch, and proceeding down the Forum, thevisitor passes on the left hand the Old Rostrum, and on theother side the Column of Phocas, erected A.D. 607, inhonour of the Emperor of that name. Behind the column wasthe Basilica Julia, founded by Julius, and finished byAugustus Cæsar, on the site of an older Basilica . The squarebrick pedestals are restorations. The steps which led from the street to the Basilica can still be traced.Beyond this are three columns of the Temple of Castorand Pollux, founded B.C. 484, in honour of the twin godswho assisted the Romans at the battle of the Lake Regillus798ROME.The columns now standing are part of the Temple as restoredby Domitian in the first century of our era.Between the Church of St. Adriano and the Column ofPhocas are Two Balustrades, with alto-reliefs of a Sacrificeon one side, and of the founding of orphan asylums by Trajan on the other.Opposite the Basilica Julia, on the other side of the ViaSacra, are a number of Honorary Columns, and the remains ofthe pedestal of the bronze equestrian statue of Domitian.Further along the modern level, on the left hand side, is theTemple of Antoninus and Faustina, built A.D. 138 .The portico and parts of the cornice are still entire, and formpart of the Church of St. Lorenzo in Miranda, which was constructed within the Temple at an early period . The churchwas rebuilt in the seventeenth century.Between this church and the Temple of Castor and Polluxis a heap of concrete, the remains of the Temple ofJulius, erected by Augustus Cæsar on the site where the bodyof Julius was burnt.To the left are the remains of the Temple of Vesta, foundedby Numa Pompilius, second King of Rome. Here the vestalvirgins kept the sacred fire always burning.Close to the columns of the Temple of Castor and Polluxis the small Church of Santa Maria Liberatrice.Returning through the Arch of Septimius Severus, andentering the Via Bonella, the visitor reaches ( No. 44) theAcademy of St. Luke,with its picture gallery, open daily from 9 to 5.ROOM I.Turn to the left on entering.A StormThe Flight into Egypt .Tempesta.Barocci.The Mystic Marriage of St. Catherine of Alexandria Memling.Descent from the CrossThe Three Graces (a Sketch)Pastoral SceneVirgin with the Infant Christ and Angel Musicians Landscape with Ancient MonumentsSt. Jerome Praying in the DesertPortrait of Innocent XII.Sea Piece ·Unknown.Rubens.Orrizonte..Vandyke.Orrizonte.Titian.Velasquez.Vernet.ACADEMY OF ST. LUKE. 99Landscape .Poussin.Cascade with Peasants Fishing Salvator Rosa.Mountain Scene with FishersIdemSalvator Rosa.Poussin.St. Jerome Expounding the Scriptures Spagnolette.• Vernet.Paolo Veronese.Vandyke.Gherardo della Notte.A SeaportVanity Portrait of a LadyCumaan Sibyl Chanting the OraclesCardinal Wolsey receiving his Cardinal's Hat . G. H. Harlow.Portrait of a Man . •Vanity, Semi-nude, Lying on a CouchTitian.Titian.Bassano.Claude Lorrain.Bernini.Angels Announcing the Nativity to the Shepherds .A SeaportA Bust with Floating HairDolore, a Bust.ROOM II.Commencing from the right.Bacchus and Ariadne Guido.Susanna and the Elders Paolo Veronese.Virgin and Infant Jesus Albani.Sea Piece • Vernet.Triumph of Galatea; copy by Giulio Romano, of Raphael's Fresco in the Farnesina.Triumph of Bacchus Hebe ·View on the TiberSt. Bartholomew FlayedThe Tribute MoneySt. Andrew .Musicians (unfinished)St. Luke Painting the Portrait of the VirginPoussin.Pellegrini.Vanvitelli.Bronzino.Raphael.Titian.Bronzino.Venus and Cupid (fresco transferred to canvas)Tarquin and LucretiaTitian.Guercino.Guido Cagnacci.Cupid (transferred from a vaulting in the Vatican) .FortuneThe Mystic Marriage of St. Catherine of AlexandriaCallisto and NymphsPerseus and AndromedaAn Architectural ElevationRaphael.Guido.Paolo Veronese.Titian.Cav. d'Arpine.• Canaletto.Portrait of Claude Gelée, called Lorrain; painted by himself.100 ROME.On the upper part of the walls are arranged 136 portraits ofmembers of the Academy of St. Luke.ROOM III.contains portraits of the Academicians of St. Luke.In the three rooms of the lower floor are collections ofmodels, drawings, etc.At the end of the Via Bonella is a low arch in an ancientwall, which formed the boundary of the Forum of Augustus.Passing through the arch, the visitor sees on his left threeCorinthian columns, which formed part of the Temple ofMars Ultor, built by Augustus Cæsar after he had avengedhis uncle's murder. Returning through the arch, and passingto the right, are two half-buried Corinthian columns, the bound- ary wall of the Forum Transitorium . Within thisarea formerly stood a Temple of Minerva, the remains of whichwere destroyed by Paul V. ( 1605-21).The visitor should now retrace his steps to the Forum, and,passing the Temple of Antoninus and Faustina, proceed to theChurch of SS. Cosma and Damiano, which is builtamong the remains of three ancient temples. The first, whichforms a circular vestibule, was the Temple of Romulus, erectedby Maxentius to his son Romulus. The other two templeshave not yet been indentified, but they form the body and backpart of the church. The ancient level was the floor of thecrypt; the present floor of the church was constructed in 1632 .Next to the church is the Oratory of the Confraternity of the Lovers of Jesus, and further to the left arethe ruins of the Basilica of Constantine, standing onthe site of the Temple of Peace, erected by Vespasian on partof Nero's Palace. The building was 320 feet long, by 235feet wide; and the span of the arches, of which three remain,is 80 feet. The roof of the nave was formerly supported byeight Corinthian pillars, the last of which was removed in1613 , by Paul V., to the piazza in front of the Church of Sta.Maria Maggiore.Opposite the Basilica of Constantine is the entrance to thePalatine Hill,in shape an irregular quadrangle. This is the site of RomaQuadrata, the ancient city of Rome, founded according toTHE PALATINE HILL. ΙΟΙthe common tradition by Romulus, B.C. 753. The vast andinteresting ruins which modern excavators have brought tolight, were during the middle ages covered with vineyards andgardens, the largest of which were the Farnese Gardens.Napoleon III. purchased these gardens of the ex- Royal Familyof Naples in 1861 , and commenced the excavations whichhave laid bare the remains of the Palace of the Cæsars,the surrounding temples, etc. The Palatine is open every day.On ascending from the Forum a fountain, erected by the Farnese family, is soon reached; on the left are the remains of the Summa Nova Via, which skirted the side of the hill, andled to the Porta Mugonia, of which only slight remainscan be traced. On the right is a mass of concrete, the ruins ofthe Temple of Jupiter Stator, originally founded by Romulus. In front are the ruins of the Edes Publica ofNerva, leading to the Great Audience Chamber,having on either side the Lararium, or abode of the house- hold gods, and the Basilica. It was in the latter that,according to a tradition, St. Paul was brought before Nero.Behind this part of the building is the great Peristylium, orrange of columns, whence a passage led to the buildings erected at a somewhat earlier date. In the area of the Peristylium aresome excavations called, without good grounds, the Baths of Livia. The ceilings of some of the chambers yet retain tracesof the original decoration. From the Peristylium the visitorpasses to the Triclinium, or dining-hall; beyond this is asmall portico and the remains of two halls, and on the right the platform of a large and small temple. The former is conjectured to have been the Temple of Jupiter Victor, foundedB.C. 295, and the latter the Temple of Jupiter Propugnator.Further along the same side of the hill is a deep cutting.On one side of it are the remains of an ancient wall, supposedby some to form a part of the earliest city wall. On the otherside of the cutting are remains, supposed by some to belong tothe House of the Augurs, and by others to the Temple of Cybele.The visitor now reaches several small vaulted chambers,believed to have formed part of the house of Tiberius C.Nero, father of Tiberius. The mosaics and wall paintings ofsome of the chambers are in good preservation.Descending by a path facing the Aventine, the visitor entersthe immense oblong area of the Stadium of Domitian,much of which yet remains to be excavated. At the further102 ROMEend of the Stadium are the remains of the buildings erected bySeptimius Severus, and near at hand is a platform commandinga magnificent view. On the east is the Colosseum, andbetween it and the spectator are five arches of the aqueduct(Aqua Claudia) which supplied the Palatine. To the south arethe churches of St. John Lateran, and St. John and St. Paul.Further to the west the ruins of the Baths of Caracalla. Duewest the Jewish cemetery, and outside the city the church ofSt. Paul without the walls, and beyond that the Aventine and St. Peter's.A modern staircase leads from this platform beneath thePorticoes of Septimius Severus, and the visitor after repassing the Stadium of Domitian reaches several small chambers. Inone of these was found the burlesque drawing of the Crucifixion ,with the inscription , " Alexamenos worships his God, " nowpreserved in the Museum of the Royal College. The roughdrawing was probably made by some soldier of the guard, in ridicule of a Christian comrade.On the north- west side of the hill another portion of theearly wall already mentioned is visible, and behind it are someremains of buildings of a later period.A bridge was constructed by Caligula from the Palatine tothe Capitol; a portion of the balcony leading to it still exists .Near here in a small building are various objects, found in thecourse of the excavations, which have been collected into aMuseum.Quitting the Palatine and returning to the Forum , the visitor arrives at theArch of Titus,erected on the summit of the Velta, and at the foot of thePalatine, in honour of his conquest of Judea and Jerusalem, and restored in 1822. From its inscriptions, reliefs, and thecirc*mstances of its erection, it has always been one of themost interesting monuments of Rome. It is of white marblefrom Pentelicus, in Greece, with a single archway. An inscription, on the side nearest the Colosseum, records its dedication:Senatus populusque Romanus divo Tito divi Vespasiani filioVespasiano Augusto. The inscription on the Forum side records the restoration . The reliefs inside the arch represent on oneside the transit of Titus, and on the other soldiers carrying thegolden table, the silver trumpets, and the seven-branchedcandlestick, -spoils from the Temple at Jerusalem.THE COLOSSEUM. 103On the further side of the arch are some remains, andon the right hand side is a heap of ruins, conjectured to haveformed part of the Palace of the Cæsars. Opposite stood theTemple of Venus and Rome, founded by Hadrian, A.D.121. The temple was built on a concrete platform, measuring500 feet by 300, and 28 feet high. Some of the marble stepsand the two apses still remain. On the platform the church ofSta. Francesca Romana has been built, and much of thematerial of the temple was employed in its construction. Inthe right transept of the church is the tomb of Gregory XI.(1370-78), surmounted by a bas-relief of the return of the PapalCourt to Rome, A.D. 1377, after an exile of seventy- two yearsat Avignon. Here protected by iron bars, is a piece of basaltbearing the impress of St. Peter's knees, when he knelt in theVia Sacra to pray for aid against Simon Magus, who on thisspot is said to have fallen and been carried away by demons.The façade of the church was designed by C. Lombardi, whor*stored the whole building in 1516.From the Arch of Titus, a sloping roadway, the ancient ViaTriumphalis, leads to theArch of Constantine.The arch was erected in honour of Constantine's victoryover his rival Maxentius, at the Pons Milvius, near Rome, A.D.311. It consists of three archways, the centre being thelargest. Each side has four Corinthian columns of Numidianmarble, surmounted by a figure of a Dacian. Between thestatues are reliefs and an inscription. Much of the ornamentation was taken from an arch erected to Trajan, of which norecord remains. The other sculptures illustrate events in thelife of Constantine.In front of the arch are the remains of a fountain calledthe Meta Sudans, so called because the water trickledthrough the openings like perspiration . Near this spot are theremains of the square pedestal of the colossal bronze Statue of Nero.The Colosseum,or Flavian Amphitheatre, was built during the reigns of thethree Emperors of the family of Flavius, viz. , Vespasian,Titus, and Domitian. From its vast size it obtained the namIC4 ROME.of the Colosseum, and it is recorded to have filled Saxon pilgrims to Rome with wonder at its vast proportions. Thefoundation was laid A.D. 72, and eight years afterwards Titusopened it with a series of games lasting one hundred days, at which nine thousand animals are said to have been s! ain. Thebuilding was completed by Domitian. The form of the Colcsseum is an ellipse, the circumference about 1848 feet, considerably more than the third of a mile. It consisted externallyof three arcades, one above the other, measuring 35 feet 6inches, 39 feet, and 39 feet 5 inches respectively, and in the Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian orders. The arcades were surmounted by an attic with Corinthian pilasters, measuring 46feet, the total height being 165 feet . The extreme length is629 feet, and the extreme width 527 feet. The area measures288 feet 6 inches by 182 feet 6 inches.The cavea accommodated 87,000 spectators. The firstdivision of seats, or Podium, was occupied by the ImperialFamily, Magistrates, ard Government Officers. The seconddivision, or Præcinctiones, included twenty-four rows of seatsfor the senators. The third division , also called Præcinctiones,had sixteen rows of seats for the equestrian order. The fourthdivision, or Menianum, had nine rows of stone and sixteen rowsof wooden seats, for the populace. The entrances to the seatswere through the eighty arches of the external portico. Theprincipal entrances were at each end. Over the interior a greatVelarium or curtain protected spectators from the heat of the sun.During the middle ages the Colosseum was robbed of muchof the stone work, and the metal bolts which held the stonestogether were in many cases removed. In the last century,however, Benedict XIV. dedicated the building to the memoryof the early Christians who here suffered martyrdom; furtherspoliation was prevented; and in 1805 and 1828 the twogreat buttresses were erected for the support of the building.Recent Excavations have laid bare the original arenatwenty-one feet below the modern level, and at the end farthestfrom the Forum three enormous corridors have been discovered.These probably led to the great menagerie, where the wildanimals were kept. In another passage the sockets of the gateswhich penned up the animals have been brought to light, andalso the great drain made to carry off the water which flooded the arena for mimic naval engagements. In addition to theseST. CLEMENT. 105most interesting results many other antiquarian discoveries have been made.Leaving the Colosseum, the Via Labicana leads to theremains of the Golden House of Nero, miscalled theBaths of Titus. The chambers of Nero's house were filled inby Trajan to form a platform for his baths, some remains ofwhich can be seen in the vineyard above.the Further along the Via Labicana, but on the opposite side, isBasilica of St. Clement,underneath which the remains of an earlier church were discovered in 1857. Many of the columns of the nave still exist,with some mosaic pavement; and several frescoes have beenfound, the most important of which are:-Mutilated figure of our Saviour, life size .On the wall of the right aisle, at the back of a niche.Virgin with Infant Saviour.On the vault.Head of our Saviour.On the sides.Fragments of fresco supposed to have represented the sacri- fice of Abraham.Two groups of heads, on the upper part of the wall, looking from opposite points to one centre, and originallythe corners of a large picture, supposed to have been arepresentation of one of the Councils held in St.Clement's.

On the south side of the nave.Pier St. Clement officiating at the altar, and, above, hisinstallation by St. Peter. Below, is a scene representingsome slaves moving a column under the direction of acenturion .Pier: The story of St. Alexius; above, a seated figure of ourSaviour between the archangels Michael and Gabriel,and St. Clement and St. Nicholas.106 ROME.On wall and pilaster at corner.The Crucifixion.The Marys at the Sepulchre.The Descent of our Saviour into Hades.The Marriage at Cana in Galilee.On walls between the columns of the Narthex.Translation of the Relics of St. Clement from the Vatican tothis Basilica.The Miracle at the shrine of St. Clement.Our Saviour blessing according to the Greek rite, betweentwo angels; and St. Cyril and St. Methodius.At the end of the left aisle.Fragments of the Crucifixion of St. Peter.St. Cyril baptizing by immersion.Further investigation showed that an earlier building existedunder the lower basilica. This is probably the very house referredto by St. Jerome in which St. Clement lived. This buildingshows traces of having been converted into a Mithraic Templeabout the third century. Beneath the house are remains of stillearlier buildings, but the discovery of the earliest place ofChristian assembly is one ofthe most interesting results ofmodern research. Great difficulties, arising from the necessity ofpreventing injury to the superstructure, were experienced inexcavating.Leaving the church by the side door, the visitor enters the Via San Giovanni Laterano. This road leads direct to theLateran Palace and Basilica past the Obelisk , which wasbrought from Thebes, where it was erected 1700 years beforeChrist. It is the largest and oldest Egyptian obelisk in Rome.Constantinus brought it to Alexandria, and by order of his sonConstantine it was conveyed to Rome, and set up in the CircusMaximus. It was found amongst the ruins of the circus in1587, and was erected where it now stands by Fontana, forSixtus V. It was so injured at the base that it was necessaryto shorten it by three feet, thus reducing its height to 106 feet.St. John Lateran.The Basilica of St. John Lateran is the cathedral of Rome,ST. JOHN LATERAN. 107and claims to be mother and head of all churches of the cityand the world. In this church the pope is crowned . It derivesthe name Lateran from having been built on the site of thehouse of St. Lateran, a Roman senator. The Emperor Constantine constituted it a papal residence, and afterwards, at therequest of Pope Sylvester, founded the Basilica. It was consecrated A.D. 319, and dedicated to the Saviour, but in 1144 thededication was changed by Pope Lucius II. to SS . John theBaptist and Evangelist. It was also called the ConstantianBasilica, from its founder, and the Golden Basilica, on accountof the valuable sacred vessels it possessed.This church was first restored under St. Leo (+40-61 ) andsubsequently by other popes. In 1308 it was almost entirelydestroyed by fire. The pavement of opus Alexandrinum waslaid down by Martin V. ( 1417-31 ) , the carved work ceiling wasmade, it is said, from a design by Michael Angelo during thepontificate of Pius IV. (1559-66) . Clement VIII . (1592-65)altered the form of the building by constructing transepts. In1650 Innocent X. resolved to rebuild it, and entrusted the workto Borromini, whose work was confined to the nave and aisles.The façade was built by Alessandro Galilei for Pope ClementXII. ( 1730-40) . Entering the great doors the visitor faces theapse decorated in mosaic ( 1207) , and in front of it the tabernacle said to contain the heads of St. Peter and St. Paul. Thepavement is the opus Alexandrinum of Martin V. The pierson each side were constructed by Borromini, and enclose theancient columns. Each pier contains a niche, ornamented withcolumns of verde antique, and in each niche is a statue of one of the apostles. The alto-reliefs above the statues weremodelled by Algardi, and are in stucco. On the floor of theConfession is a bronze slab monument of Martin V., containing an effigy of the Pope in bas- relief.Passing to the right along the inner aisle , the visitor shouldnotice on the first pier of the nave a fresco portrait by Giotto,of Pope Boniface VIII. ( 1294-1303 ) , standing between twocardinals, and publishing the first Jubilee of 1300. On thesecond pier is the monument of Pope Sylvester II . The bonesof this pope are said to rattle in his coffin when any of hissuccessors are about to die. On the third pier is the monumentof Pope Alexander III . ( 1159-81 ) , convener of the third Lateran Council, which condemned the doctrines of the Waldenses.Entering the transept, the visitor sees at the end of the right transept the great organ, built in 1599. The great flag, hang-108 ROME.ing in the corner was taken from the Turks at a naval battlefought near Gozo in 1721. On each side of the doorway,below the organ, is a column of Numidian marble, twentyseven feet high.The mosaic on the vault of the apse bears the names of itsdesigners, Jacopo da Torrita and Fra Jacopo da Camerino. Inthe centre of the vault is the head of the Saviour, in commemoration of His appearance at the dedication of the originalbasilica.Alow vaulted portico behind the apse, called the Leonineportico, contains a curious kneeling figure of Pope BonifaceVIII , and leads to the left transept, containing the Altar ofthe Sacrament. This magnificent altar was erected byOlivieri, for Clement VII. ( 1592-1605) . In front are fourbronze columns which, according to one legend, were broughtfrom the temple at Jerusalem by Titus. Another legend saysthat they were cast by Augustus from the prows of galleys taken at the battle of Actium. The columns are said to contain earth brought from the Holy Land. The Ciborium isrichly adorned with pietra dura and jewels. Behind the basrelief of the Last Supper, the top of the table at which it wascelebrated by our Saviour, is said to be preserved. On the rightof the altar is the chapel of the choir.The Five chapels open from the walls of the church.second on the right is the Torlonia Chapel, richly ornamented by sculpture. The first chapel on the left is dedicatedto St. Andrew Corsini, whose mosaic portrait is above the altar.On the left is a bronze statue of Clement XII. , for whom thechapel was built. The porphyry sarcophagus in front belongedto the Baths of Agrippa. The cover is new, but the porphyryand verde antique pillars and the marble panels of the walls areall ancient. A winding staircase leads to the mortuary chapelof the Corsini family below, over the altar of which is a Pietàby Andrea Montanti.The Cloisters are reached through the fifth chapel onthe left. The Gothic portico which surrounds the garden is verybeautiful. The columns are inlaid, like the frieze, with mosaicsof the twelfth century. They are, however, much injured. Anumber of fragments of the older church are preserved here.The Basilica claims to possess many valuable relics ,amongst these are some portions of the manger in which Christwas cradled; the shirt and seamless coat made for Him by theVirgin; some of the barley loaves and small fishes miraculouslyTHE LATERAN PALACE. 109multiplied to feed the five thousand; the linen cloth with whichHe dried the feet of His apostles; also Aaron's rod, the rod with which Moses smote the Red Sea, etc. , etc.Leaving the church, the visitor will notice in the vestibulea statue of Constantine, found in the ruins of his baths on theQuirinal.From the central balcony of the grand façade, the Popeused formerly to bless the people assembled on the Piazza on St. John's day. Above the cornice is a statue of the Saviour,22 feet high, and statues of saints 20 feet high.Beyond the Basilica to the left, is a large niche with a mosaicwhich adorned the end of the Pope's dining-hall in the oldLateran palace. The mosaic was restored and erected on thisspot by Benedict XIV. in 1743 .The Baptistery is said to have been built by Constantine,but the present building, whichis octagonal in shape, dates fromthe fifth century, and has been altered at subsequent periods.The font, an ancient green basalt bath, is said to be that inwhich Constantine was baptized by Sylvester. Rienzi, theTribune, bathed in it previous to his coronation in the Basilicain 1347. The frescoes in the cupola are by A. Sacchi, thoseon the walls are by Mannoni, Maratta, and others, and repre- sent incidents in the life of Constantine.The Lateran Palacewas given by Constantine to Pope Melchiades, and was, untilthe removal to the Vatican, the residence of his successors.The building having become dilapidated by time and injuredby fire, was pulled down under Pope Sixtus V. ( 1585-95) , and anewpalace built by Domenico Fontana. It was occupied by Pope Sixtus as a residence, but since his death, no pope has everlived in it . It is now a Museum of Antiquities and earlyChristian art, and though comparatively uninteresting to theordinary visitor, it is of great value to the artistic and antiquarian traveller.The Sculpture Gallery, open daily from nine to four, isentered from the gateway in the Piazza. It contains a valuablecollection of ancient sculpture arranged in sixteen rooms.The Christian Museum, which is entered from thecourtyard, was founded by Pope Pius IX. for the reception ofancient Christian remains from the catacombs, and other places.The collection includes several sarcophagi, with interesting110 ROME.reliefs, and a number of epitaphs of the early Christians arrangedin the following order: -I. & II.- Public inscriptions relating to Christian worship.III.-Elegies of martyrs written in verse, by PopeDamasus, and engraved by Filocalus.IV. Epitaphs bearing consular dates from the year 70 to 359.V.-Idem from the year 360 to 392.VI. Idem from the year 392 to 409.VII.-Idem from the year 425 to 557.VIII. & IX.- Inscriptions concerning dogmas.X.-Epitaphs of Popes, Priests, Deacons, and other ministers of the Church.XI.-Epitaphs of virgins, widows, pilgrims, neophytes,catechumens, etc.XII.-Epitaphs of illustrious men and women, soldiers,artizans, and divers officials.XIII.-Epitaphs of relationship; family, nation, andcountry.XIV. & XV. -Figures and symbols of Christian dogmas. The faces of St. Peter and St. Paul, No. 42, arecurious.XVI.-Figures and symbols of arts, and civil and domestic occupations.XVII.-Epitaphs distinguished by singularity of form.XVIII.-Inscriptions painted on brick, in red and white,found in the Catacomb of Sta. Priscilla, on theVia Salaria Nuova.XIX.-Inscriptions found in the Catacomb of St. Prætextatus, on the Appian Way.XX. Inscriptions found in the Catacomb of St. Agnes,on the Via Nomentana.XXI.-Inscriptions found at Ostia.XXII.-Inscriptions found in the Catacombs of the Vatican.XXIII. Inscriptions found in the Catacomb of St.Cyriacus, at St. Lorenzo, outside the walls.XXIV.-Inscriptions found in the Catacomb of St. Pancratius, on the Janiculum.XXV.-Inscriptions found in the Jewish Catacombs.The Picture Gallery. In the first and second rooms,are copies of paintings from the Catacombs. In the third roomSCALA SANCTA. IIIare some frescoes of the ninth and fourteenth centuries . Thefourth room contains several mosaics. In the fifth room is aportrait of George IV. of England, by Sir T. Lawrence. Theremaining rooms contain a few pictures of interest.On leaving the place, the visitor should turn the corner tothe right, in order to reach the building which contains theScala Sancta,or Holy Staircase, supposed to have been ascended by Christ onHis way to the Judgment Hall of Pilate. The stairs, twentyeight in number, are of veined white marble, and the legendrelates that they were brought from Jerusalem by the EmpressHelena. The staircase was removed from the old Lateran palaceby order of Sixtus V., and placed in the building it now occu- pies, which has, however, been altered by Pope Pius IX. Thestaircase can only be ascended on the knees, but there areflights of stairs on each side, which can be used in the ordinary manner. It was, whilst making the ascent of the Scala Sancta,that Luther remembered the text, " The just shall live by faith ,”whereupon he arose from his knees and abruptly left the place.At the top of the staircase is an Oratory, called the Sancta Sanctorum, to which the clergy alone are admitted. Theoratory contains a miraculous picture of the Saviour, commenced by St. Luke, and finished supernaturally whilst he slept.On the sides of the staircase are groups by Giacometti, the Ecce hom*o and the Kiss of Judas. In the vestibule is astatue of Christ bound, by Mély, the gift of Pius IX.The lofty brick arches on the left of the building are remains of the Aqueduct of Nero. This aqueduct, which joinedthe Aqueduct of Claudius at the Porta Maggiore, can be traced in a line to where it crosses the valley between the Palatine and the Cœlian Hills.The view from the front of the Lateran is very fine, andis best seen in the evening. Beyond the palace are the ruinsof the ancient Porta Asinaria, and further on is the Porta SanGiovanni, erected in 1574. The arcade beyond the latter gateformed part of the old city wall, at right angles from which ispart of the Aqueduct of Sixtus V. The Sabine Hills are inthe front distance, and the Alban Hills to the right.Crossing the open space in front of the church the visitorshould proceed along the avenue to the ruins of the Amphitheatrum Castrense, which was built into the wall ofAurelian. It is elliptical in shape, the diameters being 300 feet112 ROME.and 250 feet, and was surrounded by two tiers of Arcades. Itwas probably built by Tiberius or Nero, for the amusem*nt of the Prætorian Guard.Beyondthe amphitheatre is theBasilica of Santa Croce in Gerusalemme,which was founded by the Emperor Constantine, in honour ofthe finding of the Cross by his mother Helena. The churchhas been rebuilt and much altered . The present front was erectedin 1744 by P. Passalacqua and D. Gregorini.The fresco of the apse represents the discovery of the cross.Under the high altar is an ancient basalt bath, said to containthe relics of St. Cesarius and St. Anastatius. The baldacchinois supported by four beautiful columns.On the left side of the tribune the visitor descends into thechapel of St. Helena, a portion of the original church. Thefloor is said to rest on earth brought from Jerusalem. Themosaic of the vaulting dates from the eleventh century, andwas restored in the sixteenth. In this chapel is preserved,amongst other relics, a small wooden panel, said to be the"Title " placed on the Cross by Pilate.Within the grounds of the Monastery of the Church are remains of the Sessorian Palace, the residence of Helena. Thisruin is known as the Temple of Venus and Cupid.A lane leads from the north- west corner of the church,passing under two finely-preserved arches of Nero's aqueduct, toThe Porta Maggiore,formed of two arches of the aqueduct of Claudius. The archon the right was called the Porta Prænestina, and that on theleft the Porta Labicana, from the two roads that passed underthem. On the arch are inscriptions relating to Claudius, Titus,and Vespasian. In front of the gate is the square ruin of theTomb of Eurysaces the Baker, and his wife, discovered in 1838.The monument probably dates from about 100 B.C. It wasformed of hollow cylinders placed endways, in supposed imitation of the Roman panarii or bread- baskets. On the frieze ofthe monument is a sculptured representation of bread- making.Passing through the gate and turning to the right the visitorwill observe several filled- in arches of the Claudian aqueduct,and continuing along the walls and by the outside of the Amphitheatrum Castrense can again enter the city by the Porta San Giovanni Laterano.CHURCH OF THE QUATTRO CORONATI. 113The Coelian Hill is to the south of the Via San GiovanniLaterano, a turning on the left hand of which, about half-way down, leads to theChurch of the Quattro Coronati,dedicated, as its name implies, to the four crowned painters andfive martyred sculptors. The former suffered a most painfuldeath, pointed iron crowns being driven down upon their temples. The original church was built in the fourth century, butwas destroyed when Rome was taken by Robert Guiscard in 1084. The walls and vault of the tribune have some finefrescoes by G. Mannozzi.Not far from this church is the curious circular Church ofSt. Stefano Rotondo, which is entered by a door on theright. The diameter of the church is 198 feet, the roof supported by fifty-eight columns, and the walls painted with representations of Martyrdoms, commencing with the Massacre ofthe Innocents by Herod the Great. It is supposed that thischurch was originally a meat market, the Macellum Magnum,built by Nero, but some authorities consider it to have been aTemple of Faunus.Close to this church is the Church of Sta. Maria inDomenica, sometimes called Sta. Maria della Navicella, from the marble gallery, copied from an antique, in theportico. The church occupies the traditional site ofthe Houseof Cyriaca, who suffered martyrdom . The church was rebuiltby Leo X., and Bramante, Raphael, and M. Angelo were employed as architects. The façade is by the last-named.On leaving this church and turning to the left is the Archof Dolabella, erected A.D. 10, and subsequently used as partof the aqueduct of Nero.Close to the arch on the left is the now disused Church ofSt. Tommaso in Formis, above the door of which is acurious mosaic.Further on is the Church of San Giovanni e Paolo,on the site of a building erected in the fourth century, in honourof saints martyred in the reign of Julian the Apostate. Theoriginal portico alone remains. In the middle of the nave araised slab with an inscription marks the place of the martyr- dom. In the grounds adjoining the church are some remains ofthe Vivarium, where beasts for the supply of the Colosseumwere kept. From the top of the grounds a good view can be had.The Church of San Gregorio, standing on a flight of 8114 ROME.thirty-two steps, is at the other side of the street. On this spotstood the house of Pope Gregory the Great, which he convertedinto a monastery. After his death the monastery was deserted ,but Gregory II. (715-31 ) brought back the monks and rebuiltthe church. The sham front, which stands at some distancefrom the building, was erected in 1633 , and the church was rebuilt in 1725.At the end ofthe right aisle is an altar with beautiful basreliefs, and above it a painting of St. Gregory, by Sesto Badalocchi. Tothe right a door leads into a chapel, said to havebeen St. Gregory's cell, which contains some relics.The altar-piece, by A. Balestra, represents St. Andrew.In the Salviati Chapel is a fine marble ciborium , dated 1469.The walls of the Atrium contain monuments to severalEnglish Catholics of the sixteenth century, including those of Sir Edmund Carne, who acted with Cranmer in the matter ofQueen Catherine's divorce from Henry VIII.On the left side of the church are chapels dedicated to Sta.Silvia, mother of St. Gregory; St. Andrew, with some fine frescoes; and Sta. Barbara.Leaving the Church of San Gregorio, and proceeding alongthe Via di Porta San Sebastiano, which was formerly the ViaAppia, the route taken by triumphal processions, the visitorshould turn up the Via Antonina on the right to the ruins ofThe Baths of Caracalla,which in extent rival the Colosseum. The baths were openedA.D. 216, and extended over an area which measured a quarterof a mile each way. The central building was 750 feet long by500 feet wide, and on three sides was surrounded with gardens.Here were not merely baths, not unlike the modern Turkishbath, but libraries, picture galleries, and lecture rooms. It iscomputed that 1600 persons could use these baths at the sametime, and there were eleven other baths of the same kind inImperial Rome. In the ruins many magnificent works of arthave been discovered, including the Farnese Hercules, the ToroFarnese, etc.At the back of these ruins (the visitor must, however,return to the Via San Sebastiano) is the Church of SaintsNereus and Achilleus, martyrs. The existing churchwas built by Pope Sixtus IV. ( 1471-84) , and restored, in 1597,by Cardinal Baronius. The interior is arranged in the syleof the oldest Christian churches, with the bishop's throneTHE VIA APPIA. 115behind the altar.beautiful.The mosaic work of the choir is veryFurther on in the same street is a Roman house of the secondcentury. The entrance is through the gate of the Vigna Guidi.Opposite is the Church of St. Sisto Vecchio, where theDominican order was founded; the façade is by B. Pintelli.The street divides a little further on; the road to the leftleads to the closed Porta Latina and the Church of SanGiovanni a Porta Latina, opposite which is a smalloctagonal chapel called San Giovanni in Olio, markingthe spot where St. John the Evangelist was put into boiling oiland escaped harmless.The Via San Sebastiano continues to the Porta San Sebastiano. On the left-hand side of the road is the Tomb of theScipios, discovered in 1780; and a little further on theVigna Codini, an ancient Roman monument in which theashes of the dead were kept in urns, arranged in niches re- sembling dovecotes, and thence called Columbaria.The Arch of Drusus, erected A.D. 2 , to Drusus, brotherof the Emperor Tiberius, here crosses the street, which leads tothe Porta San Sebastiano, a construction ascribed to Belisarius.The road without the city is still called the Appian Way; itwas by this road that St. Paul entered Rome.The Via Appia.Leaving the city and passing down the Via Appia, thevisitor passes the site of the Temple and Field of Mars,where victorious generals waited for the decree of the RomanSenate before entering the city in triumph. The enormousheap of concrete upon the top of which a vineyard- keeper hasbuilt his hut, was the Tomb of Geta. The sides of the roadare lined with tombs and catacombs for some miles. Thesmall church of Santa Maria delle Piante is further on.Here, according to legend, St. Peter, flying from Rome to avoidmartyrdom, met the Saviour and asked Him, " Whithergoest thou, O Lord? " The reply was, " I go to be crucifiedagain." The apostle, thus reproved, returned to the city. In1536 the church was restored by Cardinal Pole. It is namedpiante from the miraculous impression of the Saviour'sfoot.""Here the road divides; the left-hand road leads to theBasilica of Santa Petronilla, recently discovered andexcavated. The straighter road leads to the116 ROME.Catacombsof St. Calixtus and Sebastian. In these the earlyChristians assembled for worship, and in many cases wereburied. Most interesting discoveries have been continuallymade. Permission to visit these subterranean galleries can beobtained on application at the office of the Cardinal Vicar. Thecustodian of the catacombs will show visitors over them, andpoint out the most noteworthy. The Jewish Catacomb isnear by.Following the Via Appia, the visitor passes a ruined porticostanding in the garden of a deserted house; this is supposedto have been the Tomb of Romulus, son of the EmperorMaxentius. Beyond it are the remains of the Circus of Romulus, built A.D. 311. On the summit of the hill is theTomb of Cæcilia Metella, used in the Middle Ages as afortress by the Gaetani family, who levied black mail uponthose who passed along the Appian Way; within the ruins are the remains of a Gothic Church. The size of this monumentenables the spectator to form some idea of the immense tombswhich lined the roads out of Rome. The course of the AppianWay can be traced from this spot over the plain to the AlbanHills. The tombs extend a considerable distance; amongstthem are the Tomb of Seneca, the Tombs of theCuratii, etc.The Quirinal Hill has always been considered thehealthiest district of the city; here many new houses have beenrecently built, and the neighbourhood is quickly improving .In the sixteenth century the Carrafa Palace occupied thehill; but towards the end of the century Gregory XIII.( 1572-85) directed a Lombard architect, Flaminio Ponzio, to commenceThe Quirinal Palace.The buildings were improved and extended by subsequentPontiffs. In this palace the conclave of cardinals used toassemble on the death of the Pope to elect his successor, andthe result was proclaimed from the balcony of the façade over- looking Monte Cavalio. The palace is now a royal residence,occupied by the King and Queen of Italy. The state apart-QUIRINAL PALACE. 117ments, which are entered from the great courtyard, can generallybe seen. They compriseTHE SALA REGIA,150 feet in length, built by Paul V. The vault is covered withfrescoes by Lanfranco and Carlo Saraceni. Along the frieze,the arms of the cities of Italy have recently been painted. Atone end of the hall is a painting of Frances de Valois andMaria Giovanni Battista (the two wives of Charles Emanuel II .of Savoy), on horseback, by Delfino.THE PAULINE CHAPEL,built by Carlo Maderno, for Paul V., from whom it takes its name. It was in this chapel that the election of the Popeschosen in the Quirinal was completed. The Cardinal chosenbeing asked by the Cardinal Deacon if he accepted the pontificaldignity, and replying in the affirmative, he was invited todeclare his name, in accordance with the usage established by Pope Sergius IV. , 1009-12 , that " the Pontiffelected shall leavehis baptismal name and assume another. " Having been invested with the pontifical robes by the two senior Cardinals,he gave from the altar his first benediction to the Cardinalspresent, and then seating himself upon the pontifical thronewhich stood on the daïs to the left-received the homage of themembers of the Sacred College, in the manner directed by the ceremonial, as follows: -" One at a time the Cardinals shallleave their places, and kneeling before the Pontiff, kiss his rightfoot and hand, then rising on their feet, shall give him the kisson both cheeks, which is called the osculum pacis." He thenreceived the fisherman's ring from the Cardinal Chamberlain,and his permission was asked that his election might beannounced to the people. On the eve of the taking of Rome,by the Italian army, on September 20th, 1870, this chapelwas formally deconsecrated. On the walls are now hung somefine Gobelin tapestries, recently brought from Florence.FIRST ANTE-ROOM .The paintings are-David and GoliathThe Triumph of DavidDavid going forth against GoliathSECOND ANTE- ROOM .Guercino.Guercino.Guercino.Tapestry representing the Massacre of St. Bartholomew.118 ROME.THIRD ANTE- ROOM.Tapestry representing the death of Leonardo da Vinci.FOURTH ANTE- ROOM.Hung with blue damask. Facing the window, a picture ofThe Martyrdom of the Forty Jesuits at Japan.FIFTH ANTE- ROOM.Hung with green damask. Facing the window, a picture ofThe Power of Love, by · Cav. di Vivo.SIXTH ANTE- ROOM.Hung with crimson damask. Facing the window, arepictures of Raphael and the Fornarina in his Studio, and ofPia de Tolomei, by Carlo Saltelli. The window of this roomopens on the balcony from which the name of the newly- electedPope was announced to the multitude in the piazza below.SEVENTH ANTE- ROOM.Hung with blue damask. Facing the window is a picture ofSt. John the Baptist, by . Giulio Romano.THE STATE DRAWING- ROOM.The walls are hung, and the gilt furniture entirely covered,with gold- coloured damask. From the ceiling hang two magnificent Venetian chandeliers of blown glass, with colouredflowers in the cinque- cento style, from the Salviati manufactory at Venice. Around the walls are six Chinese vases.THE THRONE ROOM.The walls are hung with dark crimson damask and the canopy with crimson velvet. Around the room are eight magnificent Chinese vases, six surmounted with chandeliers, andtwo enormous lustres hang from the ceiling. Opposite thethrone is a portrait of Charles Albert, King of Sardinia, thefather of Victor Emanuel, by Capisani.THE AMBASSADORS' WAITING ROOM.The walls are hung with blue damask. On the left, oppositethe mirror, is a beautiful Sevres vase; and on the right, twolarge Chinese vases, between which are portrait busts of KingROSPIGLIOSI PALACE. 119Victor Emanuel, by Albertoni; and of the Princess Margherita,executed in 1869, by Fantacchiotti. From the ceiling hang twosplendid Salviati chandeliers.In front of the Quirinal are two magnificent groups ofstatuary which adorn the fountain. They are called Castorand Pollux, and were found on this spot in the ruins of theBaths of Constantine. They are attributed to Phidias andPraxiteles, the great sculptors of Greece, and are said to havestood in Nero's Golden House. Men and horses have evidentlybeen transposed. The basin of the fountain is 76 feet in circumference, and was found in the Forum, and brought here in1818. The obelisk, which is 45 feet high, formerly stood atthe entrance of the Mausoleum of Augustus.Near the fountain on the left is the Palace of theConsulta, now used by the Foreign Minister of the ItalianGovernment; and further on, enclosed by a long blank wall,is theRospigliosi Palace,founded in 1603, by Cardinal Scipio Borghese. The Casino isshown on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and contains some finepictures, and the well- known Aurora, by Guido.AuroraFIRST ROOM.Frescoes on the ceiling.Triumph of Fame, frieze on the leftTriumph of Love, frieze on the right .Guido.Tempesta.Ibid.Paul Brill.Four LandscapesPaintings on the right wall.Virgin and Child School of Leonardo da Vinci.Portrait of a Man Vandyke.Sea Piece . Salvator Rosa.At the right corner.Vanity Titian.Facing the window's.Some fragments of Fresco paintings.120 ROME.THE SECOND ROOM .Turn to the right.Lot and his Daughters ·Samson pulling down the pillars upon the PhilistinesSoldiers sacking a house IdemAnnibale Caracci.Ludovico Caracci.Unknown.Ibid.Ibid.Spagnoletto.Venus and CupidMartyrdom of St. BartholomewGarden of Eden, the Fall of Adam and EveDiana chasing Venus and Cupid Death of Peter MartyrA Horse in bronze, in the middle of the room.Cross the first room toTHE THIRD ROOMDomenichino.Lorenzo Lotti.Unknown.Pass to the left.Perseus delivering Andromeda . Guido.Head of an old man.The Genius of Abundance.Portrait of Nicholas Poussin at the age of 56, by himself.Our Saviour carrying His Cross . · Rubens.Our Saviour meeting His mother on the wayto Calvary Daniele da Volterra.The Triumph of DavidAdam and EveDomenichino.Palma.Head of an old man.Poppea, second wife of Nero Florentine School.Pieta • Annibale Caracci.Opposite to the Rospigliosi Palace is a terrace on which arethe remains of a Temple of the Sun, erected by Aurelian.Some of the fragments are of tremendous size. At the end ofthe terrace are the ruins of the Baths of Constantine,which formerly covered a large part of the hill. The lowerterraces of the garden, sloping down to the palace, are veryinteresting, and contain some ancient sarcophagi.Proceeding along the Via del Quirinale, which runs alongthe south-east side of the palace, the visitor passes the ovalChurch of St. Andrea, with a fine altar-piece by G.BARBERINI PALACE. 121Courtoys, and the monument of Charles Emanuel IV. ofSardinia, who abdicated in 1802, and became a Jesuit..After passing the end of the palace, the Via Quattro Fontanecrosses the Via del Quirinale, and at the intersection are four fountains. The Church and Convent of St. Carlo,built in 1667 by Borromini, occupies the right- hand corner.Continuing down the hill on the left- hand side , theBarberini Palaceis reached. The pictures here are in three rooms, and includethe portrait of Beatrice Cenci, by Guido.FIRST ROOM.4. Annunciation.9. Pieta School of Correggio.Michael Angelo da Caravaggio.10. Sophonisba15. Magdalen11. Apotheosis of St. Urban.16. Joseph and Potiphar's wife 21. St. Cecilia25. Jacob wrestling with the AngelGuercino.Simon Vouet.Pomarancio.Bilivert.Lanfranco.Pomarancio.ROOM II.30. Holy Family 33. Portrait of Urban VIII.38. Our Saviour in the Garden44. Building of the TempleSchool of Raphael.Andrea Sacchi.Correggio.Bonfonti.Locatelli.Francia.Sodoma..School of Raphael.47. Diana and Acteon48. Madonna and Child, with John the Baptistand St. Jerome54. Madonna and Child57. Holy Family58. Madonna and Child63. Portrait of his Daughter67. Portrait of Massaccio, by himself.· Giovanni Bellini.Raphael Mengs.Three Bas-reliefs cast in iron at Berlin.69. Last Supper70. Our Saviour Blessing the Cup71. St. John the Evangelist.After Leonardo da Vinci.After Domenichino.After Domenichin122 ROME.72. A SlaveROOM III.74. The Almighty Reproving Adam and Eve76. View of Castle Gandolfo and the Lake Albano •79. Our Saviour Disputing with the Doctors81. Portrait of the Mother of BeatriceCenci82. The FornarinaofTitian.Domenichino.Claude Lorrain.. Albert Dürer.Michael Angelo da Caravaggio.•83. Portrait of Lucretia Cenci, Stepmother of Beatrice85. Beatrice Cenci86. The Death of Germanicus88. A Sea Piece90. Holy Family93. The Annunciation94. Attack on the Palazzo Vecchio at FlorenceRaphael.Scipio Gaetani.Guido.Nicholas Poussin.Claude Lorrain.Andrea del Sarto.Botticelli.Canaletti.The Library , open on Thursdays, 9 to 3 , contains 10,000Manuscripts, and 60,000 Printed Books.To the north-west of the Palace, on the opposite side fromthe Via Porta Pia, is the Piazza Barberini, from which asmaller Piazza opens, called the Piazza dei Cappucini. In this Piazza is the Church and Convent of the Franciscans (Capuchins) , which contains, in the first chapel to theright, a celebrated picture by Guido, St. Michael overcomingSatan . In the adjoining cemetery, the earth of which is saidto have been brought from Jerusalem, the bones of six thousand monks are piled up in quaint designs. The cemetery canbe seen by applying at the Convent.Returning to the Via Porta Pia, and turning to the right,the visitor reaches the Piazza di Termini, on the right hand sideof which is the Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli ,which occupies part of the site of the Baths of Diocletian,the largest ofthe Roman baths, which included an area measur- ing 1300 feet by 1200 feet. The church was constructed fromdesigns by Michael Angelo, the materials furnished by a portionof the baths. Immediately within the door are the tombs ofSalvator Rosa and Carlo Maratta, and a statue of St. Bruno, by Houdon. The pictures on the walls were originally in St.Peter's.The Church of Sta . Pudentiana stands in the streetof the same name, just before the ascent to the Basilica of Sta.BASILICA OF STA. MARIA MAGGIORE. 123Maria Maggiore, on the Esquiline. It occupies the traditionalsite of the house of Pudens, mentioned by St. Paul in the firstEpistle to Timothy, and of his wife Claudia, the daughter ofthe British king Caractacus. The church contains some handsome tombs and frescoes, and it was the titular church ofCardinal Wiseman. Beneath the church are the remains of thehouse of Pudens.Ascending the hill, past the obelisk which formerly stood in front of the Mausoleum of Augustus, theBasilica of Sta. Maria Maggioreis reached. It was founded A.D. 352, and was the first churchin the city dedicated to the Virgin. The present building waserected in the fifth century, and the mosaics in the arch of thetribune, and on the frieze, are of that date. The mosaic of theCoronation of the Virgin in the apse dates from 1295. Thecampanile, which is the largest in Rome, was built by GregoryXI. ( 1370-78) . The portico, which hides part of the mosaic on the front, was built in the last century. The nave of the churchis divided from the aisles by thirty- six Ionic columns of Greekmarble, brought from some ancient building. On the walls ofthe tribune are four bas- reliefs of the fifteenth century. To theright of the principal altar is the Sixtine Chapel, whichcontains the monuments of Popes Sixtus V. and Pius V. Theformer is adorned with four verde antique columns. On theopposite side is the Borghese Chapel, highly embellishedwith sculpture, frescoes, and marbles of great rarity. Thechapel contains a portrait of the Virgin, ascribed to St. Luke,which is rarely shown, and also monuments to Popes Clement VIII. and Paul V.The Corinthian column in front of the church originallybelonged to the Basilica of Constantine.Leaving the Piazza in front of St. Maria, and proceedingalong the Via Merulana, the visitor passes close to theChurch of Sta. Prassede, with a quaint portico, and somegood mosaics in the interior. Turning to the right along theVia di St. Pietro in Vinculi, the church of St. Martino da' Montiis on the right hand, and further on theChurch of St. Pietro in Vincoliis reached. This church was founded in the fifth century byEudoxia, Empress of Rome, to receive the chains which bound124 ROME.St. Peter in prison at Jerusalem and in the Mamertine: henceits name. It was rebuilt by Adrian I. ( 772-95) , and has beensubsequently restored. The nave is separated from the aisles bytwenty ancient white marble columns, with Doric capitals,measuring seven feet in circumference.In the right aisle is the celebrated Statue of Moses, byM. Angelo. This was intended to form part of the monumentof Julius II. in St. Peter's, but the design was never carriedout, and the statue was placed here by Paul III. ( 1534-50) . Itis surrounded by smaller figures of Leah and Rachel, byRaphael di Monte Lupo, by whom the Sibyl and Prophet werealso executed. The Virgin and Child are the work of Scherano;the recumbent statue of the Pope is by Mazo del Bosco.On the right of the church is the House of LucretiaBorgia. Beyond it is a square tower, formerly part of afortress belonging to the family of Frangipani. In the vineyard on the left of the church are some remains of the Bathsof Trajan.The Pantheonis reached by the Via del Seminario, a turning on the right ofthe Corso. It was founded B.C. 27, by Marcus Agrippa, sonin-law of Augustus, and was at first intended to form part of the baths he proposed to erect. His intention was, however,for some unknown reason, changed, and the building becamea Temple of Jupiter. Except as regards internal decoration ,it is in the same condition now as when built by Agrippa.Much, however, of the bronze adornment, both exterior andinterior, has been at times removed. The last spoliationoccurred in 1632, when Urban VIII. took away 450,000 poundsweight of bronze to construct the Baldacchino of St. Peter, and to cast 100 cannon!The building was damaged by fire A.D. 80, and by lightningA D. IIO. In the last year of the fourth century it was closed as aheathen temple, and about the beginning of the seventh centuryPope Boniface IV. having obtained possession of the building bygrant from the Emperor Phocas, dedicated it to the Virgin and allthe martyrs. It is said that previous to the dedication he broughttwenty-eight cart- loads of bones from the Catacombs, and placedthem near the high altar.The The portico of the church is 110 feet long and 44 feet wide,has sixteen columns. The doorway is 32 feet by 20.rior is 144 feet in diameter, or, including the thicknessSTA. MARIA SOPRA MINERVA. 125of the walls, 190 feet. The building contains some monumentscomparatively unimportant. At the back of the third altar onthe left rests the body of Raphael, who by his will chose thisspot for his burial. His remains were found intact in 1833.The remains of King Victor Emanuele II . are interred here.At the south-east corner of the Piazza in which the Pantheon stands, is the entrance to the Piazza della Minerva.Church of Sta . Maria Sopra Minerva.This edifice, in the pointed Italian Gothic style, stands onthe site of a temple of Minerva. It has recently been restoredat a cost of £23,000.On the wall to the right of the entrances are slabs recording the height of the floods which at various times inundatedthis part of Rome. Entering the church and passing up theright aisle, the frescoes of the fourth and fifth chapels shouldbe observed. The altar- piece of the former is an Annunciationascribed incorrectly to Fra Angelico; it also contains themonument of Urban VII. The sixth chapel belongs to theAldobrandini family, and contains a handsome monument toSilvestro Aldobrandini. The altar-piece is by F. Barocci.At the end of the right transept is the chapel of St. ThomasAquinas, the frescoes of which are by Filippo Lippi. Themonument of Paul IV. ( 1555-59) , who founded the Inquisition ,is against the left wall.On the right of the principal altar is a statue of St. Johnthe Baptist, by Obici, and on the left a statue of Christ, by M.Angelo. Under the altar are the remains of St. Catherine of Siena.The choir has some modern stained-glass windows, and themonuments of the two Popes of the Medici family, Leo X. and Clement VII.On leaving the church and passing to the south side theVia del Gesù is entered, which leads to the Gesu, until recently the principal church of the Society of Jesus. Like allother churches of this order, the decoration of the interior ismost profuse, and the marbles are of the most varied and richest kind. At the end of the left transept is the chapel of IgnatiusLoyola, the founder of the order.The Via Cesarini leads from the front of the church of theJesuits to the handsome Church of St. Andrew dellaValle, which covers the site of the Theatre and Curia of126 ROME.Pompey, where Julius Cæsar was assassinated. Turning to theright, the Piazza Navona, which preserves the plan of theCircus Alexandri , is arrived at. The fountain in this piazza is adorned with statues emblematic of the rivers Danube,Ganges, Nile, and Rio della Plata.On the west side of the piazza is the Church of Sta.Maria della Pace, which contains The Sibyls, by Raphael,in fresco.The Island of St. Bartholomew is connected by a bridge withboth banks of the river. On the left bank of the Tiber, nearthe north-east end of the bridge, is the Orsini Palace, whichcovers part of the site of the Theatre of Marcellus .This magnificent ruin has been built into the palace and adjoining houses. The Theatre was founded by Julius, and completedby Augustus Cæsar, who dedicated it, B.C. 13 , to his nephewMarcellus. North- west of the palace is the Ghetto, or Jews'quarter, and east of the Ghetto is the church of St. Angelo inPescheria, built within the ruins of the Portico ofOctavia, which measured 750 feet by 500 feet. The remainsof the vestibule of the portico are in front of the church. The Corinthian columns are very fine.A little south of the Orsini Palace is the Church of St.Nicolo in Carcere, built among the remains of theTemples of Hope, Juno Matuta, and Piety, which are pointed out by the Sacristan of the church. In the small openspace at the east end of the Ponte Rotto are the remains of ahouse known as the House of Rienzi . The architecturaldetails are very curious. The suspension bridge which herecrosses the Tiber was erected a few years ago to replace a bridgebuilt in 1575, and carried away by the floods of 1598. ThePons Æmilius of ancient Rome was the first bridge whichcrossed the Tiber at this point. From the present bridge a fineview of the Aventine is obtained, and when the river is low themouth of the Cloaca Maxima, and the ruined piers of thePons Sublicius, defended against Porsena by Horatius, can be seen.Opposite the house of Rienzi is the church of Sta . MariaEgiziaca, formerly the Temple of Fortuna Virilis ,which dates from 214 B.C., and is the most ancient Roman temple now extant. A little further on is another ancienttemple, called the Temple of Vesta, and nowthe Church of Sta. Maria del Sole. Opposite this church is the Church of Sta. Maria in Cosmedin.THE SPADA PALACE . 127Turning to the right on leaving the latter church, the visitorreaches the massive ruin of the Janus Quadrifons, erectedat the intersection of two roads which crossed the cattlemarket of Ancient Rome. Close by is a small arch, calledthe Goldsmith's Arch, one end of which is embedded inthe wall of the Church of St. George, the patron saint ofEngland.Between the river and the side of the Aventine, which isoccupied by vineyards and the churches of Sta. Sabina, St.Alessio, Sta. Prisca, and Sta . Maria Aventina, is the Protestant Cemetery. Here are buried Richard Wyatt andJohn Gibson, English sculptors, John Bell , the surgeon ,Augustus William Hare, and the poet Keats. Here too, undera plain slab, near the Aurelian wall, forming the southernboundary ofthe cemetery, is buried the heart of Shelley.To the east of the Cemetery, close to the Porta San Paolo,formerly the Porta Ostiensis, is the Pyramid of CaiusCestius, who lived in the time of Augustus; the monumentis 114 feet high, and the base is 90 feet square.On the other side of the Cemetery is an artificial hill, calledMonte Testaccio. It is 160 feet high, and formed of brokenpottery, probably the accumulation from terra cotta works inthe neighbourhood; it has been hollowed out, and the excava- tions are used as wine cellars .Leaving the city by the Porta San Paolo, a walk of nearly amile leads to the Basilica of St. Paul; this church wasburnt down on the night before the death of Pius VII. , in1823 , and has been partially rebuilt; the walls have been rebuilt upon the original foundations, and the work has been carriedout in faithful imitation of the former church. Adjoining is aBenedictine monastery worthy of a visit; ladies are not admitted.Further on is the Church of St. Paolo alle Tre Fontane, on the traditional site of the Apostle's execution; the church encloses three fountains which are said to have brokenforth when the decapitated head of St. Paul three times touched the ground.The Spada Palace,in the Piazza Capo di Ferro, near the Theatre of Pompey, contains the statue of Pompev, believed to be that at the base of which Julius Cæsar fell. The picture gallery, open from ten to128 ROME.three on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, contains anexcellent collection .FIRST ROOM.5. David with Head of Goliath Guercino.7. Urban Rocci, dressed as a Pilgrim French School.8. The Triumph of David.9. Fruit and Flowers10. Cardinal Naro Patrizzi13. David dancing before the Ark .18. Cain killing Abel .22. A girl holding a pair of compasses, called Geometry29. Death of Cleopatra .30. Youth carried off by Time39. Fruit and Game40. Portrait of Julius III.48. St. Christopher 53. A Storm54. The Roman Daughter55. Slaying the faithful ShepherdPannini.Castiglioni.Camuccini.Pannini.Lanfranco.Michael Angelo da Caravaggio.Romanelli (?).• Romanelli..Castiglione.Scipio Gaetani.Antonio Razzi.Tempesta.Bolognese School.Luca Giordani.SECOND ROOM.1. Astronomy2. Cardinal Bernardino Spada3. Madonna and Child 4. Jacob's Well9. Attack on a Village10. JudithSebastiano del Piombo.Guercino.Style ofMurillo.Nicholas Poussin.·15. St. John the Baptist preaching in the Desert 16. The Visitation •18. The Revolution of Masaniello at Naples19. The Woman taken in Adultery 22. Two Drinkers26. The Death of Lucretia32. Time carrying off Beauty•• Breughel.Guido.Breughel.• • Cerquozzi.Il Calabrese.Andrea del Sarto.Michael Angelo da Caravaggio.36. Sic transit gloria Mundi: Cupids playing withsoap bubbles43. Our Saviour disputing with the Doctors, replica of that in the National Gallery, LondonGuido.Solimène.Unknown.School of Leonardo da Vinci.THE SPADA PALACE. 129THIRD ROOM.2. St. Anne and the Virgin3. Dalila and Samson .4. St. John the Baptist. M. A. da Caravaggio.• French School.Giulio Romano.5. Latona transforming the Shepherds into Frogs6. The Judgment of Paris7. Adoration of the Shepherds12. Cleopatra and Mark Antony 15. The Mill23. David with Head of Goliath24. The Death of DidoChiari.Luca Cambiasi.Valentin.Trevisani.Breughel.Michael Angelo da Caravaggio.26. Sketch for the Fresco on the vault of the Gesù29. Landscape 40. A Portrait41. Madonna and Child42. A Portrait48. God the Father surrounded by AngelsGuercino.Baciccio.Salvator Rosa.Moroni.Simone da Pesaro.49. Our Saviour meeting his Mother on theway to Calvary .53. A Botanist63. The Rape of Helen66. Horatio Spada71. Portrait73. The Prodigal Son74. Our Saviour driving out the Money Changers75. The Massacre of the InnocentsTitian..Palmegiani.· Palmegiani.Moroni.Guido.Titian.Moroni.Guido.Il Calabrese.Pietro Testa.FOURTH ROOM.3. Winter4. Cardinal Bernardino SpadaTeniers.Guido.15. Two Cherubs' Heads16. Vestals guarding the Sacred Fire17. The Woman taken in Adultery 23. Deposition from the Cross24. Magdalen ·25. The Triumph of BacchusM. A. da Caravaggio.·Paolo da Cortona.Venetian School.Caracci.Guido Cagnacci.Chiari.26. The Betray al of our Saviour 30. St. Cecilia MichaelGherardo della Notte.Angelo da Caravaggio.31. Cardinal Fabrizio Spada .34. Head of a Saint in Fresco38. Magdalen 41. Portrait of a GirlCarlo Maratta.Unknown.Guercino.Paolo Veronese.9130 ROME.44. Madonna and Child49. The Sacrifice of Iphigenia59. The Birth of Bacchus. Andrea del Sarto.· Testa.. Chiari.The Farnese Palace, which is not shown to the public,is considered the grandest palace in Rome. The architect wasM. Angelo, but the façade towards the Tiber was built byGiacomo della Porta. The great hall is painted in fresco by A. Caracci.The Church of St. Pietro in Montorio on theJaniculum, marks one of the supposed sites of St. Peter's crucifixion . The date of the foundation of this church is notknown, but it was deserted for many years, until 1472, whenit was rebuilt by B. Pintelli for the Franciscans at the cost ofFerdinand V. of Spain . It contains several important picturesby Sebastiano del Piombo, Vasari, Vandyke, and others.Outside the Porto Salaria, on the north- east of the city,is the Villa Albani , which contains a large collection ofancient sculptures.Castle and Bridge of St. Angelo.The Castle of St. Angelo was built by the Emperor Hadrian,as an Imperial Mausoleum . The Mausoleum of Augustus,which was the first receptacle for the ashes of the Imperialfamily, was full, the urn containing the ashes of Nerva ( d. A.D.98) having occupied the last niche. The ashes of Trajan(d. A.D. 98) were placed in the magnificent column he haderected. In the reign of Honorius the Mausoleum of Hadrianwas converted into a fortress, and round it have taken placenearly all the faction fights since that time. The Mausoleumwas built A D. 135. Its form was circular, 987 feet in circumference, and it stood on a square basem*nt, each side of whichmeasured 247 feet. The face was of Parian marble, long sincedestroyed. On the angles of the basem*nt were bronze groupsof men and horses, and the cornice was adorned with marblestatues. On the summit was a colossal marble image of thefounder, the head of which is preserved in the Rotunda of theVatican (No. 543 ) . The gates were bronze. Little of theancient exterior work now remains, the building having beenat different times faced for the purposes of fortification . Thestatues on the summit were thrown down on the besiegers, whenthe castle was attacked by the Goths in 537.The first ashes placed in the Mausoleum were those of theCASTLE OF ST. ANGELO. 131adopted son of Hadrian, Ælius Cæsar (d . A.D. 138) . Afterwards the ashes of Hadrian himself; of Faustina the elder,Antoninus Pius, and three of their children; of Marcus Aurelius,Commodus, Septimius Severus, and of Caracalla ( d. A.D. 217 ) , allEmperors, were placed here. The monument was then closed.Alaric rifled it in 409 in search of treasure, dispersed the ashes,and carried off everything that was of value. Nothing wassubsequently known of the interior until 1825, when excava- tions were made. It was then examined, and the principalcorridor was found. This corridor was built of travertinecovered with marble, the pavement being in mosaic. Theprincipal door was in the centre of the basem*nt toward thebridge. From the right of the corridor an inclined spiralpassage, thirty feet wide and eleven high, led to the centralchimber: this was in the form of a Greek cross, in the midstof which once stood the porphyry sarcophagus of the founder.The cover of this sarcophagus is now the font of the BaptismalChapel of St. Peter's.The Mausoleum obtained its present name from an allegedmiraculous vision . In 590 a plague ravaged the city. In thatyear Gregory the Great was chosen Pope. He instituted penitential processions to avert the plague, and in one of these,whilst crossing the b.idge, saw Michael the Archangel sheath- ing a bloody sword. From that moment the plague ceased.In 608-15 Pope Boniface IV. built a chapel on the summit of the Mole called St. Michael amongst the Clouds. The bronzestatue of the Archangel was cast by a Flemish artist, namedPeter Verschaffelt, during the pontificate of Benedict XIV.The Castle has long been used as a state prison. HereBeatrice Cenci, the heroine of Shelley's splendid tragedy, Cellini,Cagliostro, and others, have been confined, and Napoleon III.was detained here for a short time in 1831. The Castle canonly be seen by special permission, to be obtained from theMilitary Commandant in the Piazza Montecitorio.The Bridge of St. Angelo was built by Hadrian, and calledby him Pons Ælius, after his son. It is still in good condition ,having withstood many floods which destroyed more recentbridges across the Tiber, a striking proof of the solidity of thestructure. It was sub equently named St. Peter's Bridge. Thestatues of St. Peter and St. Paul, on the side farthest from theCastle, by Lorenzetto and Paolo Romano, were erected by orderof Clement VII. , in 1530. The parapet was built in 1658.The statues of Angels with instrume its of the Passion are fro132 ROME.designs of Bernini, executed by his pupils. The pedestalsupporting the angel standing third on the right was struck bya cannon- ball during the French siege in 1849.After passing the Castle a plain wall is seen on the rightcrossing the Moat towards St. Peter's. This is a covered waybegun by Pope John XXIII. ( 1410-17 ) , and completed byAlexander VI. (Borghia) , ( 1492-1513) , to afford the occupantsof the Vatican a means of escape to the Castle. The passagewas roofed in by Urban VIII. in 1630.The Via del Borgo Nuovo leads to St. Peter's. On theright is the small Piazza Scossa Cavalli, with a fountain in thecentre, and opposite is the Palazzo Giraud, built by Bramante in1506. Subsequently it passed into the hands of Henry VIII.,King of England, who gave it to Cardinal Campeggio duringhis visit to England on business connected with the queen's divorce . It is now owned by Prince Torlonia, who recentlylet it to Messrs. Thos. Cook and Son for the use of a party ofEnglish tourists during a ten days' stay in Rome. The sum of£500 was paid for this short hiring.ST. PETER'S..The Basilica of St. Peter occupies two famous sites -thetraditional spot where the apostle was buried, and the actualsite of Nero's circus, where many of the early Christians weremartyred. An oratory was erected here A.D. 106 by Anacletus(fifth pope) . By the command of Constantine a Basilica wasbuilt, which was consecrated by the Pope ( St. Sylvester) A.D.324. This Basilica having fallen into decay, Pcpe Nicholas V.( 1447-55) determined to rebuild it. The work, however, progressed slowly until the time of Julius II . ( 1503-13 ) , when theassistance of the great architect Bramante was called in, whodesigned a church in the form of a Greek cross. In the reignof Leo X. three joint architects were appointed, one of thembeing the celebrated Raphael. They altered the design from aGreek to a Latin cross. Several other persons were employedas architects until the employment of Michael Angelo byPaul III. in 1546.Michael Angelo returned to the original plan of a Greekcross, and designed a dome and façade. The work progressed but slowly after Michael Angelo's death. The ball and crosswere placed in position in 1593. Paul V. ( 1605-21 ) employed Carlo Maderno as architect. He prolonged the nave, thusreturning to the design of a Latin cross, and carried forward theST. PETER'S.133façade to its present site. These alterations seriously disfiguredMichael Angelo's designs. The foundation stone of Maderno'sadditions was laid in 1607 , and in 1626 the church was dedicatedby Pope Urban VIII. Reckoning from the beginning of thework under Nicholas V. to the dedication, the building of theBasilica occupied 176 years, extending over the reigns oftwenty-eight popes, and fifteen architects were employed on itsdesigns.The Piazza of St. Peter's is at the western end of theVia del Borgo Nuovo. It is elliptical in shape, the sides beingformed by two semicircular colonnades . These were built byBernini in 1655-67. Each consists of four rows of equidistantcolumns, covering a width of 52 feet. The columns are 42feet high, and each colonnade contains 142 columns and 45pilasters. From the ground to the top of the balustrade measures 59 feet, and on the balustrade are 236 statues of bishops and saints, each figure being 10 feet high. The measurementsof the colonnade are, exterior length 914, interior 794, breadth754. The colonnade is larger than the Colosseum by 226 feetin one direction, and 189 feet in the other.The space enclosed by the colonnades is paved, and containstwo fountains, each forty-six feet high, designed by CarloMaderno ( 1605-12 ) . Near each fountain a flat circular stonein the pavement marks the centre from which the line of thecolonnade is drawn, and the point from which the columnsradiate. Between the fountains is an Egyptian obelisk, broughtby the Emperor Caligula to Rome, and erected by Nero in thecentre of his circus, which formerly occupied part of the siteof the Vatican . The obelisk was placed in its present positionby Fontana, during the reign of Sixtus V., in 1586. It is saidthat the engineer forgot to calculate the enormous strain uponthe ropes produced by the great weight of the column,and that at a critical moment a sailor among the spectators(who were forbidden to shout under pain of death) cried out,"Water on the ropes." The advice was taken, and the obeliskreared; and, as a reward, the family of the sailor were accordedthe privilege of supplying the palm branches used in St. Peter'son Palm Sunday. The Piazza is connected with the churchand the Vatican by closed corridors, 238 feet long.Passing through the Piazza and across the irregular- shaped square beyond, the Great Vestibule or Portico of the churchis reached. This portico is 235 feet long, 42 feet wide, and 66feet high. At each end are wings, and beyond the wings134 ROME.colossal statues of Constantine and Charlemagne, the extremewidth between the statues being 467 feet. The dimensionsof the church itself are as follows: -Interior length (from the door to the end ofthe Tribune) .Exterior lengthInterior width across the Transepts Greatest width of NaveGreatest height of NaveThe Aisles are 207 feet long, 21 feet wide, andFrom the ground to the top of the CrossFrom the pavement to the top of the CrossInterior diameter of the Cupola . ·619 feet.651 feet.449 feet.89 feet.153 feet.48 feet high.470 feet.453 feet.141 feet.Number of Columns, including those in the Colonnade,756 (the greater part of these were taken from buildings ofancient Rome).St. Peter's contains 40 statues in metal, 105 in marble, 161in travertine, and 90 of stucco; 46 altars, 121 lamps, and theremains of 133 Popes, from St. Peter to Pius IX. , died 1878.The area of St. Peter's is 212,321 square feet. It is thelargest church in the world. The following areas are given forthe purpose of comparison.St. Paul's, LondonMilanSevilleCologne YorkAmionsLincoln·Square Feet.108,982.107,782.100,000.81.464.72,860.71,208.66,900.Over the central entrance, and forming part of the portico,is a balcony from which on Holy Thursday, Easter Day, and St. Peter's Day, the Pope blessed the people, a ceremony discontinued since the occupation of the city by the Italians.Three principal doors lead from the portico into the edifice .The central bronze doors belonged to the former building, andwere executed by Antonio Filarete during the reign of EugeniusIV. ( 1431-39). There is a smaller door to the right, walled up,with a bronze cross upon it, called the Holy Door (Porta Santa) .This is only opened at the Jubilee, which is kept every 25 years,nd is then broken down by the Pope with a silver hammer,ST. PETER'S. 135a ceremony omitted by Pope Pius IX. at the Jubilee of 1875.Over the central entrance is a mosaic called the Navicella,representing St. Peter walking on the Sea. It was designed byGiotto in 1298.The visitor now enters the Nave. The majority, althoughobliged to admit the grandeur of the building, experience feelings of disappointment; indeed, it must be allowed that thealteration of the building from a Greek to a Latin cross (andthe consequent prolongation of the nave) must injure the effectof the original design. On the great pilasters on each side arefounts for holy water, supported by cherubs; and these, as isall the statuary, are so well proportioned that, although they appear to be of natural size, it will be found on examinationthat they are gigantic. On the floor of the nave are brass stars,indicating the comparative lengths of other churches, the namebeing affixed to each. The walls are of inlaid marble, as alsois the pavement, designed by Della Porta and Bernini. Againstthe last pilaster on the right-hand side of the nave is the famousbronze statue of St. Peter, sitting on a throne of white marble.The extended foot of the saint is kissed by the faithful. Fromthis point the best view of the interior of the dome is obtained.The pictures around it are all mosaic. The famous inscription,"Tu es Petrus et Super hanc petram ecclesiam meam edificaboet tibi dabo claves regni cœlorum, " is also in mosaic, the lettersbeing 4 feet 10 inches high. The four circular medallionsabove the piers represent the four Evangelists. Their great sizemay be estimated from the pen of St. Luke, which is 7 feetlong. Below the medallions are balconies with spiral columns,from the old church. On certain great festivals the relics areexhibited from the balcony above the statue of St. Veronica.These are the head of the lance which pierced the side of thedying Christ, the handkerchief containing the impression of hisface, handed to him by St. Veronica, on his way to Calvary; apiece of the Cross, and others. The height, however, fromwhich these are shown is such as to prevent them from being distinctly seen. Below the balconies are four statues-St.Veronica holding the handkerchief, by F. Mocchi; St. Helenawith the cross, by A. Bolgio; St. Longinus with the spear, byBernini; and St. Andrew with his cross, by Fiammingo. Theseare about sixteen feet high, and the pedestals on which they restare eleven feet high.Immediately under the Dome is the High Altar. Contrary to the usual practice of the Roman Church, the Pope, whi136 ROME.celebrating mass, stands behind, and not in front of the altar.Above the alar is the great Baldacchino, supported on fourspiral columns. It measures ninety- six feet in height, and was made by Bernini from ancient bronze beams, taken by order ofPope Urban VIII . from the portico of the Pantheon. The bronze of the Baldacchino weighs 116.392 pounds.Under the Altar is the Confession, or Tomb of St. Peter.It is approached by a double flight of stairs in front of the altar.The shrine of the saint, in which his body is said to rest, isenclosed behind bronze gates, richly gilt. In front is a handsome balustrade, and around are eighty-nine lamps, alwaysburning. On the floor is the monumental statue of Pius VI. ,by Canova. He is represented kneeling on the spot where he was wont to kneel when alive.On the right and left of the High Altar are the Transepts .In 1870 the north transept was screened off by canvas stretchedon a frame, and painted in imitation of marble; and here theCouncil, which proclaimed the Pope's Infallibility , was held.Behind the High Altar is the Tribune. In the centre is thegreat chair of St. Peter, said to contain the wooden chair usedby the apostle. Around it are colossal figures, 17 feet 9 incheshigh, of St. Augustine, St. Ambrose, St. Chrysostom, and St. Athanasius.Above the Tribune is an oval window of yellow glass, with Dove in the centre. On the left is the monument of Paul III.,by G. Della Porta; on the right, that of Urban VIII . , by Bernini. On the face of the piers, within the Tribune, are fourtablets, commemorating the promulgation by Pius IX. , in 1854,of the dogma of the immaculate conception of the Virgin. Thenames of several English prelates who were present are inscribed on these tablets.The visitor should nowreturn to the entrance, and beginningon the left or south side, examine in order the Chapels andMonuments.The first is the Baptismal Chapel, with a porphyry font,originally the cover of the sarcophagus of the Emperor Hadrian.The mosaic in the centre of this chapel represents the Baptism,after Carlo Maratta. On the left is the door leading to thedome, and over it the monument of Maria Clementina (d. 1745),wife of the old Pretender. She is described as Queen of GreatBritain, France, and Ireland. Opposite, on the pilaster, is amonument, designed by Canova and erected at the expense ofGeorge IV. , to James III. , King of Great Britain (d. 1766),ST. PETER'S. 137and his sons, Charles Edward, the young Pretender, and Henry,who became a cardinal.Next is the Chapel of the Presentation, containing a mosaicof the Presentation of the Virgin in the Temple. Against theright pilaster of the next arch is the bronze monument ofInnocent VIII. ( d. 1492) , brought from the old church .Above the door, opposite the monument of Pope Innocent,is a plaster sarcophagus which awaits the body of the presentPope. Each successive Pope is buried here temporarily until aproper tomb and monument are prepared.Next comes the Choir Chapel, in which vespers are sungevery Sunday afternoon . On the pilasters are the monumentsof Popes Innocent XI. , by Monot, and Leo XI. , by Algardi.Over the opposite altar is a fine mosaic copy of Raphael'sTransfiguration .Turning to the left is the Clementina Chapel, with monuments of Pius VII. , by Thorwaldsen, and Pius VIII. , by Tene- rani. Above the altar is a mosaic of the Miracle of Gregorythe Great. The body of the saint is said to rest beneath thealtar. St. Gregory, who was Pope 590-604, is famous as thefirst composer of Harmony in music, and as the originator ofthe mission of Augustin, first Archbishop of Canterbury, toEngland.The south transept is named after St. Simon and St. Jude,whose bodies are said to lie under the central altar. Above thealtar is a mosaic after the Crucifixion of St. Peter, by GuidoReni. The columns of Numidian marble in this transept arevery fine. Over the right-hand altar is a mosaic of the Unbeliefof St. Thomas. Over the left-hand altar, which contains thebody of Pope Leo IX. , is a mosaic of St. Francis receiving theStigmata, after Domenichino. Along the sides are a number ofconfessionals for people of all nations.Crossing the transept, the visitor reaches the chapel of theMadonna of the Column, so called from a column brought from the old church, and enclosed within a glass case above the altar,beneath which are the bodies of Popes Leo II . , Leo III . , and Leo IV. Below the next altar are the remains of Leo the Great.Above is an alto-relief by Algardi of the Pope forbidding Attila,King of the Huns, to advance on Rome. On the left is themonument of Pope Alexander VIII . , and opposite it an altar dedicated to St. Peter and St. John.The visitor should now pass in front of the Tribune, andenter the door in the screen erected at the sitting of the Council138 ROME.in 1870. Ifthe door be shut, application should be made at thesacristy. On the left is the monument to Pope Clement X. ,and above the opposite altar a mosaic of St. Peter raising Tabitha,after P. Costanzi. Above the next altar is a mosaic, generallyesteemed the finest in St. Peter's, representing Santa Petronilla.The original picture by Guercino is in the Capitoline Gallery.Over the next altar is a mosaic after Guido's picture of thearchangel Michael. Next is the monument of Clement XIII . ,by Canova, and above the opposite altar, a mosaic of Christsaving Peter from sinking.The north transept is now entered. Above the altar at theend is a mosaic representing the Martyrdom of St. Processus and St. Martinianus. Their remains rest beneath. The altars onthe right and left are surmounted by mosaics of St. Wenceslaus and St. Erasmus.Crossing from the monument of Clement XIII . , the visitorpasses on the left the monument of Benedict XIV. , and abovethe altar on the right a mosaic of the Emperor Valens faintingbefore St. Basil. Immediately opposite is the monument ofPope Gregory XVI. Under the altar to the left is the body ofSt. Gregory Nazianzen.To the right is the altar of St. Jerome, surmounted by amosaic copy of Domenichino's picture of the saint receiving his last Communion. To the left, between the piers, are monuments of Gregory XIII. and Gregory XIV. , the latter quite plain.The next chapel, proceeding toward the portico, is that ofthe Holy Sacrament. The tabernacle of gilt bronze and lapislazuli on the altar is extremely fine. The fresco above represents the Trinity. Above the altar to the right is a mosaic ofthe entombment, after Caravaggio, and in front, on the floor, isthe bronzed monument of Pope Sixtus IV. , and the flat gravestone of Pope Julius II. , one of the builders of St. Peter's.The visitor now passes a statue of the Countess Matilda ofTuscany (d. 1115) by Bernini, and the monument of PopeInnocent XII. , and reaches the second chapel of the Nave.Above the altar is a fine mosaic of the martyrdom of St. Sebastian, after Domenichino. The chapel contains monuments ofQueen Christina of Sweden (d. 1689) , daughter of Gustavus Adolphus, and of Pope Leo XII.The next chapel is called the Capella della Pietà, fromMichael Angelo's magnificent work of the Virgin with the dead Saviour on her knees.The Sacristy, entered from the corner of the south transept,THE VATICAN. 139was erected in 1775. It includes three chapels, the central onebeing octagonal, and ornamented with eight bigio columnsfrom Hadrian's villa at Tivoli. The Sacristy also contains some statues and pictures, and some remains of the old church. TheTreasury and Archives, which are not always shown, are in theSacristy.The Grottos, or Vaults beneath the church, are only partlyshown, and ladies are not admitted without special permissionfrom the Vicar- general; nor are visitors at present allowed toascend the Dome without special permission .THE VATICAN .The Vatican is said to be the most extensive palace in theworld. It was originally a dwelling- place for the Popes, andwas occupied by Charlemagne during his residence in Rome.Subsequently it fell into decay, and the Popes lived at theLateran. After their return from Avignon, the Vatican againbecame their official residence, and since that time the palacehas been enlarged and improved by various architects underseveral Popes. It is generally entered from the end of the rightcolonnade of the Piazza of St. Peter's. The costumes of theSwiss Guard at the entrance were designed by Michael Angelo.The visitor, after passing along the corridor, which was coveredin during the late pontificate, ascends the Scala Regia, amagnificent staircase designed by Bernini, for Pope AlexanderVII. The Sala Regia, to which this staircase led, is nowclosed to the public. It contains several frescoes, including oneof the Massacre of St. Bartholomew, and was the hall for thereception of foreign ambassadors. From the first landing of theScala Regia, a small baize-covered door leads into theSistine Chapel,so called from Pope Sixtus IV. , by whose orders it was erectedin 1473 , by Baccio Pinteli. Its dimensions are 133 feetby 45, and it has six windows on each side. Until recently,the Miserere was sung here each afternoon for three daysbefore Good Friday. The chapel is adorned with frescoes byMichael Angelo, which makes it one of the art treasures of the world. The fresco on the end wall is the famous LastJudgment, which was finished in 1541 , having occupied the140 ROME.master's time during seven years. The Saviour is in the centrein the Act of Judgment, on his right is the Virgin, and aroundare saints and martyrs, bearing the instruments of their sufferings. Below this group are angels sounding the last trumpet.On the left of the picture the dead are rising; to the right thedamned are being dragged down by devils, and ferried acrossthe Styx by Charon. In the extreme corner the painter hasdrawn Biagio of Cesena, who ventured to find fault with thework. In the semicircles at the top of the picture are the angelscarrying the instruments of the Passion.The flat portion of the ceiling contains nine pictures—1. The Separation of Light and Darkness.2. The Creation of the Sunand Moon.3. The Creation of Trees andPlants.4. The Creation of Adam.5. The Creation of Eve.6. The Temptation and theExpulsion from Paradise.7. The Sacrifice of Noah.8. The Deluge.9. The Intoxication of Noah.In the arched side of the ceiling are figures of the Prophetsand Sibyls, in the following order: -J. Jonah.2. The Lybian Sibyl.3. Daniel.4. The Cumaan Sibyl.5. Isaiah.6. The Delphic Sibyl.7. Zachariah.8. Joel.9. The Erythræan Sibyl.IO. Ezekiel.II. The Persic Sibyl.12. Jeremiah.Between the Prophets and Sibyls are groups illustrating thegenealogy of the Virgin, and in the angles of the ceiling areJudith and Holofernes.David and Goliath.The Brazen Serpent.The Execution of Haman.The frescoes on the walls are by masters of the fifteenthcentury.OVER THE CHIEF ENTRANCE.The Resurrection of our Saviour Ghirlandaio.On the left wall, looking towards, and commencing from,he chief entrance:-The Last SupperChrist giving the Keys to Peter The Sermon on the MountCosimo Rosselli.Pietro Perugino.Cosimo Rosselli.THE VATICAN. 14I4. The calling of Peter and Andrew . Domenico Ghirlandaio.5. The three incidents of the Temptation of our Lord6. The Baptism of Christ. Sandro Botticelli.Pietro Perugino.The Archangel Michael, bearing away thebody of Moses • Cecchino Salviati.On the right wall, looking towards, and commencing from ,the chief entrance:1. Moses blessing the Children of Israel.before his death2. The Rebellion of Korah, and the Punishment of Korah, Dathan, and Abiram3. Moses receiving the Commandments onthe Mount, The setting up of the GoldenCalf, and, Moses breaking the Tables of the Law4. The Overthrow of Pharaoh in the RedSea, and, Moses with the Children ofIsrael singing the song of deliverance .5. Moses slaying the Egyptian; driving theMidianite Shepherds from the well; andbefore the Burning Bush •6. The Journey of Moses and his wife Zipporah, into Egypt; Moses circumcising his sonLuca Signorelli.Sandro Botticelli.Cosimo Rosselli.Ibid.Sandro Botticelli.Luca Signorelli.Leaving the Sistine Chapel, the visitor should ascend thestairs to a closed door, at which he must knock; after passingthrough two rooms containing pictures by modern artists, anda third with an ancient mosaic pavement brought from Ostia,the walls decorated with frescoes of the promulgation of thedogma of the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin in 1854,he reaches three rooms called theStanze of Raphael.These rooms contain Raphael's masterpieces in fresco, whichwere painted by order of Julius II . The artist began them in1508.In the first room areOn the wall opposite the window, the Incendio del Borgo,which gives its name to the room. The fresco represents a greatfire, which occurred in 847, and was miraculously stayed byPope Leo IV.142 ROME.On the wall over and on the sides of the window, Leo III .before Charlemagne, painted by Permo del Vaga, from Raphael'sdesigns.On the wall on entering, the Coronation of Charlemagne.On the further wall, the victory of L- o IV. over the Sara- cens at Ostia.In the two last frescoes is a portrait of Pope Leo X.The ceiling of this room is painted by Pietro Perugino, themaster of Raphael. The subjects are the Almighty surroundedby Angels; the Saviour in glory; the Saviour and the Apostles;and the Saviour between Saints and Angels.The second room is called the Stanza della Segnatura.The ceiling is composed of four circular frescoes, representingTheology, Philosophy, Jurisprudence, and Poetry, which areillustrated in the four square frescoes representing the Fall, thestudy of the Globe, the Judgment of Solomon, and the Flayingof Marsyas.On the wall, as the visitor enters, The Dispute of the Sacra- ment, one of the finest of Raphael's frescoes . In the lowerportion Fathers of the Church and Divines who wrote on theSacramental presence. In the centre, the Trinity, the Virgin,and St. John the Baptist. In the upper portion the HeavenlyHost. On the right, St. Paul, Abraham, St. James, Moses,St. Lawrence, and St. George; on the left, St. Peter, Adam, St.John, David, St. Stephen, and a saint partly concealed by acloud.On the further wall, The School of Athens. The Philosophers and learned men of Athens gathered in the Poicile Stoa.In the centre of the picture Plato and Aristotle, and aroundthem Timidus, Socrates, Diogenes, and others.On the right wall, Jurisprudence. The fresco containsportraits of several cardinals, who afterwards sat on the Papal throne.On the left wall, Mount Parnassus; above the window,Apollo and the Muses; on the left, Homer, Virgil, and Dante.By the side of the window, Sappho, Corinna, Petrarch, Properand Anacreon; on the left and on the right, Pindar,Boccaccio, and others.Third Room is the Stanza of Heliodorus.the wall next the entrance, Pope Leo I. forbiddingapproach to Rome.the further wall, The Expulsion of Heliodorus from thee at Jerusalem.THE VATICAN. 143On the right wall, the Miracle of Bolsena-a priest convinced of the real presence by the miraculous bleeding of the Host.On the left wall, the deliverance of St. Peter from Prison.The frescoes in this room represent Divine assistance grantedto the Church against her foes. The ceiling contains subjectsfrom the old Testament, viz.:—The promise to Abraham .The Sacrifice of Isaac.The burning bush.Jacob's Vision.The next room is The Hall of Constantine. The greatfresco opposite the windows represents the Defeat of Maxentius by Constantine; on the walls to the right and left, thebaptism of Constantine by Pope Sylvester, and Constantine'saddress to his troops, and the Vision of the Cross. Betweenthe windows is the Gift of Rome to the Pope. The frescoesin this room are by Raphael's pupils. The ceiling contains apainting of a statue of Mercury thrown from its pedestal tomake way for the cross . The perspective is very remarkable.The Loggie of Raphael are now reached . TheseLoggie or balconies, now closed in with glass, surround threesides of the principal court of the Vatican . They are adornedwith pictures by various masters.ascends to the Picture Gallery or From the Lggie the visitorPinacoteca.Most of the pictures in these rooms were carried off toParis by Napoleon, but were restored in 1815. Instead, however, of replacing them in the churches to which they belonged,Pius VII. caused them to be collected in the Vatican.In the FIRST ROOM areSt. Jerome, a sketch Leonardo da Vinci.St. John the Baptist .Unbelief of St. ThomasAnnunciation, Adoration of the Magi, andthe Presentation in the Temple. Thesethree charming little pictures originally formed the predella to the Coronation ofthe Virgin, by Raphael, in the third room Madonna and Child, with St. Jerome .Mary Magdalen and the Dead Christ .Dead Christ with the Virgin, St. John , andthe Magdalen··Guercino.Guercino.•• Raphael.Francia.Andrea Mantegna.Carlo Crivelli.144 ROME.The Holy Family Benvenuto Garofolo.Faith, Hope, and Charity. Originally formedthe predella to his picture of the Entombment, now in the Borghese Gallery .St. Benedict, St. Placidus, and St. FlaviaHoly Family, with St. Catherine and St.Philip the Martyr .A Predella, with the Story and Miracles ofSt. Hyacinth .Marriage of St. Catherine of Alexandria,with the infant ChristVirgin •Story of St. Nicholas of BariAdoration of the ShepherdsRaphael.Pietro Perugino.· · Bonifazio.Benozzo Gozzoli.Murillo.Fra Angelico da Fiesole.Ibid.Murillo.The SECOND ROOм contains only three pictures.1. Transfiguration Raphael,This picture was not finished at the time of the artist'sdeath; the lower portion was completed by Giulio Romano.It is, however, considered Raphael's masterpiece, and when helay in state, it was placed at his head.2. Communion of St. Jerome Domenichino.The dying saint is represented as carried into the chapel ofhis monastery to receive the last sacrament. The picture waspainted for the monks of the Ara Coli, who, however, placedit in their lumber room, from which it was subsequentlyrescued by Poussin.3. The Madonna da Foligno Raphael.St. Jerome is depicted as presenting Sigismondo Conti, ofFoligno, to the Virgin, on whose left are St. Francis and St.John Baptist.THIRD ROOM.An Altar-piece, St. Sebastian and other Saints Titian.The figures represent St. Nicholas, in full episcopal costume;St. Ambrose, St. Catherine of Alexandria, St. Francis with theCross, St. Anthony of Padua with the Lily, and St. Sebastianpierced with arrows; above is the Virgin and Child surroundedAngels.t. Margaret of Cortona ·[artyrdom of St. LawrenceGuercino.Spagnoletto.THE VATICAN. 145Magdalen with Angels, bearing the Instruments of the PassionCoronation of the VirginResurrection .•The Madonna di Monte LucoNativity .AdorationCoronation of the VirginThis is one of his earliest works.• Guercino.Pinturicchio.Pietro Perugino( Giulio Romano &Francesco Penni.Giovanni Spagna.School of Perugino.Raphael.Madonna and Child enthroned, with St.Lawrence and St. Louis of Toulouse, onone side, and St. Hercolanus on the other Pietro Perugino.Virgin and Child, seated on a crescent moon,and surrounded by Cherubs Sassoferrato.This picture was presented to Pius IX. by Queen Isabellaof Spain.Entombment of ChristPortrait of A. Gritti, Doge of VeniceAltar- piece, in three compartmentsPope Sixtus IV. giving audienceAll the figures are portraits.Altar-pieceM. A. Caravaggio.Titian.Nicolò Alunno.Melozzo da Forli.Nicolo Alunno.FOURTH ROOM.Martyrdom of Processus and MartinianusCrucifixion of St. PeterMartyrdom of St. ErasmusAnnunciation •Miracle of St. GregoryEcstacy of Sta. MichelinaMadonna and Child, with Saints Vision of St. HelenaMadonna and Child .Madonna della CintolaThe SaviourVision of St. Romualdo•• Valentin.Guido.N. Poussin.Baroccio.A. Sacchi.Baroccio.Moretto.P. Veronese.Guido.Cesare da Sesto.•Correggio.A. Sacchi.The visitor must now return to the Piazzo of St. Peter's,and pass round to the back of the church through an archwayto the left, where, at the further end of the ascent, is theentrance to the Museum of Sculpture.JO146 ROME.Museum of Sculpture.The museum was founded by Clement XIV., 1769.75 , andhas constantly received additions. It now contains nearly 1800 works.Ascending the staircase, the visitor enters the Hall of the Greek Cross.The porphyry Sarcophagus on the right contained the body ofthe Empress Helena, mother of Constantine; that on the leftthe body of his daughter Constantia. Both were brought hereby Pius VI.On the floor are two beautiful ancient mosaics559. Young Augustus.574. The Venus of Cnidos .567. Priestess of Ceres.Praxiteles.Proceeding upstairs, the visitor reaches the Hall of theBiga, a small circular room, and the long Gallery of the Candelabra.The Hall of the Biga.623. The Biga-in the centre of the room. A chariot drawnby two horses; possibly a votive offering made by avictor in the circus races. It is in great part a restoration, the only antique portions being the body of the chariot and the barrel of one of the horses.608. The Indian Bacchus, commonly called Sardanapalus, fromthat name being cut along the border of the mantle.610. Bacchus.611. Alcibiades.614. Apollo615. Discobolus, an ancient copy of the original, by Naukides.616. Phocion.618. Discobolus, an ancient copy of the original, by Myron,found in 1781 at the Villa Palambara on the Esquiline.619. An Auriga. A charioteer; interesting as showing the dress.609, 613, 617, 621. Four small Sarcophagi, with bas-.eliefs,representing the races in the circus.THE VATICAN. 147Hall of the Candelabra.The objects in this room are of archæological rather than artistic importance.2 & 66. Nests, in each of which are five Cupids, supportedon pedestals sculptured in the form of trunks of trees.20. Sarcophagus of a child, whose recumbent figure is carved on the lid.31. Candelabrum.35. Candelabrum.48. Cinerary Urn of Egyptian granitello.49. Child plucking a bunch of Grapes.52. Recumbent Faun in green basalt.69. Vase of rare jasper, called Lysimaco.74. Satyr extracting a thorn from the foot of a Faun.81. Diana of Ephesus, found at Hadrian's Villa.82. Sarcophagus, with bas-relief representing the murder ofÆgisthus and Clytemnestra.112. Sarcophagus, with bas-relief representing the story of Portesilaus and Laodamia.143A. The Genius of Death.148A. Faun and Young Bacchus, found recently near the Scala Sancta.194. Child playing with a Goose.204. Sarcophagus, with the story of the Children of Niobe.208. Portrait statue of a Boy wearing the golden bulla.234. Candelabrum, found at Otricoli.237. Idem.253. Ceres, a statuette of considerable beauty.The Rotonda.Colossal Porphyry Tazza, found in ruins of Baths ofTrajan, 1550.Pavement (Mosaic) , found in ruins of Baths at Atricoli.535. Mother of the Muses.539. Jupiter. Copy of Jupiter Olympus, by Phidias (?) .540. Antinous found at Palestrina, 1733.541. Faustina, wife of Antoninus.542. Ceres.543. Hadrian, found in Mausoleum (p. 130).544. Colossal Hercules, purchased by Pope Pius IX. for £10,000.545. Antinous.546. The Barberini Juno.552. Juno Sospita.148 ROME.Hall of the Muses.Interesting Tablets of Greek Mosaic on floor.491. Silenus.496. Homer.499. Melpomene, the Muse of Tragedy.503. Thalia, the Comic Muse.504. Urania, from the Lancelotti Palace at Velletri. This statuehas been restored, with the attributes of the Muse ofAstronomy, to complete the nine; but it is doubtful ifit was originally a Muse.505. Clio, the Historic Muse.506. Demosthenes.508. Polyhymnia, the Muse of Memory.51. Erato, the Lyric Muse.514. Socrates.515. Calliope, the Epic Muse.516. Apollo Musagetes.517. Terpsichore, the Muse of Lyric Song and Dance.518. Themistocles.520. Euterpe, the Muse of Music, from the Lancelloti Palace at Velletri.523. Aspasia .525. Pericles.250. Cupid.Gallery.255. Paris.261. Penelope.262. Caligula.264. Apollo Sauroktonos, the Lizard Killer.265. Amazon: an exceedingly fine ancient copy.271. Posidippos, Greek Comic poet.390. Menander, the Prince of Greek comedy.393. Dido.396. The wounded . Adonis.401. Hemon and Antigone.405. One of the Daughters of Danaus, filling the sieve.406. Faun.414. Ariadne.Returning through the Hall of Animals, the visitorreaches a courtyard, in which are four cabinets, containing-THE TRASTEVERE. 1491. The Laocoon.2. The Apollo Belvedere.3. Perseus, Damoxenus the Boxer, and Creugas theBoxer. All by Canova.4. The Mercury of the Belvedere.These statues are the gems of the collection.Crossing the courtyard, in a recess on the left, is theMeleager, the slayer of the Caledonian boar; and further on,a Torso (probably of Hercules). A short descent leads to theChiaramonti Gallery, containing a number of ancientsculptures, including the Niobid and the young Augustus.At the end of the Chiaramonti Gallery is a closed gate,admitting to the Gallery of Inscriptions, and to the Library,which contains 24,000 manuscripts, many of which are of greatvalue, and 50,000 printed books. Very few of these, however,can be seen without special permission. The Great Hall is 230 feet long by 56 wide. Around the sides are several valuablepresents of the Popes, including the font in which the PrinceImperial, son of Napoleon III., was baptized.In this wing, to the right, at the end of the Great Hall, is acollection of Christian antiquities from the Catacombs, severalfine ancient Roman frescoes, including the Aldobrandine Nuptials, and a number of ancient tile and brick stamps.The Etruscan Museum contains a quantity of valuableand interesting antiquities, discovered in making excavations on the sites of ancient Etrurian cities.The Egyptian Museum contains a collection of Egyptian antiquities similar to those in the British Museum and the Louvre.To the south of the Vatican and of St. Peter's is the districtknown as the Trastevere, which, though it cannot vie withthe part of the city on the left bank of the Tiber, containsseveral interesting palaces and churches.The Church of St. Onofrio is at the northern pointof the Monte Gianiculo, the ancient Janiculum, and containsthe tomb of Tasso, who died in the adjoining monastery, April25th, 1595. This monument is to the left on entering thechurch, and marks the place of his interment. The body was,however, removed in 1857 to the adjoining chapel. The roomin which Tasso died, and his oak in the gardens, are shown tothe public.150 ROME.Leaving the church and descending bythe Via della Lungarapast the Botanical Gardens, theis reached.Corsini PalaceThe fine collection of paintings is shown from 9 to 3 onMondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays.FIRST ROOM.9. The Plague at Milan Muratori.10. Marriage of St. Catherine of Alexandria . Carlo Maratta.15. St. Catherine of Alexandria holding the InfantJesus in her arms17. Men Playing at Cards in a Village Tavern18. A Wine Shop20. A Bambochade24. View of the Port of Venice26. View of VenicePortion of a Christian Sarcophagus, sculpturedwith a representation of the Vintage. Over the door.Pagan Sarcophagus. Tritons and Nereids, foundat Syracuse.SECOND ROOM.26. Adam and Eve mourning the Death of Abel29. The Prodigal Son31. Portrait ofa Woman 32. Lucretia40. Jacob's DreamZoboli.Locatelli.Ibid.Ibid.Canaletto.Ibid.• Cerquozzi.Ibid.Luini.Carlo Maratta.Macon.THIRD ROOM.I. Ecce hom*o2. Virgin and Infant Christ9. Virgin and Infant Christ10. Birth of the Virgin.15. Virgin and Infant Christ17. Virgin and Infant Christ .28. Interior of a Tavern38. The Meet44. Pope Julius II.49. St. Apollonia .50. Philip II. , King of SpainGuercino.Carlo Dolco.. Andrea del Sarti.Ludovico Caracci.Andrea del Sarto.Michael Angelo da Caravaggio.Teniers.Wouvermans.Raphael..Carlo Dolci..Titian.CORSINI PALACE. 15151. Infant Jesus and St. John the Baptist52. Vanity .53. Marriage of St. Catherine of Alexandria81. The Annunciation .82. St. John the Baptist 88. Ecce hom*o89. Ecce hom*oFOURTH ROOM.• Carlo Cignani.Saraceni.Paolo Veronese.Vasari.Carlo Maratta.Carlo Dolci.· Guido.II. Herodias, with the head of St. John the Baptist18. St. Andrew kneeling before his cross19. Martyrdom of St. Peter27. Two Heads .28. St. Jerome praying in the DesertGuido.Andrea Sacchi.Guido.40. Faustina Maratta, daughter of Carlo Maratta.41. The Fornarina44. A HareGenius of fishing, statue .L. Caracci.Titian.Giulio Romano.Albert Dürer.• Tenerani.Genius of hunting, statue Ibid.FIFTH ROOM.12. St. Agnes 14. Annunciation .16. Holy FamilyCarlo Dolci.Carlo Maratta.Schidone.23. Virgin and Infant Jesus24. Our Saviour and the Samaritan Womin 25. Infant Christ .28. Our Saviour ordering St. Peter to pay the tributeAlbani.Guercino.Battoni.with the money found in the fish's belly Luca Giordano.32. Angel of the Annunciation Guercino.37. Our Lady of Sorrows . Guido.38. Ecce hom*o . Ibid.39. St. John the Evangelist .Ibid.40. The Annunciation Guercino.45. The Crucifixion Guido.SIXTH ROOM.15. Head of an Old Man Rubens.31. The Wife of Martin Luther21. The Two Children of Charles V.35. Portrait of Martin Luther40. Cardinal Divitus de Bibiena43. Cardinal Albert of BrandenburgTitian.Holbein.Holbein.Bronzino.Albert Dürer.152 ROME.47. Portrait of Rubens .50. Cardinal Alexander Farnese54. Lorenzo de Medicis67. Portrait of Mary Queen of Scots 68. Cardinal Nereus Corsini11. Woman and Child .13. LandscapeCampiglia.Titian.Bronzino.Oliver.Bacciccio.SEVENTH ROOM.Murillo.Gaspar Poussin.15. Angels removing the arrows from St. Sebastian Rubens.18. Our Saviour bearing His Cross ·22. The Descent of the Holy Spirit upon the ApostlesGarofolo.Fra Angelico.23. Last Judgment • Ibid.24. Ascension Ibid.28. A Landscape Orrizonte.30. The Woman taken in Adultery Titian.34. A Landscape .Orrizonte.EIGHTH ROOM.2. Holy Family 6. A Cattle-field8. Ecce hom*o10. History of Niobe11. Holy Family II.13. Contemplation•15. Nymph surprised by a Satyr 18. Susanna and the Elders21. Village by the seaside.23. Sheep24. St. Jerome writing his Commentaries25. St. Jerome meditating upon Death 26. Portrait of a Florentine Senator40. A Faun .41. A Pastoral Scene•••Francia.Claude.Vandyke.P. da Caravaggio.. Nicholas Poussin.Guido.Gaspar Poussin.Domenichino.Gaspar Poussin.Ibid.Guercino.Spagnoletto.Bronzino.Gaspar Poussin.• Ibid.CABINET.10. Ecce hom*o •22. A Triptych2. An Interior9. Pope Innocent X.26. Portrait of a WomanNINTH ROOM.• Guido.Orcagna (?) .Teniers.Velasquez.Bronzino.ENVIRONS OF ROME. 15328.Battle Pieces 29.30. The Virgin visiting St. Elizabeth33. Holy Family .35. A Battle Piece36. Portrait of a young Woman49. The Virgin and Infant Christ .Salvator Rosa.• Giorgione.Barocci.Salvator Rosa.Titian.Gherardesca.Opposite the Corsini Palace is the Farnesina , a villaadorned with frescoes by Raphael, illustrating the story ofCupid and Psyche. These beautiful frescoes are only shownon the 1st and 15th of the month.Continuing along the Via della Scala, the visitor arrives atthe Church of Sta. Maria in Trastavere , which hasbeen judiciously restored. A small church is said to have beenbuilt here in the year 222; but the present building dates fromthe 12th century, except the rich ceiling, which was erectedin 1617, and the portico, which was rebuilt for Clement XI.( 1700-21). The floor is of Opus Alexandrinum, and the naveis divided from the aisles by granite columns surmounted bybeautiful capitals. The Chapel of the Sacrament has somegood frescoes. The mosaics of the apse date from the 12thcentury, and are much esteemed .On the Island of St. Bartholomew, in the middle ofthe Tiber, is the church of S. Bartolommeo, built in the 11thcentury by the Emperor Otho II. It has, however, been restored on different occasions, and possesses no features of interest.Much of the information in the foregoing pages has beentaken, by permission, from Mr. Shakspere Wood's " NewCuriosum Urbis: a Guide to Ancient and Modern Rome."ENVIRONS OF ROME ."Rome itself is a place of never- dying and ever- varyinginterest; but the Campagna of Rome is a pure source ofunfailing delight. " So says Dean Alford, speaking of thatvast plain of volcanic origin surrounding the Eternal City,stretching from the sea-coast to the Sabine Mountains, andaffording innumerable objects of interest for walks, and rides,and drives.Roads, whose lava pavement has in some cases borne the154 ROME.wear and tear of twenty centuries, cross the great plain invarious directions. On every hand are ruins of colossal aqueducts-numerous crosses that tell their tales of outrage andmurder-the conical huts of the shepherds-tall towers commemorating the struggles of rival factions-hundreds of tombs,dating from medieval times-and, midst all these, a coarse,rank growth of thistle, and hemlock, and asphodel. Such isthe Campagna.As we approach the verge of this district, we pass continually the sites of Old World cities, that alternately worriedor sided with Rome, as occasion prompted. Streets, and shops,and temples still show what Ostia was-scattered fragments ofruin tell of Tusculum, and Veii, and Gabii; whilst variationsin the surface of the ground alone tell of Fidena and Collatia,Crustumerium and Antemnæ. But amongst the surroundinghills, the ancient cities are in better preservation, and lovelytemples, as at Tivoli, or massive walls as at Cori, take us backthrough the ages to the days when Latium was in its glory.66'Nothing can be more rich and varied , with every kind ofbeauty, than the Campagna of Rome; sometimes, as aroundOstia, flat as an American prairie, with miles of canni andreeds rustling in the wind, fields of exquisite feathery grasseswaving to and fro; and forests of tall, golden-trunked stonepines poising their spreading umbrellas of rich green high inthe air, and weaving a murmurous roof against the sun - sometimes drear, mysterious, and melancholy, as in the desolatestretches between Civita Vecchia and Rome, with lonelyhollows and hills without a habitation , where sheep and oxenfeed, and the wind roams over treeless and deserted slopes,and silence makes its home; sometimes rolling like an inlandsea whose waves have suddenly been checked and stiffened ,green with grass, golden with grain, and gracious with myriads.of wild flowers, where scarlet poppies blaze over acres and acres,and pink-frilled daisies cover the vast meadows, and pendantvines shroud the picturesque ruins of antique villas, aqueducts,and tombs, or droop from medieval towers and fortresses."-Story's Roba di Roma.THE VIA APPIA,issuing from the Porta S. Sebastiano, affords magnificentprospects, and leads to the following and many other ancient tombs, ruins of aqueducts, etc. Church of Domine quoENVIRONS OF ROME. 155Vadis, where the Saviour is said to have checked the attemptedflight of Peter; Catacombs of St. Calixtus ( 14 mile) ,and Catacombs of St. Pretextatus opposite. Churchof S. Sebastiano ( 1 mile) , a great resort of pilgrims tothe catacombs of the martyrs ( 1 fr. ) , a " footprint of Christon stone, etc. Some paintings and statues adorn the church(p . 115).The Circus of Maxentius ( A.D. 311 ) is a little fartheron; with accommodation for 30,000 to view the chariot races.Near by is the Tomb of Cecilia Metella , 65 feet indiameter, with frieze of flowers, etc. The excavated part of the ancient Via Appia is reached 2 miles from Rome. Ruins oftombs are continuous; the scenery is increasingly beautiful.Pass the walls of the ancient Church of S. Maria Nuova,near which are ruins known as Roma Vecchia. Near thesixth milestone the Casale Rotondo, a large tomb, affordsa fine view . A little farther on is the Tor di Selce (towerof basalt) , built by the Normans on an ancient tomb. Thenceto Albano the route is of no special interest .THE VIA APPIA NUOVA,issuing from the Porta S. Giovanni, passes the remains of theancient Via Latina, with very interesting tombs, etc. Onthe divergent road to Frascati, with fine views of ancientaqueducts en route, is the Porta Furba (2 miles) , an arch ofthe Acqua Felice, with glorious prospects of the Campagna and the Albine and Sabine Mountains. This is one of the mostattractive walks or short drives in the vicinity of Rome.THE ACQUA ACETOSAissues from the Porta del Popolo. It is best to get quicklyover the uninteresting route to the Ponte Molle by carriage oromnibus; then pursue the road by the river, with charmingprospects, to the highly-reputed mineral springs, the Acqua Acetosa. Return to the city by a direct route past the Villadi Papa Giulio, erected by Vignola for Julius III.MONTE MARIO.After leaving the Porta Angelica and following the roadI mile, ascend the winding carriage road or steep footpaths. Fineviews from the summit, and better still from the Villa156 ROME.Mellini ( fr.) . "Here we stood on a most delicious evening," says Dr. Arnold, "the ilex and the gum cistus in greatprofusion about us, the slope below full of vines and olives, thecypresses above our heads, and before our eyes all that one hasread of in Roman history—the course of the Tiber between thehills that bound it, coming down from Fidenæ and receivingthe Anio and Allia; beyond, the Apennines, the distant andhigher summits still white with snow; in front, the Albanhills; on the right, the Campagna to the sea; and, just beneathus, the whole length of Rome, ancient and modern, St. Peter'sand the Colosseum rising as the representatives of each; thePantheon, the Aventine, the Quirinal, all the well- known objectsdistinctly laid before us. One may safely say that the worldcannot contain many views of such mingled beauty and interest as this!"THE VIA NOMENTANAissues from the Porta Pia, passes the Villa Torlonia , withpleasant gardens and artificial ruins ( Wednesdays, 11.0 to 4.0,except in summer). Church of St. Agnese Fuori:interesting catacombs, with chapels, mural paintings, etc. Crossthe Anio (2 miles from city) by the Ponte Nomentano. Picturesque Casale dei Pazzi (3 miles) . Mons Sacer justbeyond.THE VIA ARDEATINA NUOVA.Leave the city by the Porta S. Paola. After passing the Churchof S. Paolo Fuori ( p. 127 ) , and leaving the divergent ViaOstiensis on the right, the Abbey delle Tre Fontane(1 fr. ) is soon reached. It is said that St. Paul was beheaded here;that his head rebounded three times, and that at each spot afountain welled forth. There are three churches, approachedbyan archway. The first is SS. Vincenzio and Anastasio,restored in 1221 by Honorius III .; paintings recently restored .The second is the circular S. Maria Scala Coeli , namedfrom a vision, in which S. Bernard saw ascend on a ladder toheaven the souls his prayers had released from purgatory.Notice the mosaics on the tribune, by F. Zuccaro. The thirdchurch is the S. Paolo alle Tre Fontane; it contains thethree springs and a marble column on the spot where theApostle Paul's martyrdom is alleged to have taken place.ENVIRONS OF ROME. 157THE VIA PRÆNESTINAissues from the Porta Maggiore. As the city is left behind,the road soon affords fine mountain views. The Tor deiSchiavi (2 miles) is an interesting mediæval ruin, once forming part of a palace of the Gordians ( A.D. 238 ) . There are some remains of a Temple of Apollo close by. This is astriking scene, with a background of violet mountains, and is afavourite spot with artists.We must briefly notice a few other objects in the immediateneighbourhood of Rome, which the tourist can visit as time andopportunity afford.Grove of the Arvales, by the Via Campana, very in.teresting to archæologists; and Catacombs of S. Generosa,in proximity. Temple of the Deus Rediculus (25 c.),a Roman tomb of the time of Hadrian; Grotto of Egeria,really the remains of a narble Nymphæum; and Church ofS. Urbano, a Roman tomb converted ( 11th cent. ) into achurch. These three objects are reached by the field road fromthe Via Appia, near the Church of Domine quo Vadis.Hill where Antemnæ stood , at the junction of the Anio andTiber. Ponte Salerno, and site of ancient Fidena; fewtraces. Prima Porta and the Villa of Livia (7 miles) ,a pleasant excursion. The Villa Madama ( fr. ), by G.Romano, from Raphael's designs for Cardinal Giulio de'Medici, afterwards Clement VII. Notice fountain basin, alsofrescoes and mouldings in the loggia, by G. Romano and Giov.da Udine.THE ALBAN MOUNTAINS.By taking the train to Frascati or Albano (over-night, ifpossible), the tourist may " do " the chief places of interest in the Alban Mountains in a day; but several days may be verypleasantly spent in this delightful district.Frascati (p. 163) , with its crowd of beautiful villas, isreached by train in 30 minutes. The villas, always open topublic inspection, are the chief feature of the town. The principal are the Villa Aldobrandini, with paintings by theCavaliere d'Arpino, and the Villa Ruffinella, or Tusculana ( 16th cent. ), successively owned by Lucien Buonaparte,Maria Christina, Queen of Sardinia, and Victor Emmanuel.158 ROME.The Villa Falconieri ( 1550) is the oldest, erected byBorromini; pictures by C. Maratta and others.The ruins of Tusculum: long lines of wall, and shatteredremains of amphitheatre, citadel, etc. , cover the summit andsides of the mountain, on a lower declivity of which standsFrascati. Supposed remains of Cicero's Tusculan Villa are shown.The Grotto Ferrata is 3 miles from Frascati, a Greek monastery, founded A.D. 1002, fortified in the middle ages.Chapel of Saint Nilus containsFrescoes (Life of the saint) .In the Abbey areMadonnaBust of DomenichinoSeveral ancient sculptures, etc.Domenichino.· Ann. Caracci.Benincampi.The fairs at Grotto Ferrata, March 28th and Sept. 8th,attract many.Marino, 4 miles from Grotto Ferrata, is the most picturesque of Roman villages, situated at an elevation of 1322 feet. It is famous for its wine.Cathedral. St. BartholomewS. Trinita. ATrinity ••Madonna della Grazie. St. Rochus ·Guercino.Guido Reni.Domenichino.Steam tramways start from outside the Porta S. Lorenzo.Rocca di Papa, elevation 2647 feet. Private lodgings may be had. From hence, the ascent of Monte Cavo (anc.Mons Albanus) is made ( 3130 feet) . Here is the Via Triumphalis, where generals who were refused a Roman triumphwere wont to celebrate one for themselves. Also the Campod'Annibale, the very doubtful situation of Hannibal's campin his campaign against Rome. From various points on thismountain, splendid views are obtained of Rome and the surrounding country. The Chapel of the Madonna del Tufo(2323 feet) should be visited if time allows.The Lago di Albano is a crater of an extinct volcano,6 miles in circumference. The Monastery of Palazzuolo( 13th century) is on the E. bank. Of Alba Longa, founded,according to tradition, by Ascanius, the son of Æneas, no traces remain.Albano (p. 163) is reached from Rome by rail, in aboutI hour to station Albano or La Cecina, 2 miles from town,omnibus 60 c. Carriage from Rome by the Via Appia, 20 to25 fr. This town is a favourite resort of Romans and othersENVIRONS OF ROME. 159from June to October. A few days at Albano can be wellspent in excursions to the surrounding district.Castel Gandolfo, a summer residence of the Popes, issolely attractive for its situation . A descent of about fifteenminutes brings to the noted Emissarius of Lake Albano.It is a tunnel of 1 mile in length, from 7 to 10 feet in height.During the siege of Veii, in 397 B.C. , the Alban Lake threatened to overflow and inundate the surrounding country, and theRomans are said to have constructed this tunnel, though it isprobably of even earlier date. After the lapse of at least twentytwo centuries, it is still used as a watercourse, to carry away the overflow from the lake. The adjacent Bagni di Dianaare the supposed remains of a Nymphæum of Domitian, oneof those retreats where, amidst statues and fountains, theancients loved to recline in still seclusion during the heat ofsummer.Ariccia, where Horace spent his first night on his famousjourney to Brundusium, has always been noted for its woods.An imposing Viaduct ( 1846-1863 by Pius IX. ) connectsAriccia with Albano. Notice also from the valley below the Roman arches supporting the Via Appia. The Vald'Ariccia is the spot where Egeria mourned for Numa, andbecame a fountain. The Palazzo Chigi (by Bernini) has afine park.The pretty town of Genzano stands on the Lake of Nemi.The famous Infiorata di Genzano, or flower festival, is (notannually) held here on the 8th day after Corpus Christi: processions, fireworks, etc. Civita Lavinia, p. 163 ( anc. Lanuvium) , and Velletri , p. 164 ( anc. Velitro), may be visited fromGenzano. The former has some ancient remains. Both displayhne prospects, and are near stations on the railway from Rome.The Lake of Nemi is an extinct crater 3 miles in circumference. Here, in old times, was the sacred grove of Diana,and the abode of the official mentioned by Macaulay, as"The priest who slew the slayer and shall himself be slain. "He held his office by virtue of having killed his predecessor,and was bound to fight for it against all applicants for theposition. The medieval town of Nemi, with lovely views of the lake, etc., is 24 miles from Genzat.o.The above- named are the chief points of interest in the Alban Mountains. But those whose time al'ows further research will160 ROME.be rewarded by the discovery of many objects worthy of attention, and an endless variety of charming scenery.THE SABINE MOUNTAINSbound the Roman plain on the E., and afford a striking contrast to the flat and desolate Campagna. " Gentle hills with littlelakes embosomed in them, swelling into bold and lofty mountairs, crowned with extensive forests; cascades dashing downtheir steeps, and smiling plains intervening; brilliant skies andbalmy airs usually prevalent; and the scenery deriving peculiar interest from the edifices noble in ruin which adorn the browof almost every hill. " Here a long succession of illustriousancients retired from noisy Rome to muse and study. Hereimaginative artists like Claude and Poussin always found freshinspiration.A visit to Tivoli must suffice for those who are pressed fortime, but a tour of four or five days, commencing at Frascati(after viewing the Alban district) , passing through the Sabinedistrict, and thence from Tivoli to Rome, is much preferable.In visiting Tivoli, arrangement should be made with thedriver to follow the road past the Villa of Hadrian.Hadrian's costly buildings, which, with the gardens, etc. , oncecovered several square miles, were destroyed by Totila ( sixthcentury) . Numbers of statues, etc. , have been removed hence to churches and museums. Remains of Palace, Theatre,Thermæ, Canopus, Hippodrome, etc., are to be seen.Tivoli (anc. Tibur) , the residence of Mæcenas, and afavourite haunt of Horace, existed as a colony of the Siculi 500years before Rome had a name. Camillus conquered it B.C.380. A lady traveller thus describes this pleasant spot:-" Amidst the dreary hills of the Campagna you would neverdream that a spot so romantic was at hand. For twenty tediousmiles you cross its bare and houseless track; you ascend the hill of Tivoli amidst the sad sameness of the pale olive; youenter its narrow streets, and behold nothing but meanness andmisery; you walk but a few steps, and what a prospect ofindescribable beauty bursts upon your view! Tremendousprecipices of rock, down which roars a headlong torrent-treesand trailing plants shading its foaming course-cliffs crownedwith the most picturesque ruins, and painted in tints whosebeauty art can never imitate-hills and woods, and hangingvineyards; and Tivoli itself, which, peeping out amidst theENVIRONS OF ROME. 161dark cypresses at the top of these sunny banks, looks like an earthly paradise."""The celebrated Falls are perhaps the chief attraction . Fineviews of these are obtained from several points-from theRound Terrace and other points above, and from theSiren's Cave and other spots below. The Temple of theSibyl (or of Vesta? ) , of which ten Corinthian columns stillstand on the rocks overhanging the waterfalls, is one of themost elegant among existing relics of antiquity. It was oncebought by an English nobleman, and the stones were numberedfor transmission to his park, but the Roman governmentstopped the negotiation. The so- called Villa of Mæcenas,by the Cascatelle, or small waterfall on a branch of the Anio,affords splendid views. Many ancient remains of more or lessuncertain villas, etc., are pointed out as the visitor makes thetour of the hill (about two miles) , through a delightful suc- cession of varied scenery. The Villa d'Este ( 1549) retainssome traces of its former magnificence, such as frescoes byZuccari and Muziano, garden terraces, grottoes, cascades, etc.The Villa Braschi and terrace of the Jesuits' Collegeare worth visiting for the views.From Tivoli , local conveyances take the tourist for fourfrancs to Subiaco, a town of medieval appearance, withdelightful environs. The Three Monasteries are famous.The first, founded in 530 by St. Benedict, is now entirelymodern, but contains some antiquities. The first printed bookin Italy was produced here in 1465 by Pannartz and Schweinheim. The second monastery ( 1052 ) is the earliest pointed edifice in Italy. The third was built in 1235. The Churchof S. Scholastica (975 , but modernized in 18th century)has fine carved choir-stalls. S. Benedetto, or Il SagroSpeco, is above the monasteries. In the Corridor, scenesfrom lives of SS. Benedict and Scholastica. In the Chapels,paintings by Conxolus (earlier than Cimabue). In the Grottoof S. Benedict, statue by Bernini. In the garden are beautiful roses, originally thorns planted by S. Benedict for use inself- mortification, changed to roses by S. Francis in 1223 .Palestrina (22 m. from Rome, 12 from Frascati , 4 fromTivoli) , anc. Præneste, was captured by Camillus in 380 B.C.;this town had a terrible history in Roman and also in mediævaltimes. Thrice burnt and thrice rebuilt, it is now a picturesqueand precipitous but narrow- streeted and dirty town . The following are its chief features of interest: Temple of For- II162 COAST OF LATIUM.tune, said to have been built by Sylla when conscience- strickenfor ravaging the town. Palazzo Barberina, with wonderful mosaic of an inundation of the Nile. Ancient Walls ofCyclopæan stone- work and of later brick masonry. Castel S.Pietro on summit of the hill ( 2546 ft. ) , formerly the Citadel (Arx); the prospects are worth the ascent. The Fortezzawas a castle of the Colonnas, built 1322. Excavations madeat Palestrina have yielded a rich harvest for museums, etc. Olevano ( 12 m. from Palestrina) . No attractions in thetown; but its environs are of singular beauty, especially roundthe Casa Baldi , much haunted by artists. Three charmingroutes lead from Olevano to Subiaco.Monte Gennaro (4800 ft . ) can be ascended from Tivoli in about 6 hours.The Valley of Licenza, the site of Horace's SabineFarm, may be visited from either Tivoli or Subiaco.THE VOLSCIAN MOUNTAINS,with Cori and Segni, are worth a visit if time allows. Thetrain should be taken to Velletri, and thence carriage to Cori,II m. A local guide ( to 1 fr. ) will point out the places ofinterest. From Cori a bridle path (5-6 hours) conducts toSegni. Or Segni, with its massive walls, gates, etc. , can bevisited direct by rail.THE ETRUSCAN TOWNSof Veii, Galera, Bracciano, Cære, etc., are chieflyvisited by persons interested in archaeological pursuits. Malaria prevents much exploration of this district in summer time.The same remark applies to theCOAST OF LATIUM.Excursions can be made in the spring to Ostia, the ancientport of Rome, now a poor village of scarce 100 inhabitants.The route is by the Via Ostrensis, and much of the way isthrough a region almost devoid of fields, dwellings, trees, landmarks, or other signs of cultivation . The sea has receded 2 m.since Ostia was a port. Here Sta. Monica, mother of S. Augustin, died. Recent explorations have laid bare a considerableROME TO NAPLES. 163portion of this ancient seaport-temples, tombs, baths, dwelling- houses, and shops, many in good preservation . Somepaintings and reliefs from Ostia will be found in the Lateran at Rome.Castel Fusano is 2 m. from Ostia; it is in the midst ofa beautiful pine forest; hence to the sea, a pleasant walk, 1m. Porto has little to interest. Fiumicino, 2 m. fromOstia, Castle, Tower, etc. The Isola Sacra is in the TiberDelta. Tourists should beware of the cattle pastured here,which are at times vicious.Porto d'Anzio, 33 m. from Rome, is a much-frequentedbathing-place in the early summer; after June fever renders itdangerous. Anc. Antium, the " lovely Antium " of Horace,and the former capital of the Volsci, originally stood here.Claudius and Nero were born at Antium, and many RomanEmperors lived here at certain seasons of the year. In the 14thcentury it was entirely deserted, but the harbour was restoredby the Popes in the 16th century.A picturesque walk by the shore ( 13 m. ) leads to Nettuno,a fishing town, originally a Saracenic settlement. Followingthe coast mile, Astura, is reached. Here will be foundnumerous remains of Roman Villas, etc.FROM ROME TO NAPLES.The railway from Rome to Naples ( 164 miles) follows,during a considerable portion of its course, the line of theancient Via Latina. As the route lies through a district celebrated alike for the grandeur of its scenery, and the multiplicityof its historical associations, the tourist will have no lack ofobjects to engage his attention . The first part of the journeyis through numerous cuttings in solid lava, through olivegrounds and vineyards without end, or over plains strewn in alldirections with ancient ruins. Ciampino, branch line to Frascati (p. 157) . Marino, town 1 mile from station on hills to left .Notice Castel Gandolfo on olive-covered hill; Albano andLariccia with connecting viaduct, and Monte Cavo rising abovewith its white- walled monastery. La Cecchina, station forAlbano (5 miles) , omnibus meets train. Diligence to Portod'Anzio ( 18 miles) . The line passes through some deep cuttings, and crosses a stream from the Lake of Nemi. The firstglimpse of Monte Circello is here gained (right) . Observe thetower of Monti Giovi (site of Corioli (left) , Civita Lavinia.On the hill see the village (anc. Lanuvium) with mediæval164 ROME TO NAPLES.tower. The line now crosses numerous ravines, and passesthrough the district where the Genzano wine is produced. Then over a fire viaduct of iron to Velletri. This is a town ofover 16,000 inhabitants, formerly the Volscian city of Velitræ.It resisted the attacks of Rome from the reign of Ancus Martiustill 338 B.C. It was fortified by Coriolanus, and occupied by Belisarius. It was the reputed birthplace of Augustus. In1744, Charles III . defeated the Austrians on the adjacent hills.Velletri is a badly-built town on volcanic soil; the walls andtowers are fast decaying. Principal attractions--the Bell-towerof Santa Maria in Trivio, 1353; the Palazzo Lancellotti, finestaircase, splendid views from its terraces; the Cathedral ( St.Clement) , rebuilt 1660, has a Coronation of the Virgin, andsome legends of saints by Giovanni Balducci; the Church ofS. Maria dell' Orto, contains a Virgin and Child, supported byangels (dressed as ancient Romans) by Gio. Battista Rossiti.From Velletri, Cori and Norma (anc. Cora and Norba)can be visited by diligence. Here will be found walls of massive masonry and ruins of gates and temples of great interestto antiquarians.After leaving Velletri, we pass Valmontone, Monte Forlino,and Segni, surrounded by numerous classic ruins of great interest, historically and artistically. Mountains rise on eitherhand to a height of 4000 feet. Notice the high, square tower of the ruined castle of Piombinara. From Valmontone anexcursion can be made in a light carriage to Palestrina, 8miles distant. See the town of Segni on the heights 7 milesfrom the railway station . Running parallel with the riverSacco, the railway reaches Anagni station, 4 miles from the town. Some trains are met by public conveyance ( 1 fr. )Anagni was once an important town, and the occasional residence of Popes during the middle ages. Here occurred thethree days' imprisonment of Pope Roniface VIII. in 1303 ,through a French plot, and his liberation by the people. Cattedrale di S. Maria (rebuilt 11th century) . Contains mosaic floor ( 1226) , by Giov. Cosimati; fine white marble candela- brum, inlaid with mosaics (Vasaletto); frescoes, sepulchralmonuments, etc.; statue (probably Boniface VIII. ) , high up,outside church. Municipio, or Town Hall, on arches. Ruins of ancient walls, baths, etc.The railway now follows the river bank to Scurgola, then along a deep ravine to the plain under Ferentino. Thisown is 3 miles from the station, on a hill ( 1450 feet) . Feren-ROME TO NAPLES. 165tino (anc. Ferentinum) possesses many interesting antiquities;among them the Cathedral, castle, town walls, gateway, etc.overVarious interesting and picturesque spots can be visited fromFerentino, or from the next station , Frosinone. Among themAlatri (anc. Aletrium) , with the wonderful fortificationsof stupendous stone- work, ancient castle, aqueduct, etc.; theGrotta di Collepardo, 2000 feet into limestone rock, withbeautiful stalactites; the curious Pozzo di Antullo , anextensive pit one-third of a mile in circumference, and 200 feetdeep, sides covered with stalactites, and the bottom angrown jungle; and also Veroli ( anc. Verule ) , and Casamari.Frosinone is beautifully situated 2 miles from railway. Popu- lation 8000. A few relics of antiquity may be observed.Ceccano, on the right bank of the Sacco, was formerly dangerousto travellers from its proximity to the villages of Lonino andTerracina, then infested with brigands. Then we pass throughfive miles of vineyards to Pofi, and Castro station, and thenceto Ceprano, formerly the frontier station of the Papal dominions. Here the traveller should dine. The Town of Cepranois one mile distant from the station on the right bank ofthe Liris. About a mile from the town the Liris joins theTolero, and forms the Garigliano. Notice the bridge erectedon Roman foundations by Pius VI. In the middle ages, Cepranowas of considerable importance, and is connected with many historical events. It was the residence of Pope Pascal II.during his struggles with the Emperor, Henry IV.; Gregory X.made his entry here on his return from the Holy Land toresume the Papal throne. Its invasion by Charles of Anjouwith the attendant circ*mstances of treachery, etc., is alludedto in Dante's Inferno. The views from the railway station arevery beautiful and extensive. On the ridges of the Apenninesnotice the towns of Monte S. Giovanni, Veroli, Bauco, and theCitadel of Alatri. On right bank of the Liris are theremains of the ancient Roman colony of Fregellæ, which provoked the rage of Hannibal by impeding his progress . A goodexcursion from Ceprano can be made by taking rail to Isoletta,or Rocca Secca; and then by diligence to the celebrated Fallsof the Liris at Isola; the site of Cicero's Villa atArpino; and return thence to the railway station of SanGermano.After leaving Ceprano and crossing the Liris, the train nextarrives at Isoletta, and then at Rocca Secca ( daily mail diligenceto Sora). The railway now emerges on the broad and fertile166 ROME TO NAPLES.plain or valley of the Garigliano. On the hills to the left, seea ruined castle, the birthplace of S. Thomas Aquinas. On theplain, Louis of Anjou defeated Ladislaus of Naples in 1411 .Palazzuolo and Piedimonte are seen at the foot of the hills to theleft. Monte Casino now comes in view. Aquino station , townI mile (anc. Aquinum) was the birthplace of Juvenal and theEmperor Pesceninus Niger. This district abounds in remainsof theatres, temples, arches, etc., etc. Pontecorvo (3 milessouth; 10,700 inhabitants) . Medieval associations and remains.San Germano, or Casino station , is next reached.The town ofSan Germano or Casino,is three-quarters of a mile distant from the station; carriage, fr.It was built in part on the site of ancient Casinum, a Romancolony dating from B.C. 312. Ruins of Theatre; Amphitheatre; Villa of M. Terrentius Varro (scene of MarcAntony's orgies); ancient Tomb now forming the Chiesadel Crocifisso , ancient pavements with tracks of chariotwheels, etc., etc. Church of S. Maria dell cinquetorre, with ancient marble columns; paintings by LucaGiordano ( 1677) , and outside the door, a colossal vase dedicated to Hercules.In mediæval times San Germano was an important town.It was taken by Otho IV. in 1210, and was the scene ofFrederick II.'s engagement to undertake a Crusade; here wassigned the alliance between Frederick II . and Gregory IX. Thepicturesque Castle was carried by assault by the army of Charles of Anjou. From this place may be easily visited the celebratedMonastery of Monte Casino,situated on a mountain behind the town hours;. (Time 2donkeys, 1 fr.) Exquisite views are gained during the ascentand on arrival. The monastery was founded by S. Benedict,529 A.D., on the site of a Temple of Apollo: it is of great extent.Enter by cell of founder, and proceed through courts connectedby arcades; in the centre, a fountain with statues of SS. Benedictand Scholastica, a handsome canopy and columns. Granitecolumns from the ancient Temple of Apollo enclose the spacewhere the Church stands. This erection dates from 1727,being the fourth or fifth rebuilding since its foundation.MONTE CASINO. 167Bronze Gates with inlaid silver list of possessions of theabbey in 1066.Statues of SS. Benedict, Sebastian , and Virgin ( 15th century) .Opus Alexandrinum pavement in both courts.Three yards with various antiquities.In the interior of the church; marbles, mosaics, etc.Mausoleum of Pietro de Medici"" of a Prince of Mignano.Francesco Sangallo.High Altar (marble decorations): SS. Benedict and Scholas- tica buried beneath.In subterranean Chapel, paintings by Marco da Siena andMazzaroppi.Choir stalls in the Church, splendid carvingof 48 panels .Beautiful Sacristy and Convent doors.• Cilliccio, 1696.Capella dell' Assunzione and Capella Addolorata, coveredwith costly mosaic work.Frescoes, Consecration of the Church""99Ceiling of the naveChapel of S. SacramentoSt. Gregory the Great (in Chapel)• Luca Giordano.• Ibid.Ibid.Marcus Mazzaroppi.Martyrdom of St. Andrew (and other pictures)Ibid.In the Sacristy, numerous crosses, reliquaries, crosiers(one attributed to Benvenuto Cellini, restored by Tenerani) andother specimens of art work. The floor, a fine example of Opus Alexandrinum.In the Refectory, Miracle of the Loaves and Fishes • Bassano.The Library ( 10,000 volumes) is celebrated for its MSS.Some of the works of Theocritus and Ovid were probably saved from extinction by the labours of Monte Casino copyists. TheArchives contain the most valuable historical MSS. , such as papal bulls, imperial charters, etc. In the Tower are somepictures by L. Giordano, Novelli, Spagnoletto, etc. Cloisters contain many inscriptions and antiquities, chiefly from Casinum.TheThe hospitality of the Monks of Monte Casino towardsstrangers, and their services to literature, have made them justly celebrated. The establishment is now chiefly educational; ithas a kind of reformatory for boys in connection with it . Thepicturesque gatherings of the peasantry to the early Sunday services are interesting.168 ROME TO NAPLES.From San Germano may be visited Monte Caira (4942 ft .)with views from near Albano, to near Naples. Also Pignataro(4 miles), the remains of Interamna Lirinas (a Volscian city) ,and several other places.Leaving San Germano the rail passes the villages of Cervaro,S. Vittore, and S. Pietro- in- Fine to the station of Rocca d'Evandro, where the scenery becomes very mountainous andgrand. We now pass successively Mignano, Presenzano, Caianiello, Riardo, Teano. Some chalybeate springs described byPliny are situate near the town of Teano ( 2 miles fromstation) . Teano was once second only to Capua amongstCampanian towns. It has many classic and mediæval associa- tions. Ancient castle (15th century) , in ruins; remains ofimmense extent; the stables would accommodate 300 horses.Ancient theatre, amphitheatre, and other ruins. Cathedral,columns from earlier edifices, sarcophagi, sphinxes, etc.Numerous Roman inscriptions. Observe north- west of Teano,the lofty volcanic crater of Roccamonfina. From Teano,the railway, leaving on the right the region of Falernian wine,passes to Sparanisi. This is the nearest point for Formia andGaeta. A public conveyance leaves daily for Formia, Fondi,and Terracina. Two miles from Sparanisi station is Calvi(anc. Cales) , praised by Horace for its wines. This town hasinteresting antiquities, Temple, Amphitheatre, etc. , but is moreeasily visited from Capua. The next station passed is Pignataro.We now enter the great plain of the Campagna Felice, and ifthe weather is clear can catch a glimpse of Vesuvius, beforecrossing the river Volturno and approaching Capua.MODERN CAPUAwas built in the ninth century, on the site of ancient Casilinum(population, 13,000 . ) It is an Archiepiscopal residence, situatedon the left bank, and enclosed by a curve of the Volturno,Fortifications were erected 1231 , enlarged and improved byVauban; altered and strengthened 1855. The town was sackedand 5000 inhabitants slain by Cæsar Borgia 1501; it was also taken by the army of Victor Emanuel, after the battle ofthe Volturno, 1860. The Gothic Cathedral ( 11th century,but now modernised) containsAncient granite columns remains of Casilinum .Madonna della Rosa ( 13th century) .Madonna and Two Saints Silvestro de' Buoni.ANCIENT CAPUA. 169In the Romanesque CryptRoman Tomb, and bas-reliefs, representing the Hunt of Meleager.Holy SepulchreMosaics from early pulpit.Bottiglieri.Under the Arco di S. Eligio on the Piazza dei Giudici,are ancient inscriptions and bas- reliefs, remains Casilinum . Fromthis Piazza, Cæsar Borgia, whilst negotiating peace, gave thesign for the slaughter of the Capuans.The next station to Capua is Santa Maria. The flourishingtown of Santa Maria Maggiore stands on the site ofANCIENT CAPUA.Originally the Etruscan city of Volturnum; became Capuaunder Samnite occupation. It was long the rival, and afterwards the ally, of Rome; early noted for its opulence andeffeminacy. The city was about six miles round, with sevengates, and had a population of about 300,000 in its most prosperous days. In hopes of becoming first city in Italy, Capua,during the second Punic War, joined Hannibal against Rome;for which, after a siege, B.C. 214, its inhabitants were severelypunished. Under the Cæsars the town recovered its [ formersplendour. Goths and Vandals and Lombards subsequentlydespoiled the city; and in the 8th century it was destroyed by the Saracens. The inhabitants thereupon fled to modernCapua.Ruins of Amphitheatre ( fr. for 1 or 2 persons) , theoldest in Italy, and, next the Colosseum, the largest; constructedfor 100,000 spectators. The walls are composed of uncementedblocks of travertine. Two of the 80 entrance arches remain,and three corridors. Images of gods adorn the keystones.The arena is cleared out, and shows numerous passages, dens,etc. These passages have been filled with various fragments,bas-reliefs, etc., found in the ruins. By the entrance is anascent to the second story, whence is the best view of theruins and surrounding plain. A Triumphal Arch standson the road to modern Capua. Chapel of S. Nicola on MonsTifata, once the site of a Temple of Jupiter. Church of S.Angelo in Formis ( 3 miles from S. Maria) , ByzantineFrescoes ( 12th century) , illustrating the whole course of Scripture history. Earliest known picture of the Last Judgment,etc.170 ANCONA TO NAPLES.The next station is Caserta, near the gate of the Royal Palace.CASERTA.(Hotel. See Appendix. )-Permission to view the Palace must be obtained at thePalazzo Reale in Naples, from whence Caserta is mostly visited.The Palace of Caserta was commenced in 1752 by Charles III.Vanvitelli was the architect. It was completed by Ferdinand.To gain an idea of the magnitude of the edifice, view it fromthe centre of the courts. Grand staircase of 117 marblesteps. On first floor is the Chapel, ornamented with finemarbles, lapis-lazuli, and gold, and containingPresentation in the Temple .Five Paintings byAltar-pieceMengs.Conca.Bonito.Theatre with 16 Corinthian columns of African marblefrom the temple of Jupiter Serapis at Pozzuoli. The southfront of the palace is 780 feet long and 125 feet in height, with240 windows. From the principal entrance through the porticoacross the court the grand cascade is seen in the distance.The cascades and fountains and statuary in the gardens, combined with the beautiful and extensive views from the terraces,form perhaps the chief attraction of Caserta. The water isbrought by an Aqueduct (Ponte della Valle) with three rowsof arches, from Maddaloni. On the east side is the EnglishGarden, formed by Queen Caroline in 1782. Part of theancient feudal forest still exists on the left of the park. TheRoyal Casino of S. Leucio ( 3 m. from palace) , with yetmore extensive views, and an adjacent ilex forest, well stocked with game.The remaining stations on the route to Naples after leavingCaserta are, Maddaloni (Medieval castle and church of S.Michele, on the hill; palace of the Carafas, now a college, etc.);Cancello (with ruined castle) , junction for Nola, Sansevenn,and Laura, Acerra, and Casalnuovo. Here the Castle of St. Elmoand upper parts of Naples come into view, and after passingthe cemetery the terminus is speedily reached.Naples ( p. 183) .FROM ANCONA TO NAPLES.The train after leaving Ancona passes under the hills by atunnel, and next arrives at Osimo. Town wall built in the secondLORETO. 171century B.C. Palazzo Pubblico in piazza, with statues, etc. , ofnoted persons born in Osimo. Hence, passing on the right Castel-fidardo (scene of the defeat of Lamoriciere by Cialdini ,1860), we arrive atLORETO,situate on a hill whence admirable views are obtained of theApennines and of the Adriatic. One long street full of boothsfor the sale of relics, rosaries, etc., forms the chief part of the town. It is said that when the Basilica erected by the piouscare of the Empress Helena over the Virgin's House at Nazarethfell into decay, the Casa Santa was brought by angels to a spotbetween Fiume and Tersator on the coast of Dalmatia, whereit rested three years. Thence it was again carried off byangels in the night to the ground of a certain widow Laureta(whence Loreto) . A church was erected; and round it avillage soon gathered, to which Pope Sixtus V. accorded theprivileges of a town. Half a million pilgrims resort hereannually; in fact, it is the most frequented sanctuary in Christendom.It is not necessary to show that there is not a shadow ofhistoric testimony for this so- called miracle; indeed, we have not the slightest hint in the writings of historian, monk, orpilgrim, from the earliest time to the 15th century, that thereever was a house at all on the spot . In the 15th century thestory first began to be circulated, and it was definitely related and authenticated in a bull of Leo X., in the year 1518. Theprobable origin of this most incredible of ecclesiastical legendsis well stated by Dean Stanley. " Nazareth was taken bySultan Khalie in 1291 , when he stormed the last refuge of the Crusaders in the neighbouring city of Acre. From that timenot Nazareth only, but the whole of Palestine, was closed tothe devotions of Europe. The Crusaders were expelled fromAsia, and in Europe the spirit of the Crusades was extinct.But the natural longing to see the scenes of the events of sacredHistory, the superstitious craving to win by prayer the blessing of consecrated localities, did not expire with the Crusades. Canwe wonder that, under such circ*mstances, there should have arisen the feeling, the desire, the belief that, if Mahomet couldnot go to the mountain, the mountain must come to Mahomet.The house of Loreto is the petrefaction, so to speak, of the ' last sigh of the Crusades. ' "-Murray's Handbook for Syria and Palestine.172 LORETO.The Chiesa della Casa Santa, with handsome façade and colossal statue of Sixtus V.Over principal door, Madonna and Child, Girolamo Lombardo.Three superb Bronze Doors.Campanile (by Vanvitelli) . Principal bell givenby Leo X., 1516; weighs 11 tons.In the interior, Bronze Font with bas- ) Tiburrio , Verelli &reliefs, Faith, Hope, Charity, etc. }St. Francis d'AssisiArchangel MichaelGiambattista Vitale.Domenichino.Other valuable Pictures, Frescoes, Sculptures, etc.Guido Reni.In the centre of church stands the Casa Santa, 28 feetby 12 feet, and 13 feet high, surrounded by a marble Screendesigned by Bramante, begun under Leo X. , continued underClement VII. , and completed under Paul III. Sculptures andbas-reliefs, etc. , adorn the sides.West Side. -AnnunciationSmaller scenesSouth Side. -Nativity•David and Goliath, etc. , etc.East Side.- -Arrival of the CasaDeath ofthe Virgin·North Side.-Nativity of the VirginNuptials of the Virgin.Sansovino.Sangallo,& others.Sansovino.Other Masters.Nicolò Trilolo .Gianbologna.Sansovino, &c.Ibid.In a niche in interior, the Virgin and Child, a carving incedar (attributed to St. Luke), adorned with jewels, gleamingin the light of silver lamps perpetually burning.In the North Transept is the entrance to the Treasury,free on Sunday till 11.30 a.m.; at other times I fr. admittance.Here are shown costly offerings from kings, nobles, etc.The Jesuits' College and Palazzo Apostolico.Designed by Bramante, 1510. In the picture gallery are― Woman taken in AdulteryLast Supper .St. ClaraDescent from the CrossNativity of ChristTitian.Vouet.. Schidone.. Guercino.Ann. Caracci.After leaving Loreto, the line passes Recanati. Here still exists an unimportant mediæval fortress. The Cathedral ofSan Flaviano, with Gothic porch and monument of GregoryXII., 1417 , may be visited; also several noteworthy palaces,especially that of the Leopardi, with its library and collections .The succeeding stations are Potenza, Picena, and Civita NuovaTERAMO. 173at the mouth of the Chienti: after crossing the Chienti, PortoS. Elpidio station; beyond the river Tenna, Porto S. Giorgio, anoted fort, and a favourite watering- place in the season. Fermo(on the heights) is about three miles from stations. This town,the ancient Firmum Picenum, became a Roman colony during the first Punic war. It was associated with Pompey, Cæsar,Totila, Belisarius, etc., and at a later epoch with various incidentsof medieval war and crime. Its population is about 19,000.On entering the town by the Porta S. Francesca, precipitousstreets lead up to the Piazza; the Town- hall contains inscriptions and antiquities. The antiquarian collection of M. deMinicis should be visited. Splendid views of the Apennines,Adriatic, etc., are obtained from outside the town.The railway continues to follow the coast line, crossing theLete Vivo and Aso, and passing successively Pedaso, CupraMarittima (Marano) , and Grottammare. At this last villagePope Sixtus V. was born, tended pigs for his father, a gardener.The Church of S. Luce marks the site of his birthplace. On ahill, 5 miles inland, is the walled town of Ripatransone,with population of 6000, and cathedral; remarkable cavern beneath the town. From thence by road 7 miles to Montalto;with medieval castello, cathedral (upper church by Fonzaga),and Hotel de Ville, containing portraits of Sixtus V. and family.The next coast station is S. Benedetto, whence public conveyance runs to Ascoli, distant 22 miles, in about 3 hours, fareIfr.; the road is along a contracted valley. See to the north M.della Ascencione; westward the Sibilla; towards the south,the Pizzo di Sevo. Ascoli (anc. Asculum Picenum) was besiegedby Pompey, and afterwards by Totila; it was the birthplace ofPope Nicholas IV.; see ancient wall, bridge, and west gate;fortress designed by Antonio Sangallo; several public buildingsby Cola dell' Amatrice; a few inscriptions, ruins, etc.; cathedral,founded by Constantine on site of Temple of Hercules; somegood pictures by Crivelli.The railway next crosses the Tronto, once the boundary between the States of the Church and Neapolitan provinces, andpasses Tortoreto station and Giulia Nuova; in 1460, the adjacentplain was the scene of a desperate conflict between the armiesof the Duke of Anjou and the Milanese. From this placeexcursions are made to Teramo, the Gran Sasso, etc.Teramo (population, nearly 20,000), anc. Interamna, isthe capital of the Abruzzo province; it has a Gothic cathedral;ruins of amphitheatre, temples, baths, etc. From Teramo a174 AQUILA AND TERNI.14 miles' bridle path conducts to Civitella del Tronto, with itsstrong travertine castle; this town was unsuccessfully besiegedby Duke of Guise in 1557. The Gran Sasso d'Italia ( or MonteCorno) is well seen from Teramo, but the ascent should bemade from Aquila, which may be reached by rail from Pescara.Information respecting the ascent may be obtained of the Sindaco. The summit is 10,154 feet above sea level. Thecelebrated Abruzzi pottery (now a lost art) was made at Castelli,6 miles south- east from Isola.Continuing the journey towards Naples, we cross theTordino and Vomano, and pass Mutignano station . Atri, anc.Hadria Picena, is distant about six miles by road; diligenceI fr. 25 c. Numerous ruins, local collection of coins fromremote antiquity; large ancient grottoes; Gothic Cathedral,frescoes ( 15th century) by Luca d' Atri and others; font, etc.,by Paolo di Garus, A.D. 1503 .The line passes Silvi station and Montesilvano station, thenthrough the bathing district of Castellamare to Pescara, animportant military station, but a very unhealthy place; fortressbuilt by Charles V.; Church of S. Clement, portal, and 13thcentury sculptures. At Il Tempigno are vestiges of temple and street of tombs. Notice on the right of the railway the MaiellaMountains (Mount Amaro, 9581 feet) .PESCARA TO AQUILA AND TERNI.From Pescara to Solmona, the journey is about 3hours byrail. The line ascends the right bank of the Pescara. Thefirst station passed is Chieti, about 4 miles distant from the town ofthe same name. The latter is a clean prosperous townof about 24,000 inhabitants. A promenade runs round thetown, whence can be obtained splendid views of the MaiellaMountains, and the valley of the Pescara. After leaving Chietithe train passes Manoppello, Alanno, and San Valentino. Fromthe latter town can be made the ascent of the Monte Amara,the highest peak of the Maiella. Carriages will be found at the station . Those who make the ascent can descend on thesouth side, and thence to Solmona.At the station of Torre de Passeri a halt may be made tovisit the Abbey of S. Clemente di Casauria, a Christian Basilicathe 12th century. The train next passes the station of Bussi,ated in a ravine at the upper end of the valley of the Pescara,I two miles further on arrives atAQUILA. 175POPOLI,a town of about 7,000 inhabitants, situated at the junctionof four roads, under the ruined castle of the Cantelini. Theroute now lies through a rich valley, bounded by the Maiellarange on the east, and the Lago di Fucino on the left. Thelake may be visited from Popoli.Pentima and Pratola are rapidly passed. In the plainssurrounding the former lies the ruins of the ancient city ofCorfinium, afterwards called Italica, and beyond Pratola theancient Cathedral of Panfilo is passed. The train now arrives atSOLMONA.The town is about 3 miles from the station; omnibuses 40 c.await the trains. Solmona was the birthplace of Ovid ( Sulmo) ,and contains several mediæval buildings. The Town Hall( 16th century) , the palace of Baron Tabassi, the churches of S.Maria Annunziata, S. Francesco d'Assisi, and S. Maria dellaTomba, are the chief features of interest. The town sufferedseverelyfrom earthquakes at the beginning of the century; manyof the ruined buildings still remain. An interesting excursion from here is that to Scanno, about six hours, on mule.The stations passed after leaving Solona are Raiano, in thevalley of the Aterno, Molina and Acciano. The train nowascends to Beffi, Fontecchio, fa*gnano, Campagna, S. Demetrio, andPaganica, and shortly afterwards toAQUILA,a town founded by the Emperor Frederick II . , 2398 feet above the sea. It was destroyed shortly afterwards by Manfred, andrebuilt by Charles I. It is at present the finest town in thedistrict, containing 18,000 inhabitants, wide streets and handsome palaces.Tourists who have plenty of time to spare may prefer thejourney by road. The route is along the Aterno Valley, andthe half-way halting place is at Cività Retenga. The town of Capestrano (6 miles east) was the birthplace of S. Giovannidi Capestrano, who led the crusades against the BohemianHussites; afterwards fought the Turks at Belgrade, died 1450,and was canonized 1690.176 AQUILA.The following are the principal objects of interest inAquila:-S. Bernardino da Siena, with renaissance façade(1527) by Cola dell' Amatrice, with bas-reliefs, etc. Interior of marble from the district.Shrine of S. Bernardino ( 1505) , statuettes and arabesquesSilvestro da Arsicola.Silvestro or Andrea di Aquila.Monument of Contessa di MontorioMiracle of S. Anthony byCoronation of the Virgin (chapel r. )Illuminated choir books.The CrucifixionFine Roof by·•Sta. Maria di Collemaggio.Pompeo Cesura.Luca della Robbia.Ruter.Bernardino Mosca.Gothic façade ofcoloured marbles, with rich portals, wheel windows, etc. , and statuettes of saints in niches.Monument of Celestin V. . • Girolamo da Vicenza.Painting representing life and miracles of Celestin V. Ruter.S. Chiara. Crucifixion, etc.. · Nicolo Alunno.S. Giuseppe, S. Giusta, S. Maria di Paganica.S. Silvestro. Visitazione, a copy of Raphael's; theoriginal was violently usurpated to the Aquilans by PopeAlex. VII. in 1655, and sent to the Escurial at Madrid, whenceit was presented by Ferdinand VII . to Lord Wellington.Virgin and Saints, by Frances Paolo di Montreale( 1509) , one of the most noted painters of the Aquilan school;many other works of the same master are to be seen in Aquila.The Palazzo Torres has a picture gallery.Portrait of Cardinal Torres •Stoning of S. Stephen (on copper)The Last Supper (on marble)MagdalenMagdalen .Martyrdom of S. CatherineDemocritus .Christ with the CupSt. JohnDomenichino.Ibid.Titian.A. Caracci.Paolo Veronese.· Baroccia.Guido.Andrea del Sarto.• Guercino.The Palazzo Dragonetti, paintings byPompeo di Aquila.The Citadel ( 1534), built by the Spaniards under Charles V., one of the most massive fortresses of the period. Bestviews from this point of town and environs, Gran Sasso, etc.AQUILA TO TERNI. 177Between Aquila and the hill of S. Lorenzo, in 1424, BraccioFortebraccio da Montone, with the Army of Alfonso of Arragon,was defeated by the united armies of the Pope Martin V.,Johanna II . of Naples, and the Duke of Milan.From Aquila may be visited (on horseback) the Cicolanodistrict, with remains of the towns of the aborigines describedby Dionysius of Halicarnassus. Petrella (3 miles east) , with castle noted for the murder of the dissolute and cruel FrancescoCenci ( 16th century) by his wife and daughter, Lucrezia andBeatrice, subsequently beheaded at the Castle of S. Angelo inRome. There is a lovely portrait of Beatrice Cenci by Guidoin the Barberini Gallery at Rome ( p . 122) .The journey from Aquila to Terni is accomplished in4 hours by rail, the distance being about 64 miles.Leaving Aquila, the train traverses the plain of Aterno, andascends gradually, passing the villages of Sassa Tornimparte,Vigliano, and after a view has been obtained of very fine scenery,it reaches Sella di Corno, the most elevated point of the line,about 900 metres above the level of the sea, and the water- shedbetween the Adriatic and Tirreno. From this the train performsa steep descent of 600 metres through a magnificent wilddistrict, touching Rocca di Corno and Rocca di Fondi; it passesthrough fourteen tunnels (some of which are fine specimens ofengineering), and after a circuitous route, on which someof the most striking panoramas are viewed of the valleybeneath, the train arrives at Antrodocco, commanding the valleyof the Velino, with several sulphurous springs in the neighbourhood. Ancient castle (now belonging tothe Marquis Giugnoof Florence) which is believed to date from the EmperorVespasian.From Antrodocco, the train continues through the valley ofthe Velino, passing Castel S. Angelo and Città Ducale, foundedin the early part of the 14th century by Robert Duke ofCalabria, as a frontier-town of the Neapolitan territory.The line thence runs on to Rieti (about 17,000 inhabitants) ,a town of no particular importance ( 1400 feet above sea level),commanding the plain of same name. The train continues onto Conigliano, Greccio, and Piediluco, with small picturesquelake; passes Le Marmore, and after going through several longtunnels, with intermediate fine view of the plain of the Nera,reaches Stroncone and Terni.T2178 ANCONA TO NAPLES.ANCONA TO NAPLES.(Continued .)Francavilla, station . Town on right on hill . Four tunnels.Ortona (anc. Orton) , elevated town on a promontory, burntby the Turks in 1566; fine views to the south . Cathedral;Palace of Margaret of Austria. Beyond Ortona theline passes through another tunnel and crosses two streams.S.Vito Chietino, station, then after three more tunnels, Fossacessia,station. A mile and a quarter inland is Lanciano (anc.Axanum), built on three hills, famous in the middle ages for its29 days' fair and its manufacture of needles; bridge of Diocletian, and Cathedral; Church of S. Maria Maggiore. Onthe road to Lanciano, Church of Giovanni di Venere, with somegood sculpture.The railway crosses the Sangro, and passes Casalbordinostation, then through three tunnels, and over the Osente andAsinello to the station at Vasto . This town (anc. Histonium)is on a hill near the sea, commanding fine views. Numerousruins indicate the ancient extent and opulence of this town.Remains of medieval Palace of Jacopo Caldora . Palace of thed'Avalas family; furniture and pictures as when inhabited byVittoria Colonna. Collection of antiquities in the Town Hall .The next station is S. Salvo; then, after crossing the Trigno,Termoli (castle, cathedral with quaintly decorated saints, andfine views); nearest point for the Tremiti Islands (now,as anciently, a convict station) . Diligences to Campobasso andSolopaca. The rail next crosses the Biferno (anc. Tifernus),and passes Campomarino station. The country becomes lesspicturesque. Chienti station passed, the line crosses the Fortore(anc. Frento) to Ripalta station , near which the Normans madeprisoner Pope Leo IX. , and then knelt and craved his blessing.He gave it, made peace, and conferred provinces upon hiscaptors. After passing Ripalta we quit the coast, leaving to theleft Lago di Lessina, and beyond the lake, Mount Gargano, projecting into the sea, 4000 feet in height. Poggio Imperialestation. Apricena. San Severo, almost totally destroyed by theFrench in 1799. Motta. Thence to the junction at Foggia.Foggia (population, 38,000) is a rich mercant.le city, pre- senting, however, in itself, few attractions for the tourist. TheCathedral is of Norman origin; partially destroyed by anearthquake in 1731 , but afterwards re-erected. Here, in 1258,ANCONA TO NAPLES. 179King Manfred was crowned. The Emperor Frederick II. frequently visited Foggia. A gateway of his palace ( 1223 ) stillexists. In May, a large fair is held in this town.From Foggia may be visited Lucera. Diligence twice daily, 3 fr. , in 1 hours. Anc. Luceria. Samnite, and afterwards Roman colony, regarded as the key to Apulia. Castle,a remarkable specimen of the medieval stronghold; central tower of Roman work. Cathedral in Romanesque style;the columns of the nave are in verd antique. Castel Fiorinto(7 miles from Lucera) , where Frederick II. died, 1250, havingbeen 52 years King of the Two Sicilies, 38 years as a German king, and 31 years emperor.Manfredonia, 4 miles from Foggia. Diligence daily.4 hours, 4 fr. Founded by Manfred in 1266, on site of ancientSipontum. The Cathedral contains one of the largest bells in Italy, given by Manfred. Church of Madonna diSiponto, 1 mile from the town, with elegant porch, crypt,etc. Byzantine picture of the Virgin. Monte Santangelo(2824 feet), on part of the Monte Gargano ( 5120 feet) , 3 milesfrom Manfredonia, has a famous Sanctuary, which, on May8th, is the resort of pilgrims from all parts to observe the festaof S. Michel. A Cave (with contiguous chapels, etc.),approached by 55 rock-hewn steps, is shown as the spot whereS. Michael miraculously appeared to S. Laurentius, in 491.About half a million of sheep are fed on the plains roundFoggia (descending from the mountains in October) . Theywere once nearly nine times as numerous. It is exceedinglyinteresting, in spring and autumn, to watch this migration ofcountless flocks, shepherds, and often proprietors with theirfamilies, and the fine white Abruzzi dogs. These plains, knownas the Tavoliere della Puglia ( 80 miles by 30) , were tilllately exclusively royal domains, and their occupiers were notallowed to cultivate. But now freeholds are sold, cultivation isincreasing, and the sheep are becoming less numerous.The line now traverses the vast and monotonous Tavolieredi Puglia to Cervaro, where there is a branch to Ordona, Ascoli,and Candela. Giardinetto (for Troja, 7 miles N.) . Crossingthe Cervaro river, we leave the great plain at Bovino (anc.Vibinum), notorious for brigandism, then (after passing threetunnels) reach Onsara, Montagulo, and Savignano- Greci. Thelast station is named from two villages on opposite sides of the ravine, through which the Cervaro flows . The line nowascends continuously, till at Pianerottolo it attains a height180 ANCONA TO NAPLES.1789 feet, and then by a tunnel, two miles in length, passesthrough the highest part of the Apennines, and descends towardsAriano. (Population , 14,000. ) Many of the poorer inhabitants live in caverns in the rocks. From Ariano a six hours' excursion can be made to the mephitic lake of Arnsanctus, commemorated by Virgil and Cicero.Passing through two tunnels, we arrive at Starza. Thencomes another tunnel, and beyond the stations of Montecalvoand Buonalbergo. Down the ravine of the Miscana, across theUfita river, and Apice is reached . Entering the Calore Valley,we cross the Tamaro to Ponte Valentino station . We next reachBENEVENTO(situate three-quarters of a mile from station ) , on a hill boundedby the Sabato and Calore. ( Population, 21,100.)This town, originally Maleventum, was founded, accordingto tradition, by Diomedes, son of Ulysses and Circe; and became a Roman colony under the name Beneventum B.C. 268.Pyrrhus was defeated, and Hanno twice routed in the neigh- bourhood. At one time Beneventum was one of the mostimportant towns in Southern Italy, and in the sixth centurywas the seat of a Lombard duchy. In the eleventh century,the Emperor Henry III . ceded it to Leo IX. It subsequentlyremained a Papal dependence till the foundation of the Italiankingdom.Cathedral of S. Potimus. Dates from the 12th century. Façade and bell- tower in Lombard-Saracenic style. Infront, an Egyptian Obelisk in red granite, from a Temple of Isis. Bronze doors with scriptural bas-reliefs, executed at Constantinople 1150. Medieval pulpits, on fanciful columns, supported by animals, by Nicholaius ( 1311 ) . The paintings andmonuments are of no great merit or interest. Roman basreliefs on the bell-tower.On the east side of the town is the Porta Aurea, ortriumphal arch of Trajan, of Greek marble, 53 feet in height,built in 112 A.D. A beautiful structure, with splendidly preserved friezes, representing events in the conquest of Dacia,and other scenes in the Emperor's life, his apotheosis, etc.statue of Trajan once crowned the arch.AThe town walls, and other parts of the town, show manyBENEVENTO. 181ancient relics. A marble Apis on a pedestal with curious arabesque, a relic of Samnite art, stands before the Prefecture .The castle terrace affords magnificent views.Church of S. Juvenalis, or Santa Sofia. Ancientcolumns, bas - relief, mediæval Campanile, cloisters, etc.Church of the SS. Annunziata with numerous marblesand columns. The Liceo (once a Jesuit convent) has manyRoman sculptures and inscriptions found in and near the town.There are a few antiquities in the court of the Palace of the Cardinal Legate (now a barrack).In the neighbourhood of this town was fought, in 1266, thebattle of Benevento, at which King Manfred was defeated by Charles I. of Anjou.From Benevento the railway follows the right bank of theCalore. Tunnel . Picturesque villages on the declivities . Vitu- lano station. Tunnel. Torrecuso on hills to the left. Ponte diBenevento. The high road crosses the Calore over an ironbridge. Tunnel. Station of S. Lorenzo Maggiore. The townis on a hill to the right. Solopaca. The village is at the footof Monte Taburno, on the opposite side of the river, approachedby an iron bridge. Pass the Lago di Telese, an unhealthy marsh on the left. Telese station . The town on the hills tothe right, with mineral springs. Anc. Telesia, a Samnite town;occupied by Hannibal; taken and destroyed by the Romans;re-colonized by Augustus; devastated by earthquakes in theninth century, and finally destroyed by the Saracens.Cerreto, Piedimonte (with Mont Miletto, 6475 feet) . Alife,Caiazzo, etc., with some ancient or mediæval objects of interest,and much fine scenery, can be visited from Telese.Passing along the Volturno Valley, we reach Amorosi andDugenta. In the vicinity is S. Agata dei Goti (anc. Saticola); many ancient coins and vases in the Museum at Naples were found here.Station Valle, after which we pass under the wonderfulaqueduct, called the Ponta della Valle, or Carolina Aqueduct. Station Maddaloni. Rapid descent, with splendid views of Vesuvius, etc., etc. Two tunnels. Caserta (see p. 170) .Across the canal of the Lagni and the fertile Terra di Lavoro.Marcianise. Aversa. Population, 21,000. The earliestNorman settlement in Italy, A.D. 1029. Here is situated acelebrated lunatic asylum founded by Murat, known as theMaddalena, one of the earliest to discard the old systemof harsh restraint . S. Elpidio, 2 miles east of Aversa (anc182 ANCONA TO NAPLES.Atella), whence sprang the Oscan farces, long a favouriteamusem*nt in ancient Rome, with Maccus (see Pompeianpaintings) as a leading character. From the Òscan Maccus,the Neapolitan Pulcinella and English Punch are doubtless derived. After passing S. Antimo, Fratta- Grumo, Casoria,and through a tunnel, we soon reach the central station at Naples.Naples (p. 183) .DrolanaArpaiaMonteForchiaCervinara S. MaRocco RainolaAvellaBaiano MuAlbergo di Poveri BotanicalGardenisVisciano NolaS PaploLiveri ΟMarzanoCarbonaraPagoTourand CastelMigliano LaurioPalma Moschian Castello di Palma Quindic LibrareppeyStriano o OEpiscopiaSarnoS.ValentinoDanz •S.Marzano PietroCicalesiagroaStradaStradadelCampoProtestant Cemetery PoggioStradalediCentral StNolanaRailwaypa a Mercato 5Carni NuovaVedelPopolo S.d.MarinPagan Angrio NocS.EgidioVaglio ttere hanoSulAlbMoloPiccolo Immacolatella orto andeCamMilitaireCesaranoScalaramontiRavello MuroraLazaroAtraraC.aReference .Churches and Public Buildings1 Duomo (Cathedral) | 13 Museum 2 Annunziata 3 S.Chiara 14 University 15 Tribunali 4 S.DomenicoMaggiore 16 Post Office 5 S.Francesco diPaola 17 Borsa 6 Gerolomini 18 Pal.Angri 7 S.GiovanniaCarbonara 19 " Fondi 8 S.Lorenzo Maggiore 20 ,, Maddaloni 9 S. Maria del Carmine 21 Teatro Carlo Y OF SA10 Monte Oliveto 22 33 S. Carlino 11 S.Severino e Sosio 12 S.Paolo Maggiore 23 "24 Fenice " NuovoW. & A.K.Johnston. Edinburgh & London.

Naples.Italian, NAPOLI. French, NAPLES.(Hotels. See Appendix.)SPECIAL NOTES AND MEMORANDA.On arrival at Naples, the luggage of every passenger, byland or by sea, is examined. The annoyances that travellersonce had to endure, in getting from the railway or steamboat to their hotel, are becoming fewer every year. It is best to disregard the solicitations of all touters, and proceed at once to theomnibus belonging to the hotel; and if there is not an hotelomnibus, enter a fiacre. Never be betrayed into an altercationwith the cabdriver; arrange with him as to the carriage of theluggage, and pay the other fare according to the fixed tariff (seebelow) . In case of a misunderstanding, call a policeman, or ifredress cannot be obtained in this way, take his number, andthen apply to the Central Bureau of the Corso Pubblico, Hotelde Ville, Piazza del Municipio ( 1st floor).Cab Fares are cheap in Naples, being at the following rate:-From sunrise to midnight.The fareIst hourSucceeding hoursThe fareIst hourI horse 70 c. 2 horses I.401.50 IFrom midnight to sunrise.I horseSucceeding hours2.20 دو1.7CI fr. Io c. 2 horses 2.202 ΙΟ 99 3.2039 I " 502.20 ""ور "Fractions of an hour are charged as half an hour,184 NAPLES.Tramways. 1.-Posilipo -Posta.29""دو2.—Torretta-Reclusorio (Workhouse) .3.-S. Ferdinando-Museum.4.-Porta Capuana-Poggioreale.5.-S. Ferdinando-Portici -Torre del Greco.The fare on almost all these lines ( except 5):Whole courseHalf courses 25 c. first,15 9915 and 10 c. second .10 ""On Sundays and holidays no half courses.Central starting point is S. Ferdinando, in front of the Royal Palace.Steam Tramway to Pozzuoli, Casoria, and Caivano.Omnibuses at cheap fares run frequently along the principal thoroughfares.Boats . Fare from the steamer to the Custom House, Ifranc. There is no fixed tariff for pleasure boats. A bargain must therefore be struck with the boatman .In making purchases at shops, remember it is thecustom of the country to ask considerably more than will betaken. It is by no means infra dig. to drive a hard bargain.Never let the traveller allow a touter to introduce him to a shopto make purchases.For a list of the principal Festivals, see Calendar, inAppendix. No traveller, who can make it convenient to stay,should omit witnessing a Neapolitan Festival. Music, dances,processions, costumes, and enthusiasm.It should be born in mind that there is only one Railway Station in Naples.The lover of Oysters will find them in perfection inNaples. The oyster stalls on the Quay S. Lucia are recom- mended to his notice.If the traveller does not obtain at his hotel good macaroni,or the celebrated shell-fish soup, or the not less celebratedNeapolitan ices, he should get them at any of the various cafés,as they are specialities.Lava Ornaments, coral ornaments, or gloves, are specialities of Naples, and good things to bring away as presents or souvenirs.THEATRES.Nearly all the theatres open their doors about half-past 7;esentations commence at 8, and close at midnight.PRINCIPAL SIGHTS. 185S. CarloBelliniFondo•FiorentiniTeatro Nuovo .SannazaroFenice(p. 244) Opera.Near the Museum • Opera.Strada del Molo Drama.Strada FiorentiniStrada Nuova• · Chiaja •( Piazza del Municipio)San Carlino•Drama.Opera Bouffé.Drama.Burlesque ballet.3rd class.Marionettes, Pul- cinella, orPunchand Judy.Post Offices. -Palazzo Gravina, Strada di Montoliveto;open 9 to 12 a.m.; 4 to 8 p.m. Branches in Via Chiaja, Torretta, S. Lucia, Via Foria; letter-boxes in various parts. Postagestamps sold at the tobacco shops. Telegraph Office at GeneralPost Office. Branches in different parts.Reading Rooms at the principal booksellers.For Sea Bathing, better go to Sorrento, Capri, or Ischia .Churches. - Church of England, Christ Church, in Viadi S. Pasquale, Sundays, 11.0 and 3.15; Wednesdays andFridays, 11.0. Scotch Presbyterian, in Largo di Capella Vecchia,Sundays, 11.0 and 3.30 . German and French Protestant, VicoFreddo (Str. Poerio), Sundays, 10.0 and 12.0 . WesleyanMethodist Mission Church, 210, Toledo, Sundays at midday,and 7.0 p.m. Roman Catholic (see Churches pp. 191-208) .PRINCIPAL SIGHTS, AND TIMES FORSEEING THEM.Aquarium.-Daily, 8 to 6. 2 fr. October to May; I fr. Juneto September; p. 245.Archives (at S. Severino). By permission of the Keeper. 1 fr.Albergo de' Poveri .-p. 248.Botanic Garden. —p. 245.Castel Nuovo. p. 241. Armoury only by permission of Minister of War. Church, 50 c. (customary) .Castel del Ovo.—p. 242.Castel Capuano.—p. 242.Castel del Carmine.-p. 242.Castel Sant' Elmo.—p. 242. I fr. to soldier in attendance.Catacombs. Apply to porter at Albergo de Poveri, and give a--trifle to its funds. Porter, 25 c.186 NAPLES.Cemeteries .-Campo Santo Vecchio, Campo Santo Nuovo, andProtestant Cemetery ( fr. ); p. 248.Churches. Open free till about midday; after that on application to the sacristan.2939 39ووThe Duomo, etc., with Basilica of S. Restituta( fr.) , and Chapel of S. Gennaro; p. 191.Festival of the Liquefaction, first Sunday inMay, Sept. 19th to 26th, and Dec. 16th.S. Martino, daily, 10 to 4; p. 203. By ticket for museum.S. Severino, Cloisters of. Permission from Keeperof the Archives. Fee, 1 fr . See p. 206.Santa Chiara, S. Domenico Maggiore, S. FilippoNeri, S. Giovanni a Carbonara, S. Lorenzo,l'Incoronata, S. Maria dell ' Annunziata, S.Maria la Nuova, Monte Oliveto; pp. 194-208.Library, National. -Daily, 8 to 2,. Sundays and holy days excepted; p. 228.2219"9""Brancacciana, daily for two hours before sunset; p. 238.Municipal (or of St. Gircomo) , daily, 6 to 10 p.m.;p. 239.of the Gerolomini, daily, 9 to 11; p. 239.of the University, daily, 9 to 3. Permission readilygranted; p. 239.Lighthouse on Molo. -Ascent, I fr.Museum, National, daily, 9 to 3 , except certain holy days ( 1 fr. ,children 30 c. ) . See p . 209. Sundays free from 10 to 1 .Observatory on the Capodimonte. p. 245.Palazzo Reale.-A porter conducts to the Intendant, who supplies gratuitously a card, which also admits to the otherroyal palaces, of which the names are torn off as theticket is used. Attendant at each 1 fr.; porter a trifle;p. 239.Palazzo di Capodimonte. -Daily, 10 to 4. See above. Thepalaces at Caserta, Quisitana, Astori, and Favorita, arealso included in the above arrangement.Palazzo Sant' Angelo. -Picture Gallery. By permission of theMarquis; p. 241.zo Fondi .-Picture Gallery. By permission of the prince;p. 241.o Miranda. Daily, 12 to 2 on leaving card. 50 c. toporter. Picture Gallery, I fr.; p . 241.NAPLES. 187Panorama Chiatamone. -Price varies according to subject, from I to 2 fr.Teatro di San Carlo. p. 244.Tomb of Virgil.- fr. to Custodian; p. 248.Villa Nazionale.-Promenade, gardens, etc. , free. Free concerts,in winter 4 to 6; summer 9 to 11; p. 244.Virgil, Tomb of—50 c.; p . 248.Naples is, perhaps, the loveliest spot in Europe. Thebeautiful bay, reflecting the buildings in its azure waters; thepicturesque amphitheatre formed by the verdant, villa- sprinkledhills that enclose the city; mighty Vesuvius on the right; thefair shores, sweeping round on the one hand by Portici andCastellamare to Capri, and on the other by Pozzuoli and Misenum to romantic Ischia-of all this most travellers have someprevious idea from description; but the universal verdict ofvisitors is, that neither pen nor pencil ever gave any real conception of the surpassing loveliness of Naples and its Bay, as seen from the sea.The city of Naples is divided into two unequal portions bya ridge of hills, extending from the Castle of St. Elmo to thepromontory surmounted by the Castle dell' Ovo. The olderand larger part is traversed from north to south by the Toledoor Strada di Roma, and in it are situate the chief public buildings.The district west of the Castle of St. Elmo is called the Chiaja.Its principal street, the Riviera di Chiaja, about a mile in length,is only separated from the Bay by a public promenade, calledthe Villa Nazionale, formerly Villa Reale."Naples is built in the form of an amphitheatre; and asthe ground ascends gradually from the sea, there are a certainnumber of straight streets following the slope of the ground,and a certain number running round the line of the bay. Theouter or seaward rows extend nearly five miles, and of thesethe principal promenade-it can hardly be called a street-theChiaja, occupies about one. This is the best part of the city.Most of the chief palaces are situated in it; and as there isnothing between it and the sea but the " Villa," a magnificentwalk, planted with every variety of tree that will grow in Naples,it is both the pleasantest and the healthiest portion of the city.The Toledo, the principal seat of business, is wide, the housesare lofty, and the shops brilliant; the crowd is as great, and muchmore noisy, than any that Paris can exhibit. " -Ferrybridge.188 NAPLES,99The great public squares of Naples are called larghi, orpiazzi. In the Largo del Mercato, near the Church of theCarmine, a great Market is held every Monday and Friday,formerly one of the most picturesque and striking scenes on the Continent. There it was that, in 1647, Masaniello excited hiscomrades to revolt, the principal of the three fountains ornamenting the square yet bearing the name of the patriot fisherman. Many of the cries peculiar to the market have been effectively introduced into the famous " Market Chorus ofAuber's stirring opera. In 1799 this square was the scene ofmany political executions. On the Mole, the Italian storytellers, surrounded by their eager groups of listeners, mayoccasionally be met with. Of late, however, they have takenmore to the sea-shore beyond the Molo Piccolo. On thespacious Quay of St. Lucia, beyond Pizzofalcone, and theCastel dell' Ovo, Neapolitan street-life is to be seen to per- fection.To this street-life of Naples, Lord Broughton thusalludes in his " Naples, Political and Social " -"The rumble of carts and carriages of every description,which, with the greatest velocity and frightful shouts, cutthrough the crowds of people every moment, the running,struggling, pushing, and fighting, form the most extraordinarypicture that can be seen in Europe. It has been computedthat, at every moment of the day, more than fifty thousand persons may be found in the Toledo, with above fifteen hundred vehicles of various kinds; coachmen, cartmen, muleteers,and pedestrians, all contributing to the incessant din; someswearing, some screaming, some singing, some holding forthon the new opera, others on the last lottery, and all talking evenmore with their hands than with their tongues. Amidst this throng of passengers, everything which can be done under theopen canopy of heaven is going forward in this busy street.The shoemaker, the tailor, and the joiner are all there at work;the writer sits at his desk, and his employers stand beside him,dictating with the utmost gravity the secrets of their hearts,which they are unable themselves to indite. A decrepit oldwoman is screaming out a hymn as a penance, whilst her voiceis drowned in that of a quack doctor recommending his wares.Jugglers play their tricks, gamblers shout out the number ofthe game they are playing, females are stuffing mattresses,cleaning vegetables, plucking poultry, and scouring pans, all in the open way."NAPLES. 189Whatever may be the romantic beauty of its site and surroundings, the sanitary and municipal arrangements of Naples are far from perfection. The author of Italian Pictures "says:-66"The paving is about the worst in Europe, and the drain- age extremely incomplete. Evil odours are more abundant inNaples than any other Italian city, and the warmth of the climate at once adds to their number and intensifies their quality.......The sun shines his brightest, and the zephyrs blow theirsoftest; the sea is of the deepest blue, and the mountains of themost glorious purple. Nowhere is there lovelier scenery forthe poet and the artist; nowhere finer fish, sweeter fruit, orbetter game for the gourmand. The oysters of Tusaro are equalto those of Milton or Faversham, or the Rocher de Cancale;and macaroni-there is no need to discuss the macaroni ofNaples. Now all these are, undoubtedly, advantages, and, tocounterbalance them, I am obliged to confess that Naples is anill- built, ill- paved, ill- lighted, ill - drained, ill- watched, ill- governed,and ill-ventilated city. If you look at it from the sea, it is mostbeautiful; if you enter it from the south, over the bridge SantaMaddalena, you will have a favourable impression; if you keepto the Chiaja-which is quite the west end, and ought not to becalled the city at all, for the whole mass of buildings lies to thenorth-east-if you keep to the Chiaja and the Strada di Toledo,and one or two more of the principal streets and places, youmay preserve your first impressions; but if you wander extensively on foot, you will say of Naples what is frequently said ofConstantinople."Happily, the Naples of to- day does not justify the stronglanguage which, with perfect propriety, might have been usedwith regard to it several years ago.HISTORY.ThisThe origin and name of Naples are Greek. There is nodoubt that an Æolian colony was founded on the bay of Puteolisat least a thousand years B.C. , under the name of Kyme.colony was the parent of Parthenope or Phaleron, the older partof the city; the later part was known as the Neapolis (new city), whence the modern name Naples. Both cities wereultimately blended in one republic, and became allied with Rome about 400 B.C, Here during the civil wars Sylla perpetrated a fearful massacre. Here Augustus and Virgil and many190 NAPLES.other celebrated Romans dwelt, and here Nero strutted on thestage to seek, as an actor, the plaudits of the multitude. Asthe Roman empire fell to pieces, Naples became subject to theGoths under Theodoric. In 536 A.D. Belisarius took the city bystorm, and it remained subject to the Eastern Empire, until in543 Totila, leader of the Goths, reduced it by famine andlevelled its walls with the ground. It became again subject tothe Eastern Empire for a time; then as that empire crumbled,maintained an independent existence for about four centuries.Roger I. , a Norman chief, next conquered it, was proclaimedKing of Naples and Sicily, and during the twelfth and part ofthe thirteenth centuries Naples remained under the Normanrule. Anjou and Spain subsequently took their turn at rulingNaples. For about two centuries the city was governed bySpanish viceroys, who were really dictators, and whose wordwas law to its citizens. As Spain lost the power of maintainingher old ascendancy in Europe, her outlying dependencies, Naplesamong the rest, were grievously taxed to uphold her decayingthrone. Every article of food or clothing was taxed, until thesystem became so unbearable that the populace gladly respondedto the call of Masaniello, rose in revolt, compelled the governorto repeal all the imposts, remaining, however, faithful to theSpanish power. For a short period (twenty-seven years)Austrian viceroys took the place of the Spanish rulers, untilafter the victory of Bitonto over the Imperialists in 1734, DonCarlos, younger son of Philip IV. of Spain, assumed the crownof Naples, under the title of Charles III. To him the city owesits present development in extent and wealth. His successorsof the house of Bourbon further improved the city. Underthe first Empire the throne was given in succession toJoseph Buonaparte and Joachim Murat, and the Bourbons wererestored to power in 1815. On September 7th, 1860, after avictorious march through Sicily and South Italy, Garibaldientered Naples at the head of his volunteers. He was receivedwith enthusiastic joy by the populace; and by the Plebiscite ofOct. 21 , Naples became united with the rest of Italy underVictor Emanuel. Although since that period Naples has beenonly the chief town of a province, with a prefecture and militarycommandant, it has lost nothing of its old importance and animation. It has a population of nearly 500,000 .During his reign Victor Emanuel accomplished much forthe improvement of Naples. He cut new streets, planted thepublic squares, formed a splendid embankment from the quayTHE CATHEDRAL. 191of St. Lucia to the Villa Nazionale; along the heights abovethe town a good road, the Corso Vittoria Emanuele, has beenformed, and though last, not least, some progress has been made in effecting the much-needed sanitary improvements ofNaples.THE DUOMO.The Cathedral stands in the Strada del Duomo, on thesite of a temple of Neptune, of which the columns of graniteand ancient marble found in the present structure probablyformed a portion. It was commenced by Masuccio, underCharles I. of Anjou, in 1272, and completed in 1314. It wasdedicated to S. Januarius. In 1456 it was almost entirelydestroyed by an earthquake, and was afterwards rebuilt byAlphonso I. Notwithstanding frequent alterations made duringthe 17th and 18th centuries, it still retains much of its originalFranco- Gothic character.The Church is a Basilica, having a Gothic nave and twoaisles separated by two ranges of pilasters. The Baptismalfonts, of green basalt, are evidently, by their Bacchanalianemblems, of pagan origin . Above the principal gate are (I. )the tomb of Charles I. d'Anjou, and (r. ) tomb of CharlesMartel, King of Hungary, and his wife, Clementina, daughterof Rudolph of Hapsburgh. Over the side entrances are picturesby Vasari. The ceiling is adorned with paintings by Santafede(square), and Vincenzio da Forti (oval) . The frescoes of Doctors of the Church, Patron Saints of the City, and the TwelveApostles above the arches of the nave are by Luca Giordano.S. Cirillo and the S. Crisostomo are by Solimena.Passing along the left aisle we find in the second chapelIncredulity of S. Thomas . Marco da Siena.Bas- relief, the Entombment Giovanni da Nola.In the fourth chapel (that of the Seripandi family) —The Assumption ·much restored in parts.Perugino,Cardinal Carafa, who ordered thepainting, is represented kneeling on the left.In the left transeptMonument of Andrew, King of Hungary.Tomb of Pope Innocent IV.The entrance to the Sacristy next presents itself. Withinare numerous portraits of Archbishops of Naples.On the left of the high altar is the chapel of the CapeceGaleotta family; over the altar is—Our Saviour between SS. Januarius and Athanasius.192 NAPLES.Beneath the high altar, down a double flight of marblesteps, is the Confessio or Shrine of San Gennaro, builtby Cardinal Carafa in 1497. Ten Ionic columns support themarble roof. The saint's remains are beneath the altar, andclose by is a kneeling statue of Cardinal Carafa.To the right of the choir is the Tocco Chapel.Tomb of St. Asprenus.Frescoes (scenes from his life).In the corner of the right transept, the Minutoli Chapel(thirteenth century) , designed by MasuccioPassion of our Lord (the upperpaintings) Tommaso degli Stefani .Members of Minutoli family (the lower paintings) Unknown.The latter are curious for costume, but, unfortunately, havebeen painted over.Altar Pietro degli Stefani.Tomb of Cardinal Minutoli, and Gothic Canopy Baboccio.Tombs of Archbishops of the family.Readers of Boccaccio will call to mind the adventure of theJockey of Perugia, who came by night to this chapel to steal aring from the archbishop's corse.In the nave, notice the Archbishop's chair. The rich foliation of the columns and elegant tracery of the arch of the nave,are considered almost unique.In the right aisle, the Brancia Chapel.Tomb of Card. Carbone and Gothic CanopyThe Caracciolo Chapel contains aWooden crucifix• Baboccio.Masuccio.A door out of the left aisle conducts to the Basilica ofSanta Restituta, the ancient cathedral for the Greekritual. The ancient Corinthian columns of the nave, and twowhite marble columns by the tribune, are from the Temple ofApollo, which formerly occupied this site. This church datesfrom the seventh century; restored in the seventeenth; butsome of the pointed arches in the nave and the Gothic chapelsin the right aisle are part of the original structure.entrance areTomb of Mazzocchi (scholar) .Tomb of Canonico Jorio (antiquarian) .Observe on the roof of the nave,S. Restituta's body carried by angels in aNear theboat to Ischia • Luca Giordano.THE CATHEDRAL. 193Behind the high altar in the choir,Virgin and Archangel Michael and S.Restituta • • Silvestro de' Buoni.On the left of the church is the Chapel of Santa Mariadel Principio.Ancient mosaic, Virgin and Child, called del Principio, asbeing the first picture of the Virgin venerated in Naples.Bas-reliefs, parts of eighth- century pulpits, representingscenes from lives of SS. Januarius, Eustatius, and Joseph.At the end of the right aisle is the Chapel of St. Giovanniin Fonte, once the Baptistery, the cupola of which is coveredwith early mosaics and paintings.From the right aisle of the church we enter the Chapelof San Gennaro (or Capella del Tesoro). A vow madeduring the plague of 1527 was the origin of this edifice . It wascommenced in 1608, and completed, at a cost of half a millionducats, in twenty-nine years. It is in the form of a Greekcross. Notice the splendid Bronze Grille, designed by Fansaga,which occupied forty- five years of patient work.17 altars, and 42 marble columns.19 bronze statues of saints.Sick waiting at Tomb of S. GennaroMartyrdom of S. GennaroDead man raised up at the Tomb of S. GennaroSick Cured with Oil from Lamp at Tomb of S. GennaroS. Gennaro Curing a Demoniac .Domenichino."""The latter was completed by Spagnoletto.99S. Gennaro leaving Fiery Furnace (in r. chapel) Spagnoletto.Frescoes of roof, lunettes, etc.Numerous Frescoes, from life of S. Gennaro.In the Sacristy of the Tesoro,S. Gennaro Curing a Demoniac .Several PaintingsRich collection of Plate and Vestments.Domenichino.• Stanziani.L. Giordano.Silver bust of S. Gennaro, covered with valuable offeringsfrom various monarchs. Notice rich parure of diamondsand emeralds from Joseph Buonaparte.3 silver statues, and 45 busts of saints, etc.S. Gennaro's Martyrdom (pencil drawing) .Domenichino.High Altar, with silver relief-Arrival of Remains of S. Gennaro.13194 NAPLES.Behind the altar is a tabernacle containing the two phials ofthe saint's blood. For times when the ceremony of liquefactiontakes place, see our Travellers' Calendar in Appendix.S. Januarius (S. Gennaro) was of ancient Roman descent,became a Christian in his early years, and was made firstBishop of Benevento in A.D. 304. Januarius and his friendsSocius and Proculus seem to have passed unscathed throughthe fearful persecutions of Diocletian and Maximilian . Buton the accession of Galerius, Timotheus the pro- prætor ofCampania, determined to stay the labours of the Christianbishop . He summoned Januarius and his deacons before him,ordered them to recant, and on their refusal, condemned themto be burned. They were cast into a fiery furnace; sweetmusic was heard in the midst of the flames; and when, at thecommand of Timotheus, the furnace was opened, fire leapedforth and destroyed his soldiers, while the saints remained unhurt. Other miracles followed, but did not preserve the life ofthe saint, who perished by the sword at Solfatara, on the morning of September 19th, A.D. 305. Two phials full of the bloodof S. Januarius were preserved, which according to traditionliquefies accordingly at certain appointed times. When the"miracle " takes place, the head is placed on the altar, in amagnificent shrine, together with the crystal vase containingthe two phials. Only one phial is now exhibited, the contentsof the other having been carried off to Madrid by CharlesIII., where, in the absence of the head, the miracle only takesplace onthe anniversary of the martyrdom.Permission to inspect the Tesoro of San Gennaro must beobtained from the President of the Deputies entrusted with the administration of the chapel revenues.SANTA CHIARA,More like a long hall than a church-270 feet long by 104feet broad. Commenced in the Gothic style in the reign of Robert of Anjou; completed by Masuccio II., in Romanesque,circ. 1320. Overloaded with excessive ornamentation in 1752.At this date the frescoes of Giotto, with one exception, werewhitewashed, to make the church look lighter. The onlyremnant is the Madonna della Grazie (3rd pier on the left) .On the left of principal entranceTomb of Onofrio di Penna (Secretary of KingLadislaus) . Now an altar . · Baboccio.SANTA CHIARA. 195Fresco, Madonna Enthroned ·David Playing before the Ark (on roof)3 circular paintings over high altarS. Chiara putting Saracens to Flight atAssisi (roof of nave) •Four Doctors of the Church, and largefresco close by .The Four Virtues .Francesco, son ofMaestro Simone.Seb. Conca.. Frances. di Mura.Bonito.Conca.Holy Sacrament (on roof over high altar) Frances. di Mura.King Robert at the Building of the Church.(over principal entrance)The San Felice Chapel (8th)—CrucifixionIbid.Lanfranco.Ancient Sarcophagus, with bas- relief of the Marriage of Protesilaus and Laodamia, used as the tomb of Cesare SanFelice, Duke of Rodi.The Balzo Chapel contains tombs of that family. TheCito Chapel, sculpture by San Martino.The medieval tombs of Anjou Princes, etc., give the chief interest to this church.Gothic monument of Robert the Wise Pancius &Johannes.The sitting figure represents Robert as a King, the_recumbent one as a Franciscan friar. He assumed this habit a few daysbefore his death, in 1343. It is said that Petrarch supplied theinscription.Tomb of Charles the Illustrious."""9""دوMary of Valois.Mary, Empress of Constantinople.Agnese and Clementia, daughters of foregoing.Mary (child of Charles the Illustrious) .Elegant Monument to Antonia Gaudino Giovanni da Nola.This is near the door on the left of the church. The epitaphis by the poet, Antonio Epicuro, on the death of the young girlat the age of fourteen, on the day appointed for her wedding.In Chapel 2 , on left, tomb of Raimondo Cabano, formerlya Moorish slave, afterwards High Seneschal to Joanna I., and one of the chief of those concerned in the murder of herhusband.Chapel on right of high altar. Burial-place of the Bourbons.Tomb of Prince Philip ·Tombs of five other children of Charles III.· San Martino.196 NAPLES.The pulpit of this church, supported by four lions, has someremarkable 13th century bas- reliefs of the martyrdom of SS.John and Catherine.Bas-reliefs under organ, History of St. Catherine of Alexandria.In Refectory of Franciscan Convent attached tothe churchSaviour with Virgin and SaintsKing Robert and family } School ofGiotto.Close by is the large Monastery of S. Chiara, oncecontaining 400 nuns; area now occupied by shops; at extremityof No. 23, seeMiracle of Loaves and Fishes (fresco) . Giotto.The Clocktower of S. Chiara is a fine specimen ofdecorative art. It was projected to illustrate the five orders ofarchitecture. The Tuscan portion was executed under KingRobert; the Doric was completed in the 15th, and the Ionicearly in the 17th century, leaving the Campanile still unfinished.S. DOMENICO MAGGIORE.A Gothic building, founded in 1285, from designs byMasuccio I. Altered at various times, now one of the mostrichly- adorned churches in Naples. Fine nave, 2 aisles, 27.chapels, and 12 altars. Gothic arches stuccoed and regilt. Flat18th century roof, not in harmony with the other parts. Commencing on the rightChapel 1. (St. Martin) , with arabesques on arch over entrance.Virgin with SS. Dominico and Martin . Andrea da Salerno.Chapel 2. Tomb of Archbishop Brancaccio.The Madonna •Stefanone.Agnolo Franco.(attrib. ) Agnolo Franco.St. Dominic and Magdalen (attrib. )Chapel 3. Frescoes (much repainted) (attrib. )Chapel 7. (of the Crucifix) is a church in itself.Picture of the Crucifix that spoke to St. Thomas Aquinas Tommaso degli Stefani .Bas-relief of above incident in front of altar.Carrying of the Cross and Deposition, on thesides of the altar, in Flemish style.Tomb of Francesco CarafaTomb opposite •Agnello del Fiore.Agnello del Fiore & Giovanni da Nola.' mall Chapel left of principal altar.Tomb of Ettore Carafa.S. DOMENICO MAGGIORE.197Chapel by entrance to nave containsMadonna della RosaTomb of Conte Bucchianico and wife .Maestro Simone.Agnello del Fiore.Chapel 8. ( S. Thomas Aquinas) , entrance to Sacristy.AltarpieceGothic tombs of Aquino family .Virgin and Child (on a gold ground) .The Sacristy has a rich marble pavement.Presses made of roots of trees.Frescoes (roof)The Annunciation· Luca Giordano.Simone (?)Solimena.Andrea da Salerno.45 mortuary chests covered with velvet, tenof which are of Arragonese Princes or Princesses.From the adjoining Tesoro the heart of Charles II .of Anjou, in its silver casket, was stolen during the Frenchoccupation.In the right transept—Bas-relief of S. Jerome.Several tombs, beautiful arabesques, etc.The Madonna della Grazie . Agnolo Franco.The latter painting is in one of the chapels in the passageopening out of the transept. In this passage are various tombs,etc. In the Chapel of St. Bonito, a triptych of the Virgin,Child, and Saints , etc. , and some 16th century monuments.Monument to Zingarelli ( in transept)—S. CatherineS. Mary Magdalene }in small chapel . Bros. Donzello.The High Altar ( 1652 ) . Splendid specimen of Florentinemosaic work; notice the verd antique columns for candelabra.Four chapels in left transept. In the Pignatelli Chapel seeThe Annunciation (after Titian) L. Giordano.In the left aisle are eight chapels.Chapel 8. (from entrance) dedicated to S. Maria della Neve.Alto-relievo over the altar, with statues of Virgin, and SS.Matthew and John, perhaps the chef d'œuvre of Giovanni da Nola.Monument of Poet Marini."9 Bartolommeo Pipi.Bust of Marini ( alluded to by Milton )Chapel 7. ( Ruffo Bagnara) —Martyrdom of S. CatherineTomb of Leonardo Tomacella ( 1529).Bartolommeo Visconti.· Leonardo da Pistoja.198 NAPLES.Chapel 6. Tombs of Carafa familyA Saint dressing wounds of S. Sebastian.Chapel 5. Tombs of Andrea family- Picture of S. Antoninus.Chapel 4. (Rota family)-St. John the Baptist (statue)Giovanni da Nola.Domenico d'Auria.Monument of Bernardino Roto (poet), withfigures of the Arno and TiberChapel 3. Martyrdom of St. Johnthe Evangelist Scipione Gaetano.Tomb of Antonio Carafa ( Malizia) .Chapel 2. (The Rosary) -Madonna di St. Andrea. A picture said to be endowed with marvellous miracle-working powers.Chapel 1. (St. Stephen)—Infant Christ crowning St. Joseph Adoration of the MagiHoly Family •• Luca Giordano.(attrib.) Albrecht Dürer.Andrea del Salerno.The adjacent monastery contains many memorials of S.Thomas Aquinas, university professor here in 1272. His cell(now a chapel) , his lecture-room, and part of his chair, are still shown. In the Piazza outside is the obelisk of S. Domenicoby Fansaga and Vaccaro.S. FILIPPO NERI,or the church of the Gerolomini, near the Duomo, constructedby the Fathers of the Oratory in 1592, from designs of Dionisiodi Bartolommeo. Facade by Lazzari, altered last century to match the church by Fuga, and covered with marble. Statuesby San Martino. Cupola by Lazzari. Interior-a nave andtwo aisles, divided by Corinthian granite columns. Heavyarchitrave and flat roof, with gilt bas- reliefs . The whole building excessively ornamented .Frescoes over columnsFresco over entrance, Christ driving dealersThe architectural details byfrom the TemplePicture over high altarThe pictures on side walls .Benasca.· Luca Giordano.Moscatiello.Giovan. Bernardino Siciliano.Corenzio.Chapel of S. Filippo Neri, left of choir, designed by GiacomoLazzari.Painting on Cupola. S. Filippo in gloryChapel della Concezione, right of choirCupola, Judith and head of Holofernes• Solimena.Simonelli.CHURCHES. 199The Conception Cesare Fracanzano.Chapel of Ruffo Scella family, left transept, with fluted Corinthian columns.Six StatuesThe NativityAnnunciationPietro Bernini.• Roncalli.Santafede.Chapel of St. Francis (5th on left) —St. Francis in prayer · Guido.Near this chapel, in the nave, is the inscription to Giambattista Vico, author of the " Scienzia Nuova," died 1744.Chapel of S. Agnese- Pictures •In chapels in opposite aisleRoncalli & L. Giordano.Gessi.Corenzio.Pietro da Cortona.St. Jerome awed by the last trumpet .Adoration of the MagiSt. Alexis dyingThe picture in the chapel of the Holy Sacrament is the lastwork of Santafede, unfinished at the time of his decease.The Sacristy contains many fine paintingsS. Filippo Neri in GloryBaptism of JesusFlight into Egypt Mother of Zebedee and SaviourEcce hom*oSt. AndrewCrucifixionSt. FrancisHeads of the ApostlesNativityL. Giordano.Guido.Ibid.Santafede.Spagnoletto.Ibid.Marco da Siena.Tintoretto.Domenichino.Christ bearing the Cross ( 2 pictures) .Adoration of the MagiJacob and the Angel St. Sebastian ·Bassano.Andrea da Solerno.Ibid.Palma Vecchio.Cav. Arpino.S. GIOVANNI A CARBONARA.Built in 1344. Designed by Masuccio II. King Ladislausenlarged and restored the church in 1400.The Capella dei Miroballi, opposite the entrance, contains the Tomb of Trojano Miroballo.Statues of S. Augustin and S. John the Baptist in thepilasters by the high altar.Tomb of King Ladislaus Andrea Ciccione200 NAPLES.This lofty tomb is in three stories; the first behind thealtar, four statues of virtues; the second Ladislaus and Joannaenthroned, with attendant virtues, etc.; the third, the sarcophagus containing the body, with attendant figures , recumbenteffigy of Ladislaus, angels drawing aside curtain of the canopy,etc. On the summit is an equestrian statue of the youngking.Frescoes, near the tomb, SS. John and Januarius Bisuccio.In the chapel behind this tomb (Caracciolo del Sole family) .Tomb of Sergianni Caracciolo, favourite of Joanna II . assassinated 1432, through the influence of Corello Rufo, duch*ess of Sessa.Frescoes of Life of the Madonna (note especiallythe Coronation) . Leonardo da Bisuccio.The circular Chapel of the Caracciolo Rossi family left ofhigh altar, designed by Girolamo Santacroce.Statue of S. PeterS. Paul ""وو S. Andrewوو S. James .Merliano.Santacroce.Caccavello.Pedro della Piatta.These four statues were executed as a trial of skill by thesculptors named.The Epiphany ( Mezzo- relievo)Bas-reliefs on altarTwo Evangelists and small statues of SS. John and SebastianTomb of Galeazzo99 Colantonio CaraccioloIn the Sacristy (formerly Somma chapel) .Small pictureBas-relief on altar15 Frescoes ( Old Testament history and life of St. John)Walnut-wood presses, from·Della Piatta.Ibid.Santacroce.Scilla.Domenico d'Auria.•Bassano.Caccarello.Fasari and Doceno.. Vasari's designs.The Chapterhouse, a handsome room covered with frescoes. From the court enterChapel of the Crucifixion, belonging to the Seripandis.The Crucifixion •·Chapels of St. Monica and Madonna Consolatrice.Vasari.MONTE OLIVETO, OR S. ANNA DE LOMBARDI ,once a Benedictine Monastery, erected in 1411 , from designs ofCiccione. The garden where Tasso was so kindly cared for byCHURCHES. 201the monks in 1588 is now a market garden. The Monasterybuildings are Municipal offices. The church is full of sculpture,but its architecture is spoilt by restorations.Monument of General Guiseppe Trivubrio ( 1757), Domenico Fontana, architect (1607).Chap. 1. 1.- ( Pezzo) Statues and bas-reliefs.Chap. 2. 1 .- ( Piccolomini) .The Nativity (relief)Tomb of Maria of ArragonDonatelli (?)Singing Angels .Rossellino.Ibid.The Ascension (picture) Silvestro di Buoni.Chap. 1. r. ( Liguori) , Virgin and Child Giovanni da Nola.Bas-reliefs Ibid.Chap. 2. r. (Marini) .The Annunciation ( relief) Benedetto da Mariano.Chap. 6. 1. St. John Baptist Giov. da Nola.Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre, contains a life-coloured groupin terra-cotta of figures kneeling before our Saviour, beingportraits of contemporaries of the sculptor, by Modanino.In the choir, frescoes by Simone Papa, and numerous monuments by Nola and others. Organ considered one of the bestin Italy for tone.L'INCORONATA.Nave and left aisle of this church built by Joanna in commemoration of her marriage with her cousin Louis in 1347;she included the Cappella di Giustizia in which the ceremonyhad been performed . From the gallery (entrance from thetower) can be seen a series of admirable frescoes, consideredgood specimens of the school of Giotto. The compartments ofthe Gothic roof are filled with the following subjects:-Baptism. Christening of infant son of Duke of Calabria.Two half figures in this picture, one crowned withlaurel, said to be Petrarch and Laura.Confirmation. Three children of Joanna.Holy Communion. Joanna and others receiving the Host.Holy Orders. Boniface VIII . consecrating Bishop Louis ofAnjou.Confession. Joanna confessing, penitents being scourged,etc.Marriage. Nuptials of Louis and Joanna. Highly admiredas a picture of court life, costume, manners, etc., in the 14th century. Aportrait of Dante said to be discernible.202 NAPLES.Extreme Unction . A dying prince.Triumph of the Church.Chapel del Crocifisso, end of left aisle.Carthusians doing homage to Joanna, and other paintingsFrescoes, SS. Martin and George, etc.S. LORENZO.Gennaro di Cola.This church was built on the site of the ancient BasilicaAugustalis, the meeting- place of the Senate of Naples; originally Gothic ( 1324) , little of that style now remains except themarble doorway, and the ambulatory with chapels, etc.Our Saviour and St. Francis, etc. (over chiefentrance) . Vincenzo Corso.Sepulchral slab of Giambattista Porto, the first encyclopædist.Statues of SS. Francis, Lawrence, and Antony Giov. da Nola.Bas- reliefs on high altar .Ibid.St. Antony, on a gold ground (in chapel) Maestro Simone.Coronation of King RobertIn the choir are monuments of—Catherine of Austria ( 1323). Ibid.Masuccio.Joanna Durazzo, Countess of Eu, and her husband, bothpoisoned on the same day, July 20, 1387.Princess Mary of Durazzo .Charles I., Duke of DurazzoMasuccio II.Ibid.In the cloisters will be found the tomb of Ludovico, Aldemoresco ( 1414), Baboccio.Petrarch resided for some time in the adjoining monastery;and in this church Boccaccio saw the charming lady whom hehas immortalized as Fiametta.S. MARIA DELL' ANNUNZIATA.Founded by Queen Sancia; destroyed, with the exceptionof the sacristry and treasury, by fire, in 1757; rebuilt ( 1782) by Vanvitelli, now one of the finest examples of classical architecture in Naples; forty-four marble columns support the grand cornice.Paintings over high altar and in transept Francesco di Mura.Sas-relief, Nativity and Deposition.وو Descent from the Cross Giov. da Nola.The Caraffa Chapel is very much decorated.CHURCHES. 203The Treasury is a large hall containing an altar, and theTomb of Alfonso SanciaFrescoes of roof (also in sacristy)Bas-reliefs on sacristy pressesDomenico d' Auria.Corenzio.Giov. da Nola.In front of the high altar is the sepulchral slab of the profligate Joanna II.S. MARIA LA NUOVA.Erected in 1258, on site of ancient Torre Mastri; rebuilt1599, by Franco; consists of a nave and transept, and fourteenchapels. Among the paintings on the flat gilt ceiling is theCoronation of the Virgin •Paintings on the Dome Frescoes on roof of choirCrucifixion, etc.• Santafede.Corenzio.Simone Papa the Younger.Chapel 1 , right. The Archangel Michael Amato il Vecchio.Chapel 3 , "• Marco da Siena.Chapel of the Crucifix. Frescoes by Corenzio.In the right transept is a fine 15th century work with basreliefs, the monument of Galeazzo Šanseverino.In the adjacent chapel, beautiful wooden crucifix by Giov.da Nola.Over the high altar (very much repainted) —Madonna Tommaso degli Stefani.In the nave. Two figures of Children Luca Giordano.Chapel (2 , left) of S. Giacomo della Marca is reallya church, having seven altars, erected by " il gran capitanoGonsalvo da Cordova, whose nephew Ferdinand, in the chivalrous spirit of the age, raised the two monuments to his chiefenemies, Pietro Navarro and Lautrec.The chapel on the right of high altar containsA picture .Frescoes on vault Spagnoletto (?).Stanzioni.On left of high altar a lofty monument to three of the Counts of Sangro.In the refectory of the adjacent suppressed convent arefrescoes from Scripture history, attributed to the Brothers Donzelli.S. MARTINO.The church of S. Martino is beautifully situated, with splendid views, near the Castle of S. Elmo. Founded in1325, rebuilt in the 17th century. Since the suppression of the204 NAPLES.Carthusian Convent the church bas been shown by governmentcustodians, as an adjunct of the Museum.In the vestibule are some rude frescoes by Micco Spadaro and Bellisario. The interior of the church is perhapsunequalled in Europe for decoration; coloured marbles, forming a long mosaic work, encase the floor, piers, walls, etc.; anopen- work screen of marble parts off the choir.The Ascension (frescoes on roof) Lanfranco.Twelve Apostles (between the windows) . Ibid.Descent from the Cross (over chief entrance), enviouslydamaged by Spagnoletto, under pretence of cleaning it.Moses and Elias·Stanzioni.Spagnoletto.Twelve figures of Prophets over arches of the chapels Ibid.In the Choir many works of art will be found.Frescoes of the VaultSupper at EmmausThe NativityCav. d' Arpino.Completed by Bernardino.Guido.This was one of his finest productions; it was incompleteat his death .Fresco, over the Nativity .On the side walls of the choirThe Last SupperWashing of the Feet .Last SupperInstitution of the Eucharist• Lanfranco.Spagnoletto.Caracciolo.Stanzioni.School ofP. Veronese.The two statues in the choir are by Domenico Bernini andFinelli. The marble ornaments and sculptured rosettes on thepilasters are by Fansaga of Carrara. The marble pavement bythe Carthusian monk Presti. The high altar is from a designby Solimena.There are five chapels on the right, viz.-Chapel 1. (Madonna del Rosario) . A painting byChapel 2. Madonna .Rebuilding of Lincoln Cathedral,and another picture .Frescoes on RoofChapel 3. S. John baptizing our Saviour .Lateral paintingsDomenico Vaccaro.Stanzioni.Andrea Vaccaro.Corenzio.Our Saviour among the Blessed(Frescoes on ceiling) .Carlo Maratta.Grace and Providence (marble statues):. De Matteis.Stanzioni.Vaccaro.CHURCHES. 205Chapel 4. S. Martin • Annibale Caracci.Two lateral paintingsPainted CeilingCharity and Constancy (2 statues).. Solimena.· Finoglia.San Martino (attrib. )Chapel 5. (The Choir of the lay brethren)Altar Painting •Landscapes ( wall frescoes)·Vaccaro.· . Micco Spadaro.Returning from the high altar along the opposite side of the church, we reach successivelyChapel 1. S. NicholasChapel 2. Paintings ·Chapel 3. ( S. Bruno) painted throughout byChapel 4. S. Gennaro and Virgin ( bas-relief)Torture and Death of S. GennaroPachecco di Rosa.• La Mura.Stanzioni.Vaccaro.Caracciolo.Frescoes on ceiling (life of S. Gennaro) Corenzio.Chapel 5. Painted by De Matteis.In the Sacristy.Painted compartment of Roof Ecce hom*oPeter's DenialCrucifixion•• Cav. d'Arpino.Stanzioni.Michael Angelo da Caravaggio.Cav.d'Arpino.Tarsia-work Presses, with reliefs.In the Tesoro.Deposition from the Cross .Triumph of Judith (on the vault) . Said tohave been executed in forty-eight hours,in the artist's seventy- second year.History of the Brazen Serpent •Numerous well- arranged relics in presses.In the Chapterhouse.Frescoes on RoofFounders of religious orders (on the walls)St. John in the DesertFlagellationIn the Hall del Colloquio.Paintings (the life of S. Bruno)In the Cloisters.·Spagnoletto.L. Giordano.Ibid.Corenzio.Finoglia.Stanzioni.Ippolito Borghese.Avanzini.White marble Doric columns, forming quadrangle.Statues of Saints Fansaga &Vaccaro.Adjoining the cloisters are several rooms in which anhistorical museum is being formed, under the care of Commendatore Fiorelli, director of the National Museum. Collections206 NAPLES.of porcelain, faïence from Capodimonte, Majoliche di Castello,Neapolitan civil and military costumes, Venetian glass and furniture, silk and arras, plans, maps, etc. Note also ascuriosities:-Gala carriage of Naples Municipality.Flags vowed to S. Lorenzo in the plague of 1656.Hat of Cardinal Ruffo.Chair of President of Parliament in 1848.Various MSS. , newspapers, etc.The view from the Belvidere at the end of the ConventGarden is justly celebrated.S, SEVERINO E SOSIO.Formerly attached to a Benedictine monastery. Enlarged and modernized in 1490.Cupola, painted byFrescoes ofthe vaults of Choir and TranseptScheffer.Corenzio.In retouching these works Corenico fell from the scaffoldand was killed . He was buried in this church .Chapel 1. r. Nativity of the VirginChapel 2. r. Sculptured Altar-pieceChapel 3. r. Assumption of the VirginChapel 5. r. Annunciation .Frescoes on side wallsMarco da Siena.Naccarini.Chapel 6. r. (Cimitile Family) lately restored.Adoration of the MagiIn passage leading to Sacristy see-•Marco da Siena.· Criscuolo.Corenzio.Marco da Siena.The graceful tomb of Andrea Bonifacio (a child)Giov. da Nola or Pedro della Piatta.Tomb of Giambattista CicaraIn right transeptNailing Christ to the CrossGiov. da Nola.Andrea de Salerno.Tombs of Mormile family (Dukes of Campochiaro).Chapel of the SanseveriniTomb ofthe three brothers Sanseverini ( poisonedfor sake of their property, in 1516, by their uncle Ascanio)1. transept, Gesualdo Chapel- A Pietà byStatue over Tomb of Vincenzo CarafaThe Crucifixion .1 recess of 1. aisle, Baptism of ChristGiov. da Nola.Domenico d'Auria.Naccarini.Marco da Siena.Perugino (?).CHURCHES. 207Adoration of the Madonna, etc..S. Michael and other Archangel .G. Imperato.G. d'Amato.The High Altar, beautiful Florentine mosaic.Choir Stalls , best wood-carving in Naples.In Crypt over high altar, picture by Zingaro (? ) . InMonastery Court, an ancient plane- tree, whose plantingis ascribed to St. Benedict. In the Cloisters (admissionI fr., and only by permission of the keeper of the archives) arethe 19 frescoes, scenes from the life of St. Benedict, attributed,though with some doubts, to Zingaro and his pupils. Theimmense variety of life- like figures and striking landscapes ofthese frescoes have long been celebrated .OTHER CHURCHES IN NAPLES.There are upwards of 350 churches in Naples, forming, infact, so many museums of architecture, sculpture, and painting -the innumerable tombs and monuments not only interestingto lovers of art, but also profusely illustrating medieval history.To describe all these churches would occupy volumes. Wehave noted, in some detail, the more worthy of attention, andnow briefly mention some of the remainder, which the touristcan visit if inclination prompts and time allows.S. Gesu Nuovo. Frescoes by Solimena, Corenzio, Stanzioni, and Vaccaro; Cupola, etc. , by Lanfranco; Paintings byGiordano, Spagnoletto, etc. S. Paolo Maggiore. Some remains of earlier Temple; Marbles and Paintings by Corenzio,Stanzioni, etc. S. Giacomo degli Spagnuoli. Tomb ofDon Pedro de Toledo (its founder), by Giov. da Nola; Picturesby Marco da Siena, etc. S. Francesco di Paola ( 1817-31) .Inlaid Altar, etc.; modern paintings and sculptures. S. Mariadel Carmine. Statue of Conradin by Schöpp, after Thorwald- sen. S. Angelo a Nilo. S. Pietro a Maiella. Chiesadel Sannazaro. St. Michael overcoming Satan, by Leonardoda Pistoja; Monument of Poet Sannazaro. S. AgnelloMaggiore. Statuary, Giov. da Nola; paintings, Santacroce,Domenico d'Auria, etc. SS. Apostoli (said to have beenfounded on ruins of Temple of Mercury, by Constantine).Frescoes, paintings, mosaics, etc.; tomb of Poet Marini.L'Ascencione. S. Anna and S. Michael, both by L. Giordano.S. Brigida. Some of the best works of L. Giordano, who was buried here. S. Carlo all' Arena. S. Charles giving theSacrament to the dying during the plague at Milan, a celebratedpainting by Giuseppe Mancinelli; fine marble crucifix by Michael208 NAPLES.Angelo Naccarino. S. Caterina a Formello. Later Re- naissance. The Crocelle. Tomb of Rev. J. C. Eustace. S.Giovanni Evangelista. Built by the Poet Pontanus ( 1492) ,who covered interior with Greek inscriptions. S. GiovanniMaggiore (partly fallen) . Baptism of the Saviour, one of thebest works of Merliano. S, Giovanni da Pappacoda. Remarkable Gothic portal, by Antonio Baboccio. S. Giuseppe aChiaja. Monument to Lord Holland ( 1859); Sta. Restituta,by Molinari; sculptures by Solari. S. Gregorio Armeno,on site of Temple of Ceres. Paintings by L. Giordano. S.Maria degli Angeli. Holy Family, Andrea Vaccaro; other paintings by De Matteis, etc. S. Maria della Catena.Grave of Adiniral Caracciolo (see " Life of Nelson " ) . S.Maria donna Regina. Paintings on Altar, Criscuolo;paintings and frescoes, L. Giordano; Tomb of Queen Mary.S. Maria della Grazie a capo Napoli . Embellishedwith works of Beinaschi, Giov. da Nola, Santacroce, Domenicod'Auria, Andrea da Salerno, Caccavello, etc. S. Maria delPianto, over victims of plague of 1656. Virgin restrainingthunderbolts, Andrea Vaccaro; two pictures relating to theplague, Giordano. S. Maria di Piedigrotta, 1353, formerly scene of an annual festival (see p. 246) . S. Mariadella Pieta dei Sangri, or Capella di Sansevero.Remarkable allegorical statues, proof of manual dexterity ratherthan high art-Modesty, form and features shown through aveil; Vice Undeceived, a man struggling from a net; DeadChrist, covered with a sheet. Bas- relief of the Passion, byCerebrano. S. Maria della Sanita, has an undergroundchurch attached. Pictures by Giordano, Vaccaro, etc. Montedella Misericordia. Altar- piece, Caravaggio; Samaritanand S. Peter, Santafede; S. Paolino, Corenzio; the Redeemer,Giordano. S. Pietro ad Aram. Descent of the Cross,Santacroce; Virgin and Saints (curious) , Protasio Crivello; Tombof Sta. Campeda, and Miraculous Well. S. Pietro Martire.Assumption and Madonna, Silvestro de' Buoni; several royaland other Tombs, 15th and 16th cent. SS. Pietro e Paolo.Greek liturgy used here: frescoes by Corenzio. S. Teresa (inStrada di Capidomonte). The Visitation, by Santafede; Sta.Teresa, by De Matteis Flight out of Egypt, and other pictures,by Giacomo del Po; two pictures (in style of Guido), L. Giordano; some paintings by Stanzioni. S. Teresa (in Largo S.Teresella a Chiaja) , built in 1650 , by Fansaga; Repose in Egypt,nd other pictures, by L. Giordano.THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. 209THE NATIONAL MUSEUM.

Open daily, from 9-3, except on certain holy- days. Admission, I franc; children, 50 cent. Free on Sundays, from Io to I P.M.The Museum Building was originally intended for astable. It was commenced in 1586; original design interrupted, and the building was left incomplete till 1610; it wasthen assigned to the University, and inaugurated in 1616 as theRegii Studii. After various vicissitudes, it was arranged for apublic museum towards the close of the last century. It wasenlarged at various times by the Bourbons, who named it the Reale Museo Borbonico. In 1860 General Garibaldi declaredthe Museum, etc., to be national property. Victor Emanuel had the whole establishment reorganized, and extensivecollections were added during his reign, more especiallythose known as the Cumean, Santangelo, and Palatina collections. The classifications, etc., have been carried out by thelearned senator, Giuseppe Fiorelli, Director of the Museum and the Excavations at Pompeii.Permission for copying must be obtained at the secretary's office on the first floor.The following abbreviations are used in our synopsisof the contents of the Museum, to indicate the localities fromwhence the objects exhibited have come:-B. Borgia Museum.C. Capua.F. Farnese Collections.H. Herculaneum.Noc. Nocera.N. Naples.Pæ. Pæstum.Pou. Pozzuoli.No. Nola. R. Ruvo.P. Pompeii.S. Stabia.Entrance Hall.Sixteen Columns of ancient green marble, from S. Agata de' Goti.Right.-Alexander Severus. Colossal. F. Four Roman Consuls.Flora.H.Colossal . Head modern.

• The Museum is closed onJan. I and 6, March 14, Easter Day, Ascension Day, Corpus Christi, first Sunday in June, June 29, Aug. 15, Sept. 8

and 19, Nov. 1 , Dec. 8 and 25.14210 NAPLES.Left.-Genius of Roman People. Colossal. F. Four Roman Consuls. H.Urania. From Pompey's Theatre at Rome. F.Staircase. The Ocean, The Nile, a Lion, and two Venuses,all from the Farnese Collections.Ground Floor. -Ancient Frescoes and Mosaics.FIRST HALL.Pompeian paintings, arabesques, landscapes, etc.Compartment ix.-Faun and Bacchante, from house of M.Diomede. One of largest Pompeian paintings.viii.-Large painting from House of Pansa.SECOND HALL.Game, Fish, Fruit, Birds, etc.Comp. xi .-Notice small painting of Apples, Crystal Vase with water, etc.xiii.-Two Stags and Geese.Garden with Iron Railing and Peaco*ck.xiv.-Small painting ( third row), found at Herculaneum 1745; said to be caricature of Senecaand Nero, as a Parrot and Grasshopper.THIRD HALL.Comp xv.-300. Apollo, Chiron and Esculapius. P.xvi.-Tritons and Sea Monsters. S.xvii.-271 and 269. Two Nereids. S.Hylas carried off by Nymphs.lamenting. P.Herculesxix.-(below window) Phryxus and Helle. P.(r. ofwindow) 366. Europe, Asia, and Africa. P.xx.-373 . Religious Ceremonies in honour ofCeres. P.xxi. to xxiii .-Religious Ceremonies of Isis and Osiris, andother Egyptian symbols, divinities, etc.(Temple of Isis, Pompeii) .See, on two octagon tables, some Water Colours found in aPompeian shop.Comp. xxiv. -Ulysses removing the Palladium. P.Sophonisbe and Massinissa. Scipio standingby. P.xxvi.-Medea and her Children . P.xxvii.-Meleager and Atalanta. Wild Boar, etc. P.THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. 211FOURTH HALL.From Comp. xxviii .-Hercules and Omphale. Cupid, etc. the house of Marc. Lucretius at Pompeii.The Cyclop Polyphemus receiving a Letter from Galatea. H.xxix. -Perseus showing Andromeda the reflectionof the Gorgon's Head. P.xxx.-Hercules delivering Dejanira.xxxi.-Telephus fed bythe Hind; Hercules, Fame, etc. Eneas Wounded.The Trojan Horse. Laocoon at foot of column.Cassandra alone, etc.xxxii .-Infant Hercules Strangling the Serpents. Alcimæna terrified; Jupiter on throne; Amphitrion guarding Iphicles.Hercules Killing the Lion.xxxiii . Some fine small pictures. Note especiallyA Concert, The Toilette, A Lady Sketching,The Triclinium. (All in first lower row.) P.xxxiv. Pylades Delivering Letter from Iphigenia toOrestes.XXXV.-Concerts. P.xxxvi.-Dirce's Death . Dragged by Bulls to the Rocksof Cythera. P.On the upper part.-Charity. Two instancesof parents in prison sustained by daughters.xxxvii.-Theseus in Crete. Monster destroyed. Rescued people round their deliverer. H.xxxviii.-A Scene in the Forum . P.Schoolmaster and Pupils. P.The Baker's Shop. P.Æneas, a caricature. P.Venus at her Dressing-table. P. Silence. P.Sappho with stylus and tablets . P.Dwarfs and Pigmies (from inns at Pompeii) .xxxix.-Chiron the Centaur, and Achilles.Briseis given up by Achilles to the heralds ofa*gamemnon. P.Achilles recognized by Ulysses. Ajax grasping Achilles' arm. Deidamia, and her fatherLycomedes. P.212 NAPLES.Blind Beggar and Lady (perhaps Ulysses andPenelope). F.Comp. xl .-Sacrifice of Iphigenia. Diana intervening.Orestes and Pylades. H.xli. to xliv . - Centaurs of both sexes. Rope-dancers. P.FIFTH HALL.Comp. xlv. -Woman selling little Cupids (a much-admiredpicture) . S.Amusem*nts of Childhood: Hunting, Fishing,Hide- and- Seek, etc. H.xlvi.-Zephyrus' Wedding. P. Throne of Mars and Venus. P.xlvii.-The Three Graces.xlviii. Diana and Endymion. H.xlix . -Mars and Venus. P.1.-Pan and Cupid Fighting. Silenus, Bacchus,etc. H.(under the window) Bacchus in arms of Silenus. H.li.-(on the right) Bacchus led by Cupid to Ari- adne. H.liii.-Thirteen Dancers (or Bacchantes) . P.SIXTH HALL.Comp. lviii.-Mercury receiving Money. P.Etruscan Painting representing Funeral Pro- cessions. R.lix .-Etruscan Painting, earlier than Pompeian epoch.Warriors returning. Found in soldier'stomb. Pæ.lx.-Narcissus. P.lxi. , lxii ., lxiii. —Fine Views and Landscapes. P. lxiv. -Ceres Enthroned. Bacchus Enthroned. P.lxv., lxvi . , lxvii .-Views and Landscapes. P. lxviii. The Seven Planets of the Week. P.Tethys preparing Arms for Achilles. P.(below the window) Apollo condemning Marsyas to death.Leda and Jupiter. P.Ixxi. Io taken to Egypt. P. Wedding of Jupiter and Juno. From theTragic Poet's House, Pompeii.Jupiter in the Rainbow. H.THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. 213Comp. lxxii.-Monochromes.1. The Centaur Eurisotheus.2. Five Girls, with Greek names given.3. Tragic Actors: 4. Probably Silenus.The Mosaics.In centre. -Triumph of Bacchus. C.Comp. i.-Boxer and Cestus. H.ii.-Phryxus and Helle. H.Three Graves. Baja.Wedding of Neptune and Amphitrite. P. iii.-Dog chained, with motto, "Cave Canem," fromTragic Poet's House, Pompeii.iv.-Fishes, etc. , from House of the Faun, Pompeii.v. —Cat killing a Quail. House of the Faun, Pompeii. Festoon (once formed threshold ofthe House of the Faun) .Genius of Bacchus on a Panther, once part ofthe pavement in the House of the Faun atPompeii.(Near the window) The Nile (Ibis, Crocodiles, etc.) . P.Comp. vii.-Bacchus. H.Lycurgus fleeing from Panther of Bacchus. H.A Comic Scene; masked persons at table.Coragium, or background of an ancient stage.P. From house of Omerico.Another Comic Scene; three actors playing. P.A Mountain Deity. H.Two co*cks after the Fight. P.Harpy or Syren (winged woman, with claws,etc.) H.Skeleton and Vases (dining- room ornament) . H. viii. Theseus in Crete. Minotaur slain.Hall of Inscriptions, and of the Farnese Bull.The inscriptions in this part of the Museum are a mine of information to the scholar; but we can, of course, barely allude to them. M. Fiorelli's work on the subject will supply thestudent's needs.IN FIRST CORRIDOR.Two Columns from Appian Way, with Oscan Inscriptions.IN FOLLOWING HALL.Atreus and Tiberius; colossal statues. Farnese.214 NAPLES.LARGE HALL.81 & 82. The celebrated Heracleian Tables; the subjectof a work by Rev. Mr. Mazzocchi. Found at Taranto.In the centre. Cepollino Column of remarkable colour.79 & 80. Bronze Tablets found by Tarpeian Rock.The Farnese Hercules . -Most celebrated ancient colossal statue. From the Baths of Caracalla at Rome. Sculpturedby Glycon of Athens.Arustic calendar of very early date, showing physical phases,agricultural duties, and religious ceremonies of each month.Rome.1058. Public Measures in marble; verified at Capitol . P.The Farnese Bull (Toro Farnese). This celebratedwork was found by Paul III. , in the Baths of Caracalla at Rome,whither, according to Pliny, it was brought from Rhodes. Itrepresents Dirce, attired as a Bacchante, being bound to thehorns of a frantic bull, by the two sons of Antiope. Thispiece of sculpture is the work of Apollonius and Tauriscus, whoflourished long before the reign of Augustus.Basem*nt Story. - Christian Inscriptions, andEgyptian Collection.FIRST CHAMBER.Inscriptions from Catacombs.SECOND CHAMBER.416 (red number) .68 ).Isis, with key of Nile, etc. Serapis on throne.P.1978 (yellow number).942 & 944Pæ.Frog in Nero Antico.). Two Ibises, in bronze and marble.From Temple of Isis, Pompeii.Glass Cases, containing statues in paste, stone, lapis-lazulietc., of cats, oxen, and other animals sacred to Egyptian worship.Mummies in cases.THIRD CHAMBER.Various Egyptian curiosities.Ceremony of Veiling of Isis, in white stone.(Near the window). Greek Papyrus found at Ghizeh, treating of excavations of the Nile. B.Fragment of Sarcophagus, granite.THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. 215Priest on his knees, basalt.Tablet of Isis. P.Granite Sepulchral Monument, with 22 figures; supposed about the time of Sesostris.Point of red granite Obelisk, Palestine.Ascending again to the grand level, we enter a corridorwith other ancient frescoes, fragments, medallions, basso-relievofigures, etc.A Pillar from Fountain of Fuller's Shop, Pompeii; paintedwith scenes from the fuller's business.Marble Statues and Basso-Relievi.FIRST CORRIDOR. -EMPERORS.249, 163.*Julius Cæsar. F.24, 331. Augustus as a youth (bust) . F.654, 760. Tiberius crowned (colossal bust) . Pou.230, 151. Tiberius in youth, with cornucopia. F. 217, 172. Bust of Hadrian. F.232 , 152. Fine Bust of Marcus Aurelius. H.239, 157. Lucius Verus, statue with Chlamyde.213, 137. Heliogabalus. F.257, 168. Plautilla, wife and victim of Caracalla.497, 233. Julia Pia, wife of Septimius Severus.207, 131. Septimius Severus. F.234, 154. Commodus (very rare) .461 , 191. Faustina.220, 142. Antoninus Pius (colossal bust) . F. 251 , 164. Marcus Aurelius.236, 155. Trajan (arms modern) . Minturno210, 134. Titus (colossal head) . F.218, 140. Vitellius (head and neck modern) .241, 143. Nero. F.F.F.F.233, 153. Claudius (one of first discovered in Herculaneum) .249, 159. Caligula (very rare) . This statue was in fragments,the head being used to fasten ropes to by the boatmen of the Carigliano.258, 169. Augustus Cæsar (head modern) .215, 162. Julius Cæsar (colossal bust).H. The best likenessextant. F.

• We give both the red and yellow numbers.

216 NAPLES.Second Corridor, Portico of the Balbi.198, 62. M. Nonius Balbus, Junior. Finest equestrian statueyet discovered. From Basilica at Herculaneum.585, 320. Consul, finely draped. P.521 , 256. Calliope. H.35, 44. M. N. Balbus, Junior. Theatre of H.39, 42.140, 47. Four daughters of Balbus, hair once gilded . Theatre48, 52.(57.of H.635, 396. Chastity. Finely veiled Statue.648, 354. Herodotus and Thucydides. F.78, 499. Eumachia, a priestess. F.M. Nonius Balbus, the elder.6, 20. Warrior on horseback.BUSTS IN FOUR Rows.First Row. Seneca ( F. ) , Brutus ( F. ) , etc.Second Row. Agrippina, Cleopatra, etc.P.Third Row. Terentius, Marius, Cicero (see prominence oncheek, whence name) .Fourth Row. Various, unknown.On pedestals.43, 49. Vicira Archas, wife of Balbus. H.51, 54. Marc. Non. Balbus the Elder. H.148, 307. Socrates, with motto in Greek, " Not only now, butalways, it has been my habit to follow only the dictates of my judgment. Mature reflection, Ifind, after strict examination, to be the best of allthings."OTHER BUSTS IN FOUR Rows.First Row. Demosthenes, Euripides, Anacreon, etc.Second Row. Socrates, Zeno, Pasidomus, Herodotus, etc. Third Row. Juba, Themistocles, Solon, Lycurgus, etc.Fourth Row. Lysias, Archimedes, Homer, Pyrrhus, etc.61 , 11. In a niche. A Dacian King. F. 8. A Hunter. Life-like statue. F.Inner Halls.FIRST HALL.-DIVINITIES.Apollo. Colossal porphyry statue.F.411. Ornament of door of Eumachia's house. P.THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. 217168, 110. Diana Lucifera. C.581 , 215. Diana of Ephesus. F.88, 75. Diana the Huntress. F.88, 109. Jupiter on ancient column. F.187, 119. Jupiter Ammon on ancient column.86. Ceres, with torch. F.And various statues of Bacchus, Juno, Apollo, etc.SECOND HALL.192, 120. The Farnese Bacchus.179, 114. Antinous, with attributes of Bacchus.And other statues of Mars, Mercury, Minerva, etc.; alsoabout fifteen Venuses, mostly portraits of Roman Empresses in form of Venus.THIRD HALL (OR HALL OF THE ATLAS) .297, 308. Atlas, under Globe; 42 constellations depicted upon it. F.558. Cupid on a Dolphin. C. 71, 76. Cybele, enthroned . F.123, 94. Esculapius. Found in Island Tiberina.70. Ganymede and the Eagle. F.And various Satyrs, Cupids, etc.FOURTH HALL (OF THE MUSES).119. Hercules and Omphale. F.28. Dying Amazon on horseback. F.And various statues of Hercules, also of the Muses-ofwhich the best are, 524, 259, Calliope; 508, 243, Mnemosyne;511, 246, Melpomene.FIFTH HALL (OF THE FLORA) .In centre, large mosaic from House of the Faun, Pompeii,representing the Battle of Issus.174. Farnese Flora. Life-like colossal statue. Found inthe baths of Caracalla, at Rome.16, 30. The celebrated Farnese Gladiator.36 & 18. Gladiators. F.22, 35. Athlete ( Protesilaus?) . H.SIXTH HALL. MARBLE BAS-RELIEFS.531, 236. Large Vase. The education of Bacchus. Found atGaeta, long used to moor boats to-then a bap- tismal font in Cathedral of Gaeta.218 NAPLES.532. A large vat.554. A large vat.Jupiter, Mars, etc.The vintage.From Francavilla'sgarden.554, 570. One of several urns containing human ashes. P.Against right walls. Many disks and medallions on thewalls. Observe one, a satyr in red on one side, on the other Bacchus in relievo. Masks for fountains.Against left walls. Ancient galleys.Alto-relief. Marriage. P.Different bas- reliefs . Pork-butcher; funeral rites, etc.SEVENTH HALL.90. A Sarcophagus, Bacchanal, etc. F.346. The Young Hercules. H.365. Initiation into Mysteries of Bacchus. F.186. Temptation of Helen . Noja's Collection .18. Hercules and Omphale. The twelve labours around it.528, 263. Apollo and the Three Graces. F.354. Comic Scene . P.328. Perseus delivering Andromeda. F.With other reliefs, sarcophagi, candelabra, etc.EIGHTH HALL.Various lustral basins, alabaster columns, etc., also the following masterpieces (in the last corridor).Torso of Venus. Grecian sculpture.259, 170. Caracalla ( on a column from Pompeii) . F.Faustina, wife of Antoninus Pius. On a cipollinomarble column, from Pompeii (Baja) .1732. Antoninus Pius. On similar column (Baja) .349. Antinous. Arms and legs modern. F.Pompey the Great and younger Brutus.columns, from Pompeii.On two100. Juno (in a niche) . One of the finest statues of thisgoddess. F. 118. Minerva. F.645, 406. Homer. Superior to any other effigy of this poet. F.A large Porphyry Basin, on fine pedestal. Baths of Caracalla, Rome.177. Psyche. A Torso. Distinguished for grace of formand beauty of feature. Capua .Eschines (Aristides) . Theatre of H.644, 98. Venus Victorious. Capua.18, 32. Doriphoro of Polyclete. H.THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. 21952 , 411. Diana. P.150, 102. Minerva. H.84. Electra and Orestes. H.624, 383. Juno, on column. F.In the centre. 34. Harmodius, and, 37, Aristogiton killingthe tyrant Hipparchus. F.30. Giant vanquished by Jupiter.57. Amazon conquered by Athenians.55. A Persian at Marathon.A Gaul conquered by King Attale. F.Venus Callipyge, by Praxiteles .Golden House of Nero at Rome.103. Faun carrying Bacchus. F.1736. Nereid. From Posilipo.214. Agrippina. F.175. Torso of Bacchus (of great celebrity) .Large Bronzes.FIRST HALL.From theIn the centre. A Horse. One of the four of Nero'schariot. H.Colossal Horse's Head. Once belonging to horse thatstood in square of Neptune's Temple, now Largo del Duomo.Two Stags.Various animals on pedestals. P. & H.In glass case, various small animals. P. & H.At corners of hall. Sappho ( H.) , Diana ( P.) , Livia ( H.) ,Doryhoro of Polyclete (H).SECOND HALL.In centre, Silenus, Narcissus, and Dancing Faun. P.On marble table. Venus (Noc. ) , Victory (P.) , Amazon (H.) ,Alexander (H.) , Bacchus and Ampelus ( Pansa's House, Pompeii) , etc.Agrippina and other busts, at the corners ofthe hall.A large glass case, filled with small statues from Pompeii.A Sleeping Faun. H.THIRD HALL.Mercury in Repose. H. A Drunken Faun. H.Two Discoboli. H.Colossal statue of Claudius Drusus.Augustus deified.220 NAPLES.FOURTH HALL.In the Middle. Nero on horseback (Forum of Pompeii).On the right. Scipio Africanus. See wounds on head.Near the window. Three glazed compartments of clasps, axes,missiles, ornaments, etc.Glass case of Grecian helms, greaves, frontlets, etc. Pæ. & R. Glass case of Gladiators' armour.Glass case of Italian and Roman lances, daggers, helms, etc.Entresol. -Glass and Terra- Cotta from Pompeii.The first two halls still contain some medieval and foreignobjects. Classification incomplete, but a few important items will be noted.FIRST CHAMBER.Middle Age and Indian articles.(Only the yellow number quoted here.)430. Bronze Tabernacle; bas- reliefs, mysteries of the Passion.Once covered with cameos and jewels.431. Rosso antico cup, from Rome. Various bronze andmarble busts, medallions, statuettes, masks, lamps, etc.Small pyramidal cabinet of objects brought from Otaheiteby Captain Cook.SECOND CHAMBER..Chinese ivory basket.Veiled Statue, Modesty San Martino.Indian Paintings from the Borgia Museum, of which the mostinteresting are 1014, Hell; 1040, Paradise; 993 , Brahma,Shiva, and Vishnu; 992, Shiva.Eight pictures on carved cocoa-wood, and representingDiana's Bath, Terrestrial Paradise, Wild Boar hunting,etc., numbered 1290, 1299, 1289, 1280, 1268, 1281 , 1269.Large Fresco, from peristyle of a house near Amphitheatre,Pompeii; representing fight in auditorium of the Amphitheatre,between people of Nocera and Pompeii, for some frivolous cause.THIRD CHAMBER. ANTIQUE GLASS.Containing about 40co specimens of articles made fromglass- bottles, cinerary urns, cups, dishes, etc.773. Amphora of blue glass, white enamel bas- relief, found in Street of Tombs, Pompeii.1920. Panes of window-glass, chiefly from the house of Diomede, Pompeii.THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. 221-FOURTH CHAMBER. -TERRA COTTA.On the left two cabinets, with a vast number of lachrymals;see also bottle still holding condensed balsam . This room ischiefly occupied with objects in terra cotta from Pompeii,vases, spherical vessels, cups, plates, etc.FIFTH CHAMBER.8203. Man in Mantle, life size. Lids of Etruscan Tombs.Two colossal statues, Jupiter and Juno. From Templeof Isis, Pompeii.4525. Dovecote, in form of Amphitheatre.House tiles, building ornaments, etc.Cases of Pompeian lamps.Fourth case. Votive offerings (heads, feet, hands, etc.)Fifth case. Animals and birds.Last case (on left) . 4465 (et seq.) Money boxes. 1176,(et seq. ) Ink stands and boxes.Against the right walls, near passage into sixth chamber, are the celebrated Volscian Bas-reliefs found at Velletri. Important monument of remote antiquity. For full description see M. Becchetti's work.First case.SIXTH CHAMBER.Masks and ornaments for gutters and fountains.Models of fruits.Second case. 7194. Venus Aphrodite.5270. Armed Gladiator.Various statuettes of Divinities, etc..Beautiful lamps.Third to eighth case. Statuettes of Sacrificers with animals, divinities, caricatures, etc.Ninth case. Altars, heads, vessel covers.Near the window. On a column, statuette with coloured drapery,perhaps Ceres. Two Statuettes, an actor and actress . Private house.Tenth case. Rhytons or drinking cups.Other cases of bas-reliefs, vases, etc.The Cumaan Collection.P.In two rooms, inherited by Prince of Carignano, from Countof Syracuse, and presented by the former to National Museumin 1861. About 2000 articles, chiefly vases, terra cottas,bronzes, gold and glass articles, etc.222 NAPLES.FIRST ROOM.Pateræ, perfume vases of terra cotta, bronze vases, lamps,dice, mirrors, strigils, coins.SECOND ROOM.Notice the wax mask with crystal eyes from tomb at Cumæ,found near a headless skeleton. Italo-Greek vase, with twelvefigures representing contests of the Amazons and Lapitha.UPPER FLOOR.Articles of Intrinsic Value, Jewellery and Plate.The floor of this room consists of Pompeian Mosaics.In a Glass case. Strip of Asbestos cloth, found in a cineraryurn in the Abruzzi, various fragments, gilded torso of Venus,etc.First cabinet.Second cabinet.""9دوSilver.Vases, goblets, armlets, necklaces, etc. Sacrificial vases. P.Little silver skeleton. P.Statuette of Abundance. P.Kitchen utensils, etc. P.Near the window. Italo-Greek vase.Combat of Greeks and Trojans..16. A Strainer (pierced in design) . H.Beautiful figures.Spoons; some with pointed handles (perhaps for use asforks). P.129. Satyr on Rock with Lyre. H.126. Bronze Sun-dial in shape of a ham.99, 110. Diana and Apollo. Oval high-reliefs.77, 75. Hair-pins.59. Death of Cleopatra.Rings, Pastry cups, etc.Third cabinet. 14. Mortar-shaped vessel. Apotheosis of Homer. H.Tripods, cups, saucers, dishes, etc. P.216. Bronze handled pail. H.Gold.First cabinet, 1, 2, 3 , 4. Bracelets, necklaces, and ear- drops from the House of Diomede, Pompeii.Two bracelets, serpent-shaped, weighing two Neapolitanpounds. Home of the Faun, Pompeii.Solid gold bull, Syracuse.THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. 223422. Magnificent Necklace, with 21 masks of Silenus. Foundin a Greek vase.Diadem, with superb ornaments. Greek tomb.131. Gold and garnet necklace ( S. Agata dei Goti) .Numerous gold pins, eardrops, necklaces, etc. , etc.On a column. Only gold lamp found in Pompeii.On a small glazed table. Large gold chain, bracelets, necklace, several pairs of eardrops, etc., found with eleven skeletonsin upper part of a house in Pompeii.On a column under a bell-glass. Very large earrings, ring,and gold coin, from a tomb at Taranto.Second cabinet. Gold balls, worn by young patricians, H.Necklaces, earrings, etc. Pieces of rock crystal, P. Caricature statuette of amber.Near the window. The celebrated Tazza Farnese; inestimable and unique. A cup of Oriental sardonyx-outside,in relief, Medusa; inside, eight figures, apparently referring tothe Egyptian harvest festival.The valuable collection of several hundred Cameos andIntaglios should next be examined. Also, a variety ofengraved Scarabei . Amongst the cameos, notice 5 , 16,19, 29, 44, 48, 64. Amongst the engraved stones, 219, 232,373, 390, 413.The Table of the Rings is of great interest. Many of them are set with fine stones. Most of them came from H.or P.Double rings. Some say these were wedding rings.Rings in imitation of serpents.Very large ring, with well- cut head of Brutus, probably used as a seal.Ring, with convex emerald plasma, said to be intended tohold poison.Ring, with cameo mask, worn by Charles III. after its discovery at Pompeii. On leaving for Spain, he deposited it in the Museum.Necklace ornaments, with three standing figures.Ring with woman's portrait in onyx.COLLECTION OF COINS AND MEDALS.Founded by the Farnese family; largely increased by variouscollections and by discoveries at Pompeii; now superior to anyother numismatic collection. Eighty thousand specimens infour chambers. I. Greek; II . and III . Roman; IV.224 NAPLES.Middle Age and Modern. The last chamber has alsothe dies and stamps of the old Mint of Naples, and a numismatic library. It would be idle to attempt to particularize, andwe must refer our readers who are specially interested in thisbranch to Fiorelli's Catalogues. The floors of these rooms aremosaics from Pompeii and Herculaneum .RESERVED CABINET.For male visitors only. Contains various illustrations of Paganlicense.MIDDLE AGE COLLECTION.In the Fourth Hall of Paintings of the Neapolitan schoolLarge Armoire ( 1600) of walnut; superb reliefs, Lifeof St. Augustine. In this armoire, the following, amongstother objects, are arrayed:-Statuettes, crucifixes, and bas- reliefs in ivory.Sword and poniard of Alexr. Farnese.Ebony caskets, snuff- boxes, chalices, etc.In another Armoire, a beautiful porcelain service, formerlybelonging to Cardinal Borgia.Majolica Ware. Especially notice a dish, the Slaughter of the Innocents.Crucifixes and censers.Near the balcony. The Farnese Casket, in silver gilt,erroneously attributed to Benvenuto Cellini. In form of atemple. Statuettes of Mars, Minerva, Venus, and Bacchus at each corner.Nearthe other balcony. A divine Huntress, with the Geniusof the Chase on a stag. A gilt silver toy of some Farneseprince, moving by clockwork within.SMALL BRONZES.In this collection, the private life, taste, and skill of theancients are illustrated by about eighteen thousand objects foundin Pompeii and Herculaneum.FIRST SALOON.-In the centre, on a marble table. Superb Candelabrum. House of M. Arrius Diomede. P.1393. Triclinium with five feet.Table for fountain. H.1389. Bisellium (probably pro- consular seat) . H. Theatre.Two lecisternal benches. P.THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. 2251436. Large lustral basin.Tripod, adorned with garlands and ox-heads. Temple of Isis, P.Shackles, discovered with skeletons in soldiers ' quarters. P.Small economical furnace.Folding table, bath- tubs, braziers, etc.Near the balconies. Two Curule chairs.Four cases.Candelabra, etc.Lamps, lanthorns, standards, etc. 5th case. Articles of iron for husbandmen and artisans,pickaxes, spades, knives, scissors, crowbars, etc. On the 6th case. Pie-dishes, candlesticks, etc.In the 6th to 9th cases inclusive. Pastry-moulds, large stove,with hollow for cooking eggs. Pie-dishes, frying- pans.On 10th case. Cauldron, window- grating, etc.In 10th case. Ornaments and trimmings for furniture anddoors; rings for door knockers; nails and nailheads, etc. Near the door. A measure for solids.On 11th case. Weights and balances. Ten steelyards, 2ndand 4th verified at Capitol.11th to 13th cases. Weights and measures, compasses, etc.14th case. Joints formed of bone tubes. Door and furnitureornaments. Gilded serpent. Stag-horns.15th and 16th cases. Oblong basins, jugs, vases .17th and 18th cases. Culinary and sacrificial vases.19th case. Basket- shaped vases for blood of victims.SECOND SALOON. -In the centre.Pompeii, in cork.Unfinished model ofNear central balcony. Stopco*ck for aqueduct, Capri.Leaden vases for the impluvia.On 1st case. Large kettles.In 1st and 2nd cases. Bells and handles.In 2nd case. Handles, locks and keys (notice especially5640 and 10,476) , hinges, and joints.In 3rd and 4th cases. Bathing and toilet articles. Tiger heads for fountains.In 5th, 6th, and 7th cases. Bronze furnaces. Pots and kettles.In 8th case. Surgical instruments, chiefly from the Houseof the Surgeon, Pompeii. Toilet articles for women .In the 9th case. Surgical instruments. Large collection of medicines. Winder, spindles, etc. Theatre tickets (of ivory) ,many with names of plays, etc.In the 10th case. Cupping glasses . Writing materi:15226 NAPLES.Inkstands. Pen (of reed). Rulers. Fish-hooks. MusicalInstruments. Dice (some loaded) . Tops (probably) . Altars for Augurs, etc.On and in the 11th case. Economical kitchener and dyer'scauldron.12th and 13th cases. Sacrificial or domestic vessels.14th, 15th, and 16th cases. Spoons, tongs, fire- shovels,craters, spits, cheese- graters, etc.17th case. Vases. Notice superb half- oval one, inlaid with silver.18th case. Circular ornament for fountain. Skimmers andbasins, etc.On 19th case. A probable distilling vessel (Surgeon'sHouse. P. )In 19th case. Pateras, basins, incense- box, etc.In 20th case. Elegant teakettle . Pateras, basins.21st case. Pateras, etc. Human arm with bracelet.Andirons. Fire- shovels. Biga and Quadriga for toys.22nd and 23rd cases. Pateras and basins.24th case. Saucepans, pastry irons, timbrels.25th case. Other saucepans, one from H. full of hardened cinders.Against the Wall. 2900. Bell , still in fine tone.On 26th case. Handsome vase. Pails . Chalice, etc. In 26th case. Little perfume altars . Amulets. Lanceheads.In 27th case. Small knives. Buckles. Pails.In 28th case. Bronze shackle for slaves. Harness, curbs,stirrups, bits, bridles, etc.THIRD SALOON. -Decorated in imitation of PompeianFrescoes. Three Couches from Pompeii , inlaid with silver.Three Coffers, magnificently ornamented. P.ITALO-GREEK VASES.More than 4000 vases, in seven saloons, paved with excavated mosaics. Almost all the vases are painted with subjectsillustrating the religious worship and mysteries, or public and private life of the ancients.FIRST SALOON.-507, Vase, a campana, from a rich tombat Armento. Triptolemus and Ceres, etc.In the 2nd and 3rd cabinets are the most ancient vases, comnly called Egyptian .THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. 227In the 1st and 4th cabinets are black vases, improperly calledEtruscan.In the remaining cabinets of this saloon are the vases, commonly known as Greek, belonging to the most brilliant periodof art in Italy, having a black or greenish glazing, and reddecorations.IN THE REMAINING SALOONS (except the SIXTH, whichcontains the so- called Etruscan vases, with black figures on areddish ground) are found the vases belonging to the school ofMagna Grecia, having red figures on a bronze or blackishground.The following vases are also considered noteworthy.SALOON II.-No. 2034, Orestes and Furies (C.) No.2718, Combat of Greeks and Amazons. No. 3231 , Marsyas Condemned (C.)SALOON III . No. 2715 , Dedalus placing Wings on Icarus.No. 1183 , Vase with Horns, very rare on account of handles(Cuma). No. 2716, Vase with Grotesque Heads, etc. ( R.)SALOON IV.-No. 2710, Vase with Marks. Achilles andHector (R.) No. 200, Vase for Perfumes. Marsyas flayed(Canosa).Notice several vases on columns in this SALOON, amongstthem, Nos. 2882 , 3253 , the celebrated Darius Vase (Canosa) .SALOON V.-No. 2357, Feast of Bacchus (Nola) . No.2360, Exploits of Æneas ( Nola) . (Under glass) a vase displaying the Burning of Troy. It bears the inscription, KAAOX,"beautiful," thrice repeated. The most important vase of thecollection .SALOON VI.-No. 2024, Campana Barri. No. 2421 , Vase,with Combat (R.)SALOON VII.-No. 3222, Large Vase, Pluto and Proserpine,etc. (R.)THE SANTANGELO COLLECTION.The ceilings of these three halls have been richly deco- rated. Here are exhibited the objects bought from the Santangelo family, for 215,000 francs, by the Municipality ofNaples.FIRST HALL. -Italo- Greek vases, drinking- cups, etc.SECOND HALL. -Terra- cotta and glass articles. Bronzeidols, helmets, keys, etc.THIRD HALL.-Comp. I. Modern medals, gold, silver, and228 NAPLES.bronze. Comp. II. Specimens of Roman ditto from Campania,Etruria, etc.The cabinets contain antique coins.On the walls, various mosaics.THE LIBRARY.A great hall, 200 feet by 70, and several other rooms.the great hall arePictures, history of Farnese familyCeiling Frescoes .InCarlo Drago.P. Bondelli.A remarkable echo here repeats a sound thirty times.Onthe floor, a meridian line was laid down in 1791, by Casseli and Grassi.In the Library altogether are about 200,000 volumes.Acollection of 300 Aldines, and many rare specimens of earlyGerman or Italian printing. The Library is also rich in MSS. ,Autographs, Missals, Breviaries, etc. , etc. It is open, by aseparate entrance, to all comers, from 9.0 to 3.0 daily, exceptSundays.ARTICLES OF FOOD.Copies of Pompeian frescoes on the walls.In centre ofroom. Amphora with olive oil.21. Bronze saucepan and meat.73. Glass amphora with figs.63. Terra-cotta amphora and something charred.62. Glass amphora with cherries.Fifteen Compartments with objects mostly self-explanatory;shells, wax, cloth, cord, fish, pastry, onions, etc.; biscuit, andfourteen loaves, one with baker's stamp.In an adjoining room, see other copies of frescoes; a modelof the House of the Tragic Poet at Pompeii. Hardened ashes,with impression of form of (supposed) Diomede's wife.Human skull and arm from house of Diomede. Cork modelsof the three temples at Pæstum. Also of the Colosseum atRome, etc.HALL OF THE PAPYRIcontains 1800 of 3000 rolls of MSS. found in Herculaneum.With great difficulty and the exercise of considerable mechanical ingenuity, about 500 have been unrolled, 28 have beenpublished.THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. 229COLLECTION OF ENGRAVINGS.(1900 engravings, known as the Firmiana Collection )BUSTS.Dante in bronze.1. Paolo Farnese III . , Marble7. Giovan. Gaston de Medici, Marble` .32. Ferdinando de Medici, Marble3. Holy Family .4. Love and Venus5. Moses on Sinai 2. A Sacrifice •CARTOONS.(attrib.) Michael Angelo.Bellini.Bellini.Raphael.Michael Angelo.Raphael.Unknown.PICTURE GALLERY.The Picture Gallery is in two wings. In the Right Wingthe first compartment is theRoman School.5. Marine, with ships and figures, sunset effect8. The Holy Family27. Saviour's Cradle, and AngelsClaude Lorraine.Sassoferrato.Ibid.34. The Virgin · Ibid.46. Jesus Falling Beneath the Cross47. Charles III . on HorsebackPolidoro da Caravaggio.Giam. Paolo Pannini.Parmesan and Genoese Schools.I. A Monk . Bernardo Strocci.2, 6, 11 , 20, 36, 39 are all New Testament scenes byCristoforo Storer.3. Woman and Child (rich carpet, flower, etc.) Castiglione.14. Christian Charity35. City of Parma, as Pallas, embracing Alexander Farnese.Schidone.Parmigianino.Lombard and Parmesan Schools.II. S. John the Baptist Bernardino Luini.17. Adoration of the Magi (rich architectural background)18. Jesus and S. John as children .drawing by Leonardo da Vinci24. Visitation, Cradle, and AdorationCesare da Sesto.From aGian . Antonio Boltraffio.Old Lombard School.230 NAPLES.Venetian School.4. Virgin and Infant Jesus, with two nuns6. Anne Boleyn (?)8. Monk's headLuigi Vivarini.(attrib. ) Sebastiano del Piombo.9. Church of SS. John and Paul at Venice 13. Venice from Grand Canal14. Small Holy Family .15. Head of a Young Man16. Venice, from the Rialto20. The Virgin on a crescentIbid.Canaletto.Ibid.Dosso Dossi.Sebastiano del Piombo.22. Venice from Grand Canal, with the Balbiand Foscari Palaces• Canaletto.. Tintoretto.• Canaletto.Ibid.Dosso Dossi.25. Venice, with church of S. Maria della Salute26. Bishop adoring the Virgin and Child Jesus 28. Sea Custom House at Venice33, 48, and 58, S. Sebastian, Adoration and Circumcision39. Our Saviour Bound .•42. Man Whispering in the Ear of Jesus44. The Grand Canal, Venice47. Palace of the Turks, Venice49. Christ before Herod81. Quay of the Schiavoni52. (and 41 ) Doge's Palace, etc.55. Column of the Lions at Venice56. Martyrdom of S. Lawrence· · Canaletto.Garofalo.Bonvicino.. Tintoretto.•Ibid.• Canaletto.Schiavoni.Canaletto.Ibid.Ibid.G. Santacroce (?)Correggio Room.1. Jesus with the Doctors2. Holy Family •3. The Madonna del Consiglio (?)4. Portrait5. Dane and Cupid6. The Infant Saviour Sleeping7. Marriage of S. CatherineSalvator Rosa.Sebastiano del Piombo.Corregio.Van Dyck.Titian.Correggio.Ibid.Titian.Correggio.Ibid.Titian.Spagnoletto.Ibid.Ibid.8. Pope Paul III. and Pierre Louis, his Nephew9. Descent from the Cross10. Virgin and ChildII. Philip II . of Spain ..12. S. Sebastian13. S. Jerome hearing the Trump of Doom 14. S. Jerome in meditation15. Magdalen 16. Head of a MonkGuercino.Rubens.THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. 231Raphael Room.17. Holy Family ( Madonna del Gatto) (?)18. Portrait of Tibaldeo19. Portrait (unknown)20. Holy Family• Giulio Romano.Raphael.Giovanni Bellini.Raphael.21. Leo X. and the Cardinals de Rossi and de Medici Ibid.22. Cardinal Passerini Ibid.23. Virgin and Child Jesus Bernardino Luini.24. Clement VII.Andrea del Sarto.25. Adoration of the Magi Luca d'Olanda.26. Calvary and a Devotee, with Family • Jan Hemmling.27. Parable of the Blind28. The Nativity .29. Virgin and Child 30. UnknownPeter Breughel.Albrecht Dürer.Perugino.Scipione da Gaeta.31. S. Jerome extracting Thorn from Lion's Foot Jan Van Eyck.32. The Last Judgment33. The Transfiguration34. Holy Family .35. Death of Lucretia36. Virgin, Child, and Saints2. Martyrdom of S. Sebastian3. Raising of Lazarus .5. Holy Family6. Infant Jesus .Marcello Venusti.Giovanni Bellini.Giovanni Spagna.Parmigianino.Fabrisio Santafede.Great Saloon of Various Schools.7. Portrait of C. Columbus (presumed)10. Pity •15. Portrait of Antonello, Prince of Salerno16. Infant Jesus and Virgin .17. Paul Farnese III .19. Virgin and Child, Jesus and S. John21. The Magdalen Weeping 22. Virgin Enthroned ·Bart. Schidone.Giacomo da Ponte.Parmigianino.Tintoretto.School of Raphael.Annibale Caracci.Giorgione.Parmigianino.Titian.Lorenzo Lotti.27. S. Jerome Praying to the Virgin for Two Devotees29. Guardian Angel defending Innocence31. Landscape, with Lakes and Temples.by Filippo Lauri. )33. Assumption of the VirginTitian.Santafede.Palma Vecchio.· Domenichino.(Figures Claude Lorraine.Pinturicchio.35. Virgin adoring the Child Jesus, Saints, etc. Bar. Vicarini.232 NAPLES.35. Monk robbed by a Thief (allegorical ofPenitence and the World)37. The Father and Seraphim·38. SS. Domenic, Clara, etc. , adoring Madonna40. His Wife or Daughter, Portrait42. Head of S. Francis d'Assisi43. SS. Benedict, Placidus, and Maurice, andDoctors of the ChurchPierre Breughel.Lud. Mazzoleni.L. Giordano.Parmigianino.Guercino.Andrea Sabbatini da Salerno.51. Head of a Priest (by some called head of Fenelon)52. Architect and Scholar54. Battle Piece55. Portrait of Pope Alexander VI.57. Don John of Austria58. Silenus Drunken, etc. 59. Satyr giving Drink to a BacchantePietro Mignard.(attrib.) Andrea del Sarto.Salvator Rosa.Sebast. del Piombo.Tintoretto.Spagnoletto.Annibale Caracci.60. Assumption of the Virgin Fra Bartolommeo da San Marco.Saloon of the Venuses . -Various Schools.4. The Drinkers (after Velasquez) · School of Seville.6. Moses bringing Water from the Rock9. Marine, a Tempest·16. Venus and Cupid18. Susanna and the Elders19. Venus, Cupid, and Graces26. The Pilgrims at Emmaus29. Adoration of the Shepherds32. Diana and Endymion34. Eruption of Vesuvius36. Raising of Lazarus37. Portrait of ErasmusMicco Spadaro.Joseph Vernet.L. Giordano.Francesco Guarini da SolofraThis concludes the right wing.situate the following rooms:—Tintoretto.Nicolò Vaccaro.Micco Spadaro.Hermann Swanevelt.Francois Volaire.Old Lombard School.After original by Holbein.In the left wing areBolognese School.1. Woman of Samaria at the Well2. Infant Jesus, Virgin, and St. Francis7. Infant Jesus, asleep8. St. John the Evangelist .9. Ulysses welcomed by Princess Nausica12. Angel, with Satan Bound15. Cain killing Abel•Franc. Romanelli.Annibale Caracci.· Guido Reni.Ibid.Ibid.G. Lanfranco.Lionello Spada.THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. 23325. Apollo on the Globe27. Foreshortened Sketch from Life28. Repose of Holy Family .33. St. Peter Walking on the Water34. Holy Family .36. Hercules between Virtue and Vice .37. The Virgin del Silencio .38. Half-length Sibyl 41. St. Carlo Borromeo in adorationAnnibale Caracci.Ibid.G. Lanfranco.Ibid.A. Caracci.Ibid.Lionello Spada.. Franc. Romanelli..Simone de Pesaro.43. Satire on Caravaggio-the Artist smiling at his rival in one corner44. Vanity and Modesty45. Holy Family .47. St. Peter Weeping48. St. Jerome Frightened at Sound of LastTrumpet •55. Rinaldo and Armida in the Enchanted Garden58. SS. Dominic and Augustine .60. Jesus in the Desert attended by Angels 62. Burial of S. Sebastian63. Virgin and Infant Jesus64. St. John the Evangelist65. Group of Angels .66. Study for a S. Matthew67. Fall of Simon Magus9. Judith slaying Holofernes71. St. Eustace before the Cross .2. Holy Family .Tuscan School.4. Marriage of the Virgin5. Resurrection of Jesus6. Holy Family .•·. An. Caracci.Guido Reni.Spagnolo.Guercino.Giov. Lanfranco.An. Čaracci.G. Lanfranco.Ibid.Donato Cresti.G. Lanfranco.Guercino.An. Caracci.G. Reni.Ludov. Caracci.Caravaggio.• An. Caracci.After Andrea del Sarto.Cosimo Roselli.II. In the centre, the Virgin; above, the Father;at the sides, Annunciation, Birth of Jesus,and Adoration of the Magi22. The Two Marys attending the Virgin23. Virgin and Child JesusSodoma.Bronzino,Marco Pino da Siena.Filippo Marotta.Jacopo Pachiarotto.26. Adoration of Jesus by Virgin, Saints, andAngels29. Virgin Enthroned .30. Slaughter of the Innocents.· Lorenzo Sciarpelloni.• Ghirlandaio.Herod present Matteo Giovanni da Siena.234 NAPLES.31. Virgin and Child · Sandro Botticelli.33. Libercus tracing foundations of Church of S.Maria ad Nives at Rome • Gentile da Fabriano.34. Portrait of G. Bernardo (celebrated engraver)36. The Annunciation .39. Entry into Jerusalem 41. Portrait43. Head of a Gentleman44. Adoration of the Magi47. Virgin, S. John, and Child Jesus48. Crowning of the Virgin•·Baldasarre Peruzzi.Filippina Lippi.Agostino Ciampelli.Bronzino.Dom. Puligo.Marc. Pino da Siena.52. Justice crowning Innocence, who is broughtforward by Time, and chaining Vice .54. Portrait of a Lady.Ghirlandaio.Giov. Pesello.Giorgio Vasari.Bronzino.36. Virgin, with Child Jesus, and S. John Agostino Ciampelli.Neapolitan School.(Fourteenth, Fifteenth, and Sixteenth Centuries.)1. The Crucifixion •2. Holy Trinity contemplating the NativityPietro del Donzello.Gian. Filippo Criscuolo.3. S. Martin parting his tunic with Satan disguised as a Beggar6. Virgin Enthroned7. Virgin of the Rosary·8. Angels Crowning S. Catherine9. AngelscarryingtheVirginto Heavento. Virgin "Della Pietà "19 وو 12.13. The Dead Jesus and Mother15. Virgin and Infant Jesus18. Holy Family•P. del Donzello.Lo Zingaro.Francesco Curia.Pompeo Landulfo.GiambattistaCarracciolo.Gian. Bernardo Lama.Ippolito Borghese.Ibid.Giovanantonio d'Amato.20. Jesus on Cross-Virgin and Child22. Virgin and Child -Apostles, etc.29. St. Benedict receiving SS. Maurice and Placidus .31. SS. Jerome and James•Francesco Curia.Simone Papa.Brothers Donzello.Andrea da Salerno.Simone Papa.32. Adoration of the Magi, the masterpiece of Andrea da Salerno.33. S. Benedict with SS. Maurice and Placidus • Ibid.THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. 235Byzantine and Old Tuscan Schools.(In a room openingfrom the Main Saloon . )4. The Annunciation13. St. Clara .21. St. Spiridion enthroned3.5. Annunciation, etc.41. Virgin and Infant JesusAngelo Gaddi.Andrea del Verrocchio.(attrib. ) Cimabue.(attrib.) Taddeo Gaddi.44. Triptych. Annunciation, Descent from theCross, etc. ·52. Virgin and Child, etc.54. Magdalen and Vase of Ointment55. S. Anthony of Padua59. S. Francis d'Assisi •Ricco di Candia.Andrea Velletrano.(attrib. ) Giotto.And. del Verrocchio (?)· Ibid.Ibid. (?)Neapolitan School.(Thirteenth and Fourteenth centuries .)(In an adjoining room.)4. Virgin and ChildI. Magdalene and Vase of Perfume5. Archangel Michael7. St. John the Baptist .•11. Dead Virgin and Apostles .12. Infant Jesus and Mother14. St. James della Marca•Neapolitan School.Silvestro Buono.P. del Donzello.Ang. Roccaderame.Silv . Buono.Ibid.Filippo Tesauro.Maestro Stefanone.(Sixteenth, Seventeenth, and Eighteenth centuries. )1. Revolution of Masaniello in 1647, in the Largo delMercato; heads of executed nobles, etc. 3. St. Francis d'Assisi4. Plague of 16565. Adoration of the Magi 7. St. Augustin arguing with InfidelsMicco Spadaro.And. Vaccaro.M. Spadaro.G. F. Criscuolo.Marco Calabrese.This painter's works are very rare.8. Don John of Austria enters the Largo delMercato in 1648-heads of rebels inplace of those of executed nobles Scipione Compagno.9. St. Bruno at Prayer 17. Death of Lucretia•22. Semiramis at Defence of Babylon25. St. Peter denying Christ .Cav. Massimo Stanzione.·. Ibid.L. Giordano.Pacecco di Rosa.236 NAPLES.27. Salome with Head of John Baptist .28. Battle of Amazons30. Descent from the Cross .32. Repose in Egypt 41. Paradise .51. St. Francis Xavier baptizing and St. Ignatius thanking God52. St. Bruno receiving the rules of his orderfrom the Virgin53. Young Servant Girl and White Dove55. Parable of the Mote and Beam57. Marriage at Cana .59. Madonna delle Grazie60. St. Bruno adoring Jesus61. St. Joseph and Child Jesus62. Judith and Holofernes65. Salome before Herod66. Magdalen WeepingL. Giordano.Ibid.Ibid.N. Vaccaro.. Paolo di Matteis.L. Giordano.Paolo Finoglia.Traversa.Salvator Rosa.L. Giordano.Pacecco di Rosa.Spagnoletto.Pacecco di Rosa.• Pietro Novelli.L. Giordano.67. SS. Rosa, Domenic, etc., adoring Madonnaof the Rosary68. Masaniello Smoking ( Supposed)70. Pope Alex. II. , dedicating church ofMontecasinoSketch for picture in the church-painter's corner.73. Jesus presented to the People Style of Albrecht Dürer.74. Monks of San Martino, praying the Virginto remove the Plague of 165675. Repentance of the Prodigal Son·. A. Vaccaro.L. Giordano.Micco Spadaro.Luca Giordano.portrait in oneL. Giordano.Micco Spadaro.Cavaliere Calabrese.76. Hermit, St. Paul, and St. Anthony in the Desert77. Jesus before CaiaphasM. Spadaro.L. Giordano.Andrea di Leone.Imitation of A. Dürer.78. Hebrews and Amalekites79. Judith and Holofernes Cavaliere Calabrese.80. Carthusian monastery Burned 81. St. Cecilia and Angel82. St. Peter baptizing St. Candid83. Landscape and RiverMicco Spadaro.Bernardo Cavallino.•84. Saviour ordering Tribute to be paid to CæsarDeath of a PilgrimPacecco di Rosa.Mario Mastuzzo .Domenico Viola.Pacecco di Rosa.THE NATIONAL MUSEUM. 23786. Mounted Spanish Soldiery88. Virgin in Sacerdotal Robes89. Shepherd and Bagpipe 90. Battle Piece92. St. Anthony and Child JesusAniello Falcone.Bernardino Siciliano.93. Largo del Mercato during Plague of 165696. Holy Trinity, S. John and S. Francis ·Pacecco di Rosa.Aniello Falcone.Andrea Vaccaro.Carlo Coppola.Luigi Roderigo.German, Dutch, and Flemish Schools.I. One ofthe Kings of the East 4. Virgin and Dead Christ5. Adoration of the Magi 7. Portrait of a Cardinal22. Portrait of a Young Man23. Nicodemus and one of the Maries .25. Popular Festival before Rotterdam.29. Portrait of Emp. Maximilian I.41. Woman taken in Adultery ·•Nich. Frument.R. Van der Weyde.Martin Schiongauer.H. Holbein.. Chris. Amberger.Old German School.Jean Breughel.Lucas von Leyden.L. Cranach.Flemish and Dutch Schools.1. Portrait of an Old Man3. White Charger in Landscape .4, & 15. Viol Players5 A Princess richly Dressed·6. An Amsterdam Burgomaster's Wife 8. Rabbit Hunt12. A Gentleman16. A Bearded Old Man19. Deerhunt21, 22, 23. Market and Shop Scenes24. Two Hounds with Game36. Jesus on the Cross38. St. Cecilia and Angels .39. St. Peter denying Christ46. Jesus blessing the Children52. Saviour on Calvary56. Skaters on a River·Imitation of Rembrandt.P. Wouvermanns.D. Teniers, the younger.Peter Porbus, the elder.61. Twenty- one Portraits of the FarneseFamily62. Small Marine64. Landscape and Cows .73. A Magistrate74. Landscape; Girl on Horseback·· Albrecht Cuyp.Francis Snyders.An. Van Dyck.P. P. Rubens.F. Snyders.Grundmann.• F. Snyders.School of Van Dyck.Paul Bril.Philip Van Dyck.Martin Vos.Jordans.Wilhelm Schellings.Flemish School.M. Van Platten.•·Paul Potter.M. Mireveldt.Jan Both.238 NAPLES.78. Portrait of Painter Stiwens .85. A Magistrate89. Centaur carrying off Dejanira96. Game .•Ferdinand Bol.C. T. Van Cecilen.• S. Wabassen.F. Snyders.UNIVERSITY AND COLLEGES, ETC.Since the year 1780, the University has been lodged inthe Convent of Il Gesù Vecchio ( Marco di Pino) . The President is also ex officio head of the Board of Public Instruction;Rector, General Secretary, 46 professors, and several thousandstudents. Collections of Natural History, Mineralogy, etc. , inhalls recently built. Unique collection of minerals from Vesuvius. In the great court are statues of Giordano Bruno, S.Thomas Aquinas, and other eminent Neapolitans. Busts ofless known local celebrities in upper corridor.College of Music, founded in 1637. Lodged since1826 in monastery of S. Pietro à Maiella. 100 pupils onfoundation for free instruction; others taught for 9 ducats amonth. Bellini was instructed here. Zingarelli and Mercadantehave been directors . Valuable library of musical works, autograph compositions of Cimarosa, Paesiello, Bellini, Pergolese,and other Neapolitan masters. Small theatre for rehearsals.The Chinese College. Founded 1732 by Father Ripa,for education of young Chinese as missionaries. Now devotedto instruction in oriental languages. In refectory, portraitsof Father Ripa, and successive directors, and various Chinese students. Small museum of Chinese curiosities.Medico-Chirurgical College in Monastery of SanGaudioso. 120 pupils. Lectures, pathological museum,etc. Subterranean passage to the Hospital for Incurables.Royal Society, with three branches, Science, Archæology,and Fine Arts. Transactions published.Accademia Pontaniana. A literary and scientificinstitution , holding its sittings at Convent of S. DomenicoMaggiore.LIBRARIES.We have described the National Library in our account of the Museum (p. 228) .Biblioteca Brancacciana, attached to S. Angelo a Nilo.Oldest library in Naples. Founded 1675 by Card . F. M.Brancaccio. About 70,000 printed books, and 7000 MSS.The former rich in works on jurisprudence; the latter mostly historical.LIBRARIES-PALACES . 239Biblioteca dell' Universita. Chiefly founded fromlibraries of suppressed convents. Most frequented library inItaly. About 140,000 books. Rich in 15th century books, etc.Biblioteca dei Gerolomini, formerly library of theOratory of S. Filippo Neri, 18,000 books, 60 MSS. Amongthe latter a Seneca ( 14th century) , illuminations attributedto Lo Zingaro.Biblioteca del Municipio, chiefly founded from Bourbon private library. Easy of access. The only library open inthe evenings.Some private libraries can be used. Amongst others, theFilioli; the Fasco (with valuable numismatic collection);Policastro, with complete collection of books printed inNaples; the Santo Pio, rich in princeps editions of theClassics; early Italian poets (e.g., a Dante, 1378; and aPetrarch, Venice, on parchment, 1470), also in early Bibles and Aldines.The National Archives .convent of SS. Severino e Sosio.torical and Diplomatic.cial. 4. Municipal.In rooms of suppressed In four sections. 1. His2. Financial. 3. JudiThe first or historical section is of most general interest,containing documents from about 700 A.D., to the close of theSpanish regency. Acts of the House of Anjou, about 380,000 documents.PALAZZO REALE.The Royal Palace , or Palazzo Reale, is an immense blockof buildings, upwards of 550 feet in length. The architectureis a combination of the Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian, therebeing separate rows of pillars of each of these orders, oneabove the other, along the façade of the palace.On application to the intendant of the palace, an order maybe obtained which will admit a party of six, not only to theReale, but also to the Favorita, Capodimonte, Quisisana, Astroni ,and Caserta.The first part of the palace to which the traveller is conducted, is the garden-terrace, which has a handsomemarble table in its centre: this terrace commands a fine viewof the harbour and arsenal, etc.ROOM I. From this may be seen the theatre and diningA picture of the Holy Family by Spagnoletto.room .240 NAPLES.ROOM II .-Christ in the TempleJohn the Baptist Carità •Caravaggio.Caracci.· Schidone.ROOM III. This is the throne-room, and is upholsteredin crimson and gold. The bas-reliefs represent the differentprovinces. The broidery was made by the working people at the poorhouse in 1818.ROOM IV. is a gallery, and contains little of interest except a few Sèvres vases.ROOM V. contains a writing-table, the gift of the City ofNaples.There are other chambers, in which see, amongst otherpictures,Leonardo da Vinci parting with " The Last Supper " Podesti.Portrait ·Portrait (of the Netherlands School) .UsurerCardinalHenryVIII.Alessandro ..Van Dyck.Quintin Matsys.Domenichino (?)Holbein.· Titian.The staircase is perhaps the finest portion of the building(constructed 1651 ) , and is about the only part of the originalpalace to be seen, the rest having been destroyed by fire in 1837.The emblematical statues of the rivers Ebro and Tagus atthe foot, remind one of the recent Spanish rule.PALAZZO REALE DI CAPODIMONTEFineis situated on the most beautiful and elevated spot in Naples.Begun by Charles III. , in 1738, it was completed by Ferdinand II . , in 1834. Fine park and gardens (3 miles in circumference) , with charming prospects. Fifty-five spacious rooms.Paintings chiefly modern. Catalogues in each room.collection of armour, including helmet and shield of the Norman Roger; sword given by Louis XIV. to Philip of Anjou,and that given by Ferdinand I. to Scanderbeg. Arms ofAlexander Farnese, Victor Amadeus, etc. Öne room isdecorated with Capodimonte porcelain (now very rare) .PRIVATE PALACES.Of these there are many in Naples, though but few claimattention, either as regards architecture or objects of art. Themost worthy of note are-CASTEL NUOVO. 241Palazzo Fondi containing a gallery of pictures.Martyrdom of • Calabrese.S. Januarius Four LandscapesPortrait of MariniSalvator Rosa.Caravaggio.Madonna AddolorataPalace of Inquisition at MadridFour Portraits (Marini family)Leon. da Vinci.• Velasquez.Vandyke.Palazzo Gravina, finest palace in Naples as a work ofart. Designed by Gabriele d' Agnolo. Marble gateway, andattic over cornice, modern. Now General Post and Telegraph Offices.Palazzo Miranda, built by Barba for duch*ess of Miranda, in 1780. Small picture gallery. ( I franc. )ROOM 1. St. Jerome in Desert .وودوSpagnoletto.2. Marriage of S. Catherine (triptych) Albert Dürer.3. Banquet of the GodsTriumph of Beauty.·4. Joseph and Potiphar's WifeArtist looking at RelicsRubens.• Ibid.Guido.Michael Angelo.Palazzo Santangelo, begun from designs of Massuccio I. ,restored 1466.Sculptures of marble doorway Inland wooden doors }Agnolo Aniello del Fiore.Antiquities transferred to National MuseumCollection, p. 227) . Paintings remain.ROOM 2. Madonna and SS. Andrew and John" 3. Five LandscapesEntombment 4. دودو•Garland- maker at Window .5. Rubens and Vandyke .Portraits of d'Avalos, Marquis ofPescara, and Vittoria ColonnaHoly FamilyAssumption of the VirginCASTEL NUOVO(see Santangelo• Santafede.Salv. Rosa.Vandyke.Albert Dürer.Vandyke.Sebastiano delPiombo.Ghirlandaio (?)Michael Wohlgemuth.was commenced in 1283 by Charles I. Designed by Giovanni da Pisa. Most of present works date from 1546, under DonPedro de Toledo. Charles III. of Bourbon gave it its presentform. Two round towers, capable of threatening the city,pulled down in 1862.16238NAPLES.78. Portrait of Painter Stiwens .85. A Magistrate ·89. Centaur carrying off Dejanira96. Game .Ferdinand Bol.C. T. Van Cecilen.• S. Wabassen.. F. Snyders.UNIVERSITY AND COLLEGES, ETC.Since the year 1780, the University has been lodged inthe Convent of Il Gesù Vecchio (Marco di Pino) . The President is also ex officio head of the Board of Public Instruction;Rector, General Secretary, 46 professors, and several thousandstudents. Collections of Natural History, Mineralogy, etc. , inhalls recently built. Unique collection of minerals from Vesuvius. In the great court are statues of Giordano Bruno, S.Thomas Aquinas, and other eminent Neapolitans. Busts ofless known local celebrities in upper corridor.College of Music, founded in 1637. Lodged since1826 in monastery of S. Pietro à Maiella . 100 pupils onfoundation for free instruction; others taught for 9 ducats amonth. Bellini was instructed here. Zingarelli and Mercadantehave been directors . Valuable library of musical works, autograph compositions of Cimarosa, Paesiello, Bellini, Pergolese,and other Neapolitan masters. Small theatre for rehearsals .The Chinese College. Founded 1732 by Father Ripa,for education of young Chinese as missionaries. Now devotedto instruction in oriental languages. In refectory, portraitsof Father Ripa, and successive directors, and various Chinesestudents. Small museum of Chinese curiosities.Medico-Chirurgical College in Monastery of SanGaudioso. 120 pupils. Lectures, pathological museum ,Subterranean passage to the Hospital for Incurables. etc.Royal Society, with three branches, Science, Archæology,and Fine Arts. Transactions published.Accademia Pontaniana. A literary and scientificinstitution, holding its sittings at Convent of S. DomenicoMaggiore.LIBRARIES.We have described the National Library in our accountof the Museum (p. 228) .Biblioteca Brancacciana, attached to S. Angelo a Nilo.Oldest library in Naples. Founded 1675 by Card . F. M.Brancaccio. About 70,000 printed books, and 7000 MSS.The former rich in works on jurisprudence; the latter mostlyhistorical.LIBRARIES- FALACES.239243Biblioteca dell'Universita. Chieflyfounded fromlibraries of suppressed convents. Most frequentedItaly. About 140,000 books. Rich in 15th centuryBiblioteca dei Gerolomini,formerly list .Oratory of S. Filippo Neri, 15.000 books, 60 MSSthe latter aSeneca (14th century ) ,MomicatioSto Lo Zingaro.zurayinDOES,etc.oftheAmongby20-delo.Pea inbutedBiblioteca del Municipio, chiefy focoded omBoarT'heocitbon private library. Easy of access. The only the evenings.Some private libraries can be used.ABORFilioli; the Fasco (with valuable mismatPolicastro, with complete colection of bor Naples; the Santo Pio, rich in privzeClassics; early Italian poets (eg, a incePetrarch, Venice, on parchment, 1470), also in eAldines.The National Archives.convent of SS. Severino e Sosis.torical and Diplomatic.cial. 4. Municipal.In four2. F.zadeThe first or historical section is é norcontaining documents from about 750 1.11Spanish regency. Acts of the House of An documents.theWofntirembyng tenby Ourely PALAZZO FELLE ere.The Royal Palace,an eis acombination of the of buildings, upwards of profeпbeing separate rows of pillarsabove the other, along the raceOn application to the mendabe obtained which will santa 22Reale, but also totheFarra zand Caserta.The first part of the vaducted, is the gurie emoz marble table in its centeof the harbour of vaRoom IFromroom. Apictured Eurinap- vall astes by `omandundtwo242 NAPLES.Triumphal Arch (with bronze gates valued at severalmillions of francs) , built to celebrate entry of Alphonso I.(1443).Bas-reliefsStatues of Saints, etc.Merliano, Fiorentino, etc.Giov. da Nola.The Armoury, once the Hall of Reception of Kings of Naples.Picture of S. Francesca di Paola Spagnoletto.In the inner court is situate the Church of S. Barbara.Principal entrance Adoration of the MagiStatue of Virgin and Child Ciborium, with reliefsGiuliano da Majano.7. van Eyck.. Giul. da Majano.Ibid.Winding Stairs ( 158 steps) to summit of the Cam- panile, attributed to Giov. da Pisa.The Dockyard and Arsenal adjoin the Castel Nuovo.CASTEL SANT' ELMO.Founded 1329, by Robert the Wise. Architect, Giacomo deSanctis. What is now seen, probably the work of Don Pedro.View from the Ramparts very fine. Now a military prison.Beneath is an enormous cistern, as wide as the Castle.CASTEL DELL' OVO.So named from its shape. Founded 1154, by William I.The frescoes of Giotto have entirely disappeared. Here thewitty painter held frequent conference with his patron, Robertthe Wise. Noted by Froissart as a place of remarkable strength .Destroyed 1495, by Ferdinand II.; restored 1534, by Don Pedro.Now a barrack and military prison.CASTEL CAPUANOwas the palace of the Suabian and Angevine monarchs. HereCovella Ruffo, duch*ess of Sessa, came from the ball- room totrample on the bleeding corpse of her victim, S. Caracciolo,favourite of Joanna II . In 1540 the law courts were established here by Don Pedro. Beneath the Criminal Court arethe notorious Bourbon " prisons, " now much improved.CASTEL DEL CARMINE,Now barracks, etc. Founded by Ferdinand I., 1484; enlargedby Don Pedro. Stronghold of the people under Masaniello in1647. The prison of distinguished patriots under QueenCaroline and Cardinal Ruffo, in 1796.BRIDGES PORTS-GATES. 243BRIDGES.Ponte della Maddalena, over the Sebeto.Charles III. , in place of more ancient one.Built byPonte di Chiaja, a viaduct, connecting hills of Pizzofalcone and Sant' Elmo. Built 1634; rebuilt 1838.Ponte della Sanita, a viaduct, being part of road madein 1809 by the French, from the Toledo to Capodimonte.Ponte dell' Immacolatella, near the Molo Piccolo.Erected by Charles III .; rebuilt 1843.PORTS,Porto Piccolo, last remnant of ancient Palapolis. Now half buried in sand, and used for small boats only. Traces ofan ancient lighthouse exist, whence name of adjacentstreet, Lanterna Vecchia. Close by, on the Molo Piccolo, arethe Immacolatella , the Sanita Offices , and Custom House.Porto Militare ( 1826) , 5 fathoms deep, is enclosed bythe old Molo ( N.) and a strong breakwater (S.) , extending1100 feet into the sea. Vessels of the Italian navy may oftenbe inspected here.Porto Grande, N. of the Molo. Constructed 1302 , byCharles II. of Anjou at the same time as the Molo. Harbourenlarged 1740. This port presents a very interesting and lively scene . Boats for excursions on the bay can be had here.Previous understanding must be come to and enforced.GATES.The medieval fortifications of Naples have mostly disappeared, except the three castles, and some remains of the walland ditch, and a few gates, modernized.Porta Capuana, an old road to Capua. Erected byFerdinand I .; but the modern ornamented gate dates from1535, entry of Charles V. Two ancient towers, L'Onore and La Virtú.Porta Nolana opens on the Corso Garibaldi . Tworoundtowers, Santa Fe and Speranza. Bas-relief of Ferdinand I.Porta del Carmine. Of this structure only the twomassive round towers remain.Porta Medina, built by Fansaga, 1640 .Porta Alba and Porta di San Gennaro.244 NAPLES.STREETS AND PUBLIC PLACES.Villa Nazionale (formerly Villa Reale) , favourite promenade. Shrubberies, winding paths, grottoes, fountains, statues.Some cafés near the point where the military bands play.Riviera di Chiaja , fashionable drive, separated from the gardens by a riding path.The new Quay Partenope, the Rotten Row of Naples.Quay of St. Lucia. Fish market. Fountain, withstatues and bas- reliefs. Dom. d'Auria and Giov. da Nola.Mineral spring. Osteria, etc. The quay is remarkable forcurious scenes of Neapolitan life and manners.The Toledo, now Strada di Roma, described on aprevious page (see p. 187) .The Marinella, a long beach, from the port to themouth of the Sebeto, once the head quarters of the Lazzaroni,a race now almost extinct .The Molo, favourite promenade of seafaring people.Built 1302, by Charles II. Here Padre Rocco, the Dominican,delivered his remarkable addresses, and excited crowds toenthusiasm .The Corso Vittorio Emanuele surrounds the townon the heights. Beautiful views.Largo del Castello, now Piazza del Municipio.Largest square in Naples. Gardens, etc. Busy centre oftraffic.Largo Medina contains the Fontana Medina, the finestfountain in Naples, designed by Dom. d' Auria and Fansaga.Largo di S. Domenico. Obelisk and statue, Fansaga.Largo del Mercato (see p. 188) .Piazza del Plebiscito, before the royal palace, with colossal bronze statues, etc.THEATRES.Teatro di San Carlo. This theatre was built by AngeloCarasale. It is one of the finest theatres in the world. Alongthe front is an arcade, beneath which a number of public writerssit, who gain a livelihood by committing to paper the thoughtsof others. The theatre was damaged by fire in 1816, but was soon restored. This house has been the scene of the firstproductions of many of the finest operatic compositions of the century. Indeed, Naples may boast of being the mother of modern opera. She has numbered among her later namesthose of Donizetti, Bellini, Rossini, and Mercadante.THEATRES, ETC. 245Teatro Bellini , close to the Museum; new and elegant.Opera.Teatro del Fondo (or Mercadante), 1778, undersame management as San Carlo. Opera, ballets, and French dramas.Teatro di Fiorentini . Italian farces and dramas.Very popular. Oldest theatre in Naples.Teatro Nuovo, 1724. Italian and Neapolitan burlesque.Teatro della Fenice. Opera bouffé and melodrama;twice daily.Teatro Partenope. Broad comedy and farces in localdialect; twice daily .Teatro di San Carlino. Twice daily . The headquarters of Pulcinella (anglicé, Punch). These performances are said to be derived from the ancient Oscan comedies of Atella.Teatro Sannazaro, Via Chiaja. Drama.THE BOTANIC GARDEN.This garden, situated in the fine Strada Foria, was commenced in 1809, completed 1818; laid out by the late ProfessorTenore. The greenhouse and water-supply arrangements arenot first-class; but the out- door collection of trees is extensiveand interesting. A botanical library and lecture- room, withinstruments for microscopic observation, and autographs of celebrated botanists. The four herb gardens are worthy ofnotice.THE OBSERVATORY,on the Capodimonte, 500 feet above sea- level, the horizon lineonly broken by the Castle of St. Elmo. A graceful edifice,with vestibule of marble columns. Here the celebrated Piazzi discovered Ceres in 1801.THE ZOOLOGICAL STATIONis the striking building in the centre of Villa Nazionale. Itis intended especially for the study of the marine animalsabounding in the Bay of Naples. The lower part is anAquarium, second to none for the multitude and variety ofanimals in its tanks, exemplifying the abundant fauna of theMediterranean . In the upper stories are the laboratories,246 NAPLES.library, and apartments of the resident naturalists. The laboratories contain twenty tables, mostly taken by different govern- ments for students of their nationalities.FETES AND FESTIVALS.The Neapolitan, like the ancient Greek festivals, display amarvellous intermixture of religion and pleasure, and arethoroughly characteristic of the national life and manners.Festa di Piedigrotta . Once the chief festival of Naples,on the 8th of September. The royal family used to go in procession to the church of the Vergine di Piedigrotta, at Posilippo.All the available troops were drawn out to aid the display, andfor the remainder of the day the most boisterous and unrestrained merriment prevailed among the thousands of peasantryin gay local costumes, gathered from all parts of the adjacentprovinces. The day, although shorn of its former glories, isstill observed in a limited degree, with music, singing, and the celebrated tarantella dance.The festival of the Madonna di Monte Verginetakes place on Whit Sunday and two following days. Invehicles of every kind the Neapolitans flock to the scene of thefête at a church near Avellino. Here also gather motleycrowds from all parts of the kingdom, affording a wonderfulstudy of local costumes, character, and dialects. The return toNaples is a Greek Bacchanalian procession with modern accessories. The vehicles are decorated with boughs of trees; anddrawn by animals of all kinds (horse, bullock, and ass yokedtogether) adorned with ribbons and coloured feathers; andcrowds of excited men and women, their heads wreathed withflowers and fruit, and in their hands decorated wands andpictures of the Virgin, dance round the motley procession.Most of the Neapolitan pilgrims return by way of Nola, andspend Whit Monday at the Shrine of Madonna dell ' Arco,at the foot of Monte Somma. Hither also come crowds fromNaples who cannot undertake the longer journey to Avellino;and the day is given to dancing and singing, etc. , around theshrine and along the seven miles of the road to Naples.On August 15th the grounds of Capodimonte are thrownopen for a popular fete.Throughout Italy on the first Sunday in June the Festivalof the Constitution takes place. Parades of the militaryand the national guards, etc., mass in front of S. Francesco,accompanied by salutes from the ships of war and harbourbatteries; concerts at various places, where the Garibaldi HymnCHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 247forms a conspicuous feature, and elicits enthusiastic applause;fireworks at the Villa Nazionale, etc., form the regular programme.Christmas brings to Naples the bagpipers of the Abruzzi(Zampognari), who play before the images of the Virgin. Thechurches exhibit tableaux of the Nativity (presepi), some of themmoving by machinery. At Easter there are representationsof the Holy Sepulchre. On Easter Sunday, the populacemake holiday at Antignano in the morning, and at Poggio Realein the evening. On Ascension Day fêtes are kept up atScafati and Carditello. On the day of Corpus Christithere are special services at Santa Chiara and parade of troops.The Festa di S. Antonio Abate (January 17 ) is celebrated by the blessing of domestic animals (gaily decorated) at the church of the saint. The Festivals of S. Gennaro,in May, September, and December, have been described in ournotice of the Cathedral (p. 194).The Tombola, or lottery, attracts large crowds to witnessthe drawing.CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS.There are about sixty hospitals and other charitable institutions in Naples, with good endowments. The following are the principal:-The Santa Casa degl' Incurabili, founded 1521 , byFrancesca Maria Longo, sometimes contains as many as 2000patients of both sexes, arranged in various wards according to their diseases.Ospedale de Jesu Maria, the chief Clinical School ofNaples. Medical men should make a point of visiting this admirable institution.Ospedale dei Pelligrini , in the Strada Porta Medina,with a convalescent branch at Torre del Greco. Distinguished for its good management and order.Ospedale della Pace, speciality for acute medical cases.Well directed by the brothers of S. Giovanni di Dio.Ospedale di S. Eligio, for females, with a Conservatorio of nursing sisters.Ospedale della Pazienza Cesaræa, for infirmfemales. Founded 1600 by Annibale Cesareo.Ospedale de' Ciechi, in the Chiaja. Founded byFerdinand I. , 1818. Two hundred blind persons taught.248 NAPLES.A celebrated Neapolitan institution is the Albergo dei Poveri, or Reclusorio, in the Strada Foria, commencedfrom designs of Fuga in 1751. It was founded, like all othergood institutions in Naples, Sicily, and Spain, by Charles III.He intended it to contain 15,000 poor persons! About a thirdof his plan has been completed; but its colossal grandeur showswhat a most enlightened sovereign thought of his Neapolitansubjects. This institution is said to have given rise to the infant schools in England .CEMETERIES.Campo Santo Vecchio. -Old cemetery. Now usedonly for the very poor, and for hospital cases. There are 366deep pits. One is cleared out every evening, and the dead thathave been brought during the day are placed in it, under the direction of the resident priest.Campo Santo Nuovo. -Begun by the French; remodelled in 1837. Is a handsome garden, with many finemonuments tastefully placed. There is a Church, Doric, witha Pietà in the Tribune by Gennaro Cali. More than a hundredproprietary chapels open into a square, surrounded by a Doricportico. In the centre is a colossal statue, emblematic ofReligion, by Angelini. C. Poerio, the jurist Nicolini, and othernoted Neapolitans, are buried in the south-west portion reserved for that class. The views from the cemetery are magnificent;tracks of the lava currents of 1850 and 1855 being conspicuousin the landscape. At the adjacent Capuchin Convent, the basreliefs on the altar of the oratory are by Giovanni da Nola.Protestant Cemetery.-Near the Porta Capuana.THE ENVIRONS OF NAPLESare exceedingly beautiful. Some places of interest will be seenby a visit to Bagnoli.After leaving the Chiaja by the Strada di Piedigrotta, andpassing the Church of S. Maria (see p. 246) , the Tomb ofVirgil is reached. It is situated on a rocky hill- side, and isapproached by stone steps. Fee franc to the custodian livingclose by, who conducts to the spot where stands the ruinedtomb of the poet, overshadowed by trees. The tomb is a smallsquare building, with a domed roof, differing little from the ancient edifices of the same kind that abound in the neighbourhood. The old entrance has been enlarged, and there is aENVIRONS OF NAPLES. 249modern window cut through the hall, which admits of a curiousview of the chasm that forms the approach to the tunnel, or, asit is called in the country, the Grotto of Posilipo. Internally,this tomb is a vaulted cell, about fifteen feet square, havingmany columbaria, or small recesses in the side- walls made toreceive urns. No urns, however, nor vestiges of them, nosarcophagus, nor any inscription (really ancient), remain here;nor is the story told of the removal in the sixteenth centuryof the very urn that contained the great poet's ashes authenticated . According to one account, the urn, standing in themiddle of the sepulchre, supported by nine small marble pillars,with an inscription on the frieze, was here as late as 1526, andfrequently visited by the lovers of letters; but it is said that, inthe course of the wars and invasions of the kingdom thatensued, the Neapolitan Government, fearing such preciousrelics should be carried off or destroyed, caused them to beremoved from the tomb to the fortress called Castel Nuovo,where they were lost. Another statement is , that, at the earnest suit of the Cardinal of Mantua, who was anxious to enrichwith the poet's remains his native city, the Government gavethe urn, the pillars, and some small statues that had stood inthe tomb, to the Mantuans; and that the Cardinal, on his wayhome with them, fell sick, and died at Genoa, in which town thetreasures were scattered and lost. Another account is, that themonks of the neighbouring Convent of Mercellina removed theurn and its accessories from the tomb, and that they, and notthe Government, made a present of them to the Cardinal ofMantua, on whose sudden death at Genoa they were lost. Theepitaph reported to be inscribed on the urn is the well- known distich-" Mantua me genuit, Calabri rapuere, tenet nuncParthenope: cecini pascua, rura, duces. "But not a vestige of this remains. On a marble slab placed onthe side of the rock opposite the entrance of the tomb is aninscription rudely cut in coarse marble; but the words are verydifferent, and much more barbarous, being-" Qui Cineres? Tumuli haec Vestigia Conditur olim.Ille hic qui cecinit pascua, rura, duces.Can. Reg. M.D.LIII. "After leaving the Tomb, we enter the long gas-lit tunnel(750 yards) called the Grotto di Posilipo, thought in theMiddle Ages to have been formed by the magic arts of the poet250 NAPLES.Virgil. Issuing from the tunnel, the village of Fuorigrottais reached . Church of S. Vitale, with monument to GiacomoLeopardi, poet, etc. Road to Bagnoli through the vines and mulberry-trees. Steam tram . At Bagnoli are celebratedmineral springs.The return from Bagnoli may be effected by another route,by keeping nearer to the sea-coast. Notice Island of Nisida,scene of retirement of Brutus, after death of Cæsar; ruins ofVilla of Vedius Pollio ( whence the name of the promontory, the Posilipo) , and various other ruins; the lofty Grottodi Sejano ( 1 fr. ) By the Strada di Posilipo and Mergellinaback to Naples.The Lago d'Agnano (now drained) , the Grotto delCane (noted for the poisonous gases at the lower part of thecave, proved by experiments with torches, etc. ) , and Astroni ,with its large walled-in volcanic crater, formerly a royal preservefor wild boars and deer, etc. ( tickets obtained at the PalazzoReale, entrance fee 1 fr. to 2 fr . ) , may all be taken in an easy drive from Naples.IOne of the favourite short trips from Naples is to theCamaldoli. Carriage along the Strada dell' Infrascata, andStrada S. Gennaro to Antignano. Here leave the vehicle.Ascent, 1 fr.; donkey, 2 fr. Suppressed monastery, little ofinterest, but view from the Belvidere in the garden magnificent.Height, 1488 feet above sea- level.WESTERN DISTRICT.West of the Gulf of Naples lies a district which fascinatesby its natural beauty, and attracts notice by the abundantevidence of powerful volcanic agencies, whereby wondrous changes have been wrought in the natural features of thescenery. It is also a district whose forests, and lakes, andrivers, and mountains are so intimately associated with ancientreligion and poetry, as of necessity to excite absorbing interestso long as Homer and Virgil continue to be read. And, moreover, this portion of Italy was so frequented by the wealthiersons of Imperial Rome, who built their rural villas amongst its fair scenery, that were we to recount all the names of historicinterest connected with it, we should indeed have to marshalefore our readers a goodly array of poets and philosophers,arriors and heroes, senators and consuls, and emperors.ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. 251POZZUOLI.The road from Naples to Pozzuoli has been described as faras Bagnoli (p. 250) . It then follows the coast- line; and thetourist will note the ancient cliff of volcanic rock, now separated from the sea by a low strip of land, whose recent volcanicformation is evinced by the quantity of marine deposits whichit contains, and by the numerous fragments of mosaics whichare buried in the soil . The wave- mark on the inner cliff isthirty-two feet above the sea- level. The road near Pozzuoli iscut through Monte Olibano, which is composed of lava, deposited by a stream from Solfatara . This stream must havebeen a quarter of a mile broad, and seventy feet thick, when it reached the sea. Pozzuoli was originally a Greek colony, calledat first Puteoli; then , in allusion to its government, Dicæarchia.About 200 B.C. , the Romans restored its ancient name, and madeit the head- quarters of their traffic with the East. Cicero callsit " a little Rome." It was made a Roman colony by Augustus, and was called by Nero Puteoli Augusta, to which titleVespasian added the word Flavia. Here Sylla revelled, andmiserably died . From the statements of Strabo, corroboratedby numerous inscriptions on the monuments, etc., an extensivecommerce with Asia Minor, Syria, and Egypt was maintained.The town possessed mineral springs, which made it a favouriteresort of the Roman patricians. With the loss of its commerce,as the Roman Empire collapsed, this city, once extendingalmost to the Solfatara, itself declined. From the fifth to thesixteenth century, Puteoli was involved in a long period ofdisaster. Alaric, Genseric, Totila, the Dukes of Benevento,the Saracens, the Turks, all in turn ravaged and destroyed.Nature herself seemed to war against the doomed city. Solfatara poured forth lava, and showered ashes; earthquakes shookdown the buildings; part of the city even subsided below thesea level. In the sixteenth century, the terrible eruption whichformed Monte Nuovo, laid waste the whole district; malariabecame a constant summer visitor, most of the inhabitants fledfrom the town, and, in spite of spasmodic efforts of the Viceroy, Don Pedro de Toledo, and his friend, Andrea Doria, andothers since their time, Puteoli, now Pozzuoli, has never recovered. Few indications indeed remain of its ancient prosperity.There is one circ*mstance in the history of Puteoli which must ever render it memorable to the Christian traveller. Itwas here that St. Paul, St. Luke, and Aristarchus, when sent to252 NAPLES.Rome by King Agrippa, completed their perilous sea voyage,and remained a week with St. Paul's countrymen in the Tyrianquarter before passing on to Rome. We will quote one or two passages bearing on this circ*mstance. The first is from 66 Italian Pictures.""Here, eighteen centuries ago, a corn-ship from Alexandria,theCastor and Pollux, ' having narrowly escaped wreck offMalta, cast anchor in the bay. The massive blocks of masonry,now washed over by the sea, are the foundations of the pier atwhich it discharged its cargo, and where stepped ashore aprisoner entrusted with a more important mission than everambassador had borne. It was Paul coming to appear beforeCæsar, and to ' preach the gospel to them that were at Rome also.' "The following extracts are from Conybeare and Howson's " Life of St. Paul " -:" Before the close of the first day, they would see on the leftthe volcanic cone and smoke of Stromboli, the nearest of theLiparian Islands. In the course of the night they would haveneared that projecting part of the mainland which forms thesouthern limit of the Bay of Salerno. Sailing across the wideopening of this gulf, they would, in a few hours, enter thatother bay, the Bay of Naples, in the northern part of whichPuteoli was situated . No long description need be given ofthat bay, which has been made familiar by every kind of illustration, even to those who have never seen it. Its south-easternlimit is the promontory of Minerva, with the Island of Capreæopposite, which is so associated with the memory of Tiberius,that its cliffs still seem to rise from the blue waters as a monument of hideous vice in the midst of the fairest scenes ofnature. The opposite boundary was the promontory ofMisenum, where one of the imperial fleets lay at anchor, under the shelter of the Islands of Ischia and Procida. In the intermediate space, the Campanian coast curves round in the loveliest forms, with Vesuvius as the prominent feature of the view.But here one difference must be marked between St. Paul's day and our own. The angry neighbour of Naples was not thenan unsleeping volcano, but a green and sunny back-ground tothe bay, with its westward slope covered with vines. No onecould have suspected that the time was so near when the ad- miral of the fleet at Misenum would be lost in its fiery eruption; and little did the Apostle dream, when he looked fromthe vessel's deck across the bay to the right, that a ruin, likeENVIRONS OF NAPLES. 25366that of Sodom and Gomorrah, hung over the fair cities at thebase of the mountain; and that the Jewish princess, who hadso lately conversed with him in his prison at Cæsarea, wouldfind her tomb in that ruin , with the child she had borne to Felix.By this time the vessel was well within the Island ofCapreæ, and the promontory of Minerva; and the idlers ofPuteoli were already crowding to the pier, to watch the arrivalof the Alexandrian corn-ship . So we may safely infer from avivid and descriptive letter preserved among the correspondenceof the philosopher Seneca. He says that all ships, on roundinginto the bay within the above-mentioned island and promontory, were obliged to strike their topsail, with the exception of the Alexandrian corn-vessels, which were thus easily recognizedas soon as they hove in sight. And then he proceeds to moralize on the gathering and crowding of the people of Puteoli, towatch these vessels coming in. Thus we are furnished with new circ*mstances to aid our efforts to realize the arrival of theCastor and Pollux ' on the coast of Italy, with St. Paul on board. "

• * * * *

"Puteoli, from its trade with Alexandria and the East, mustnecessarily have contained a colony of Jews, and they musthave had a close connection with the Jews of Rome. Whatwas true of the Jews would probably find its parallel in theChristians. St. Paul met with disciples here; and, as soon as hewas among them, they were in prompt communication on thesubject with their brethren in Rome. The Italian Christianshad long been looking for a visit from the famous apostle,though they had not expected to see him arrive thus, a prisonerin chains, hardly saved from shipwreck. But these sufferingswould only draw their hearts more closely towards him, Theyearnestly besought him to stay some days with them, and Juliuswas able to allow this request to be complied with. "The Cathedral ( S. Proculo) has in one of its walls sixCorinthian columns, formerly part of a Roman temple erected here by L. Calpurnius, and dedicated to Augustus. Relics ofS. Proculus are shown here. Monuments to Duc de Montpensier and Giovanni Battista Pergolesi, composer of the original" Stabat Mater. "In the Piazza Maggiore is a statue, discovered in 1704,of a senator, Q. Flav. Mavortius. The head is a more recentaddition, though antique, the original head of the statue not254 NAPLES.having been found. Another statue in the piazza is of Philipthe Third's Viceroy, Bishop de Leon y Cardeñas.The Temple of Jupiter Serapis, or the Serapeon,is reached by a narrow road at the west end of the town. Theseextensive ruins were lost sight of early in the sixteenth century,and remained entombed until they were disinterred by CharlesII. in 1750. The edifice consisted of a circular temple, oncesurrounded by a peristyle of sixteen Corinthian pillars of African marble. The pillars have been removed to the Theatre ofthe Palace at Caserta, and only the bases remain. Betweenthese pedestals are small fluted vases once used in the sacrificialrites. The temple is surrounded by a quadrilateral court 140feet by 122, to which a vestibule, supported by six pilasters onthe side nearest the sea, forms the main entrance. Forty- eightcolumns, partly of marble and partly of granite, once formed aportico round the interior of the court. Under this porticowere chambers, sixteen of which could be entered only from thecourt, and sixteen only from the exterior. There are remainsof stairs, showing that there was an upper storey. The two corner chambers on the north-east side are of double dimensions, with marble seats and water channels. Between thesetwo chambers the wall of the court forms a şemi- circular niche.In front was once a pronaos of six Corinthian columns and twopilasters supporting a richly decorated frieze, the loftiest portion of the edifice. Three of the columns still stand , each cutfrom a single block 40 feet in height; three others lie in frag- ments around. Six feet below the marble pavement of thecourt, a more ancient mosaic pavement has been discovered.The arrangements of the whole building, in all essential particulars, are similar to those of the Iseon at Pompeii and theSerapeon at Alexandria. There is authentic evidence that theEgyptian divinity Serapis was worshipped here as late as thesecond century.The ruins of the Serapeon are also intensely interestingfrom the evidences they afford of frequent alterations of level.From the operations of lithodomites on the columns, and theposition of the mosaic and more recent marble floor, and othercirc*mstances, Professor Forbes, Mr. Babbage, and Sir CharlesLyell have demonstrated a series of remarkable changes. Historical evidence bears out the philosophical argument. Therebe no doubt that the original mosaic floor, with its waterrses leading to the sea, was above the sea-level, and that alual subsidence necessitated the formation of the marbleENVIRONS OF NAPLES. 255floor six feet higher. The building was probably abandoned atthe conversion of Constantine, and a gradual subsidence continued, as shown by sea marks at various levels. Then came thefall of scoriæ, etc. , from the eruption of Solfatara in the twelfthcentury, filling up the courtyard to the height of twelve feet,and preserving a portion of the columns from marine action.Subsidence, however, continued until the sea reached a heightof nine feet above this volcanic deposit. For three and a halfcenturies no further change took place, and at this level thelithodomic perforations are most numerous, largest, and deepest,and contain shells. The tremendous earthquakes precedingand accompanying the formation of Monte Nuovo in 1538raised the ruins above the sea-level simultaneously with theupheaval of the tract of land west of Pozzuoli . Since 1780subsidence has again set in, and there is now at high tide two feet of water in the courtyard.Three mineral springs, supposed to come from Solfatara, appear near the Serapeon. Acqua dell' Antro is hot, usedinternally for dyspepsia, gout, etc.; externally for rheumatism ,scrofula, and skin affections . The Acqua de Lipposi and AcquaMedia are cold: the former is used in eye affections; the latteris something like seltzer.At the quay may be seen the remains of the Mole ofPozzuoli, now called the Ponte di Caligola, from an erroneousidea of its having been connected with the bridge of boatsinaugurated with such drunkenness, cruelty, and pomp by theinsane tyrant, as described by Suetonius. An inscription overthe city gate records the restoration of the mole by AntoninusPius, in fulfilment of a promise made by Hadrian. Twentyfour arches, with a lighthouse at the extreme end , once formedthis pier. Only sixteen buttresses now remain, three of thesebeing submerged. They are constructed of brick, cementedwith Pozzolana or volcanic earth, and are faced with stone.These buttresses, like the pillars of the Serapeon, furnish evidenceof alternate subsidence and elevation.Of the Temple of Neptune, once a goodly edifice, westof the Serapeon, where Cæsar Augustus sacrificed, B.C. 31,before he sailed to Greece and vanquished Antony and Cleopatraat Actium, nothing remains but a few pillars rising from the sea,In the vicinity, but under water, is the Temple of theNymphs, so named from conjecture, as is the case with many baths, temples, villas, etc. , in this neighbourhood. Severalcolumns, vases, statues, etc., have been found here.256 NAPLES.A few scanty fragments near the sea-shore are all thatremain of the Villa of Cicero, where the great oratorwrote his "Academica " and " De Fato . ' When Hadriandied at Baiæ in A.D. 138, the body was interred in theprecincts of Cicero's Villa till a mausoleum at Rome wasprepared.The road behind the Serapeum, passes remains of variouskinds, and the adjacent hills are covered with ruins of baths and various edifices. Afew we may briefly mention . A mass ofruins, resembling the hall of a bath, is called the Temple ofDiana. Near it, some chambers of massive brickwork, withniches for statues, are styled the Temple of Neptune.The beauty of the site ofthe Villa Cardito is striking; its grounds contain baths and warm springs. The Piscina(erroneously called the Labyrinth) , in the Villa Lusciano,may possibly have held the water for the Naumachia. Thelarge, solid Piscina Grande, whose vaulted roof rests onthirty pilasters, is still used as a reservoir. Hard by are theremains of the Puteoli branch of the Julian Aqueduct.ancient tunnel in the mountain, restored by Don Pedro deToledo, now supplies the town with water. Some ruins knownas the Temple of Antinous, are in the Villa Licastro.They were so named from the discovery of a statue of Antinous,with fragments of marble arches and beautiful columns in1838.AnThe Amphitheatre is the most perfect of the ruins inthis vicinity. Three series of arches, the lowest of large stonework, the others of brick, form the walls. Two minor entrancesat the sides lead to the arena, and to subterranean works of vastextent, including dens for the animals, formed of solid masonry,and various other substructions. The two principal entranceswere at the ends, each approached by three marble covered colonnades. The interior displayed the arena, measuring 336by 138 feet, and surrounded by four ranges of seats, wherethe spectators sat according to their rank. Corinthian columns.of black marble distinguish the seat of the Emperor. On theleft of the principal entrance, a water conduit supplied themeans of flooding the arena, for the representation of naval combats. It was here that Nero, as Dion Cassius relates,astonished his guest, Tiridates, King of Armenia, by steppingdown into the arena, and slaying several wild beasts with hisown imperial hands. Here also St. Januarius and his companions are said to have been thrown to wild beasts before theirVOLCANOES. 257martyrdom. The chambers under the arcade which have beenmade into a chapel under the name of the Carceri di S. Gennaro,commemorate this legend. The visitor must not omit tonotice the magnificent prospect from the upper part of theAmphitheatre.The adjacent Theatre has been but little excavated. Theruins are extensive, but little more than a portico and a few rowsof arches are above ground.There is an extensive ruin on the Via Cumana, but antiquaries differ in opinion as to whether it is Cicero's Villa ,a Circus, or the Ancient Stadium . The weight ofevidence seems in favour of the latter theory.There have been frequent discoveries of ancient tombs onthe old roads-the Via Campana leading to Capua, the ViaPuteolana to Naples, and the Via Cumana to Cuma, by which St. Paul travelled towards Rome. These tombs are of variousforms, some simple columns or towers, some are temples orchambers, with rich interior decorations, others little else than masses of brickwork. Many are family columbaria, fromwhich numerous sarcophagi, cinerary urns, coins, personal ornaments, lamps, etc., have been transferred to the Naples Museum.The Cappuccini is a monastery and church on a hill bythe Via Puteolana, erected in 1580, to commemorate themartyrdom of St. Januarius on this spot, A.D. 305. A stone is shown on which the saint is said to have been beheaded. Atthe moment of the annual liquefaction of the saint's blood atNaples, blood is said to appear on this stone. There are fine views from hence across the Gulf of Pozzuoli..EXTINCT VOLCANOES: SOLFATARA, ETC.The Solfatara is situated a short distance beyond theCappuccini. The admission fee is fr. for one person, less fora party. Hills of pumice- stone surround an oblong space, the crater of a semi- extinct volcano, with fissures from whichsulphurous vapours and gases constantly rise. The only recorded overflow of lava was in 1198, when the stream was poured forth which formed Monte Eibono. Above Solfatara to theE., rise the Colles Leucogaci, white hills, the stone fromwhich was pulverized by the ancients and used for colouring various substances. Here, at the foot of Monte Sicco, are thesources of several aluminous brooks, much in repute for the cure of cutaneous diseases. These streams, now known as I. Pisciarelli , and called by Pliny the Fontes Leucogaci, all fall into the17258 NAPLES.ravine with a noise as if the hollow caverns of the mountainwere full of boiling water.Two small craters, M. Cigliano and M. Campana, lie N.W.of Solfatara, and beyond these rises Monte Barbaro, theloftiest of the volcanic mountains in the district. The floor ofthe crater, which is 3 miles in circumference, is a plain ofextraordinary fertility. The outer slopes of the cone are coveredwith vineyards. The first Roman victory over the Samnites,B.C. 340, took place at the foot of this mountain.Starting from the W. end of Pozzuoli, and proceeding alongthe shore, the traveller will see the ancient seacliff, now inland,enclosing a tract of land called La Starsa, 12 to 20 feet abovethe sea-level, which affords abundant opportunity for studyingthe submarine deposits of comparatively recent times.From Pozzuoli , a journey of 1 miles brings us to MonteNuovo, an obtuse cone, 440 feet in height, with walls ofpumice-stone, trachyte, and tufa enclosing a crater 419 feet indepth. During two years frequent earthquakes preceded theupheaval of this mountain in September, 1538. In that monththe shocks became more frequent, till on the 28th, twentyshocks were felt in the twenty-four hours, elevating the coastfrom Misenum to Coroglio, to such an extent, that the searetired 200 paces from its ancient boundary. Of the quantitiesof dead fish, etc. , left on the strip of land thus formed, thesubsidence of the volcanic rocks, leaving a gulf filled with hotwater-the dense volumes of steam, which combining withashes fell in showers of black mud as far as Naples-the projection of stones larger than an ox," to the height of a mileand a half, and the fall of ashes over the surrounding countryeven as far as parts of Calabria, 150 miles distant; —of all these,and similar startling phenomena, the details may be found incontemporary accounts. The upheaval left behind it the mountain we are describing, 1 miles in circumference, completelycovering the ancient village of Tripergola, a villa of the Anjoukings, the baths and hospital erected by Charles II. , the ruinsof Agrippina's Villa, more than half the Lucrine Lake, and thecanal connecting it with Avernus.66Following the road that leads southwards from MonteNuovo we reach Lake Lucrinus, separated from the sea by a narrow strip of land; this lake was once celebrated for itsoysters, it is now little better than a marshy swamp; beneath the surface of the water may be seen a portion of the submergedbank once called the Via Herculea, from a tradition that it wasLAKE AVERNUS. 259constructed by Hercules when he drove away the bulls ofGeryon. This causeway was strengthened by Julius Cæsar,and repaired by Agrippa when he formed the Portus Julius.Considerable remains of the quays of this harbour still exist.The oysters, spoken of by Cicero, and the mussels, in whichHorace delighted, are no longer found here; but a profitablefishery of grey mullet and spigola flourishes instead.A rough road conducts from L. Lucrinus to L. Avernus.This lake is the central portion of an extinct volcano, about amile and a half in circumference and 250 feet deep, surroundedon three sides by hills richly covered with the chestnut and thevine. Up to about the time of Augustus noxious volcanicgases seem to have risen through the lake, and these vapourswere so confined by the dense surrounding forests that it wassaid no bird could fly across it; there are, at the present time,plenty of water- fowl and fish. The Cimerii (see " Odyssey,'Book xi. ) were said to dwell in the gloomy ravines and sunlesscaverns surrounding this lake; and here were the oracles ofthe infernal regions invoked. By a cavern near this lakeÆneas, led by the Sibyl, passed to the abode of spirits (Æn.vi. 237). Hither, B.C. 214, came Hannibal, avowedly tosacrifice to Pluto; but as Livy asserts, to prepare an attack onPuteoli. But all these legends and superstitions seem to havebeen roughly dispelled by the engineering works of Agrippa,who cut down the forest, connected both Lucrinus and Avernuswith the sea by a canal, and so formed for the Roman fleet aharbour extolled as a prodigy by both Horace and Virgil. Thecanals and wharves of Agrippa existed till destroyed by theupheaval of Monte Nuovo. Subsequent attempts to restore theharbour, etc., have failed.There are numerous cuttings and grottoes on the south ofthe lake. The most important, called the Grotta dellaSibilla, is part of the tunnel formed by Agrippa to connectthe Lake with Baix, Through a brick gateway the travellerenters a long damp passage, with the rockwork occasionallystrengthened with masonry; about midway, a passage on theright leads into a small square chamber styled the "Entranceto the Infernal Regions "; near it is a chamber arranged as abath, and with the floor covered to the depth of a foot withtepid water; this is called the " Bath of the Sibyl." The wholelength of the grotto is 280 feet. Fee for admittance, 1 fr.;torches (which are necessary) , 1 franc. West of L. Avernus isthe Grotto della Pace, accessible only for a short distance, and260 ENVIRONS OF NAPLES.presenting no point of interest; it was doubtless Agrippa's tunnel to Cumæ. E. of the lake are ruins of some magnificentbaths, sometimes called the Temple of Apollo; amidst theseextensive remains rises a mineral spring, the Acqua Capona.The Bagni di Tritoli , mentioned by Pliny, will be foundnear the high road a little beyond the Lucrine Lake; only part of the present edifice is ancient. At a short distance, a path onthe mountain slope leads to a long, dark, rocky passage, at the end of which are the Stufe di Nerone. These are warmsprings (the ancient Therme Neroniana) , temperature 182°Fahrenheit; access to the springs is fr. , for cooking eggs,I fr. is charged; rheumatic patients and other invalids find thesteam from these springs beneficial.BAIÆ.Small Inn (Regina) . A guide can be hired, 1 to 2 fr. for the afternoon.66 The lovely Bay of Baiæ, with which Horace declarednothing in the world " could be compared, still charms byits natural beauty. The approach from the side of the LucrineLake is especially lovely. But the splendour of the Romanwatering-place is departed; the palatial villas which once coveredthe surrounding hills are no more. In their place we haveinnumerable fragments of masonry, and brickwork, and mosaicpavement; ruins of every kind half-hidden in underwood, butall helping to prove the luxury and magnificence so often.alluded to by Latin writers. Baiæ is said to have derived itsname from Baius, pilot of Ulysses. Of its early history little isknown; but in the reign of Tiberius it had become pre- eminentamongst Italian cities for fashion and immorality. Althoughmany of the ruins are named, not one can be really identified .Pompey, Cæsar, Domitian, Crassus, Cato, and a crowd ofillustrious Romans, all had villas here. In Piso's villa Senecaand Lucien plotted against Nero. At Baiæ Hadrian wrote the"Animula, vagula, blandula, " and here he died. Baia declinedas the Roman Emperors fell; the Saracens ravaged it in the8th century, and in the 16th it was deserted .The large ruins known as the Temple of Mercury(called by the peasants, il troglio, the trough) , the Temple ofVenus, and the Temple of Diana, are evidently baths.The Temple of Venus is a public thoroughfare; at the other two from 30 to 50 cents. fee is charged.A boat excursion to the Cento Camarelle, Piscina MirabilisBAIÆ, 261and Misenum can be conveniently undertaken from the harbourof Baiæ (3 to 4 fr. )The road now skirts the bay and rises slightly.left Castle or Fort of Baiæ, built by Don Pedro.On theThe following remains of Roman structures will interest thearchæologist.Bacoli, one mile from the fort (anc. Bauli, but sitenearer shore) . Tomb of Agrippina, really a small theatre;stuccoes, reliefs, etc., damaged by the torches of the guides.Villa of Hortensius, partly under water; here were theponds of murana, celebrated by Cicero, Pliny, etc.; in this villaNero planned the murder of his mother Agrippina, which was effected at her residence by the Lucrine Lake. The structurecalled the Cento Camarelle, Carceri di Nerone, orLabyrinth, is of doubtful origin, but supposed to haveformed part of the Villa of Julius Cæsar, where Octaviamourned the death of the hopeful young prince, Marcellus,immortalized by Virgil. The Cento Camarelle consists of anumber of vaulted chambers separated by pilasters, apparently reservoirs for water.Between Bacoli and the Mare Morto is seen on the left thePiscino Mirabilis (fee fr. ) . This excavated reservoir,220 feet long by 83 feet broad, formed the end of the JulianAqueduct, and supplied water for the Roman fleet when offMisenum . Forty-eight massive columns support a vaultedroof. The whole is in admirable preservation. Forty steps lead tothe bottom of the reservoir, where an arrangement for collecting the sediment from the water is visible. Vases and otherantiquities from the neighbourhood can be purchased from adealer on the right of the approach from Bacoli to the Piscino.The Punta di Pennata, perforated with two tunnels byAgrippa, to hinder accumulation of sand, forms the N.boundary of the harbour of Misenum. The remains of thepiers of a mole are seen under the water. Some ruins on thePunta are supposed to mark the site of the Villa of Cornelia, mother of the Gracchi.MISENUM.From the reign of Augustus to that of Titus, the Harbourof Misenum, constructed from Agrippa's plans, was the station of the Mediterranean fleet. It had three basins; themarsh known as the Mare Morto was the inner one.causeway now separates the Mare Morto from the harborA262 ENVIRONS OF NAPLES.Beyond this causeway rises abruptly the pyramidal CapoMiseno ( 268 feet) , said to have been so named on accountof its being the birth-place of Misanus, trumpeter of Æneas.The ascent (three- quarters of an hour from Bacoli) should be undertaken on account of the fine view from the summit.Observe, in passing, reservoirs for obtaining salt by evaporation. The village of Miseno, or Casaluce, perhaps marks theancient city (never very large) and naval arsenal of Misenum.Ruins of a Theatre still exist on the promontory called IlForno. Of the Villa of Lucullus nothing remains butsome scanty ruins on the heights; the Grotto Dragonara,another Roman relic, is a long subterranean passage, withcolumns supporting a vaulted roof, whether reservoir or magazine is uncertain. Near this point two medieval watch-towersare seen. A lighthouse marks the extreme end ofthe promontory.Westwards from C. Miseno lies a strip of beach, separatingthe Mare Morto from the sea, once the Militis Schola, orparade-ground of the Roman soldiers. Modern name, Miliscola. From this beach boats cross the Canale di Procida toProcida or Ischia ( 1 to 2 fr . ) . West from this beach rises thevolcanic rock known as Monte di Procida , covered withvineyards yielding excellent wine; numerous fragments ofRoman villas remain . The S. W. point of this promontory isthe Punta di Fumo. Off the W. point lies the rock S. Martino.It is still,North of the Mare Morto, and stretching to the Lago delFusaro, lies a well- cultivated plain, which antiquaries considerto be the Campi Elyssii of the sixth book of the Æneid.Amongst the vineyards and gardens are numerous tombs,chiefly of sailors from the fleet at Misenum, as the inscriptionsshow. The ancient road across these fields to Cumæ leads bythe Lago del Fusaro. This was the Acherusian Lake of the poets. It was probably once the port of Cumæ. A Romancanal, the Foce del Fusaro, connects it with the sea.as of old, famous for its oysters. Numerous remains of villas,tombs, etc., are in the neighbourhood. In the centre of thelake is a pavilion, built by Ferdinand I. The lake is supposedto be an extinct crater. Only forty years ago the oysterswere destroyed by mephitic gases. On the north side, on aprojecting piece of land called the Torre di Gavita, are theremains of the villa of Servilius Vatia, who retired to this placewhen Nero's cruelty and folly made life at Rome unbearable.Some ruined arches on the hills between Fusaro and Avernusare supposed to mark the site of Cicero's Villa Cumana.CUMA. 263CUMÆ.A mile and a half by the Via Domitiana from the Lago di Fusaro, brings the traveller to Cumæ. The direct road fromNaples and Pozzuoli ( the Via Cumana) , passes north of L.Avernus, and by the Arco Felice.Cuma stands on an isolated hill, forming one of the ranges of " sea- girt cliffs " spoken of by Pindar. lt was the mostancient Greek colony in Italy. Hence the Romans obtainedthe Sybilline Books long preserved in the Capitol. After becoming absorbed in the Roman dominions, Cumæ long remained an important city, till, under the emperors, it declined.It was restored by the Goths, burnt by the Saracens in theninth century, and completely destroyed by the inhabitants of Naples, as being a mere harbour for pirates and robbers. Thehuge walls of the lofty Acropolis afford an extensive pros- pect of the sea as far as Gaeta and Ponza, with L. Fugaro and Ischia on the left. Notice remnants of the ancient fortifications at the S. and W. entrance. Numerous caverns are excavated in all directions in the rock on which the Acropolis stands.One of these should be visited , viz. , that known as the Grottoof the Sibyl, from its supposed identity with that mentionedby Virgil (Æn. vi . 41 ) , which had a hundred entrances, etc. ,whence resounded as many voices, echoing the oracles of theprophets. " Many of the passages are blocked up. We findfrom Justin Martyr the Sibyl was still consulted in A.D. 150.66Several ruins of interest are found in and near Cumæ,among them the following:-Temple of Apollo, conspicuous on highest point of the Acropolis. Only one Doric columnremaining. Temple of the Giants, from which was takenthe colossal Jupiter Stator in the Naples Museum. Temple ofSerapis, where colossal Egyptian statues were discovered in1839. Temple of Diana, excavated by the Count ofSyracuse in 1852. Beautiful Corinthian columns of cipilinowith cornices, statuary, etc. , now removed to Naples. TheNecropolis of Cume has yielded a vast store of vases, ornaments, etc. (See Naples Museum, ante. )The ordinary traveller may now return by the Via Cumana to Pozzuoli and Naples.[ The more resolute antiquary, if willing to devote a separateday to the Northern Craters and Cumæ, may continue north toLiternum, though there is little of general interest. The roadfollows the Via Domitiana ( 6 miles) , passing numerous: ombs,264 ENVIRONS OF NAPLES.etc. In this direction will be seen:-Lake of Licola, asource of malaria on this coast; Monte Gamdo, mentionedby Pliny; Forest of Hama (Trivia Lucus of Virgil);Liternum, ancient Roman colony. Here Scipio Africanusdied in exile. Lago di Patria , River Volturno, etc. ]On leaving Cuma to return to Naples, a long vaulted tunnel,known as the Grotta di Pietro della Pace, should bevisited . It is about half- a- mile in length, lighted by verticalshafts at intervals, and was probably a portion of the engineeringworks of Agrippa. Pedestrians can reach the north- west bankof Lake Avernus by this excavation. About 500 yards past thelava-paved road leading down to the tunnel, is the ArcoFelice, 60 feet high and 18 feet wide, spanning a deep gulley.It was probably a bridge, and also part of an aqueduct. Thetraveller now reaches the road between Baiæ and Pozzuoli,already traversed .THE ISLANDS OF PROCIDA AND ISCHIA.This excursion can be made from Naples in two days, butthree or four days may be well spent.Steamers. (Bureau, Molo Piccolo) . Start from S.Lucia and Porta di Massa. For particulars, consult local TimeTables.It is not probable that another hotel will be erected atCasamicciola after the terrible misfortune of the 28th of July,1883 , too well known to our readers.Casamicciola, Forio, and Lacco have shared a similar fate asPompeii.Procida is only a few hours distant. Visitors can land onthe beach. For Marina di Santa Maria, proceed across the isleto the Bay of Chiaiolella, thence by boat to Ischia, and on foot(or donkey, 1 fr. ) to Casamicciola.Some tourists, after visiting Ischia and Procida, cross toMiliscola, and meeting a carriage previously ordered fromNaples, proceed to visit Pozzuoli, Baiæ, and the adjacent country,previously described.The island of Procida appears to have been severed fromIschia by volcanic action. A population of nearly 14,000 liveprosperously by supplying the markets of Naples with fruit,wine, etc., and by shipbuilding. The most prominent objecton approaching the island is the fort on the north-west extremity(the Punta di Rocciola), from which a splendid view is obtained.1ISCHIA. 265Beneath it, lie the flat- roofed , white houses of the town of Procida.The approach to the island of Ischia affords a scene trulymagnificent. Above the rows of white houses, built on ancientlava streams by the shore, and the imposing castle on its precipitous rock, rise picturesque mountains clothed with richvegetation, and capped by the lofty Epomeo. North- east themountains of Terracina are visible; east, Gaeta; south- east,Vesuvius.This scene is familiar to most persons by reason of thebeautiful pictures taken of it by great artists-Turner, Stanfield,Roberts, and many others.The island of Ischia was at one time the chief seat ofvolcanic action in South Italy. It is twenty miles in circumference, having a beach on the north and west, but on the southand east the land terminates in abrupt precipices. The population of 28,000 subsist chiefly by the cultivation of the wine andby the fisheries. The climate of the island is delightful; theair is always from five to ten degrees cooler than at Naples.The soil is exceedingly productive; the flora, especially as regards ferns and orchids are interesting. The mineral waters ofIschia are the strongest in Europe, and should only be takenunder medical superintendence. In all historic periods, visitorshave delighted to sojourn in Ischia, and have joined in thegeneral chorus of admiration . Bishop Berkeley, writing to thepoet Pope, says the island " is an epitome of the whole earth,containing a wonderful variety of hills, vales, rugged rocks,fruitful plains, and barren mountains, all thrown together in amost romantic confusion." Of the view from Epomeo he says,"You have the finest prospect in the world, surveying at oneview, besides several pleasant islands lying at your feet, a tractof Italy about three hundred miles in length from the promontory of Antium to the Cape of Palinurus. Amongst the peacefuland laborious people of this beautiful island, such a thing asrobbery is almost unheard of.CASAMICCIOLA.Casamicciola was formerly the most frequented spot in the island, and at one time the population exceeded 4000 .Destroyed by an earthquake on the 28th of July, 1883 .Donkeys on hire, i fr. per hour. Many delightful walks andexcursions, and numerous hot springs and baths.266 NAPLES TO POMPEII.The ascent of Monte Epomeo from this point takes agood walker an hour and a quarter; the donkey-road is muchlonger. Notice Monte Rotaro, perfect specimen of extinctcrater , whence issued the eruption which expelled the first Greekcolony in Ischia, and gave rise to the fable of the imprisonedTyphæus shaking the island with his struggles. At the Hermitage of St. Nicola, an anchorite keeps a visitor's book. The best view is from the Belvedere, a rocky platform. Themountain rises 2616 feet above the sea- level. The charge fordonkey is 3 to 5 fr.The tour of the island occupies, with donkey, about eighthours; charge, 6 fr. Lacco, Forio, Panza, Moropano, are thechief villages passed. Everywhere the most charming anddiversified scenery meets the eye.Ischia is the capital of the island; 6500 inhabitants.Permission may be obtained from the commandant to explore the Castle, built by Alfonso I. of Arragon. A mole connectsthe castle with the mainland, and from this mole the townstretches along the coast to the Punta Molina, formed by the lava current of 1302.NAPLES TO POMPEII,By RailTourists who are pressed for time can accomplish the fourteen miles between Naples and Pompeii in about 45 minutes bythe railway, which affords fine views of the bay. The stationspassed are Portici, Resina, Torre del Greco, and Torre Annunziała. Here the branch to Castellamare (see p. 307 ) followsthe coast, whilst the line to Salerno and Eboli turns inland;Pompeii is the next station on the latter. Notice the cuttingsthrough huge lava streams near Torre del Greco.By Road.The road from Naples to Pompeii runs very near the railway,passing several places of interest as it rounds the foot of Vesuvius. We first reach Portici, with its palace beautifullysituated. Its art treasures, etc. , have been removed to Naples.Resina is built on the lava stream above Herculaneum .Numerous country residences are situated here; notice especiallyLa Favorita, once the property of the Prince of Salerno.VESUVIUS. 267Herculaneum lies buried a hundred feet and more belowResina. The remains of the town were greatly injured bycarelessness in excavating, and there is really very little now tosee. The Theatre is reached by a descent of about a hundredsteps, and shown by candles, etc. (Fee, 2 fr. ) Herculaneumis far more interesting to read about than to see, while Pompeiiis a thousand times more interesting to see than to read about.Herculaneum, whose origin the Greeks ascribed to Hercules,was successively an Oscan, Tyrrhenian , Pelargian, Samnite, andRoman city. It was overwhelmed by showers of volcanic mud,B.C. 79, and subsequent eruptions deposited thick strata aboveit, and the very site was unknown till accidentally discovered in 1709.VESUVIUS.Ascent.-Previous to the season of 1881 , the ascent of thisremarkable mountain was made partly on foot and partly onhorse or mule, and usually occupied an entire day. Startingfrom Naples very early in the morning, the traveller had firstto make his way to Resina, there obtain a guide and horse, andthen make a journey of two hours to the foot of the cone. Thecone itself could only be ascended on foot in one hour to anhour and a half, the loose ashes being very tiring to thepedestrian.The opening of the Funicular or Wire Rope Railway fromthe foot to the summit of the cone, has now entirely changedthe condition of the ascent. Instead of bargaining with guides,and undergoing various extortions, the tourist can now take histicket from Naples to the summit and back at a cost of 25 lireby day and 30 lire by night. The ticket provides for a placein a carriage from Naples to the foot of the cone, and for therailway, up and down.The railway is 985 yards long, the upper station being1300 feet above the lower. The steepest portion of the gradientis 63 feet per hundred; the least steep, 43 per hundred. Thecarriages have seats for twelve persons, and the mechanism isarranged in such a manner that, in case of accident to the rope,the carriage can be immediately stopped upon the line. Theupper station is about 300 feet from the crater, and theascent occupies only about seven minutes.Tickets for the ascent, either by day or by night, can beobtained at any of Cook's Tourist Offices (Naples, LargoVittoria). The hours of departure from Naples are from 7 a.n268 VESUVIUS.till I p.m. in summer, and from 8 a.m. till noon in winter.The daily service of the Cone Railway is between 10 a.m. and6 p.m. in summer, and between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m. in winter.Ladies or delicate persons may have a chaise- à-porteur, or sedanchair, from the upper station to the crater at a cost of 5 lire, andcan be carried round the crater for 3 lire extra.A Restaurant is at the foot of the cone, close to the station,where meals can be obtained at fixed prices. It is managedunder the supervision of the Railway Company.The road from Resina lies amongst vineyards, and then overthe lava streams to the Observatory, 2000 feet above thesea. This building was erected in 1844, and is supplied withspecial instruments for watching the volcanic phenomena. TheHermitage (a small wine house) is close by. Magnificentviews present themselves at this point, extending from MonteCircello promontory to Capri. From the Observatory Terrace,the lava streams of 1858, 1868 , and 1872, can be seen.66 From the Observatory a ride of half an hour leads to the foot of the cone. This portion of the road, described as arough, narrow trail, leading over an old lava flow- a blackocean tumbled into a thousand fantastic shapeswith thrilling suggestiveness of boiling, surging,furious motion; all stricken dead and cold in the instant of itsmaddest rioting," leads to the Atrio del Cavallo, where several Bocche or lava exits are seen. An hour's climbingup a rugged sweep of loose masses of pumice-stone brings thevisitor to the summit of Vesuvius, where, under the directionof the guide, the crater can be examined. The author justquoted describes it as " a circular ditch about two hundred feetdeep, and four or five hundred wide, whose inner wall wasabout half a mile in circumference. In the centre of the greatcircus ring thus formed was a torn and ragged upheaval a hundred feet high, all snowed over with a sulphur crust of manyand many a brilliant and beautiful colour, and the ditch enclosedthis like the moat of a castle. The sulphur coating of thatisland was gaudy in the extreme. The surroundingditch-the crater itself—had the semblance of a pleasant meadow,whose slender grasses and whose velvety mosses were frostedwith a shining dust. The walls of the ditch were brilliant with yellow banks of sulphur, and with lava and pumicestone of many colours. "·The view from " The the summit of Vesuvius is superb.graceful curve of the bay, a sheet of soft but intense azure,VESUVIUS. 269dotted with white sails; the long winding shore as far as Naples,gay with suburbs; the hills of Pausilipo covered with villas;the distant inlet of Baiæ; the islands of Ischia and Capri; thebold headlands of Sorrento; the far-distant sea extending awaytowards Mola; this unequalled combination of objects, so variedin outline, so exquisite in colour, and o'er canopied by an atmosphere so pure, a sky so lucid and transparent, that the lungsseem to expand with delight in breathing it; such is the view.(Pictures in Sicily.) Of this view, Goethe declared that one look westward repaid all the toil of the ascent. Unless the volcanois actually in eruption, tourists may approach the brink of thecrater without risk, except that of frizzling the soles of theirshoes. The crater changes its form after every great eruption.The desolate and weird appearance of the summit is very striking.The height of Mount Vesuvius varies from time to time, according as the overflowing lava adds to it or carries away previousdeposits. In 1845 it stood 3900 feet above the sea level; in 1868it had increased more than 350 feet. The eruption of 1872 somewhat reduced it; but since then small deposits have been addedby minor eruptions. The north-eastern mountain is called MonteSomma, or the highest mountain. Its highest peak is called thePunta del Nasone, or Nose Point. A deep, curving valley,called Atrio del Cavallo , lies between the Somma and the bulkof the mountain. The latter consists of a cone of ashes, fromwhose centre opens the crater. The sides of the interveningvalley are very precipitous , but the slope of the mountaintowards the sea is quite gradual.Ancient Vesuvius . -Although this mountain has beenfor over three hundred years the only outlet in a district highlyvolcanic in all directions, in earlier times it showed little signsof eruption. Strabo, writing in the time of Augustus, describesits slopes as covered with beautiful meadows, the summit alonebeing barren, and having the appearance of once having burned.In the reign of Nero, A.D. 63, the volcanic character of themountain was indicated by an earthquake, which seriouslydamaged Pompeii and Herculaneum. The first recorded outbreak of lava occurred in A.D. 79, when the country around wasdestroyed by showers of ashes and streams of lava, and the peak now called Vesuvius was first formed. The entiredestruction of Pompeii, Herculaneum, and other villages near,occurred at this time. The Elder Pliny, who commanded aRoman fleet at Misenum, landed at Castellamare for the pur-270 VESUVIUS.pose of observation, and also to assist those who were ruinedby the eruption, and fell a victim to his thirst for knowledge.The letters of his nephew, Pliny the Younger, describing theeruption, are among the most remarkable examples of Romanliterature. A severe eruption , which occurred in A.D. 222, wasdescribed in similar terms by Diodorus Cassius. Since theneruptions have taken place more or less down to the present day.Up to the year 1500, nine eruptions were recorded; sincethen no less than fifty have taken place. One of the mostimportant occurred in 1631. Stones of many tons' weight were thrown to a distance of some miles, and the day, as far as Naples, was darkened by smoke and showers of ashes. No less than 3000 persons perished. In 1707, Vesuvius was ineruption from May until August, to the great alarm of the Neapolitans. Further outbreaks occurred in 1737, 1760, and 1767; in 1794, a stream of lava ran down to the sea at Torredel Greco, making the water hiss. During the present centurythe most important outbreak was in December, 1861. Thiseruption has been described by Humboldt. In 1872 another great eruption occurred, which caused damage estimated atseveral million lire, and destroyed many lives. Since then therehave been no outbreaks of serious importance, although the mountain has on many occasions given signs of inward c......V n.Tourists who wish to see for themselves the ravages causedby volcanic agency, should visit San Sebastiano, which can bedone, from Naples or Portico, in a one-horse carriage, at a costof 4 or 5 lire.Torre del Greco, is a town of 24,000 inhabitants,flourishing, lively, and unconcerned, though the smoke of Vesuvius daily floats over it. It is built of lava, and upon thelava stream that in 1631 destroyed two- thirds of the town.Three times since it has been dest oyed by eruptions; once itwas rocked and swayed, and broken and crushed like a toy inthe hand of a giant; at another time eleven openings wereformed above the town, from whence a deluge of ashes pouredon it , and at the same time the shore in the neighbourhood wasupheaved to the extent of three feet, causing great destructionof life and property. Traces of similar catastrophes exist, allthe way to Torre dell' Annunziata. The Monastery of Camaldoli, on an isolated peak on the slopes of Vesuvius, commandsa fine panorama.Torre Annunziata ( pop . 15,000) has pretty views ofthe bay; mineral water, macaroni manufactories, etc.pitommou

Lmineral water, waaauufactories, Cic.

POMPEII

POMPEII.

Its Early History.

Of the early history of Pompeii, but little is known. Hercules is said to have founded both it and Herculaneum. Thefirst direct historical notice of the city is B.C. 310; but itmust have had an existence long before that date, and thosewho have carefully studied its remains, declare their convictionthat some of its important buildings date from the seventhcentury B.C. Pompeii and Herculaneum are said by Strabo tohave been originally possessed by the Oscans, then by theTyrrhenians ( Etrusci), they then fell into the hands of theGreek colonies of Cuma and Parthenope, and finally into thoseof the Samnites, who made themselves masters of the Campania B.C. 440. Eighty years later, the cities of Campaniathrew off the yoke of the Samnites and placed themselvesunder the protection of Rome. Nothing of importance isknown of the city until B.C. 90, when in the Social War itjoined the Marsian confederacy. From this time to the periodofits destruction , it was to all intents and purposes a Romancity; much visited by Emperors and nobles, and celebrated forits baths, its gladiatorial displays, and above all for its magni- ficent situation.Pompeii before the Eruption.Looking from the quay of S. Lucia towards Vesuvius, onewould suppose that Naples extended without interruption thewhole length of the coast. Distance alone produces this illusion. This long line of houses, which appear only as a suburbof Naples, is composed of a number of towns and villages,viz.:-Portici, Resina, Torre del Greco, Torre dell' Annunziata, Castellamare, and Sorrento. During the first century ofour era, under the Roman Emperors, all these same appearancesexisted. The coast of Naples offered to the eye the same enchantments, to the mind the same languor, and to maritimecommerce the same advantages. An active and numerous population, occupied either with business or pleasure, hurried alongthis narrow shore. The towns or villages had not then the same names as now, with the exception of Naples and Sorrento(Neapolis and Sorrentum); Resina was called Herculaneum,Torre dell' Annunziata was then Aplonte, and Castellamare was called Stabies. There was on the sea-shore another cityof great importance, whose name has neither been altered norPOMPEII. 272 preserved, for it has, during fifteen centuries, been effaced fromhistory-this is Pompeii. Naples was not then, as it is now,a city of half a million population. It was a city of pleasureand amusem*nt for the Romans. Its port, not much fre- quented, was of less importance than that of Herculaneum,and still less than that of Pompeii , which, according to all appearance, was the great commercial port of one part ofItaly.It served as the entrepôt for merchandise at Nola,Nocera, and Atella. Its port, situated at a short distance fromthe town, was very spacious, sufficiently so to receive a navalarmy, for it sheltered the entire fleet of Cornelius. Pompeii was under Roman rule, but was not much burdened with itsyoke. The city only had to pay a tribute of men in case ofIn consideration of this service, she governed herself,having her own senate and magistrates. It was through thesefavourable conditions that Pompeii acquired such great prosperity. The population at that time exceeded 40,000.war.The appearance of the cities, by the side of the bay, at thefoot of Vesuvius, may have been much the same then as now.But Vesuvius, as we now know it, with its immense cone andThere was in its place asmoking summit, did not then exist. mountain called La Somma, whose height was not much morethan half that of the present Vesuvius. La Somma had not thegloom of the burning mountain which now seems suspended asan eternal menace to the inhabitants round Naples. It was arural and charming mountain , wooded from its base to near thetop. The merchants of Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Naples,used to spend here their leisure time, and many wealthy Romans from all parts of Italy had country houses in the neigh- bourhood of La Somma. Cicero did not fail to build one there,although he had châteaux at many other places. Nothing,indeed, forewarned the inhabitants round Naples of the catastrophe which threatened them. Truly applicable to them were They danced over a vol- the famous words of M. Salvandy,It is true Strabo and other ancient writers had saidthat in times past La Somma had been the theatre of volcaniceruption. But the Romans held their scholars too much at adistance to trouble themselves about what the ancient authorshad written; geology as a science did not then exist, and thePompeians would have been much puzzled to distinguish avolcanic from a calcareous rock. Although at the gates of Naples were seen the " Burning Fields, " covered with volcaniceruption, and the Solfatara of Pozzuoli smoking to no smallcano."66POMPEII. 273extent, no one had the least fear. They did not wish to consider La Somma a volcano. The poet sang of it as the sourcefrom whence the gods made a luscious wine to flow, as a perfumed present to that blessed land. However, in the yearA.D. 63 , the inhabitants of Pompeii received from the mountaintheir first warning. In that year Pompeii was fearfully shakenby an earthquake. The palace of justice, the colonnade of theforum , the tragic and comic theatres, with several temples andhouses, were overthrown by the convulsions of the earth.Half the population, struck with terror, left the city, takingwith them their valuables, furniture, and statues. This earthquake was also felt at Naples and at Nocera. Seneca says thatat Nocera there did not remain a single house standing, andthat nearly all the inhabitants lost their lives or their reason.At Naples, when this catastrophe happened, the people were assembled to hear Nero himself execute the famous cantatawhich he had composed; a choir of 500 persons accompaniedthe voice of the tyrant. As they admired the grace and ease of the crowned artist, the building gave way. Nero did notThiswish the music to be interrupted for so little. He would notallow the crowd to go out until the singing was finished. Manypersons were consequently buried in the ruins, and the Emperorhimself was not rescued without considerable trouble.warning, notwithstanding its gravity, was lost upon the Pompeians; the Senate, after having hesitated for some time ,decided to order the reconstruction of the city. They wishedthis rebuilding to be a thorough re-adorning of the city. Artistswere brought from every corner of Italy to compete in theembellishment of the repopulated city. The basilica, the forum,and the temples were remodelled, and ornamented with capitalsin the new fashion; that is to say in the Corinthian Romanorder. The interiors of the houses were covered with paintings executed upon excellent stucco, and represented the bestcompositions of Greek and Roman art. Statues of marble andbronze adorned the atrium, the dining- rooms and the chambersof each house. Fountains, ornamented with groups of puremarble, were placed in the interior courtyards. Luxury andtaste were everywhere exercised to embellish the new city.With the rebuilding of the temples, work and pleasureagain revived; domestic duties resumed their accustomedcourse in the houses enlivened with new paintings, until inthe year 79 A.D., came the disastrous eruption which broughtPompeii to utter ruin.1827+ POMPEII.The Eruption."On the 23rd of August, A.D. 79, at about 2 o'clock p.m. ,the inhabitants at the foot of the mountain were alarmed byterrible sounds from the depths of La Somma. During thepreceding days several shocks of earthquake had caused someuneasiness over a large expanse of surrounding country. The sky was serene, the sea calm. The wind, which blew at firstfrom the north, fixed afterwards in the east. The noiseredoubled in violence; and then an enormous column of wateryvapour, which has been compared by Pliny the Younger to thetrunk and branches of a pine tree, crowned the mountain withits dismal plume. This formidable cloud, coming from thebowels of the earth, gradually enlarged. It remained sometime suspended in the air, motionless. Then, still enlarging,the vapour condensed and fell in boiling rain on the sides of themountain, from whence it went to the sea. Herculaneum,situated at the foot of the mountain, between it and the sea,came in the way of this terrible torrent of mud. At the sametime the mountain, opening all its abysses, threw out a frightfulmass of burning stones and earth calcined by the fire. All thisbeat upon Herculaneum."We will leave to others the task of describing the scenes ofterror, of confusion, and of death, which prevailed in the thickdarkness which enveloped this city, whilst the cataracts ofearth and sky opened to devour them. The inhabitants ofHerculaneum fled, some to Naples and some to Pompeii.Those who sought the former place only were rightly inspired,for Naples did not suffer any harm, but Pompeii shared thefate of Herculaneum .66" Until the evening it was believed that Pompeii would bespared, but towards eight o'clock the eruption of La Somma redoubled in violence. The electric detonations did not ceaseto resound in the depths of the mountain, as the watery vapourescaped. Succeeding the burning vapours was a fearful massof pumice stones, red with fire. All around, the mountain wascovered with the dark cloud of these stones, which, strikingagainst each other in the air, caused a fearful noise. Thismineral rain beat upon Pompeii. The hour-glass that wasfound turned over at Pompeii points to two hours after midnight. It was therefore in the middle of the night that thisdisaster fell upon the unfortunate city. This night seemedeternal. No one saw the sun rise on the morrow, for the cloudPOMPEII. 275of earth and lapilli , which fell without ceasing, darkened the sky and prevented their knowing the arrival of the day. Thetown of Pompeii was a scene of horror, better imagined than described." On the 24th of August, the day after the destruction ofHerculaneum and Pompeii, Stabies was in its turn attacked by this fearful cloud, which carried with it fire and death. Vesuvius finished the work which the conqueror Sylla had commenced, only the volcano went further-it effaced even thesituation of the town. The air was so thick, that at seven leaguesfrom the volcano it was almost stifling. They say that it extendedas far as Africa. At least it reached Rome, and made it quitedark. The Romans said to each other, ' The end of the worldis come! the sun is going to fall to the earth, or the earthmount up and be set on fire by the heavens. ' Pliny wrote,'What mournfully consoled us was the thought, that the wholeuniverse was perishing with ourselves .'"During these two terrible days seven cities or towns ceasedto exist-Herculaneum and its port Resina, Aplonte, Tagianum,Taurania, Pompeii, and Stabies."It was a wonderful piece of good fortune that the catastrophe should have been witnessed by one who had the power to describe it graphically, and the reader is referred for furtherdetails to the two letters written by Pliny the Younger toTacitus, in which he describes the intrepidity and death of hisuncle, who perished in the catastrophe.How the Cities were Buried."Wehave no positive details of the circ*mstances which preceded and accompanied the eruption of La Somma, and whichformed the cone of tufa and pumice-stone composing the present Vesuvius, and buried under stones and earthy dust these citiesof Campania. The houses of Herculaneum and all objects contained in them are covered with an earthy crust, hard and compact, which can only be removed by means of the chisel. Thereis preserved in the Museum at Naples, as an instructivecuriosity, an iron stewpan partly extricated from its earthly covering. It can only be removed by means of a hammer and chisel.This example is sufficient to show the difficulty, or rather theimpossibility, of laying open the whole of Herculaneum and extricating the objects it contains, the town being now coveredwith earth to the depth of 20 metres. It is not lava, as so many276 POMPEII.have said, which encrusts Herculaneum, but an entirely earthyformation mixed with pumice, in substance like that which forms the cone of Vesuvius. It must therefore be admitted that Herculaneum was not destroyed by a stream of volcanic lava, forVesuvius did not pour out any lava during the eruption of 79 , butit was drowned in a stream of mud. Vesuvius at first cast outa watery vapour, and then there mingled with it an immensemass of earthy matter, sand, and pumice- stone. The water,condensing in the air, fell in the form of boiling rain on thesides of the mountain, and drew with it great quantities ofearthy materials. It thus formed a torrent of mud, whichbeating upon the city submerged it. Of this mud, dried bythe air, and still more condensed by the weight of the earthand real lava which have been cast out by other eruptions, hasbeen formed the hard crust which now envelopes Hercula- neum . With Pompeii it was different. On witnessing themarvellous and easy work of clearing this city, one can understand perfectly well how it was entombed. Everywhere areseen two layers, one over the other. One layer of smallwhitish pumice- stones, called at Naples lapilli; they are aboutthe size of a pea; and above these is a layer of brown dust,exceedingly fine and moveable. Pompeii was not then eithercovered with the lava, as later so many villages situated near thevolcano have been, or drowned by a stream of mud, as Herculaneum . It was buried under enormous masses of lapilli andthe dust of pumice-stones-generally, but very improperly,called cinders. The intense heat of these lapilli and dust,coming red hot from the burning crater, carbonized the roofs ofthe houses, which were made of wooden beams, and thenforced their way through the ceilings. The houses were bydegrees entirely filled up by the incessant fall of the volcanicdust."EXCAVATIONS AT POMPEII.The city was completely buried, and lay beneath a mass ofmaterials from ten to twenty feet deep. The face of the countryall around was altered , the shape of the mountain was changed,but Pompeii was not forgotten. The Emperor Titus contemplated its re-building, but abandoned the project. The EmperorSeverus plundered it to enrich Rome. Italian authors, from1488-1556, referred to it, and even indicated the supposedsite of the city. A Roman architect, Domenico Fontana,constructed, in 1592, a subterranean canal under the very sitePOMPEII. 277of Pompeii, from the Sarno to Torre dell ' Annunziata, and metwith many memorials of the ruined city; but there was noearnest spirit of scientific research in those days, and no attemptswere made to carry investigations further. It was not till thereign of Charles III . ( 1748) , the first Bourbon king of Naples,that the work of excavation commenced. Herculaneum hadalready been indentified, and the attention of scientific men wasbeing directed to the subject of excavations, when a peasantalighted upon a house containing statues and bronze utensils.Charles III . entrusted one Don Roca Alcubierre, a Spanishofficer of engineers, to commence the work of disentombment.He commenced at what is now called the Street of Fortuna.First a fine fresco was found, then a helmet, then coins; andthe work proceeded so rapidly, that by the end of the year the amphitheatre was laid bare. From that time to the present,with the exception of a few years, the work has been continued-at first slowly-so that at the end of a century only one-thirdof the city was disclosed. And fortunately so, for the spirit in which the work was done was rather that of the Vandal thanthe archæologist.-With the changes of 1860 came a change in the management of the excavations at Pompeii. The Cavaliere GiuseppeFiorelli , a profound scholar and antiquary, was entrusted with the superintendence of affairs. Since his appointment, everyyear has seen most important and satisfactory results, and now the tourist can walk from one end of the city to the other.The picture of an old Roman town is marvellously vivid; andits shops, streets, and alleys, its forum, baths, and amphitheatre,its costly houses, works of art, and tombs-all are laid bare,and the dead city lives again.The traveller will not care for a lengthy history of Pompeii.Nor in the following description will it be desirable to give more than an outline of the principal thingsto be seen, togetherwith such condensed information as may lend an interest to their inspection.Pompeii, once seen, will never be forgotten by the tourist;and, with the buried city in his mind's eye, he will read thedescriptions of standard authors with a keen appreciation . Ofthe many works on the subject, Overbeck's "Pompeji," Dr.Dyer's " Ruins of Pompeii," and Sir W. Gell's " Pompeiana,"are the best and most exhaustive. No book of fiction caninterest the tourist who lingers in the neighbourhood more thanLytton's " Last Days of Pompeii."278 POMPEII.The following interesting passage from an article in the"Quarterly Review," ( 1864, ) will indicate one aspect inwhich the traveller will find special interest in viewing the ruins:-"Nothing conveys a loftier conception of the grandeur,might, wealth and civilization of the Roman Empire at its mostflourishing period, than the remains of its provincial towns,and especially of its colonial cities. It is not the public edificesof Rome herself, unequalled as they are for vastness and magnificence, which impress us most with her former power. Theyare such monuments as we might expect from those who peopledthe capital of the world. But it is the third or fourth class town,such as Pompeii, with its two theatres, its amphitheatre, itstemples, its basilica, and its forum-all upon a scale of singularsplendour, adorned with hundreds of statues in bronze andmarble, with exquisite paintings, and with the most precious marbles that fills our minds with wonder, andenables us to form some conception of the greatness and powerof that mighty people."· • •POMPEII.(Hotels. See Appendix .)The quickest and cheapest way to reach Pompeii is by railway from Naples. Trains run frequently.The drive from Naples is interesting, passing Portici, Resina,Torre del Greco, Herculaneum, etc. (p. 266) . Abargain shouldbe made with the driver, who should also be instructed to setdown the passengers at the Porta della Marina, and wait forthem at the Amphitheatre, or the Street of the Tombs.The plan of the following description is arranged to commence at the Porta della Marina, near the Forum, and terminate with the Street of the Tombs.At least three to four hours should be devoted to the visit,which should be repeated as often as time and opportunitypermit.The charge for admission is 2 fr. each person, whichincludes the services of an authorized guide, who accompaniesthe party throughout the visit. On Sundays, admission is free.It will be well to arrange a plan of action before starting, so asnot to be left to the control of the guide.POMPEII. 279Tourists are recommended to visit the National Museumat Naples (p. 209) before visiting Pompeii.Starting from the Porta della Marina, a steep street leads toThe Temple of Venus,the patron goddess of Pompeii, the largest and finest Temple inthe city, an edifice of early origin, but restored after the earthquake of A.D. 63. It stands on an elevated basem*nt, in anopen area, and is approached by a flight of steps. Surroundingit was a peristyle of forty- eight columns forming a portico or arcade. These columns were originally Ionic, but were badlyaltered into Corinthian . In one of them there is a perforationmade to receive a pipe, through which the water for the sacrificesflowed into a basin placed on a fluted pedestal.In front of the steps stands an altar. This altar was notadapted, some authorities contend , for sacrifices of blood, butonly for the usual offerings to Venus, fruit, incense, and flowers. On the east and west sides of the altar is an inscription recording the fact that the Quatuor Viri erected it at theirown expense. On the walls under the colonnade were paintings in bright colours of dwarfs, pigmies, dancers, etc. Withinthe cellar, the admirable fresco of Bacchus and Silenus was found. In the vestibule of the temple was found a muchmutilated statue of Venus, which by some has been consideredto bear a faint resemblance in expression to the Medicean Venus.The Forum.The principal streets of Pompeii (six in number) led up tothe Forum, which was, as in every Roman city, the centre ofall the life of the place. It is surrounded on three sides by Doric columns of limestone 12 feet high. Above this colonnadethere was formerly a gallery. The area, 530 feet long by 112feet broad, is paved with large slabs of stone. Twenty- twoornamented pedestals for statues adorned the area, and the effect must have been imposing. The statues were in honour ofEmperors and Pompeian citizens, and some still bear dedicatoryinscriptions. To the north of the Forum is the280 POMPEII.Temple of Jupiter,raised upon a basem*nt 10 feet high, and like the Temple of theCapitoline Jove at Rome, it was dominant over the whole city.The entrance is approached by a flight of eighteen steps, andthe façade is embellished with six columns in front and threeon either side, of fluted Corinthian pattern . In the interior arow of pillars runs on each side the cella ( nave) , which wasprobably open above. The interior was painted chiefly inblack and red; a border of black and white mosaic encloses thepavement. The temple is 122 feet long, including the approach.Many interesting relics were discovered here, particularly thecolossal head of the god whose worship was celebrated in thisplace, and the skeleton of a man crushed by the falling of acolumn. At the time of the eruption the temple was beingrestored.The Prison,adjoining the north-east end of the Forum, is approached by alow arch of brick. The cells are narrow and dark: the skeletons of one or two of the prisoners were found here, theshackles still encircling their leg-bones.Adjoining the prison was the Public Granary, and nearhere, under the colonnade of the Forum, were found theStandard Measures for grain, wine, and oil . The originals are in the Museum ( p. 225) , but the copies in the recessare accurate. The measures for grain are thick horizontal slabsof stone with a sliding bottom, which, when the measure wasfull, could be pulled out, and the contents dropped into a sackbeneath. For the wine and oil, tubes were provided to draw offthe liquids.Close to the Temple of Jupiter is a Triumphal Arch,or rather the piers and part of the columns that embellishedthem. Statues probably stood in the niches, and some apparatus was found which suggests that one of them was used as a fountain.At the north-east of the Forum is theTemple of Augustus,or, as it has been variously called the Pantheon, and the houseof the Augustales. The use to which this temple was put isot clear; the twelve pedestals round the altar suggest that it as a Pantheon. It is more probable, however, that it wasPOMPEII.281used as a college of Augustales (an order founded by Augustus) .Whatever its use, it is sacred to the memory of those who livedwell. The decorations, the shops, the kitchen, the very namesof the streets surrounding it, all suggest that the sacrificesoffered here were celebrated by banquets. The Pantheon consisted of an open atrium or court, 120 feet by yo feet, in whichwas the altar, surrounded by the twelve pedestals above referredto. Behind the altar was a niche, in which was placed, perhaps, the image of the presiding deity, to whom an offeringmight be made on entering. The paintings on the walls havebeen wonderfully preserved; the best are Ulysses and Penelope,Theseus and Ethra, and the Muse Thalia. The porticoeswere 24 feet in depth on the west side, and were probably roofed with timber. On the south are twelve small chamberspainted in red panels, supposed to have been the Chambers ofthe Augustales, and above them there was evidently another set of rooms. The court is paved with pebbles embedded incement. Many curiosities are pointed out in this temple, suchas the gallery used by the orchestra, the refreshment bar, theporter's ticket office, etc. One very curious discovery wasmade in the sink-hole in the centre of the court; it was foundto be choked up with fish-bones, and articles of food!It should be noted that the statues of Livia and Drusus,discovered in this temple, were removed to the Museum atNaples (p. 209) , and are here replaced by copies.Adjoining the building connected with the Temple ofAugustus, and called (whether correctly or not is doubtful) the Senaculum, is theTemple of Mercury, or, as it is as frequently called,the Temple of Quirinus; the former name is derived solelyfrom the fact that certain inscriptions discovered in Pompeiireferred to a Temple of Mercury, which it was thought shouldbe in the Forum . The latter appellation is derived from aninscription found in the Forum, commemorating the achievements of Romulus, and his deification under the name of Quirinus. The temple is an irregular quadrangle, at one end ofwhich is a sanctuary with a pedestal for the statue of the presiding deity. Many relics are kept in this temple, as vases,fetters, wheels, earthenware, etc. Special attention should begiven to the white marble altar in the centre of the court. Thebas-reliefs on one side of the altar represent (foreground) thecelebration of a sacrifice; and in the background a representation of the temple. On the opposite side the utensils employed282 POMPEII.in connection with the sacrifice, a curious illustration of thereligious rites of antiquity.The Chalcidicum, or Crypto- Porticus, erected by apriestess Eumachia at her own expense, is in the form of abasilica, and was probably used as a cloth- market or exchange.Over the entrance from the Strada dell' Abbondanza is aninscription, to the following effect: " Eumachia, the publicpriestess, daughter of Lucius, in her own name and that of herson, M. Numistrus Fronto, erected this Chalcidicum andCrypto- Porticus at her own expense, and dedicated the sameto Concord and Piety ." There are two entrances; one, asalready mentioned, from the Street of Abundance, and the otherfrom the Forum. The whole building consists of a hypethrum,or open court; a portico adorned with 48 marble columns; achalcidicum, or enclosed apartment, at the further extremity; asemicircular recess at the end containing a statue of Concord;and a crypto-porticus, which ran round three sides of the building. It was lighted at intervals by windows, and above it wasa wooden gallery. A cornice projected from the gallery into the area, sheltering the tables on which the fullers and clothmerchants carried on their sales . In a niche at the back of thesemicircular recess is a copy of the Statue of Eumachia, erectedby the fullers in memory of their benefactor. The original has been removed to Naples. (See p. 216.)66 Several interesting inscriptions were discovered in thisbuilding. One on the outer wall announced, The gladiatorial troupe of Suettius Curius, the ædile, will fight at Pompeiion the last day of May. There will be a chase of wild beasts(venatio), and awnings (vela) to protect spectators from the sun."On the other side of the Street of Abundance is a cornerbuilding, which, in the absence of other information, has beencalled the School of Verna, from the name of Verna havingbeen found in an inscription supplicating for himself and hispupils the aid of Cœlius Capella, the Duumvir of Justice.At the southern extremity of the Forum are three halls ofnearly equal size, which have been called the Curiæ, orcourts where cases of minor importance were decided by themagistrates. The central hall is called the Ærarium, orTreasury, from the fact that many coins were discovered here.Whatever the use of these buildings may have been, there aretraces to show that they must have been richly decorated.Adjoining these are two houses which were excavated byPOMPEII. 283General Championnet while in command of the French troopsin occupation of Naples. They are called the Houses ofChampionnet, and deserve inspection on account of theelegance of their decoration.Close to these houses, on the western side of the Forum, isThe Basilica .It is one of the largest buildings in Pompeii, and is oblong,as was the invariable rule . It is 220 feet long, 80 feet broad.It was open to the sky, except the gallery running round it ,which rests on 28 fluted Ionic columns of brick and tufacovered with stucco. At one end of the peristyle is the Praetors ' Tribunal, a platform 6 to 7 feet high, ascended by woodensteps. Underneath is a vault supposed to have been used as a dungeon for the accused. A bronze statue stood on thepedestal in front of the tribunal . Here, as elsewhere in Pompeii, the vice of scribbling upon the walls is traced . In thisinstance, to good account, as an inscription shows that theBasilica was standing in the year that Lepidus and Catulusheld the commandership (B.C. 79) . It was made by one Pumidius Dipilus, who scratched his name on the wall in that year,thus:-C. PVMIDIVS DIPILVS HEIC FVIT ADV NONAS OCTOBREISM. LEPID Q CATVLCOS.Having gone round the Forum, let the traveller now crossfrom the Basilica to the Chalcidicum, and enter the Stradadell' Abbondanza (Street of Abundance, so named froma fountain with head and cornucopia) . A short distance downthis street on the right is the House of the Wild Boar,so named from a mosaic in the prothyrum representing a boarattacked by two dogs. The peristyle is well preserved, andhas fourteen Ionic columns with their capitals. In the atriumis a mosaic, the border of which represents a walled city- perhaps Pompeii.Turning to the right, towards the unexcavated part of the town-the small street or lane is called the Vicolo dei DodiciDei is a painting on a wall, representing the twelve greatdivinities, and their attributes. It is not in good condition.Returning to the Strada dell' Abbondanza, the second turningon the right is the Street of the Theatre, at the end of which is the284 POMPEII.Triangular Forum,an irregular triangle flanked on the east and west sides by aDoric colonnade, 450 feet long on the eastern side , and 300 feeton the western, adorned with ninety columns. The third sidehad no portico, and was probably bordered with shops. Fromthe eastern side there were three entrances to the great theatre.Within the area are the ruins of a sacred edifice, called theGreek Temple, or the Temple of Hercules, undoubtedly theoldest building hitherto discovered, by some experts considered to date as far back as 800 B.C. If so, it must have been builtby the early Greek settlers. Little of the edifice remains, but itis clear that it stood on a basem*nt, approached by five steps.It was 120 feet long, and 70 broad. In front of the steps is anenclosure, in which it is presumed the animals to be offered insacrifice were kept, and beside it are three altars. Close by arethe remains of a small Circular Temple, with eight Doriccolumns covering a puteal, or well. This is generally supposedto be a Bidental, or locus fulminatus-a place struck by lightning, or where a thunderbolt had fallen. Such places weresacred to Pluto and infernal deities, and were held in great aweby the ancient Romans. To violate its precincts was sacrilegeof the worst kind. At the south-west angle of the temple is asemi-circular seat, so placed as to command a fine view of the surrounding country.The Great Theatre,to which there were three entrances from the eastern side of theTriangular Forum, is situated on the southern slope of a hill,the large circular corridor surrounding the entire cavea beingthe highest part. The theatre was injured by the earthquakeA.D. 63, and an inscription shows that it was restored by M.Artorius, at the cost of M. Holconius Rufus. It is curious thatPompeii should have remained undiscovered so long, for it iscertain that the great wall which encloses the theatre was nevercompletely buried. The theatre was constructed to accommodate 5000 spectators, and in the palmy days of the city it musthave presented a gay appearance, with its marble decorations,its statues, and scenic embellishments. The following pointsmay be observed by the spectator: -The stage is long andarrow, and in front of it may still be seen the opening for theop scene. At the back of the stage are three doors deeplyessed, and behind them the green room. In the wall supting the front part of the stage are recesses, which may havePOMPEII. 285been occupied by the musicians. The wall of the cavea stillexhibits the lines of benches, summa, media, and infima: thefirst containing five tiers, occupied by the chairs of the nobility;the second, occupied by the middle classes (who usuallybrought their own cushions to sit upon) , containing twenty tiers;the third rank contains only four tiers. Staircases, doors forentrance and exit, and corridors, leading to various parts of thetheatre, may be traced. High above all is the women's gallery,for in ancient theatres the women were separated from the men.The seats were divided into compartments or boxes, the space allotted to each lady being 1 foot 3 inches. In the wallenclosing the theatre are projecting stone rings, which formerly received the masts of the velarium or awning, used as a protection from the sun.From the eastern side of the stage a covered portico led to the orchestra of the small theatre.The Small Theatre, or Odeum,although inferior in decoration and construction to the greattheatre, is in a better state of preservation. Its general plan ismuchthe same, although the form of the building is somewhat different. It is supposed to have been built soon after theSocial War, and the following inscription records that it waspermanently roofed. " Caius Quinctius Valgus, son of Caius,and Marcus Porcius, son of Marcus, Duumviri, by a decree ofthe Decurii, let out the covered theatre to be erected by contract,and the same approved it."The scena, the front wall of the proscenium, and the pavement of the orchestra, were in various coloured marbles, and aninscription announces that the latter was the gift of M. OculatiusVerus, son of Marcus, Duumvir for the games. The numberof spectators who could be accommodated with seats is estimatedat 1500. At the back of the two theatres is a large rectangularenclosure, which has been variously called the School of theGladiators, the Forum Nundinarium, or weekly market, and theSoldiers' Barracks.It is still doubtful which of these is the correct designation, butthe balance of evidence is in favour of its having been a Romangarrison. It is 190 feet long by 160 broad, surrounded by acolonnade of Doric columns. Around the colonnade arerecesses where provisions were sold. There are also rooms286 POMPEII.which have been called the soldiers' mess-room, the guard-room,etc. Four flights of stairs led to the upper story, which hasbeen called the officers' quarters. Amongthese ruins sixty-three skeletons were discovered. In the guard- room were fourskeletons with their legs in iron stocks. Under the stairs lay the skeleton of a man holding a silver cup. At the entrancegate lay thirty-four skeletons together. When first unearthedthe building contained in every part indications that it was frequented by gladiators. On one of the columns of the porticowas found the name Valerius, followed by the figures XX,supposed to represent the number of his victories. The namesof other known gladiators were also found inscribed on theinner wall. Many valuable articles, the majority of which were of a military character, were also discovered here. A short distance from the soldiers' barracks is the Gate of Stabiæ,built of huge blocks of stone, put togetherwithout mortar. The holes for the bolts show that it was closed by double doors, andnot by the usual portcullis. A valuable Oscan inscription was discovered here, which shows that the gate was at a remoteperiod called the Stabean Gate. It gives also the names ofthree streets, which were constructed by the public slaves ofPompeii, under the direction of the surveyors, and states that one street led to the temple of Jupiter Meilichius.Let the traveller now return along the Strada Stabiana, andafter passing the boundary wall of the small theatre, he will findon the left the House of the Sculptor, of little interest initself, but remarkable for the treasures which were found in it,and are now in the Museum at Naples (see p. 209) . Compasses, mallets, levers, saws, unfinished statues, in fact, all theappliances of the sculptor's art, were found here just as he hadleft them on the day of doom. A few steps further on, at thecorner of the Street of Isis, is the Temple of Esculapius.Whether it was dedicated to Æsculapius or not is uncertain, butin the cella his statue was discovered, together with that ofHygeia and Priapus. By some it has been called the Theatre ofJupiter and Juno. It is a small building the smallest temple,in fact, in Pompeii; and the most interesting object it containsis a large altar, which stands in the open court. It is built oftufa, and closely resembles the sarcophagus in the Vatican,known as the Tomb of the Scipios.

Close to this temple may be seen, through an aperture in thearch, the Aqueduct built by Domenico Fontana in 1592, tosupply Torre dell' Annunziata with water from the Sarno. ItPOMPEII. 287must have been evident to him that he was carrying on hiswork in the midst of the buried city; and one cannot butwonder at the apathy of the times which allowed the ruins of Pompeii to be left unrevealed.The Temple of Isiswas destroyed by the earthquake of A.D. 63 , and the presentbuilding had been only just restored at the time of the greateruption. Over the entrance is the copy of an inscription dis- covered there. It runs thus: " Numerinus Popidius Celsinus,son of Numerinus, restored from the foundation, at his ownexpense, the Ædes of Isis, overthrown by an earthquake . TheDecurii, on account of his liberality, elected him, when sixtyyears of age, to be one of their order, without paying fees."The Temple is on a slightly elevated basem*nt in the centreof a court surrounded by a portico of painted Corinthiancolumns, between which are several altars. In the inner templewas found an image of Isis, which is preserved in the Museum.On the south side are the chambers used by the priests . Severalskeletons were found here, one being that of a man who hadendeavoured to cleave his way through a wall, the door havingbeen blocked up by the ashes. The axe lay by his side, and traces of his frantic efforts were seen upon the wall. On thefireplace remnants of food were discovered. There are manyinteresting things to trace in this Temple-the Purgatorium,containing the Sacred Well, where the worshippers performedtheir ablutions; the halls, embellished with elegant reliefs instucco; an adjoining wall, still bearing the traces of smoke from the sacrificial fire.Leaving the Temple of Isis, the building on the left, justbefore reaching the portico of the Triangular Forum , should next be visited . It has been variously called the CuriaIsiaca, the School, and the Tribunal; but these are mere conjectures, no satisfactory evidence of its purpose having yet been discovered. It is an oblong court, 80 feet long by 60 feetbroad, surrounded with Doric columns, with two chambers atone end, supposed to be the crypt, and a pulpitum, raised about seven feet high. An inscription was found in the GreatTheatre, which has been translated as follows, and is by some considered to refer to this building: "Marcus HolconiusRufus, son of Marcus, built the Crypt, Tribunal, and Theatre,for the honour of the city (colonia) ."The first building on the right hand, in the Street of the288 POMPEII.Holconii, which crosses the Street of the Theatre, is the Houseof Holconius, numbered 4. It was an elegant mansion,with a handsome peristyle, and the embellishments usual in thehouses of noble Pompeians. In this house lived a lover of thefine arts, and a man of good taste. Paintings may be stilltraced here, though some are fading, and the best have vanished.Groups of Bacchus and Ariadne, Diana and Endymion, Ledaand Children, Silenus supporting a Hermaphrodite, and othersyet remain. The most remarkable, perhaps, is that of Bacchusand Ariadne, of which Dr. Dyer has given a lengtheneddescription. Many of the decorations in this house are very rich . Several skeletons were discovered here, among them oneof a female, in whose hand was found a casket of treasures,who was arrested by the fatal vapour while endeavouring toescape.A short distance further on, in the same street, is the Houseof Cornelius Rufus. The spacious atrium contains twohandsome pedestals carved in the form of lions, on which pro- bably stood a table. A marble bust of the owner of the house,inscribed with his name, was discovered here, and still standsin the atrium.The tourist who intends to visit the Amphitheatre (whichalthough exceedingly interesting, does not materially differ fromother Amphitheatres that he will probably have already seen inItaly) , should now cross the Strada Stabiana, and continue for aconsiderable distance, as the building is at the extreme southwest of the town, quite apart from the other ruins.The Amphitheatre. -This building is the last visited,as a rule, by travellers who have arrived at Pompeii by carriage;they usually enter the ruins at the Porta della Marina, or theStreet of the Tombs, and send the carriage round to the Amphitheatre to await them there. The Amphitheatre at Pompeii,although not equal in appearance to the Colosseum at Rome,was large enough to accommodate 20,000 spectators. Like allsimilar erections it is elliptical in shape, and measures 433 feetby 335. At either end of the ellipse may be seen the entrancesfor the combatants into the arena. The spectators were admitted by tickets, some of which are preserved in the Museum;and the seats were arranged very much in the same manner asthose in theatres. The first series of seats, having 5 tiers, wasdevoted to the use of the wealthy, senators, magistrates, etc.;POMPEII. 289the second series had 12 tiers, and the third 18; and above allran a gallery, in which attendants, servants, and a promiscuous multitude assembled.The construction of the seats should be observed, as theyare cut with places for the feet, so that the persons in the tierbelow should not be inconvenienced . When the Amphitheatrewas first laid bare, many interesting frescoes and inscriptionsrelating to the usages of the arena were discovered, but soonperished from exposure to the air. Several important sketcheshave, however, been preserved , and may be found, togetherwith an elaborate account of amphitheatres in general, and thisamphitheatre in particular, in Dr. Dyer's " Ruins of Pompeii. "It will be remembered that on the day of the eruption, thePompeians had assembled in this building to witness a gladiatorial show, and to this fact, which Lord Lytton has workedout with such thrilling interest in his " Last Days of Pompeii, "is to be attributed the comparative scarcity of skeletons discovered in the city, as it is supposed upon the first burst of theeruption, the spectators fled into the open country and so weresaved. The Amphitheatre was built a few years before thebirth of Christ; it suffered from the earthquake of 63, and wasnot completely restored at the time of its destruction . In theStreet of the Tombs is a curious inscription, giving the namesof certain combatants who took part in the gladiatorial shows,and from this source Lord Lytton was able to introduce the names of actual characters in his fiction.Returning to the Strada Stabiana, and entering again theStreet of Holconius, the tourist will find on his right hand theprincipal entrance to theStabian Thermæ,so called, to distinguish them from the smaller and less magnificent baths in the neighbourhood of the Forum. The StabianThermæ are entered by a wide portal, opening into a spaciouscourt, or Palæstra, where gymnastic exercises were performed;this court has a portico with fluted Doric columns and ornamented capitals. Onthe walls are stucco ornaments, arabesques,and paintings, some in good preservation. The court is 44 yardslong, and 27 broad, and in it were found two large stone balls,which were evidently used in some game of skill or strength.Opposite the entrance a door opens on a Tepidarium, and a19290 POMPEII.corridor, where single baths are situated . On the other side isa Spoliatorium, with small dressing- rooms. A passage leadsinto the Calidarium, and another to the Tepidarium, whichcontained, besides the usual square marble bath, an elegant fountain .The side of the Thermæ parallel with the Strada Stabiana,is full of various apartments, where may be traced the placesoccupied by the furnaces of the two Tepidaria, with hollowwalls for circulating the hot vapour. A magnificent Apodyterium, with circular arches, surrounded by marble seats, andrich with reliefs in stucco; a richly- decorated atrium, etc., etc.A short description of the process of bathing may not beuninteresting. Those who took the cold bath only, enteredthe Apodyterium, where they undressed, then donned a looserobe and passed to the bath. The processes for the hot bathwere more complicated, and resembled in some degree themodern Turkish bath. Passing into the Tepidarium, wherethey unrobed, they entered the Sudatorium or vapour bath.Then followed the use of the strigil, an instrument of bone,iron, or silver, for scraping the body, and corresponding in itspurpose to the rough glove used in the Turkish bath. Thencame the perfumed hot water bath, and after this luxury thebathers returned to the Tepidarium, where their bodies wereanointed with unguents rich and rare, then after leisurelydressing, they would enter the Palæstria to engage in variousexercises to create an appetite for the next meal, or otherwise kill time.At the back of the baths, in the Strada del Lupanare, thereis a small lane called Vicolo del Balcone Pensile, on the rightof which is the House with the Hanging Balcony(Casa del Balcone Pensile) . This is the only case in which asuccessful attempt has been made to restore a house with abalcony to its pristine state. It is evident that such dwellingswere not uncommon in Pompeii. Signor Fiorelli has succeededin this instance with great skill; three rooms of the upper floorbeing preserved, from which the balcony projects several feet into the street. The tourist will be invited to ascend.In the Strada del Lupanare, at the corner of the Vicolo delBalcone Pensile, is the Lupanar, Pompeian brothel. This place is kept locked up. The street derives its name from it. Onthe other side of the street is the House of Siricus, sonamed from an inscription on the outer wall, containing thename of Siricus, and from a seal found is one of the rooms withPOMPEII. 291the letters " Sirici in relief. On the threshold there is aninscription in mosaic, " Salve Lucru." On the left is a roomin which are symbolical representations of the deities. In anadjoining apartment there are some good pictures; namely,Neptune and Apollo presiding at the building of Troy; VulcanPresenting the Arms of Achilles to Thetis; Hercules Intoxi- cated, with Bacchus in the background, " for grace, grandeurof composition, and delicacy and freshness of colouring, amongthe best discovered at Pompeii. " There are various otherpaintings in this house, and traces of many elegant embellish- ments. Close to this house were two taverns, one having thesign of an elephant, and the other serpents. Above the latter isan inscription, " Lingerer depart, this is no place for idlers,"a motto one would like to see over taverns now-a- days.Entering again the Street of Stabiæ, and proceeding north,the tourist will find on the right the House of MarcusLucretius, in which was found a painting and an inscription,indicating that the house belonged to Marcus Lucretius, aFlamen of Mars and Decurio of Pompeii. The inscription wasas follows:-M. Lucretio Flam. Martis Decurioni Pompei.The construction of this house is very curious; the garden,laid out in terraces, being considerably higher than the atrium.In it is a fountain and various statues. Only a few of thepaintings are retained here, the best having been removed to theMuseum. The fountain deserves special attention; it is elaborately ornamented with shell-work and mosaics.In the Street of Stabiæ are several shops. The turning tothe right is the street of Nola, and a walk of five to ten minuteswill bring the tourist to the Gate of Nola, which lies withina passage or covered way built of stout masonry. An Oscaninscription, stating by whom the gate was erected, is on thekeystone of the arch. The tourist whose time is limited neednot visit this gate, as he will see others of greater interest.Turning to the left, he will enter the Street of Fortune, andfind on his right the Casa degli Scienziata, named, as so manyof the houses in Pompeii are, from the presence of those whowitnessed its excavation . On the left hand, just opposite thenarrow lane called Vicolo degla Scienziata, is the House ofthe Chase, so named from a large painting in the peristyle,of a combat with wild beasts . Adjoining this house is theHouse of Ariadne, which extends from the Street of Fortune292 POMPEII.to the Street of the Augustales. The atrium, entered from theStreet of Fortune, is remarkably fine, being 80 feet long by43 feet broad, and adorned with 24 columns. The peristyle iscomposed of 16 columns, the capitals painted with brilliantcolours. In the centre was a fountain. The construction ofthe house is such, that from whichever of the two streets thevisitor entered, he had before him exactly the same view, and around him an identical arrangement of rooms. The house isnamed from a picture representing Ariadne Abandoned.Continuing to explore the Street of Fortune, notice, on theleft, the House of the Grand Duke of Tuscany. Itis small but elegant, and has a mosaic fountain and a representation of Amphion and Dirce. Close to it is the Houseof the Figured Capitals, so named from the capitals at theentrance doorway being sculptured with fauns and bacchantes.Next to this is the House of the Black Walls (Casadella Pareta Nera) , in one of the rooms of which are variousgraceful representations on a black ground. Adjoining this house is the Temple of Fortune. On the architrave of theshrine is an inscription, which has been translated as follows: -"Marcus Tullius, son of Marcus, three times Duumvir for theadministration of justice, Quinquennalis, Augur, and Tribune ofthe soldiers, by election of the people, erected this temple ofFortuna Augusta on his own ground, and at his own expense. "It is approached by a flight of steps. Traces of an iron railingwhich enclosed the temple are visible. The building was 80feet long by 31 feet broad, and the whole was encased in marble.Two statues were found here, one of them resembling Cicero,the illustrious ancestor of the Tullian family.Close to the Temple of Fortune are theOld Public Baths.Entering the spacious court, bounded on two sides bya Doric portico, and on the third by a crypt, there will be seenarranged round the walls the seats where servants sat awaitingthe pleasure of their masters, who sometimes bathed as oftenas seven times a day. Under the portico the bathers waitedtheir turn, and here were exposed public placards of the amusem*nts of the city. It is curious to read an inscription whichwas found on a wall, but has since been effaced, and which has been translated as follows:" At the dedication of the Baths, at the expense of CuacusAlleius Nigidius Maius, there will be a venatio, athletic con-POMPEII. 293tests, sprinkling of perfumes, and awnings. Prosperity to Maius, chief of the colony."Beyond this room is the Frigidarium (or cold bath) , a circular chamber, with niches, in which were seats for the bathers.Two marble steps surround the basin, which is only 12 feet10 inches in diameter, and about 3 feet deep-rather a poorswimming-bath, and one that would find but little patronage among hardy northerners. However, in this the Pompeianreposed, and, after strengthening his frame with cold water,passed through folding doors into the Tepidarium (or warmbath) , a chamber heated by air- pipes and a brazier of bronze.The embellishments in this room are of a very rich character,the vaulting being in stucco relief; the cornice supported bysmall figures of Atlas, made of terra cotta; recesses for theclothes of the bathers. Beyond this room is the Calidarium (orhot-air bath) , its walls being so constructed that a column ofhot air enclosed it on every side; the floor also was hollow, sothat the steam might be distributed from it. The mouldingsin the vault are very rich. At one end of the room there is asemicircular niche, in which is a vase of white marble for washing the face and hands: an inscription states that it was madeat the public expense, by order of the Decurions, and cost 750sestertia (or a sum equal to about £6) . Some read the inscription differently, and make the cost much more considerable.At the other end of the room was the hot sitting-bath. Thesebaths occupied a considerable space, and contained many otherchambers, now inaccessible to the public. The tourist will geta better idea of the old Roman baths from the Stabian Thermæ,described on p. 289, although these are but insignificant incomparison with the Therma of Caracalla, at Rome (p. 114) .Returning to the Street of Fortune, and retracing hissteps past the Temple of Fortune, the tourist will find onthe left the House of the Faun, so named from an elegantbronze statuette of a dancing faun . This house occupies anentire insula that is, the whole space between four streets,and is one of the largest in Pompeii; it measures 280 feet longand 120 feet broad; it was discovered in 1830, in the presenceof Goethe's son. On the pavement in front of the entrance isinscribed the word of greeting, HAVE," in coloured marble.It has two atria, a peristyle, with 28 Doric columns, and a largequadrangular garden with a portico, in which may be seen agreat number of amphora-or wine jars. This has led to thesupposition that the owner was a wine- merchant, and that the"6294 POMPEII.adjacent shops were for his retail trade. Some of the finestmosaics were discovered here; amongst them, the Battle ofIssus, and Acratus on the Panther, both of which are in theMuseum at Naples. In this house was found the skeleton ofa woman, and by her side gold rings, bracelets, and jewels,which she was endeavouring to carry off when the roof gaveway.Near here is the House of the Anchor, so named froma mosaic on the threshold; it is a large house, but inferior tomany already described. At the top of the Strada di Mercuriois a Triumphal Arch, once surmounted by a statue ofNero. The traveller is now in the neighbourhood of somevery remarkable houses, which may be visited in the following order.The House of the Tragic Poet, nearly facing theThermæ, is so named from two pictures discovered in thetablinum, one representing a poet reading, and another therehearsal of his tragedy. Every reader of Bulwer Lytton willtake pleasure in examining the elegant details of this mansionwhich, according to his novel, " The Last Days of Pompeii, " was the house of Glaucus. Its chief treasures have been removed tothe Museum at Naples. In the vestibule was a dog, in mosaic,about to spring upon any intruder; and below, the inscription ,"Cave Canem." If, as has been supposed, the proprietor ofthis house was a jeweller or goldsmith-so many valuabletrinkets and other articles having been found here-the twolarge rooms on either side the vestibule were probably his shops.In the tablinum are mosaics and remarkable ornaments. Theperistyle of seven Doric columns encloses a small court, probably used as a garden. On the left of the peristyle is thelibrary, and a small chamber with Venus and Cupid fishing,and Ariadne Abandoned. In the triclinium (or chamber ofLeda) is a representation of Leda and Tyndareus. An admirable description of this house and its valuable contents has beengiven by Sir W. Gell, in his " Pompeiana.'99The Fullonica (or establishment of the Fullers) comesnext in order; in it were found, illustrated on the walls, thevarious processes in the fuller's trade, which was an importantone, as wool was the only material used for dresses in thosedays. The atrium was probably used as a store-house, theroof being supported by square pillars. The process of cleansing the garments was performed by the feet, the water beingmixed with fuller's earth; four large square vats or tanksPOMPEII. 295occupy the entire end of the court, and in these the clotheswere cleansed. Near here are the houses of the Great andLittle Fountains, in both of which are richly- ornamentedfountains of variegated mosaic.The House of Pansa (so called from the words " Pansamæd," found near the principal entrance) occupies an entireinsula in the centre of the city, and probably belonged to oneof the richest and most distinguished residents in Pompeii.Including the garden, which occupies a third of the wholelength, its area is about 300 feet by 100 feet; part of this,however, was appropriated for shops, as was the custom of theplace.No better idea can be obtained of a handsome mansion ofthat period than that afforded by the House of Pansa.It contains a vestibule; an atrium, with impluvium; the usual wings;open tablinum; peristyle; visitors ' rooms on each side of theatrium; triclinium for winter use; a large triclinium; opencourt, cubicula; a large summer triclinium, opening on to thegarden; kitchen, servants' hall , and two- storied portico. Theperistyle, spacious and elegant, had an arcade of 16 Ioniccolumns around it. In the kitchen were found various utensils,including a frying-pan specially made for cooking eggs. Therewas also found a painting illustrating the art of cookery. Onthe threshold of this house, as of others, was found a mosaic,with the word " Salve."At the back of the four insulæ in which are the houses ofPansa and the Faun, are other four insulæ, which the travellershould next inspect, and will commence at the House of theLabyrinth, at the back (N.) of the House of the Faun,which derives its name from the subject of a mosaic in one of its rooms. The mosaic represents the slaughter of the Minotaur by Theseus, in the Cretan labyrinth. The virgins ofAthens, who were about to become the prey of the monster,are depicted in attitudes expressive of horror and trepidation;while the ground is strewn with bones, the remnants of the former ravages of the Minotaur. The house has two atria, oneTuscan the other tetrastyle, with columns of the Corinthianorder of architecture. In the corridor which leads to the peristyle is a window with six small apertures, or loop-holes. It is constructed of terra- cotta. Among the other objects ofinterest found in this house may be mentioned a bronze bath,which as yet stands unique among the remains of Pompeii;also a large bakehouse. In the garden, the skeleton of a296 POMPEII.woman with her jewels was found at a height of six feet fromthe original level of the house.The House of Castor and Pollux is so called frompaintings of the Dioscuri or Sons of Jupiter, named Castor andPollux, which decorate the vestibule. The house has also beencalled the house of the Quæstor, two large and handsome chests,which were supposed to have contained the revenues, havingbeen found in it. A peristyle connects it with the neighbouringhouse. At its end is a fountain and garden. The peristyle isadorned throughout with pictures. The atrium is about 40feet square, and painted throughout in red and yellow. Amongthe figures on the walls are those of Jupiter, Fortune, andBacchus. The Court of the Piscina, which is entered from theother house, is one of the finest parts of this remarkably preservedbuilding. The subjects of the pictures are Ceres, Apollo, and Saturn. Eight columns of stucco form the colonnade. In thecentre is a piscina or remains of a fountain. Two of the mostbeautiful paintings in Pompeii-Perseus and Andromeda, andMedeameditating the destruction of her children -were depictedon the alæ. The triclinium is the only other noteworthy portion of the house. It opens on the court. The pavements ofthis house consist of a peculiar compound of tile clay and marble,called opus signinum. The adjoining house is called theHouse of the Centaur; it contains little to attract theattention, though the paintings of the legends of Hercules andMeleager were found here, and subsequently removed to theMuseum at Naples. The house itself is in a very dilapidatedcondition, owing to the falling in of the roofs of a number ofvaults under the peristyle.The House of Meleager, or the Nereids, contains oneof the finest peristyles in Pompeii. The freshness of the decorations and the presence of vessels filled with lime in several ofthe rooms indicate that the house was undergoing repairs whenit was entombed. It is paved with opus signinum, and containstwenty-four fine pillars somewhat of the Doric style of architecture; in the centre is a fountain. The apartment is paintedred all round, as are the pillars, to the height of about fourfeet. This peristyle is at the side of the atrium, and not, as ingeneral, at the back. The atrium is also painted red, and agreeswith the general character of the house, by bearing upon itsred walls a number of designs, of which the principal figures areNereids and sea monsters. Hence, one ofthe names ofthe house.The House of Adonis contains a representation ofPOMPEII.. 297Adonis wounded, and tended by Venus, as also the Toilet ofHermaphroditus, attended by two women, one of whom holdsa casket of jewels, and the other a mirror before the face ofHermaphroditus.The House of Apollo derives its name from the numerous representations of that deity found on the walls and insidethe house; one in particular, a bronze statue, has since beenremoved to the Museum at Naples. The walls are paintedwith Bacchanalian and other figures. In the cystus is a largepainting of Ulysses finding Achilles at the court of Lycomedes.This house is remarkable for its peculiarly formed fountain.Passing on to the Strada Consolare, we find the Houseof Julius Polybius, whose name has been found in severalinscriptions. It is paved with mosaic, and is supposed to havebeen very highly decorated, from the remains of gilt stuccowork found in it. Leaving the house of Julius Polybius, thetraveller will observe a small building on the opposite side ofthe Strada Consolare, which has been called the house of theMusician, or Academy of Music, so named from a representation on the walls of musical instruments, including thetrumpet, flute, and various others. There is nothing else ofinterest in this house, and adjoining it is the Baker's shopand bakehouse, the most complete of any of the shops ofthis description yet discovered in Pompeii. It contains a millfor grinding the corn, made of rough stone, and of the shape ofa dice box. In one room a number of bowls were found, whichappear to have been used as kneading troughs. The oven itselfadjoins this room. On either side of the oven is a hole; one wasfor placing the dough in the oven, the other for withdrawing it;above is an aperture for the escape of smoke, and below an ash pit.The House of Sallust. -The atrium of this house iscuriously painted with different shades of the same colour; thepanels are also stuccoed in a curious style. Passing throughthe tablinum from the atrium, the cystus or garden is entered.In this there is a summer triclinium of the kind described bythe younger Pliny, as being attached to his villa. Among theother objects of interest in the house, were found a furnaceand a machine for heating water, which latter has been removed to Naples.The House of the Female Dancers is very beautifully painted with female figures in the act of dancing.The Soap- shop contained beautifully constructed scales ,and was stored with lime of a very pure consistency, for the298 POMPEII.use of the soap manufacturers. The soap vats are placed in an inner room.The Custom House adjoins the soap manufactory, andpossesses little of interest to the traveller, except from the factthat in it many curious scales and an ancient steelyard were discovered.House of the Surgeon. -Here were found a numberof surgical instruments of all kinds, showing that the former inhabitants of this unfortunate town must have been wellversed in this art, as some of the instruments-the probeand forceps, for instance-have not been surpassed by the best of modern inventions. The pictures with which thehouse is adorned are remarkable for their generally studioussubjects, showing the way by which their owner had obtainedhis skill in his profession. One of these figures is peculiarlyinteresting, as giving us an idea of the way in which the papyrus rolls of manuscript were read, that is, from side to side, thecolumns running down the roll from top to bottom of its breadth.The House of the Vestals is remarkable by reason ofa number of cabinets ranged around its atrium; these were used as work-boxes by the occupants.The House of the Three Floors more nearly resembles our modern dwellings, except that the top story is theground floor, and on a level with the street, which contains theatrium, peristyle, and triclinium . The lower story is reachedeither by a stair from the peristyle, or a sloping passage fromthe street, and contains a triclinium and baths; behind is acourt, with piscina. The lowest floor of all seems, from itswretched architectural arrangements, to have been the apart ment of the slaves.The House of Albino, or of the Musician, is socalled from the numerous paintings of musical instruments onthe walls. It seems to have been a double- storied house, butis now in a very dilapidated state.Inside the city, the walls and ramparts were reached by astaircase, wide enough to admit of several men ascendingabreast. The ramparts are formed by two walls, the outerfrom 27 to 34 feet high, and the inner about 7 feet higher.The space between the two walls is filled with earth, andformed a plateau whereon the defenders of the city were marshalled. The wall is 2925 yards in circumference. One ofthese staircases is situated next the Porta di Ercolano, orGate of Herculaneum, which was made with a centre and twoPOMPEII. 299small side entrances. The principal entrance had a space between the portcullis and the inner gate, forming a doubledefence, if the first were forced by assailants, a second stillremained, and the aperture above was used for throwing mis- siles on the heads of the foes. In this manner the defenderswere enabled to do much damage in comparative safety.Passing out of the city by the Gate of Herculaneum, we enterThe Street of the Tombs.To the left is a recess containing seats. The inscription provesit to have been the Tomb of Cerinius Restitutus. Next,and on the same side, is the Tomb of Mamiae, a publicpriestess, as the inscription tells us. First, there is an alcove,which is reached by a step. Behind this is the actual tomb,which contains niches for cinerary urns. From this point alovely view of the surrounding country may be obtained.Farther to the right is a large square pedestal, which probablysupported a bronze statue, for pieces of bronze were found atit* base. Beyond this, and still on the same side, is a largesemicircular seat, called an exedra. It is beautifully decorated,and well preserved. The Tomb of the Garlands, so calledfrom the nature of its decoration, is the next object of interest,and is close at hand. On the opposite side of the way a number of broken columns may be seen. These mark the site ofwhat is known as the Villa of Cicero. To the right are someshops. The most pretentious of these is supposed to have beena hostelry or inn. The tombs on the left side of the street arethose of Servilia and Scaurus, which latter had upon it anumber of bas-reliefs in stucco; these have now, however,disappeared. Next is the Round Tomb, so called from itspeculiar structure. The Tomb of Quietus bears an inscription on it telling that the honour of the bisellium (or seat ofhonour) was conferred upon Caius Calventius Quietus for hismunificence. The tomb is an extraordinary structure, and oneof the most complete and beautiful in the whole street. Thatof Nævoleia Tyche is adjacent, and presents bas-reliefs ofNævoleia, of the dedication of the tomb, and of a Romanvessel; the latter is represented as on a calm ocean, with allsails set, and is supposed to represent the journey of the soul.Lastly, the Funeral Triclinium is reached . This is theplace where feasts were given to the friends of the deceased,on the day of their burial, by their heirs or survivors. To theright is a cluster of tombs, none of which have any special inte-300 POMPEII.rest, except, perhaps, that of the marble door. It stands atthe junction of two roads, and contains a small apartment, withnumerous niches for the reception of urns.The Tomb of Lucius Libella has a very pretty appearance, being built somewhat in the form of an altar. It has nocolumbaria, and is rather singular in this respect.The inscription tells that the tomb was erected by a publicpriestess of the name of ALLEIA- DECIMILLA, on ground givenby the commonwealth, in memory of her husband, LuciusLibella, and her son Alleius Libella. Alleius seems to havebeen a very distinguished young man, as it is recorded that hewas a Decurion of Pompeii at the age of seventeen years.The distinction thus conferred on so young a man seemsalmost to contradict Cicero's reply to the friend who solicitedhis interest to obtain a similar position, " That it was easier tobecome a senator of Rome than a Decurion of Pompeii," butit was doubtless a tribute of public gratitude to his family.The Tomb of Cenis and Labeo shows very little ofits former grandeur, and is indeed so very much deteriorated,that very little of the ornamentation is to be seen at all .The Children's Tombs is a merely complimentarytitle, as no tombs exist. One of the so- called tombs is an urnbearing an inscription, which informs us that it contained theashes of Gratus, who died at the age of twelve, and in anotherplace near, one that says Salvius, a boy, died at the age of six .The Tombs of the Arria Family record the deathsand descriptions of Marcus, Arrius, Diomedes, and their families,Romans, to whom the adjoining villa belonged from time to time.The Villa of Diomedes seems to have been the onlydwelling-house of any one of note in this street devoted tothe emblems and receptacles of the dead. Diomedes also hadhis mausoleum very close to him; the tomb on the opposite side of the way bears his name. Below the villa is a curiousvaulted chamber, wherein a number of dead bodies were found.The ill- fated inhabitants, in their last extremity, must haverushed below for protection. But the openings of the roofadmitted the fine dust and cinders, and Diomedes and hisfamily were overwhelmed with the rest of Pompeii.Gates, Streets, and Walls.The Gates of Pompeii are eight in number, and some ofthem of peculiar construction. The Gate of Herculaneum, orPOMPEII.301Porta di Ercolano, faces the road leading from Pompeii to HerIculaneum; the Porta della Marina, or sea gate, spans the roadwhich leads to the sea. The others are of less note, both topographically and architecturally; they are the Porta di Nola atthe end of the street of Nola, the Porta di Sarno in the partof the town least touched by excavators, and the Porta dellVesuvio, leading in the direction of Vesuvius, a gate on the wayto Capua, and one towards Stabiæ, with the gate of the theatres.The gates which are most perfect are the first three, namely,those of Herculaneum, Nola, and the Sea; all the rest havesuffered more or less from the ravages of time.The Streets of Pompeii are for the most part narrow andirregular, although there are a few better constructed than therest, which form the main arteries for traffic. It would notbe possible for more than one vehicle of the narrowest kind todrive along them, and this would seem to indicate that thecommercial activity of Pompeii was never very great. Themarks of chariot wheels are still to be seen on the rough blocksof lava which form the pavement of the roadway; in somestreets there are regular ruts, while in others, the marks cross and recross in various ways. On either side of most of thestreets, are footways, in some instances raised so high above theroad, as almost to suggest that streets were used as channels for the rain, etc. But so far from this being the case, it hasbeen discovered that the sewerage system of Pompeii was perfect, many of its ramifications under different streets havingbeen unearthed. The water of Pompeii was brought from theSarno by an aqueduct.Men of ancient times would seem to have been quite asmuch moved by public elections as men of the present. Forin many of the streets inscriptions in the red paint, so commonto Pompeii, call upon the citizens to vote for such and such aperson, as Edile for his native town, and the contest seemsvery often to have been keen, for the inscriptions tabulate allthe virtues of the candidate, and the deeds which should entitlehim to the suffrages of the citizens. In one respect, the ancientswere superior to the burgesses of the present day; they did notthink it necessary to call attention in their election placards tothe weaknesses, fancied or real, of their opponents.The chief streets areThe Domitiana or Consolare, leading from the Forum tothe Gate of Herculaneum, receiving smaller streets on either side.302 NAPLES TO EBOLI.The Strada dell' Abbondanza , or Street of Abundance, whichleads from the Forum to the Gate of Sarno.The Street of Nola extends into the Street of Fortune, andof the Baths, and leads in a direct line from the Gate of Nola tothe Forum.The Street of the Forum, in a line with the Street of Mercury, leading from the Forum to the city walls.The Walls were the chief fortification of Pompeii, and werewell and carefully built; although the stones were not cementedin any way. Their construction was peculiar, and consisted oftwo parts-the outer wall was about 25 feet high, and the innerabout 30; between these two walls ran a rampart, about 15 feetin width, upon which the defenders stood. On the city side,the walls were strengthened by an agger, or inclined buttress,which was carved in some parts into steps, wide enough to admit the passage of large bodies of men. At different stagesalong the walls are traces of towers.In the Museums-the one near the Porta della Marina isof recent formation-will be found a variety of articles takenfrom the houses at different times during the excavations.Among them are jewellery, carvings, household utensils, surgical instruments, tools, vases, cups, masks, clocks, pastry- moulds,theatre tickets, etc., etc. Astrange interest will attach to theexamination of these articles, as they bring vividly to mind thedwellers in the houses which have been examined by the visitors. And a mournful interest will attach to the few ghastlyfigures, casts of skeletons and bodies, found among the ruins.NAPLES TO EBOLI AND TORREMARE.(By Rail 49 miles. )Stations from Naples to Pompeii-Portici, Resina, Torre delGreco, and Torre Annunziata, Pompeii.On leaving Pompeii, the line crosses the plain of the Sarnoto Scafati (festival of S. Maria del Bagno, August 15) . Angri,near which the Goths were finally vanquished by Narses, 553 A.D. Pagani, with Church of S. Michell, and body of S.Alphonso di Liguori (founder of the Redemptorists) under aglass case, are passed in succession.Nocera (population , 19,000) was the birthplace of Hugode Pagani (founder ofthe Templars) , and of the painter Solimena.The chief feature of interest is the Castello in Parco, orSALERNO. 303citadel, where Sybilla, widow of Manfred, and her son Manfredetto died in prison, after the battle of Benevento. Many historical events are connected with this edifice. LeavingNocera, we soon pass on the right the ancient church of S.Maria Maggiore, with antique columns, etc. , and 14thcentury frescoes. It was originally a temple. After passing S. Clemente, we soon reachLa Cava, a justly celebrated summer and autumn retreat ,with delightful neighbourhood, whose charms are said to haveoften inspired the pencil of Salvator Rosa. A lovely walkthrough the woods, or a drive by the carriage road, conductsto Corpo di Cava, where there is an interesting monastery;the church, the tombs, and the library, especially the archives,are all worthy of careful notice.From La Cava the line passes through a charming district,of which the author of " Pictures in Italy," says: " The railroadas far as Vietri winds along a valley, from which the mountains rise in grand and massive forms. A rapid stream, havinginnumerable water-mills, gives vivacity to the scene. A richsemi-tropical vegetation extends far up the mountain sides. Theinhabitants, as yet little affected by the tide of tourists whichthe railway brings, retain their old usages and old costumes almostunchanged. Here, as throughout the Maremma, labourersfrom the Abruzzi may be seen celebrating the ingathering ofthe harvest, with songs and dances which have come downfrom a remote antiquity, and bear unmistakable traces of thePagan festivities in honour of Bacchus and Ceres."After passing Vietri, a picturesque town, the railway soondescends toSALERNO.Population about 30,000. (Hotel -See Appendix. )Salerno is beautifully situated on a lovely bay, its principalstreets running parallel to its crescent- shaped beach. The old town gradually rises on the slopes of a spur of the Apennines,from the summit of which frown the ruins of the ancientCitadel, besieged for eight months by Robert Guiscard.Salerno (anc. Salernum) was celebrated by the Latin poets,for the charms of its situation . In the middle ages, it was animportant town, and experienced varied fortunes as successiveLombard, Norman, Suabian, or other princes possessed it. Its chief medieval fame rests on its noted university, which forcenturies was the head-quarters of the medical knowledge304 NAPLES TO EBOLI.the period. In Longfellow's " Golden Legend, " some graphicpictures are given of the Salernitan Schools.The Cathedral ( S. Matteo) was built by Robert Guiscardin 1084, and Pæstum ( see p. 306) was rifled of works of art to embellish it. It was restored in 1768, greatly to the detrimentof its original simple grandeur. The quadrangle in frontcontains 28 ancient columns, and 14 tombs formed of ancientsarcophagi. The Bronze doors ( 1099) , executed at Constantinople, and presented by Landolfo Butromile, were originally inlaid with silver.In the Nave are two ambos or lecterns, an archbishop'schair, richly decorated with mosaics. Marble columns fromPæstum. Tomb of Margaret of Anjou (Queen of CharlesDurazzo). In a chapel to the right of the high altar is theTomb of Hildebrand ( Gregory VII . ) , who died in exile atSalerno in 1085. Various Pagan sarcophagi have been placedin this church and used for Christian interment. On the altarof the Sacristy is a curious piece of work, comprising fifty- four Bible subjects, carved in ivory, about 1200 A.D. TheCrypt contains interesting tombs, and is richly decorated withmosaics, etc.The Campanile has two stories left, dating from 1130 A.D. , the rest more modern.The railway from Salerno passes Pontecagnano, Belizzi, andBattipaglia to Eboli. The latter town commands fine landand sea views.After leaving Eboli the railway runs due east past thestations of Pontesele, Contursi, Sicignano, Buccino, PonteSan Cono, Romagnano, Balvano, and Bella Muro, to Baragiano,Muro Lucano (8000 inhabitants) , through a romantic country toPOTENZA.(Population about 19,000) , capital of the province of Potenza.It lies on the crest of a hill above the river Basento, which rises in the neighbourhood, and falls into the Gulf of Taranto. Theancient Potentia of the Romans, which gave its name to thetown, lay in a plain lower down until destroyed. Potenzasuffered severely by the earthquake of 1857. The greater partof the town was overthrown, many persons were killed, and itis said that over 4000 were so injured as to be forced to submitto amputation. All along the neighbouring villages similarAMALFI. 305disasters occurred. It is said that no less than 32,000 liveswere lost.The following excursions may be made:--From Potenza to Melfi (9 hours by diligence) , and thence toAscoli, where the train may be taken for Foggia.From Potenza to Acerenza, by diligence in three hours toPietra Gatta, and thence one hour on foot. Acerenza is identicalwith the Acherontia of Horace. It is finely situated, and hasan interesting Cathedral.From Potenza to Grumo, by Montepeloso and Gravina.There is no diligence over this road. (See p. 318. )From Potenza to Metaponto,66 miles, by Calisano (6000 inhabitants) , Grassano, Salandra,Grottole, Ferrandino, and Bernalda, a town of 6500 inhabitants.The country is very picturesque, and after passing a greatmany tunnels, the train reaches Metaponto, junction forTaranto, Bari, Brindisi, and Reggio.AMALFI(population, 7500) can be reached by several routes; amongstothers from Sorrento ( 5 hours) , by footpath to Scaricatojo, andthence by boat. From Castellamare (7 hours) by the little S.Angelo, rough and picturesque. The most frequented route isby carriage or boat from Salerno. The cliff-road from Salernoby Maiori, Minori, and Atrani offers great attractions; thelandscapes and sea views are charming.Amalfi stands on a rocky eminence, at the entrance of awild ravine, in the midst of the most picturesque scenery.Wild precipices form a striking background to the romanticlooking town. Amalfi is the traditional birthplace of FlavioGioja, the alleged inventor of the Mariner's Compass. Thetown is of medieval origin; it was long an independent stateunder its own doge. It now numbers little more than a titheof its ancient population.The following are the chief features of interest: -Cattedrale S. Andrea, 11th century. Byzantine bronze doors.Interior, with marble columns, mosaics, etc. Font, anancient porphyry vase. Ancient columns, sarcophagi, etc. Inthe Crypt is the body of S. Andrew, from which the celebrated Manna di S. Andrea is said to exude.Colossal Bronze Statue of S. Andrew Michael Angelo Naccarino.Altar, designed byHandsome Bell- tower ( 1276) .Domenico Fontana.20306 PESTUM.Convent of the Cappuccini, now Hotel Cappuccini.-Cloisters, arcades, and adjacent grotto are interesting. Manyvery pleasant excursions may be made from Amalfi, either withboats or donkeys, or on foot . Ravello, with its Cathedral,should be visited , if time allows. It can be reached on foot inabout 1 hour, or donkeys can be hired for 2 francs for thejourney.PÆSTUMcan now be visited by rail. Special excursions are arrangedweekly from Cook's Office, Largo Vittoria, Naples.Pæstum (anc. Poscidonia) , was founded by the Greeksabout 600 B.C. , and became a Roman colony 273 B.C. It wasdevastated by the Saracens in the ninth century, and despoiled ofits sculptures, etc. , by Robert Guiscard, in the eleventh. Themajestic ruins are now the sole attractions of the place.Wild vegetation, stagnant water, and malaria characterize thedistrict, which is, moreover, infested by snakes and scorpions.The ruins consist of ancient travertine Town Walls,three miles in circumference; remains of Aqueduct andGates; Tombs, from which many objects have been transferred to the Naples Museum; a Temple of Neptune(66 yards by 26 yards) , with 36 columns; the so-calledBasilica, 50 columns; a Temple of Ceres, with 34columns; a few fragments of a Theatre, Amphitheatre,and Roman Temple. A walk along the town walls presentsfine views of these imposing ruins. The roses of Pæstum, thatflowered twice a year, as Latin poets sing, are no more; intheir place a luxuriant growth of fern and acanthus surroundsthese massive memorials of Greek art. Many travellers havewritten enthusiastically of the ruins of Pæstum." Taking into view their immemorial antiquity, theirastonishing preservation, their grandeur, their bold columnarelevation, at once massive and open, their severe simplicity ofdesign that simplicity in which art generally begins, and towhich, after a thousand revolutions of ornament, it again re- turns-taking, I say, all into one view, I do not hesitate tocall these the most impressive monuments that I ever beheld on earth. "-Forsyth.99 A recent writer in the " Saturday Review says:-" Few buildings are more familiar than the temples of Pastum; yet the moment when the traveller first comes in sight of works of untouched Hellenic skill is one which is simply over-CASTELLAMARE. 307whelming. Suddenly, by the side of a dreary road, in a spotbacked, indeed, by noble mountains, but having no charm ofits own, we come on these works, unrivalled on our side of theHadriatic and the Messinian Straits, standing in all their solitary grandeur, shattered indeed, but far more perfect than the mass of ruined buildings of later days. . . There is the trueDoric in its earliest form, in all its unmixed and simple majesty.The ground is strewn with shells, and covered with acanthusleaves; but no shell had suggested the Ionic volute, no acanthusleaf had suggested the Corinthian foliage. The vast columns,with their sudden tapering, the overhanging capitals, the stern,square abacus, all betoken the infancy of art. But it is aninfancy like that of their own Herakles; the strength whichclutched the serpent is there in every stone. Later improvements, the improvements of Athenian skill, have added grace;but for the sense of power, of simplicity without rudeness,Poscidonia holds its own."CASTELLAMARE.(Hotel. See Appendix. )From Torre Annunziata (see p. 266) a short railway journeyconducts to Castellamare, crossing the mouth of the Sarno,and passing on the right the rocky island of Revigliano, with its ancient fort.Castellamare (population about 27,000) is built on a slopeof the Monte d'Auro, a spur of the range known as Monte S.Angelo. It stands on the site of the ancient Stabia, which wasdestroyed in the eruption of 79 A.D. , wherein Pliny the Elderwas suffocated. The town offers a cool and delightful retreatin hot weather; it is sheltered from the east winds in winter;abounds in mineral waters efficacious in gout, rheumatism, andparalysis; is surrounded with suburbs of unrivalled beauty, andcommands views which generations of artists have in vainstriven to reproduce on canvas.The town consists of two main streets running parallel withthe coast for about a mile. On a hill to the south is the ruinedcastle which gives its name to the town. This fort, built bythe Emperor Frederick II . ( 13th century) was afterwardsstrengthened by Charles I. and Alfonso I. The quay and theport are generally thronged by busy traders and workmen. Theport has an arsenal and dockyard, where some of the ships ofthe Italian navy are built.308 SORRENTO.Castellamare owes its chief reputation to its chalybeatesprings, which flow from the base of Monte d'Auro, and havebeen for centuries regarded as valuable remedies in cases ofgout, rheumatism, and paralysis. Analyses of twelve differentsprings have been made, and their various properties are recorded for the benefit of visitors.The neighbourhood is extremely beautiful, and affordsdelightful excursions either on foot or on donkey-back. Thefollowing are the most interesting:-To the Chateau or Casino Quisisana, built in the 14thcentury by Charles II. of Anjou. Permission to view theinterior must be obtained at the Palazzo Reale, Naples. Theview from the terrace is fine, and the gardens are well worthseeing. The Bosco, or Park, is open free to the public. Thetraveller may return to Castellamare by the Monastery ofS. Maria a Puzzano, founded by Gonsalvo de Cordova.To Gragnano (about half an hour) , a town of about 12,000inhabitants, noted for its wine and for its manufactory of macaroni.To Lettere, about 3 miles further, beautifully situated ona slope ofthe mountains, and commanding splendid views.To Monte S. Angelo, a journey of 8 hours. Thehighest point, 4722 feet above the sea, commands magnificentviews of the bays of Naples, Gaeta, and Salerno. A guide isnecessary, and can be hired, with donkey, for 5 francs. Thetourist should ask to be conducted to the peak crowned by thechapel, or he will be taken to another point where the view isinterrupted.The road from Castellamare to Sorrento ( 10 miles) is oneof the most picturesque in the district. It passes Vico,Equense, Meta, the village of Carotto, Pozzopiano, surrounded by orange gardens, and S. Agnetto.SORRENTO,( Hotel. See Appendix) ,(population, 7500), has attractions similar to those of Castellamare, and some peculiarly its own. Deep ravines border it onthree sides, and on the fourth a deep precipice rising out of the sea. The walks in these ravines are charming, especially inhe evening, when they have such a weirdness and gloominess ,it the people light the lamps in the oratories perched on theks, to keep away hobgoblins and foul fiends.CAPRI. 309Sorrento is a good stopping place. Hotels and lodginghouses are numerous; fish, fruit, wine, dairy produce, etc. ,plentiful and good; the neighbourhood replete with delightfulexcursions. Carriages, horses, donkeys, boats, etc. , are providedfor visitors, according to specified tariffs.Sorrento possesses in itself few antiquities or objects of interest. It was the birthplace of the poet Tasso, and theHotel Tasso contains the room in which he laboured. Hisstatue stands in the Piazza del Castello. The Cathedralis on the site of an ancient temple, of which two marble pillarssupport a canopy in the nave. La Sedile is a Museum, withRoman bas- reliefs , etc.Amongst the excursions which may be made from Sorrentomay be noted the following: to Capo di Sorrento ( 1½ m. ) ,with Roman remains, etc.; Deserto, with monastery (fineviews from the roof); and then by S. Agata, the Telegrafodi Mare Cuccola, and Sopra la Vaccina, to the Piccolo S. Angelo, descending onthe east of Sorrento, six hours in all.Donkeys, 5 to 6 fr. S. Maria a Castello is visited by many on August 15, to see the magical effect of Positano lit up for itsfête. Numerous other walks, excursions, etc. , will easily be discovered by inquiry.At Sorrento the steamer can be taken for Capri; in goodweather the journey occupies about one hour.CAPRI.(Hotel. See Appendix. )The island of Capri consists of little else than a wild andrugged mass of rock standing in the sea of stern and forbiddingaspect. The village itself is like a village of Syria, the roofs ofthe houses being flat or domed, and essentially Oriental. Theinhabitants wear the most picturesque of costumes, and are thepleasantest of village folks. Artists flock here every year, andfind fresh scenes in abundance. The wild, precipitous cliffsremind one of Norway; the village reminds one of Egypt andSyria; the patches of luxuriant vegetation in the midst ofrugged rocks remind one of the Isles of Greece; and yet Capriis unlike all other places- it is Capri.The ascent from the landing- places is very steep, and isgenerally made in the saddle; donkeys can be obtained on the beach. Masses of ruins crown the hills, which rise upon everyside steep and conical.310 NAPLES TO AVELLINO.The traveller should wander amongst the ruins of thetwelve palaces built by Tiberius, and dedicated to thetwelve deities, and look from these heights at the glorious viewsaround-the deep blue waters below, the islands in the distanceacross the bay, the mountains on the right, etc. The studentwill be interested in Capri, from its associations with Augustusand Tiberius. With the latter, this island was a constant andfavourite retreat; here he ruled the great Roman Empire;"here he committed, or ordered, some of the most atrociousof his cruelties; here he wrote the ' verbose and grand epistleto the Senate at Rome, immortalized in its infamy by Juvenal;here the arbiter of the fate of millions trembled in his old ageat what might be his own destiny, and sat on the ' august rockof Capreæ,' with a Chaldean band, to consult the stars."A night should be spent at Capri, and in the morning the traveller should visit the Blue Grotto (Grotto Azzurra) .This natural curiosity is alone worth the journey to the island;but it can only be entered when the sea is calm, and even thenthe adventurer must lie flat in the boat, or he will get theworst of it as the low rocky arch is entered. On rising, hefinds himself in fairyland. The walls and roof are all radiantwith precious stones of a clear, rich blue, not seen to perfectionuntil nearly half-an-hour has passed, but every moment becoming more radiant. The hand, or any object, placed in the water,seems as if silvered over. "Throw a stone into the water, 'says a writer, " and the myriad of tiny bubbles that are createdflash out a brilliant glare like blue theatrical fires. Dip an oar,and its blade turns to a splendid, frosted silver, tinted with blue.Let a man jump in, and he is instantly cased in an armour moregorgeous than ever kingly Crusader wore. """On the south side of the island may be seen the Passagioe Grotta Verde (Green Passage and Grotto) , from the colourrefracted by the sea, but they are greatly inferior in beauty tothe Blue Grotto.From Capri the traveller, if so minded, can return direct toNaples by steamer or sailing boat, 15 miles, and enjoy theexquisite panorama of the shores of the bay.NAPLES TO NOLA AND AVELLINO,Naples to Cancello (see p. 170).From Cancello, a branch conducts to Nola.This town isnoted in history for its successful resistance to Hannibal afterCannæ (p. 313) . The Emperors Octavius and Augustus bothNAPLES TO AVELLINO. 311died here, Tacitus says, in the same room. Here church bellswere invented by Paulinus (poet, bishop, and saint) , in the 5thcentury: There is an annual festival in his honour, with games,processions, etc., July 26th. Giordano Bruno (a free- thinker,burnt at Rome, 1600) was born at this town; also the sculptor,Giovanni da Nola, A.D. 1478.Nola will be familiar to visitors to the Naples and othermuseums as having furnished a large supply of the beautifulblack glazed vases, ornamented with red figures, known asNolano- Egyptian. An immense quantity of Greek coins havebeen found here.The Seminary (with Museum) contains the remarkableOscan inscription, known as the Cippus Abellanus, with otherobjects of interest. Monte Cicula presents interestinggeological features. Cimitile ( 1 mile) has several churcheswith tombs, catacombs, crypts, etc. , some 8th century sculptures, and 14th century paintings in the Church of S. Felix .After leaving Nola the following towns are passed: Palma,in a picturesque situation, with ancient castle; Sarno, on theSarno river; ruined castle, often sketched by artists; the stronghold of Count Francesco Coppola against Ferdinand of Arragon( 1460); Church of S. Maria della Foce, with tomb of theson- in- law of Tancred, Walter de Brienne.Passing the stations of Codola and San Giorgio, we reachSanseverino Stat. Church of S. Antonio, with tombs ofTommaso da Sanseverino, High Constable of Naples in 1353 ,and several princes of Salerno. A road ( 10 miles) runs toSalerno, passing Baronisi, the scene of the death of FraDiavolo.At Laura a carriage can be taken for the journey to Avellino,through the mountains, a distance of 5 miles, which occupiesI hours.Avellino (anc. Abellinum, with ruins, 2 miles distant) .(Population, 20,000. ) In the vicinity are extensive plantations of haz 1 and filbert, which are supposed to have giventheir name to the town ( Latin, Nux Avellana, French, Aveline) .From Avellino, the celebrated shrine on Monte Vergine(see p. 246) may be visited. Route 4 miles to Mercogliano,thence by a footpath ( 1 hour) to the shrine, or beyond to thesummit (4292 feet) , with splendid views of Bay of Naples, etc.The convent was founded 1119, on ruins of a temple of Cybele.Its Church of S. Guglielmo has a miraculous image of theVirgin, also the following interesting monuments: Tomb of312 FOGGIA TO BRINDISI.Catherine of Valois, and her son, Louis of Taranto; a Romansarcophagus supporting the effigies. Chapel and Tomb erectedfor himself by King Manfred, given after the battle of Benevento, by Charles of Anjou, to one of his French followers. Atthe top of the mountain is the Loreto or Ospizio, the homeof the Abbot and older monks. Here are the Archives, nownational property, a large collection of Papal bulls, and variousMSS. relating to Medieval Italy.For return journey the tourist may take a carriage fromMercogliano, by a picturesque route to Nola, and then takethe train to Naples, instead of returning to Avellino.FOGGIA TO BRINDISI AND OTRANTO.(199 miles. )The whole route is traversed once daily in 13 hours; trainsmore frequently to Bari and Brindisi.right. Fine viewsAfter leaving Foggia, we traverse the grassy plain and cross the Cervaro. The extinct volcano Monte Vulture (the Apulian Vultur' of Horace) is visible to the S. Pass the Church ofMadonna dell ' Incoronata, with its miraculous picture of theVirgin, said to have been found in a tree. Cross the Carapella.Orta Nova station . Town of Orta on theof Ordona and Ascoli. Cerignola station. Town of 25,000inhabitants in the midst of a highly cultivated, but utterly treeless plain. The Spanish supremacy in South Italy was decisively established in 1503 , by a battle fought near Cerignola in which Gonsalvo de Cordova defeated the Duke de Nemours.Cotton plantations commence here. We next pass Trinitapoli,near the Lake of Salpi, and cross the Ofanto (anc. Aufidus) andreach Barletta . (Population, 28,000. )Barletta is a picturesquely situated seaport town, witha harbour and mole, walls and towers, and many well- builthouses and churches. In 1259, in honour of a visit from the lastLatin Emperor of Constantinople, Baldwin II . , the first tournament seen in this part of Europe was held by Tancred . In 1503, during the war between Ferdinand the Catholic andLouis XII. , Barletta was besieged by the Duc de Nemours,and defended by Gonsalvo de Cordova. During the siege acombat took place (under the conduct of Colonna and Bayard,sans peur et sans réproche ") between thirteen knights fromside. Although six French knights fell at the first charge,FOGGIA TO BRINDISI. 313the contest, after six hours' conflict, ended in a drawn battle.The following are the principal buildings in Barletta:-

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The Fortress, or Castello, formerly one of the three strongest in Italy, built in the time of Charles V. TheCathedral of S. Maria Maggiore, with lofty steeple andelegant façade, tombs, etc. The Churches of S. Andreaand S. Trinita, with several ancient pictures. A ColossalBronze Statue of Emperor Heraclius or Theodosius, found in the sea, stands in the market place. The Della Marrapalace, with fine façade, etc.From Barletta an excursion can be made to Canosa (anc.Canusium) , (tri- weekly diligence, 2 hours, 2 fr. ) . The town is14 miles from the shore, on an eminence, commanded by aruined castle . At Canusium, Horace found the bread verygritty, from the use of soft mill-stones, a circ*mstance noticed by travellers to this day. Church of S. Sabinus withclusters of mosque- like cupolas. Ancient pulpit; marble chairon roughly-sculptured elephants; granite and verd-antique columns, etc. In an adjacent court is the white marble tombof one of Tasso's heroes, Bohemond, son of Robert Guiscard,who died III A.D. Ruins of an amphitheatre, triumphal arch,and other Roman relics exist in Canosa. Numerous goldtrinkets, painted vases, etc. , have been found in ancient tombs.The visitor will notice the extensive olive plantations of thesurrounding district. Excellent wine is produced here, andindeed throughout the Apulian Peninsula .The ruins of Cannæ are 6 miles N. of Canosa. Hard byis the celebrated battle- field , where Hannibal defeated theRomans in B.C. 216, and which was subsequently two or threetimes the scene of medieval conflicts. The town was destroyedby Robert Guiscard in 1083 .To Andria, 71 miles from Barletta, a diligence runs twicedaily in 1 hour (fare fr. ) The population is 34,000. Thetown was a favourite residence of the Emperor Frederick II.His second wife, Yolanda (who died here in childbed) , and histhird wife, Isabella of England, are both buried in the Cathedral.Porta S. Andrea, with inscription, and Church of S.Agostino, are worthy of notice.Amongst other places which may be visited by the leisurelytourist, either from Barletta, or the immediately succeedingstations, are Castle del Monte, erected by Robert Guiscard,the favourite hunting seat of Frederick II . , and the prison of Manfred's wife and children after the battle of Benevento, now314 FOGGIA TO BRINDISI.a splendid ruin, with glorious prospects of sea and land .Ruvo, noted for its large vases, etc. (see Naples Museum,p. 209) . Its Cathedral is covered on the W. front with figures ofanimals. Important tombs and private collections can be seenhere. Terlizzi, with collections of pictures of the Paù family,contains specimens of Perugino, Spagnoletto, Domenichino,Titian, Salvator Rosa, etc. Bitonto, with handsome church(17th century tombs) , and a Loggia with busts and sculptures,etc. Also an extensive oil factory. For these excursions, whichcan of course be combined or varied at the tourist's convenience,the local sciarriala (light two- wheeled cars) can be hired for6 to 7 fr. per day, or more expensive conveyances if needed.From Barletta the train passes through a lovely district, withthe vine, the olive, and the almond tree in rich abundance.Trani is next reached, a walled town of Venetian origin, with a harbour now much blocked up with mud. It was at onetime a Crusading starting- point. The Cathedral meritsattention; steeple 260 feet; bronze doors by Barisanus, ofTrani; beautiful crypt. Villa, or public garden on the coastwith pleasant walks.Bisceglie. (Population, 21,000. ) A fortified town withhandsome villas. Produces currants rivalling those of theIonian Islands. Ruins of Bohemond's Hospital for pilgrims tothe Holy Land. Molfetta (27,000 inhabitants) , once incommercial league with Amalfi. Castle, in which, after deathof Joanna I., her husband, Otho, was confined till released in1384 by Charles Durazzo. The Pulo di Molfetta, a remarkablenitre cavern, is 1 mile from the town. Giovinasso, with itsOspizio, founded by Ferdinand I. , containing 500 children, whoare maintained and educated, and a reformatory for criminalyouths. San Spirito Bitonto, and then Bari.The station of Bari is at the junction of the branch line toTaranto (see p. 318) . The town (population, 50,000) is athriving seaport on a small peninsula, and enjoys an extensivetrade. An improved harbour is being constructed to replace the inadequate one between the two moles. There is a handsome Corso, and the new suburb ( Borgo) consists ofregularly-built broad streets, with many good houses.Bari, or rather the ancient Barium, was probably a Greekcolony before the Roman conquest of Apulia. It was one ofthe first Christian bishoprics. Its strong fortifications procuredfor it great notoriety and a very chequered history during thetroubles of the middle ages. Lombards, Saracens, Greeks,BRINDISI. 315Normans, Spaniards, etc., etc. , all seem to have taken theirturn in attacking or defending Bari. It was for some timean independent Duchy, but was ultimately united with theKingdom of Naples, whose fortunes it has since shared.Priory of S. Nicholas, erected to receive the saint'srelics from Myra in Lycia, in 1087. Romanesque Church,with painted ceiling, etc. Campanile at north-west corner,with archway over street. Inside the church are—Madonna, with four saints . · · Bartolommeo Vivarini.Painting on gold ground, in Chap. S. Martin "Martyrdom of S. Lorenzo, in Chapel.Tomb of Bona Sforza, Dowager Queen of Poland; the Queenin prayer, in white marble, on a black marble sarcophagus.Other tombs, saints, coronation- chairs, etc.In the Crypt is the Tomb of S. Nicholas, from which issaid to exude the miraculous Manna di S. Nicolò di Bari, muchreputed (especially in Russia) as a panacea in sickness. Thehigh altar shows the saint's history in silver bas-reliefs. Crowdsof pilgrims throng hither at the saint's festival in May.Cathedral of S. Sabinus (much modernized in 1745)contains a painting by Tintoretto, another by Paul Veronese, and two in the apse by Mattia Preti; a silver bust of S. Sabinusover his remains in the Crypt; also the Madonna di Constantinopoli, a Byzantine painting. There is a lofty Campanile,resembling the Moorish tower of Seville, Statue of S. Sabinus on granite column in adjacent courtyard.Church of S. Maria del Buon Consiglio; picture byPietro da Cortona. Church of the Capuchins; the Invention of the Cross (attributed ) Paul Veronese. Church of S.Giacomo; S. Benedict and Nativity, by Ludovico Vaccaro,and Beato Bernardo Tolomei and S. Giacomo, by De Matteis.The Ancona and Naples steamers call at Bari weekly.From Bari we proceed by rail to Noicataro, then to Moladi Bari, Polignano à Mare (with curious large cavern by thesea), Monopoli (Cathedral, with a Saint Sebastian, by PalmaVecchio), Fasano, Ostuni, Caravigno, S. Vita d' Otranto, and Brindisi.BRINDISI.(Hotel. See Appendix. )Brindisi is a walled town of about 16,000 inhabitants, increasing in importance, as affording the shortest sea voyage to the East.316 BRINDISI.The ancient colony of Brundusium (i.e. , stag's-head, alludingto the form of the harbour) was originally a Tarentine colony,and became Roman B.C. 245. Soon afterwards the celebratedVia Appia, commencing at Capua was completed to this point,and Brundusium became the chief Adriatic station of theRoman fleet, and the point of departure for Greece and the East. Hither, in B.C. 37, came Horace and Mæcenas, etc. (inthat celebrated journey described by the former) , to witness aleague between Octavianus and Antony. Here the tragic poetPacovius was born; and here, on his return from Greece inB.C. 19, the poet Virgil died. In Brundusium Pompey sustaineda siege by Julius Cæsar, the latter constructing dykes which have been obstructions ever since. In medieval times thecrusading fleets often assembled in this harbour, and set sailfrom hence on their expeditions to the East. In Brundusium,Tancred, with princely " pomp and circ*mstance," married hisson Roger to Irene, daughter of the Greek Emperor. In 1348,Louis, King of Hungary, sacked and destroyed the city; and in1456 a fearful earthquake buried most of the inhabitants inheaps of ruins. For centuries the town became a prey to wantand misery; the harbour was choked up, the district infested bymalaria, and various attempts to revive the place were fruitless,till modern commerce found the place essential to its needs, andBrindisi bids fair to resume its old importance as a Gate of the East.The harbour of Brindisi is well sheltered, and now so muchimproved, that the mail steamers can lie along the quays.A mole, breakwater, new quays, and various extensive im- provements, have been effected . The accumulation of sandhas been provided against, and the north arm of the harbour,a muddy source of malaria, dried up. From the quays thePeninsula and Oriental Company's steamers run to Alexandria (in about seventy-two hours) weekly; also to Venice.The Austrian Lloyds and Italian steamers leave weekly forCorfu, Turkey, Syria, etc. , and also for several Italian ports;and packets of other companies call in passing. Brindisi is nowwithin fifty-four hours' distance of London, being less than thetime in which, by any means at their disposal, Horace and hisnds could have got there from Rome.otwithstanding the improvement in the harbour, and then of traffic pouring through it, the local trade has scarcelysed in proportion. One or two new streets have beenBRINDISI TO OTRANTO. 317Brindisi possesses few objects of interest to delay thetourist. A prominent object is the Marble ColumnbytheQuay, 50 feet high, with figures of gods, and an eleventh century inscription, probably part of a pagan temple. The Castello, founded by Frederick II. , and strengthened by Charles V. ,now prison of S. Giovanni. Ruins of Church of S. Giovanni, destroyed by earthquakes. Cathedral (much damaged) , where Frederick II . married Yolanda, in 1225. Ruinsof house where Virgil died (very doubtful) . Churchof Santa Maria del Casale ( 1 mile N.N.W.) , ingood condition, architecture peculiar. Public Library,founded by Archbishop di Leo, including a collection of coins,bronzes, etc.BRINDISI TO OTRANTO.The railway passes successively Tuturano, S. Pietro Vernotico, Squinzano, and Trepuzzi, to Lecce (anc. Lupia) . Popu- lation, 23,000. A flourishing trading town. Several handsomeRenaissance buildings. The Prefetura (once a convent) ,with adjacent interesting church; Cathedral of S. Orontius;Church of S. Nicola a Catoldo, built by Tancred, eleventhcentury; Botanic Garden; Public Promenade (Villa);Castello di S. Cataldo (6 m. ) , a favourite excursion place;Rugge (1 m. ), supposed anc. Rudia, birthplace of Eunius(B.C. 239) , the father of Latin poetry.From Lecce either by Nardo, once famous for its Greekschools (Cathedral, with paintings by Luca Giordano and Solimena; Library, with medieval MSS. , etc.) , or by Galatina ,a well-built town, with interesting church and monastery, withtombs, frescoes, etc.-a visit can be paid to Gallipoli ( 23 m.;4 hours; fare 3 fr. 40 c. )Gallipoli (the Anxa of Pliny) was founded by Lacedemonians, under Leucippus, and by Tarentines. It is delightfullysituated on a rocky island in the Gulf of Taranto, connectedwith the shore by a stone bridge. It is the depôt of the oiltrade of the province; thousands of tons are collected hereannually, and stored in subterranean cisterns hewn in thelimestone rock. Castle, built by Charles I. of Anjou. In the villa gardens date palms are often seen. Some of the coasing steamers call here.318BARITO TARANTO.Proceeding from Lecce by rail, we pass successively thecomparatively unimportant stations of S. Cesario di Lecce, S.Donato, Galugnano, Sternatia, Zollino, Corigliano, Maglie,Bagnolo, Cannole, and Giardignano, to Otranto.Otranto (anc. Hydruntum) , now an insignificant fishingtown, with a population of barely 3000, was an important commercial colony in ancient times. It was a prosperous town inthe Middle Ages, but never recovered from its invasion by theTurks in 1480, who killed 12,000 inhabitants, sold numbersinto slavery, and ruled with violence and cruelty, till expelled bythe Duke of Calabria ( afterwards Alphonso II. ) in the following year. The Cathedral has ancient columns from aTemple of Mercury, and ancient mosaics, injured by the hoofsof the Turkish horses that were stabled here. The picturesqueCastle, built by Alphonso of Arragon, has become celebratedon account of the weird romance by Horace Walpole. Ruinsof the Torre del Serpe, a Venetian lighthouse, near thecity. A submarine telegraph connects Otranto with Vallona,and another with Corfu. With the latter island small boatsand sailing vessels maintain a communication.The mountains of Epirus can be seen from the castle ramparts in clear weather.From Otranto, or Maglie, the tourist may, if inclined, pushforward by Castro and Alessano through an agreeable, wellcultivated district, to the Capo di Leuca, the first point ofItaly beheld by Æneas, according to Virgil. The return can beeffected by Ugento and Gallipoli (see p. 317) to Maglie, or onby Nardò to Lecce.BARI TO TARANTO.(Railway, 72 miles, 4 hours. )On leaving Bari, we first pass Modugno, then Bitetto, andGrumo. From the latter place may be visited Gravina (population, 14.000), noted for its fair, April 20th, one of the mostfamous in the kingdom, passing through Altamura (population, 17,000), birthplace of Mercadante. Roman ruins, etc.The next station to Grumo is Acquaviva. Cassano ( 3 mileswest) has a stalactite cavern; fine views from Capuchin convent. Gioia (population, 14,000) . Enter the Terra d'Otranto,and scenery becomes more attractive. S. Basilio, then Castel- laneta, with remains of Greek town, with tombs, etc., in theTARANTO. 319neighbourhood. The railway passes over deep ravines by meansof iron viaducts, affording fine views . Palagianello. Here, asin some other towns of South Italy, many of the poor live in caves in the soft rocks. Palagiano. Massafra. Church ofMadonna della Scala, reached by long stairs, at the bottom ofa deep ravine. The next station is Taranto.TARANTOis a place with which the traveller will be considerably disappointed if he expects to find the town at all commensurate infame and splendour with ancient Tarentum .Tarentum or Taras was the first city in Magna Grecia forwealth and power. Already a town when Psalanthos led theParthenians here in 707 B.C. , it soon rose in importance, andgradually became celebrated for its magnificence of Greek decoration, its fine harbour crowded with the traffic of the knownworld, its powerful fleet, and its army of 30,000 infantry and5000 horse. Its wine, and figs, and salt, its purple dye andfine wool, and other merchandise, were renowned far and wide.But as Tarentum flourished, its inhabitants became equallyfamous for effeminacy and luxury. For ten years, leaguedwith Pyrrhus of Epirus, they contended against the growingpower of Rome, but were subjugated in B.C. 272. As Macaulaysings-" The ranks of false Tarentum like hunted sheep shall fly,In vain the bold Epirotes around their standards die.In the second Punic War, the Tarentines fancied they sawan opportunity to become again independent, and joined Hannibal. But the city was reconquered by Fabius Maximus B.C.209, its art treasures removed to Rome, and 30,000 of its inhabitants sold as slaves. Brundusium was henceforth madethe chief port of South Italy. In 123, the Romans planted anew colony at Tarentum, and the dye and wool manufacturesagain flourished . Horace celebrates the long spring and milawinters of the district. In the days of its prosperity, Tarentumhad schools of philosophy, in which Pythagoras of Samos taughthis system, and which were visited by Plato, attracted by their fame.The modern town of Taranto ( mile from station, fareI fr. ) has 27,500 inhabitants crowded into narrow insignificanstreets, on an island between the outer and inner harbour,320 TARANTO TO REGGIO.site of the ancient Acropolis. There is a considerable trade inwheat, oats, and oil.The Cathedral (quite modernized) has important monuments; Philip of Taranto, etc. Sumptuous chapel of SaintCataldus, with silver bust and relics with precious stones, etc. Castle and fortifications built by Charles V. Ruins ofRoman Circus , and other remains. There is a smallMuseum of vases, etc.; ancient Tarentine coins are remark- able for fine execution. Aqueduct, 20 miles, last threemiles on arches, attributed to Emperor Nicephorus I. , 803 a.d.The Mare Piccolo, or inner harbour (not now serviceable) ,is twelve miles round, a smooth lake surrounded by olive- cladslopes, and abounding in fish. A good view of it from the Villa S. Lucca, mile from Taranto. The district round isnoted for its fruit and honey; the celebrated tarantula spideris often seen; but its bite, though decidedly a thing to beavoided, does not seem to have at the present day its traditional power of causing convulsions, only to be cured by music anddancing.TARANTO TO REGGIO.(320 miles. )The railway is now open from Taranto to Reggio. The traveller in Calabria will need introductions to some of the chieflandowners. No other part of Italy is so much behind thetimes. The scenery is very lovely, but malaria, etc. , render careand precaution requisite. The coast scenery between Tarantoand Reggio is without a rival on the Mediterranean coasts.Travellers to this district will find, on inquiry, serviceable waysofcombining the land and water routes.On leaving Taranto, the railway passes over a flat countrywith distant views of the Calabrian mountains, etc. Ginosa.Torremare. Ruins of Greek Temple on site of ancient Metapontum (3 miles N.E.) , where Pythagoras died B.C. 497.Crossing the Basente, we next arrive at S. Basilio Pisticci, thenat Scanzano Montalbano. Cross the Agri (anc. Aciris) andreach Policoro (on site of anc. Heracleia, birthplace of Zeuxis) .Forests abounding in wild boar. Dense underwood of arbutus,myrtle, etc. Nova Siri, Rocca Imperiale, Nucara, Monte Giordano, Roseto, Amendolara, Trebisacce, cross the Seracino to TorreCerchiera, Buffaloria di Cassano.Cassano (7 miles from last station) with a delightfulTARANTO TO REGGIO. 321climate, in the midst of lovely scenery. Warm baths.Ruins of feudal Castle with splendid views, crowned byMonte Pollino (7000 feet). Torre di Milo, a Roman tower,from whence it is said that the stone was thrown that killed T.Annius Milo, when besieging Cosa, in the cause of Pompey.In the vicinity are the Coscile (anc. Sybaris) which was saidto render men vigorous who bathed in it, and the Crati (anc.Crathis), famed for its reputed power of giving the hair ofbathers a yellow colour.The rail next reaches Corigliano, on a height formed like anatural amphitheatre, with feudal castle on the summit, andorange and lemon groves round its base. Rossano (population,14,800), with marble and alabaster quarries.From Rossano can be visited ( with introductions) the picturesque and extensive tract of pine- clad mountains and valleysknown as La Sila , about 40 miles long by 20 broad. Thehighest summit, commanding both seas, is over 6000 feet. Itis almost unvisited by travellers, and is in a most primitive condition. Game and fish are abundant. The scenery is of greatbeauty and variety. There are numerous villages on the slopes,and broad table- lands thronged with cattle in the summerseason, lie amongst the heights on which the snow lingers tillMay or June. Whole families of shepherds, landowners, etc.,look forward to their migration to La Sila in the summer monthsas the event of the year. There are many allusions to thischarming locality in ancient authors, though at the present dayit is perhaps the least-known mountain district in S. Europe.The railway runs from Rossano through a mountainousdistrict and across the Trionto to Mirto Crosia; GiacomoCalopezzati; Campana to Cariati.From Cariati to Cotrone, the railway follows the shore,Crucoli and castle on right, to the Punta del' Alice (anc. promontory of Crimissa) , where Philoctetes hung up the bow andarrows of Hercules in the temple he had built after his returnfrom Troy. Strongoli, on the height, besieged by Hannibal after Cannæ. Cross the plain of the Neto (the Neathus ofTheocritus) the scene of the firing of the Greek ships by theTrojan women, to prevent further wanderings. Pass severalmarshes and cross the muddy Eraso (anc. Aesauras) which it must be inferred is not as it was when Theocritus extolled it inhis Bucolics. Cotrone is a small seaport (anc. Crotona)founded B.C. 710. For a time Pythagoras taught here.The Capo delle Colonne, or Capo Nau, 6 miles N.E. of 21322 REGGIO.Cotrone, is conspicuously crowned by a single column of thecelebrated temple of Juno Lacinia.From Cotrone to Catanzaro ( 11 miles) little of interest presents itself. Catanzaro has 28,900 inhabitants, withvelvet and silk factories, and olive plantations. Castlefounded by Robert Guiscard. Cathedral, with chapels, andtwo or three good paintings. From this place the railwaypasses through Squillace, Mantauro, Soverato, and Badolato, toMonasterace, from which point Reggio is reached by train in5 hours. The stations passed are, Stilo, built in picturesqueterraces; iron mines in the vicinity; Riace; Caulonia; Roccella;Gioiosa; Siderno; Gerace, cathedral with remains of ancienttemples. From Gerace, a bridle road through the wild glenand forest scenery of the Passo del Mercante leads toCasalnuovo. Splendid views in crossing the heights.The line continues by Ardore; Bovalino, whence may bevisited S. Maria de' Polsi , a monastery in the midst of aremarkable mountain amphitheatre, under the highest peak of the Aspromonte. (Montalto, 6079 feet. ) Bianconuova;Brancaleone, then skirting Cape Spartivento to Palizzi; Pietrapennata ( 1 mile E.) with famous sea and mountain scenery;Boua; Amendolea; Melito; Saline; the mountains of Sicilynow come grandly into view; Lazzaro; pass Capo dell ' Armi,Pellaro , S. Gregorio; Reggio.Reggio (anc. Rhegum) , founded by Messinians in 723B.C. , has been several times destroyed by Goths, Saracens,Turks, etc., etc., or by earthquakes. It was last rebuilt in1783, and has fine streets rising to the hills sprinkled with villas. Cathedral with ancient mosaics, etc. Ruined fortress.The beautiful vegetation of the neighbourhood is very attrac- tive. Population of Reggio, including villages adjacent, is40,000. Garibaldi was wounded and taken prisoner, August29th, 1862, in the Aspromonte mountains in the rear of thecity.The train proceeds from the Reggio station to the port,where the steamer is waiting.The Islands.ELBA.From Piombino (diligence from La Cornia station, seep. 20), the tourist may visit Elba by the daily mail boat; orhe may make the excursion by steamer from Leghorn.Mountainous Elba, from whose reddish- black hills its successive owners have drawn great wealth from Etruscan timesto the present day, is about 18 miles long by 6 broad. Bythe working of the iron ore and the preparation of tunniesand sardines, the greater part of the population (22,000) are supported. The inland town of Rio is the chief seat of theiron- works; the other villages are mostly on the coast. PortoLongone is of Spanish origin; a picturesque stronghold.Porto Ferrajo has a lovely bay encircled by mountains.On the height above are two commanding forts, Stella andFalcone, erected by Cosmo I. , of Tuscany, to whom Elba was presented by Charles V. Between these forts is thesmall palace of the Governatore, for nine months the residence of the exiled Napoleon, previous to his last struggle forpower, and containing some reminders of its imperial occupancy.The arsenal, theatre, and cathedral , are of no great importance.Lofty mountains (the highest, Monte Capanne, 3304 feet) cover the greater part of Elba; there are two fertilevalleys intervening, and the east coast, especially near Capo- liveri, is well cultivated, yielding an abundance of fine fruit and wine.There are several small isles in the vicinity, at some ofwhich the Leghorn steamers stop. Sterile Gorgona with itsfishermen; wine-producing Capraja (" island of goats " );Palmaiola; Cerboli; flat Pianosa (anc. Planasia) , withRoman remains referred to an exiled grandson of Augustus;the granite rocks of Monte Cristo with monastic ruins; andGiglio (anc. Igilium) , rising to 1630 feet above the sea level,with various traces of Roman palaces, etc.324 THE ISLANDS.CORSICAis situated 85 miles from the coast of Italy, and 112 miles fromFrance. It is 114 miles in length from N. to S.Corsica first appears in history as a Phoenician colony. TheRomans were engaged in conquering it from B.C. 260 to aboutB.C. 160. Greeks, Moors, and German emperors subsequentlyruled the island. Pisa seized it in 1077, and after desperatestruggles relinquished it to Genoa in 1312. Genoa held it till1768, but often only nominally. From 1729 to 1768 Corsicastruggled for its independence, especially under the noted Pasquale Paoli. Genoa then ceded the island to France, to whomit has since belonged, except for two years, di ring the Revolutionary War, when it was governed by England.The population of the island is about 253,000. Its climate varies with the elevation. It has been described as Italian upto 1800 feet, French up to Cooo feet, and above that Norwegian. Snow remains onthe mountains till May or June. Thebest months to visit the island are from October to April, butthe malaria-haunted plains must be avoided till December.Amongst the mountains and elevated forests, the Mouffion ,or native wild sheep, is abundant. Wild boars abound in someparts. The red- legged partridge, quail, woodco*ck, and other birds are very numerous.Corsica (Ajaccio) can be reached by steamer from Marseilles (24 hours) , Nice (14 hours), Leghorn (6 or 7 hours).The island contains pretty good roads, of French origin; locomotion is usually performed by diligence. The inns are notwell spoken of; bargaining is necessary, and ordinary tourist luxuries must not be expected.On the shores of its desolate but magnificent gulf, standsAjaccio (pop. 14,000), (anc. Uricinium) . The French andItalian mixture is very conspicuous in architecture, society, etc.In the Place Buonaparte stands a colossal equestrianstatue of Napoleon I. The Hotel de Ville has a library andsome pictures; especially noticeable are those of Napoleon'sfather and other members of the Napoleon family. Cathedral, 16th century; Prefecture; Theatre, etc. TheCollege Fesch has about a dozen professors and a largenumber of pupils. One wing contains 800 pictures (none ofgreat merit) , formerly belonging to Cardinal Fesch. The otherwing is the Memorial Chapel of the Buonaparte family,where rest the remains of Madame Mère, on whose tomb isAJACCIO TO BASTIA: 325inscribed " Mater Regum." Others of the family are buriedhere. The chapel is elegant, and internally decorated withscagliola. The House where Napoleon I. was born,August 15, 1769, is in the Place Letizia, Rue St. Charles. Someof the original furniture is still in the rooms.In the extremely mountainous environs of Ajaccio, delightful but rough rambles can be taken.AJACCIO TO BASTIA.(95 miles. )The road ascends the valley of the Gravona to Bocognano (25 miles), an ancient village, surrounded by woods ofchestnut. Thence, the central chain of mountains is ascended,and leaving on the right Monto Renoso ( 7546 ft. ) , we passthrough groves of beech-trees of great size to the highest pointin the road (3757 ft. ) , with Monte del Oro, towering 5000ft. above the pass, and thence descend through the magnificentforest of Vizzarona to the town of Vivario ( 14 miles) .Gloomy mountains and forests encircle this place. It is the very centre of the terrible and too true stories of La Vendetta.From Vivario the road crosses the Vecchio and other mountaintorrents, and ascends to Corte ( 14 miles) . Corte is 1424 ft.above the sea level. Here stands a bronze statue of thepatriot Paoli, raised by subscription in 1854. Above is thecitadel ( 15th cent. ) which has been the scene of many a bloodystruggle between Corsicans and Genoese. This town was saidto be the Saracenic capital of the island. It was usually thedemocratic capital in revolutionary times. Here Gaffori governedfrom 1745 to 1753 , and here Gaffori's murderer was broken onthe wheel, whilst his sister-in- law, the widow of his victim,stood looking on. Such was Corsican revenge.Pasquale Paoli ruled here from 1755 to 1769, and from his bequest the existing Paoli College was founded. Few are thestatesmen who have left in the memories of their countrymenso pure and stainless and honoured a name as Paoli.From Corte, Monte Rotondo (9068 ft. ) can be ascendedbetween May and September. The view is of great extent andsplendour.From Corte there is a daily diligence in 8 hours, passingPonte Francardɔ (on the Golo) , Ponte alla Leccia, Ponte Nuovo(Corsican defeited by French, 1769), and through the fertiledistrict ofthe Castagiuccia, abounding in chestnut trees. Rostinohas in its vicinity, the hamlet La S: retta, where Paoli w326 THE ISLANDS.born; the house is still shown, also the Convent where thepatriots used to meet.From Vescorato the road turns northward, passing Borgothe scene of the Corsican victory over the French in 1768, andin 1812 the scene of a conflict for several days between thecommunes of Borgo and Lucciana. The fray arose from the factof a church procession having been interrupted by the carcase of a donkey lying across the road. Each commune laid it tothe charge of the other, and several lives were lost. Leavingon the right the Stagno di Biguglia, a swampy lake, withinnumerable wild fowl, we reach Bastia.Bastia was the Genoese capital of the island. It is a placeof commercial importance with a harbour and a new port. In the Place S. Nicholas stands Bartolini's famous Statue ofNapoleon. In the vicinity of the town the olive and thevine abound. Brando is 5 m. north of Bastia, with its beautifulStalactite Grotto. The Serra di Pegno ( 3500 ft. ) commandsfine views. Monte Stello (5193 ft. ), is near Brando. FromBastia there is a good road to the north end of the island, wherethe telegraph is laid to La Spezzia.CALVI TO BASTIA.The shortest passage from Marseilles to Corsica is by steamer to Calvi.Calvi (pop. 2000) is a decayed town. In 1794 it was defended against Hood and Nelson by Raphael Casabianca. TheCorsicans cherish a belief, not generally accepted, that Columbuswas born at Calvi. The road to Bastia joins the route previously described at Ponte alla Leccia; or another route can betaken by Isola Rossa. This town was founded by Paoli torival Calvi, which was in the hands of the Genoese . It standson a rich plain abounding in figs, olives, almonds, oranges, andcitrons, and half the export trade of Corsica passes throughits harbour.CORTE TO VICO.This route may be accomplished in a day, but two daysshould be allowed, either on horseback or on foot. The journeyis a rough one; but grand and romantic scenery will reward the toil. The path is sometimes over mountain gorges at agreat elevation, and sometimes through immense and diversifiedAJACCIO TO BASTIA, 327forests.* At Vico accommodation may be procured. At twohours from Vico is Guagno, a capital head- quarters for excursions in the interior of the island. A diligence runs from Vicoto Ajaccio in eight hours.AJACCIO TO BASTIA.(By Sartene and Bonifacio. )The first stage is from Ajaccio to Sartene (diligence 16 hours). Camo is passed. On the hill lies Sollacaro, whereBoswell visited Paoli in 1765.A long ascent brings us toSartene (population, 44,000) , on the mountain side. Theremarkable rock called " l'homme de Cagna " (4000 feet) ,is a conspicuous feature in the view. A road from Sarteneleads to Corte. Little or nothing is known of this road bywriters on Corsica; it must lead by some of the loftiest mountains and grandest forests of Corsica, and presents afine openingfor tourists of an exploring turn of mind. At Sartene two factions carried on war to the knife from 1812 till the accessionof Prince Louis Napoleon to the Presidency.From Sartene a diligence goes to Bastia ( 124 miles), in thecourse of two days, stopping at Bonifacio.From June to October, the malaria drives the inhabitantsof south-west Corsica to the highlands. It always has adeserted look.Bonifacio, on a rock above its harbour, is approached bya zig-zag path. About 3,500 inhabitants dwell in this wretchedand uninteresting town. The rock is undermined by the sea,and the Grottoes are shown to visitors . There is also aso-called Saracenic staircase, and a medieval tower (Torrione),etc. From Bonifacio, by Porto Vecchio, to Bastia, the roadpresents little or nothing of interest. It is the rugged grandeurof its lofty mountains and the romantic beauty of its denseforest scenery which form the chief attractions of Corsica.SARDINIAis situate 138 miles from Italy, 180 miles from Sicily, and 115miles from Africa. It is very mountainous, but has a monotonous coast, and presents little to interest the ordinary tourist.

• There are 46 " Royal Forests in Corsica.

328 THE ISLANDS.The safest months for a visit are from the middle of April tothe middle of June. Steamers from Leghorn, Naples, Palermo,etc., at weekly or fortnightly intervals (see local advertisem*nts).Cagliari is the capital of the island , a finely- situated townbuilt in terraces on the hill- side. (Population, 30,905. ) Thereis a castle, university, and museum; the latter containinggeological and mineralogical collections, and some valuableantiquities. The ruins of an amphitheatre are seen near the town.The principal highroad in Sardinia runs north and south,from Cagliari to Porto Torres.The railway to Oristano, on the west coast, passes Elmas,Assemini, Decimomannu, Villasor, etc.Oristano (6485 inhabitants) is an uninviting, feverstricken, and mosquito-haunted town, but has some interestingexcursions in the neighbourhood. Tharros, with tombs, andalso the Necropolis, both rich in antiquities. Milis , with itsbeautiful orange gardens, or rather a tract of country overgrownwith orange-trees. "As far as the eye can penetrate the balmyregion, it meets with oranges in every direction. " There are more than 300,000 trees, some of them six feet in circumference. Mare Pontis (with excellent fishing) , S. Marco, Fordungianus, and other points of interest, are also within riding distance. The road from Oristano to Sassari ascends toMacomer ( 1890 feet above sea-level) . Some Roman relics are found here. The nuragghi, which are a great feature ofSardinia, abound in this locality. They are considered to beprehistoric monumental tombs, consisting of unhewn stones,piled into cones from 30 to 60 feet high, and mostly containingtwo or three vaulted chambers. The road crosses the lofty plainof La Campedda (2250 feet) , and in winter travellers are oftensnowed up for days at Macomer or Bonorva.A cross road leads to Alghero on the west coast.Cathedral, 1510. Grottoes of Neptune, remarkable for theirstalactites.Sassari (population, 25,000) is a prosperous modern town with castle, university, cathedral, museum, etc. In theneighbourhood is the valley of Ciocca; Hill of Ploaghe (volcanic); Abbey of Madonna di Saccargia ( 1116) built of colouredmarbles; village of Osilo on volcanic slopes 2132 feet abovesea- level, with splendid views.From Sassari, a short railway runs to Porto Torres (anc.SICILY. 329Turris Libyssonis), chief place for export of cattle to France.Basilica of S. Gavino, mile from town. Extensive Romanruins of aqueduct, bridge, temple, etc.An excursion of four or five days can be made from Laconi(reached by diligence from Cagliari) into the mountain districtof La Barbagia, which boasts that it was never conqueredeither by Carthage or Rome. Several summits, includingPunta Bruncu Spina (6266 feet) can be scaled, and much delightful scenery can be met with. Letters of introductionwill be needed, and supplies of food and blankets should be taken.SICILY.A week, a fortnight, or a much longer period if practicable,may be well spent in the charming island of Sicily. Theclimate cannot be overpraised; the scenery is unsurpassed; andGreek, and Saracen, and Norman have crowned its hills withcountless monuments of their architectural skill.There are steamers from Marseilles to Messina weekly,touching at Leghorn and Civita Vecchia; from Genoa toPalermo weekly, and from Naples to Messina and Palermoalmost every day. From Reggio twice daily.The railways at present open in Sicily are:-1. Messina, by Catania, to Syracuse, 114 miles.2. Catania to Palermo, with extensions at Canicatti to Licata,and at Caldare to Girgenti, Porto Empedocle.3. Palermo, Castelvetrano, Mazzara, Marsala, Trapani, 117 miles.A more direct line between Catania and Palermo willshortly be opened, on the completion of the tunnel at Marianopoli.For other routes, carriages, or mules and guides, must be taken. To explore the island pretty thoroughly (about30 to 35 days) will entail considerable expense and some privation.A steamer from Palermo goes round the island weekly, calling at Messina and Syracuse.April and May, or September and October, are the bestmonths for visiting Sicily. The ascent of Etna is best performed in September, but is quite possible at other seasons.The area ofthe island is 11,410 square miles; the N. coastis 200 miles in length; the S.W. 177 miles, and the E. 135 miles.330 THE ISLANDS.Historical Notice.It would be foreign to the purposes of a tourist's Handbookto do more than briefly allude to the chief features of the strangeand romantic history of Sicily. The island had of course itsperiod of fable when Giants, Cyclops, and Lotophagi, were thetraditional inhabitants, and when Hercules and other mythicpersonages came and built temples or achieved exploits . Ashistory dawns we find, the Sicani, Siculi, etc., living here, andwandering Trojans, Cretans, and Phoenicians settling at variouspoints. In B.c. 735 Theocles with a band of Euboean emigrants,founded Naxos, and in less than two centuries, the nativeswere either reduced to serfdom or driven to the mountainfastnesses of the interior, and the island became essentiallyGreek. Syracuse and Agrigentum grew to eminent states.Art and philosophy flourished, and noble temples sprang up,which still remain to testify of the splendour of this period.At the court of Hiero of Syracuse, Theocritus, Bion, Moschus,and Archimedes flourished. Carthagian invasions and revoltsof the Siculi for a time were successfully encountered . But asdivisions grew amongst the Sicilian Greek states, anarchy setin; and petty tryants ruled in the various cities.In 264 B.C. Rome became mixed up in Sicilian affairs, andas a consequence, in about fifty years, the island was a Romanprovince. Under wise care, it was for a time the granary ofItaly. But Verres, and similar rapacious agents, despoiled theisland, and lashed the people into revolt. The so- called ServileWars resulting, and other struggles of which it was the arena,ruined the prosperity of the island. With Rome's decline,Sicily became overrun by Vandals and Goths. Then came aSaracen epoch (827 to 1061 ), and this lovely island became asthe Moorish provinces of Spain. Next succeeded the Normans.Roger, son of Tancred, landed in 1061, and in ten years the island was under Norman sway. The feudal system wasintroduced and a strong government maintained. In 1266Manfred fell at Benevento, and two years later the young Corradino was executed at Naples by Charles of Anjou; theNorman- Sicilian line was at an end, and the island submittedto the French yoke.In 1282 Sicily again asserted its independence. The Frenchwere massacred on the occasion known in history as TheSicilian Vespers. But the island, wasted by internal feuds andincessant struggles with the other powers, ultimately becameMESSINA. 331the prey, in turns, of various states; an outlying province ofSpain, France, Austria, and Naples, -seized by conquest, orhanded about by diplomacy, to maintain the " balance of power."Various outbreaks against tyranny diversify the long story ofoppression and misrule; until in 1860, the great liberator,Garibaldi, burst upon the scene. Sicily became part of theunited kingdom of Italy, and has entered on a new era ofprosperity.MESSINA(Hotel- See Appendix)is reached in about 17 hours from Naples by steamer. Passingthe volcanic cone of Stromboli, we reach the once dreaded Farowith whirling Charybdis and frowning Scilla, anchor in themiddle of the busiest harbour in Italy, and land in small boats( fr. ) at the Sanita. Porterthence to the Dogana and hotel(I fr.)The spacious harbour is surrounded by the well- builttown; four principal streets running parallel to the Marinawith other streets crossing them . Earthquake, war, and cholera, etc., have often ravaged Messina, but it is now aflourishing town of over 127,000 inhabitants, including the 48 suburban villages.These calamities, however, have rendered the town signallydevoid of relics of antiquity. Nothing Greek or Saracenic remains.The Cathedral or Matrice is of mixed style; it wascommenced in 1098, completed by Roger II. , and damaged byfire and earthquake at various times. Twenty-six granitecolumns from a Temple of Neptune, adorn the curious and picturesque west front.The High Altar has cost millions of francs; it is very richbut not in good taste. It holds the celebrated letter from the Virgin Mary to the Messinese, since proved a sixteenth centuryforgery of Constantine Lascaris . There are some pictures and monuments, not of great importance. The mosaics in theApses date from 1333. The fountain of Montorsoli ( 1647-51)in front of the Cathedral is very graceful; it has statues of the Nile, Tiber, etc., and bas-reliefs.S. Maria dei Catalani is the oldest Norman church inMessina. It was preceded by a mosque, and before that byGreek temple on the same site.332 THE ISLANDS.S. Francesco d'Assisi (13th cent.). Behind the HighAltar is an ancient Sarcophagus of interest.The Monastery of S. Gregorio has a church noticeablefor its gorgeous decorations and fine pictures by Antonello da Messina.S. Maddalena is historically noteworthy as the scene of a fearful conflict between the Messinians and the soldiers of theKing of Naples after his paternal bombardment of the town in 1848.The Palazzo di Citta (Town Hall) is modern, byGiacomo Minutoli.Teatro Vittorio Emanuele, with handsome sculpturesby Rosario Zagari.The University contains a Picture Gallery of littleimportance; a Library with some valuable MSS.; and aMuseum ( -1 fr. ), containing Greek inscriptions, sarcophagi,colossal Ferdinand by Tenerani, etc. These collections are opendaily from 9 to 4 o'clock.The Campo Santo is alone worth a visit to Messina; it isone of the finest in Italy, situate on a hill, with striking view.The forts of Castellaccio ( N.) and Gonzaga (S. ) datefrom 1540. Splendid views of Messina, Calabria, etc., can beobtained from various points near the town. The highestpeaks in the neighbourhood are Monte Siccio ( 1995 ft. ) , andDinnamari (3707 ft. ) . Several agreeable short excursionscan be made to the Faro, and other places in the neighbourhood, as well as to Reggio, Palmi, Monte S. Elia, etc., onthe opposite coast.THE LIPARI ISLANDS.A visit to Lipari can be made in three days, for about 60fr.; to Stromboli would take three days longer, and an extra 50 fr.Lipari is the largest island of the group, over 30 m. in circumference, and very fertile. In the Cathedral andChurch of Addolorata, are paintings by Alibrandi. Thehot springs at San Calogero are noted. Vulcano is a hugesmoking crater, visited by boat from Lipari. Isola dellaSaline (boat from Lipari) is the chief source of Malmsey wine.Two volcanic cones rise to the height of about 3000 ft. Filicuri,Alicuri, and the Panmaria group offer no particular attractions .Stromboli, the fabled seat of Eolus, was in the middle agesthe supposed entrance to Purgatory. The volcano (3022 ft . ) isTAORMINA. 333constantly active; the ejected stones, etc., mostly falling back into the crater.MESSINA TO CATANIA.By railway 59 m. in 3 hours. The railway to Cataniaruns along the coast through delightful scenery, passing numerous villages. Tunnels and bridges are frequent. The stationsof Tremestieri; S. Stefano (with pleasant inland excursion tomonastery of S. Placido); Scaletta (with castle); Alì (withsulphur baths), and Nizza di Sicilia are successively passed. At Nizza Sicilia is a ruined castle of Prince Alcontres; some temporarily abandoned copper and silver mines are in the valley ofthe Fiume di Nisi. S. Teresa is the next station. Crossingseveral broad rushing streams we see on the left Capo S.Alessio with the deserted fort built by the British during theiroccupation of the island; on the right Forza. Stat. S. Alessio.After a tunnel we reach the Tauromenitanian passes ofthe ancients. This part of the coast is considered to rival thefamous Genoese Rivièra. " Lofty mountains descend to the sea,leaving a narrow rim of richly- cultivated plain, sprinkled withtowns and villages; while a broad margin of white sand runsalong the shore, and masses of rocks have fallen into the transparent water." Letojanni station, and then Giardini .This is the halting place for visiting Taormina. Carriageroad 3 miles. Bridle-path (with donkey and boy) , about30 minutes.TAORMINA(Hotel-See Appendix)is the ancient Tauromenium, contains 5000 inhabitants, in onelong street and a few divergent lanes.The view from the Theatre at Taormina is the finest inSicily. " No one who has ever seen the sun rise from thisglorious spot can ever forget it. Almost at our feet was theimmense expanse of murmuring sea; below, the beautifulsweep of the theatre, and the broken arches of the proscenium,overhung by tremendous rocks, half covered with tufts ofcactus, the town upon its beetling precipice, the winding shoreall the way from Syracuse to Messina, with the stupendousmass of Etna towering above everything beside. "-Pictures ofSicily.Visits to the place at different hours of the day will showmarvellous effects of light and shade.334 THE ISLANDS.This Theatre (1 fr. ) is of Greek origin. There is a smallcollection of antiquities near the entrance, including a Torso ofthe Eros of Praxiteles. The theatre is 357 feet in diameter;the orchestra 129 feet; it shows signs of Roman modification,and has been partially restored at various times. Ancient arrangements for theatrical amusem*nts can be readily studied here.In and about Taormina, once one of the most celebrated ofSicilian cities, are several ancient and mediæval remains, andmuch charming scenery.From Giardino the railway next crosses lava streams fromEtna, and passes the site of ancient Naxos, the first GreekSicilian colony. Cross the Cantara river. Station Calatapiano.Here we encounter the stream of lava that broke forth inB.C. 396, and forced Himilco and his army to round Mount Etnaon their way to Syracuse. The next stations are Piedimonte,Mascali, and Giarre Riposto.Giarre ( mile from station) has nearly 18,000 inhabitants. The remains of the celebrated chestnut-tree, " di CentoCavalli," are at S. Alfio, five miles up the Etna slopes. The1865 craters may be visited from hence in five hours, but it iseasier from Linguaglossa ( p. 337).From Giarre, the rail passes to Magano, and then, stillover partly-cultivated lava-fields, to Aci Reale. This town isbuilt on lava. The locality is the scene of the stories of Acis,Galatea, and Polyphemus. Aci Reale has a population of24,000 souls, and has become a very favourite health resort since the Grand Hotel has been constructed. The climateis very mild. A large and elegant Thermal Establishment is connected with the hotel. Pleasant excursions can be undertaken in every direction. Near station Aci Castello are theseven huge masses of basalt and limestone, called the Scoglide' Ciclopi, or Faraglioni, being the rocks which blindPolyphemus hurled at Ulysses, projecting wildly from the sea,and overlooked by the Castle of Aci, on a huge volcaniccliff. Passing the site of the ancient Portus Ulyssis of Virgil,we arrive at Catania.CATANIA.(Hotel. See Appendix . )-tania (population, 86,000) is a town of broad and open.has an unsafe harbour, but is a capital residence forits average annual temperature being 9° higher than J. It enjoys considerable trade, and in summer sendsETNA. 335two cargoes of snow weekly to Malta. There is much wealthamongst the nobility, the palaces destroyed by earthquakes, etc. ,having been frequently re-erected. There are no ancientedifices above ground, but many Greek or Roman remainshave been partially disinterred from the accumulation of lava,etc. Amongstthese maybe noticed the Greek- Roman Theatre,Roman Odeum, Amphitheatre, Baths, Tombs, etc. The best relics found in these excavations are with othercuriosities in the Biscari Museum .The Cathedral (of which, owing to earthquakes, etc. ,only the apses and east transept remain of the original edificecommenced by Roger I. in 1091 ) contains monuments ofthe Arragonese Princes, and the Relics of S. Agatha,martyred A.D. 252. These relics are carried in procession on the occasion of the saint's festival in February. In the sacristyis a fresco, The Eruption of 1669, by Mignemi.The Benedictine Monastery of S. Nicola, on highground in the upper part of the city, is a splendid and extensiveedifice, with a fine, spacious church, remarkably powerfulorgan, and museum of Sicilian vases, etc. The gardenis a delightful spot, with superb views of Etna, etc.The Church of Santo Carcere, with its fine GreekNorman portal; the Amenanus, flowing under the lava of1669, which may be reached from the Strada delle Botted'Acqua; the Botanical Garden; and the new GiardinoPubblico, where the band plays three times a week, are thechief remaining objects of interest in the town of Catania.ETNA.As a matter of course the mighty Etna is an all- absorbingtopic in Catania, and from hence the ascent is effected. Amoonlight night in the autumn (July to September) is the best time.The excursion may be performed in about twenty hours.Information may be obtained at the office of the Alpine Club at Catania. From Catania to Nicolosi is a drive of 2hours. It is usual to leave Nicolosi about 7.30, and proceed by mules (with provisions, etc. ) to the Casa Inglese(a small erection for the accommodation of travellers), and thence on foot to the summit to see the sun rise, gettingback to Nicolosi about noon next day. It is easier, but, ofcourse, more expensive, to leave Catania very early, and Nic336 THE ISLANDS.losi about 9.0 A.M., reaching the summit in time to view the sunset, and then return to the Casa Inglese and spend the night.The cone is again ascended in the morning to see the sun rise,and the return journey to Catania accomplished by the evening.Mount Etna covers a nearly circular district, about 100miles in circumference. It is 10,840 feet high, but does notappear so; the slope being so gradual . All this region is volcanic, interspersed with lava streams, the more recent black andrugged, the ancient ones decomposing and more cr less coveredwith vegetation. The traveller to the summit must be prepared to meet a torrid, temperate, and frigid temperature on hisjourney, and he will also pass through three distinct zones, asregards vegetation, etc. The other district, rising from the seato the base of the mountain, is very fertile; then comes theBosco, or wooded region, with dense forests or scattered groupsof chestnuts, ilex, oak, or sometimes pine, many of the treesattaining an enormous growth. Just below the Bosco, are 180small cones, which anywhere else would be themselves respectable mountains; note, for instance, Monte Rosso aboveNicolosi. Above the Bosco comes a third region of drearydesolation, consisting of scoriæ and ashes; and for a considerableportion of the year covered with snow.The view from the summit is of vast extent, and has beenthe theme of descriptions innumerable. 50,000 square milesof land and sea form the vast encircling prospect, and theeffects of light and shade at sunrise and sunset are truly marvellous. On returning from the summit after remounting atthe Casa Inglese, it is usual to make a detour to visit the black,rock-bound gulf, 4 miles wide, called the Val di Bove, withtwo cones of the 1852 eruption, and the Torre del Filosofo, saidto have been the observatory of Empedocles, probably an erection of Hadrian's.From Catania an interesting Tour of the Mountainmay be made. To Paterno, through Misterbianco, and past thefeudal towers of Motta, the road gradually ascends amidst luxuriant vegetation; groves of orange, olive, almond, citron, etc.,are continuous. At Paterno, the castle with its Norman keepis conspicuous. Another similar keep is seen at Aderno;where also is the immense nunnery of S. Lucia founded byRoger in 1157. Hence to Bronte, a desolate road, throughvolcanic surroundings (crossing the streams of six datederuptions), skirts the more abrupt western slopes of Etna.Some estates here belong to the descendants of Lord NelsonSYRACUSE. 337and Bronte, whose Italian title is now little remembered.From Bronte, the road along the N. side of Etna passes throughextensive oak and chestnut forests to Randazzo. The churches,ducal palace, town hall, and some other buildings in this town,may be noticed in passing. The next stage is Linguaglossa,from whence in 3 hours, the craters of 1865 may be visited(mule 7 to 8 fr. , attendant 1 fr. ) . From Linguaglossa,through Piedimonte to Giardini. The road is the old militaryway traversed by Himilco, 396, Timoleon, 344, and Charles V.1534. From Giardini to Catania ( see p. 333.)CATANIA TO SYRACUSE.By rail, 3 hours; by steamboat, 4 hours. Through therich and fertile Piano di Catania, the principal grain andcotton district of Sicily, the railway passes to Bicocca(junction for Leonforte; thence to Passo Martino; cross theSimeto and Gurnalunga, which unite to form the Giarretta.Station, Valsavoia. The largest lake in Sicily ( ro to 14 milescircumference, according to the season) is next approached.This is the Biviere di Lentini, in winter the resort of waterfowl, and consequently of sportsmen; in summer a fertile sourceof malaria. Lentini, near the site of ancient Leontinoi, ofGreek, Roman, and Saracenic fame. Cross the Lionardo andreach Agnone, and afterwards Brucoli. Following the coastwe next arrive at Augusta, till lately Agosta, which was built by Frederick II. on site of ancient Xiphonia. It is a fortifiedtown with a good harbour. Here De Kuyler was defeated byDuquesne in 1676, and died at Syracuse of his wounds. Wenow skirt the Megarean Bay, anciently bordered with towns.To the west lies Mellili , once famous for the Hyblean honeypraised in classic poetry. At this town the festival of S. Sebastian, on May 1st and 2nd, attracts vast numbers. The nextstation is Priolo; Torre del Marcello, of doubtful origin, is Imile distant. Skirting the Trogilus (the Bay occupied by thefleet of Marcellus) , we arrive at the station of Siracusa, mile from the town.SYRACUSE.(Hotel. -See Appendix. )This city was at the period of its greatest prosperity 21miles in circumference. It is now a town of about 24,000inhabitants, confined to its earliest limits on the island Ortygia.22338 THE ISLANDS.It was founded by Corinthians in 734 B.C., probably on thesite of an earlier Phoenician colony. Its Greek, Roman, andMediæval history are replete with stirring details. Here Archimedes was killed by a Roman soldier, and here St. Paul spentthree days during his journey to Rome.In Modern Syracuse the Cathedral is partly formed from an ancient Doric temple, probably of Diana. TheMuseum (open daily 8.0 to 1.0) contains a marble Venus, acolossal Head of Zeno, an Esculapius, etc. , amongst thesculptures. There are also various vases and terra- cottas, a bronzehead of Medusa, etc. , etc. The Library (9000 vols. and a few MSS. ) is open daily from 10.0 to 12.0 . The fountain ofArethusa (the reputed scene of the celebrated Metamorphosis) ,the ruins of the temple of Diana and various other relics, are also to be seen.ANCIENT SYRACUSEwas situate on the mainland N. of the modern town. In thewestern portion it contains an Amphitheatre (230 feet by130 feet); the Latomia del Paradiso* with the celebratedEar of Dionysius, a tapering grotto, shaped like an S, withremarkable echoes, said to have been constructed by the tyrantwhose name it bears, in order to listen to his prisoners' conversation. The Ara (649 feet by 75 feet) is probably the notedAltar of Hiero II . , where the annual sacrifice of 450 oxen tookplace in memory of the expulsion of Thrasybulus. TheGreek Theatre is the third largest known, erected in the5th century B.C. It is 492 feet in diameter, and has numerousinteresting inscriptions. A Nymphæum is close by, anddivergent from it is the Street of Tombs, rock-hewn, likethe theatre. The Fort of Euryalus with its four massivetowers and deep fosses, etc., is at the W. extremity of the city.Many other objects of antiquarian interest are pointed out bythe guides.The eastern portion of the ancient city is chiefly theArachnida; it is best approached by boat across the smallharbour. Fragments of the ancient fortifications are numerous.Santa Lucia is a church, marking the site of the saint'smartyrdom. S. Giovanni, founded 1182, has a crypt, inwhich it is said St. Paul preached. In the adjacent extensive

• The Latomia were ancient quarries; also used as prisons, fortifica- tions, and burial places.

PALERMO. 339Catacombs, were found many Christian frescoes and inscriptions. The Latomia Casale contains a flower-garden, laidout by order of the Marchese Casale. The Latomia de' Cappucini, so named from the adjacent monastery, is the most remarkable of these huge quarries; here thousands of Athenians toiled in dreary captivity.The Vale of the Anapo, with its papyrus plants 20 ft.in height, and its innumerable water-fowl, forms a pleasant excursion. From the Marina at Syracuse to the mouth of theAnapo by boat ( 1 fr. ) , to the Fountain of Cyane (5 fr. ) . Thisis the source of one branch of the Anapo, and is the traditionary site of the Metamorphose of the Nymph whose nameit bears. Not far from the river is seen a hill on which are theshafts of two columns, —all that now remains of the celebratedtemple of Zeus Olympius. Here was a statue of the god (byGelon) , stolen by the rapacious Verres, having been previouslydeprived of its robe of gold by Dionysius.The caverns on the coast of the Arachnida are visited byboat in calm weather ( 1—2 fr. ) .PALERMO.(Hotel. See Appendix.)(Population, with suburbs, 245,000 . ) May be reached fromMessina by steamer; from Catania by rail; or by steamersdirect from Naples; 20 hours, 22 or 34 fr.Palermo is a fine city; approach by sea magnificent;situation charming; surrounding plain exquisitely verdant andfertile. The Via Vittorio Emanuele, running from thePorta Felice to the Porta Nuova, contains the finestpalaces and churches. The antiquities are mediæval, nothingearlier remains. Palermo is a salubrious winter residence forconsumptives.The Museum (daily, except Sunday and Monday, 10 to 3) .The chief treasures are the Metope of Selinus, Perseus andthe Medusa, Zeus and Hera, the Ram of Syracuse, and manycther sculptures, bronzes, etc. Of paintings there are numerousspecimens of the Sicilian, Flemish, and other schools; Holbein,Caracci, Van Dyck, Velasquez, and several other painters arerepresented.The Palazzo Reale, of Saracenic origin. The CapellaPalatina, considered the finest castle-chapel in the world;mosaics, etc. Tower of S. Ninfa; glorious panorama.340 THE ISLANDS.Cathedral (S. Rosalia) , dates from 12th century; interesting tombs, sculptures, and carvings. S. Giovanni degliEremiti, which rang in the " Sicilian Vespers, " is Norman.La Martorano, 12th century; mosaics, etc.The visitor with a few days at disposal will find many otherbuildings and objects of interest in Palermo; and in the environs are many delightful excursions; to Monreale, with itsfine cathedral , S. Martino, with monastery and museum;Monte Pellegrino, which Goethe calls "an indescribablybeautiful mass of rock," with the Grotto of S. Rosalia;the royal chateau of La Favorita; La Bagaria, Solanto, etc.The island of Ustica is visited (twice monthly) by steamer(7 fr. ).The Festival of S. Rosalia (July 11th to 15th) is an interesting occasion for a visit to Palermo; horse-races, illuminations, processions, etc. , etc.These notes on Sicily are very brief, and consequentlyimperfect. At Girgenti, near site of ancient Acragas, " mostbeautiful city of mortals," and in many other places, arenumerous ruins, etc., of great interest, too numerous even tomention in this epitome.

• Pindar.

APPENDIXFESTIVALS, FETES, FAIRS, ETC.[Some time since, a good article in Macmillan's Magazine calledattention to the want of a Traveller's Calendar, which shouldindicate the principal Festivals, etc., on the Continent of Europe.The present list is founded upon the data given in that article,and it is hoped it will be useful to the traveller. The Editorwill feel much indebted to those of his friends who will kindly favour him with information of other events of interest to add tothe list.]PLACE. DATE.Adelsberg..... Whit-Monday...Aix - la- Cha- July 10-24 ......pelle Whitsun-week .Amsterdam ... 2nd Monday in Sept. Annecy (Savoy) Jan. 29.Antwerp ...... Sunday follow- ing Aug. 15...Aug. 1 and 2Oct. 14April 10... ......... AssisiAugsburgAvellino......... Whit- SundayBari (S. Italy) ... May..........................Basle ............ Aug. 25 .........zerland ) ......... day following.Batersalp(Swit- July 25th or SunDESCRIPTION.Peasants' Ball in the Caverns. Illumi- nated.Exhibition of Relics in Cathedral every 7 years. Next Exhibition, 1888.The " Niederrheinische Musikfest. "Festivities of the Kermesse commence,and continue for a fortnight.Festival of St. Francis de Sales.Kermesse, Procession of Giant in Rubens' Car.Carnival for three days preceding Ash.Wednesday.Grand Festivals.Festival of St. Francis.Commencement of Fair, which con- tinues for a fortnight.Pilgrimage to Monte Vergine. Popular Fêtes. At Mercogliano, dances ofpeasants (5 days).S. Nicholas. Pilgrimage to shrine.Miraculous manna exuded.Commemoration of battle of St. Jacques.Wrestling Matches.342 APPENDIX.PLACE. DATE. DESCRIPTION.Beaucaire (on July.………………………………….. Great Fair. (Beaucaire is near Taras- Rhone)Bergamo ******Black Forest .Bologna.. BraBremenBrugesMiddle Aug, to middle Sept. End Aug., be- ginning Sept. Dec. 3.Sept. 8..Nov. 6...........1st Sun. in Lent 1st Sun. in May Brussels ......... Jan. 8July 13 or Sun- day following.Sept. 23 ....Cancello (S. July 26............Italy)Catania (Sicily)con. )Fair."Raft Parties" at Wildbad and else- where.St. Francis Xavier. Fête at Sta. Lucia.Pilgrimage to Sanctuary of Madonna dei Fiore.Festival.Great day of the Carnival.Festival.Ste. Gudule. Festival at Ste. Gudule.Procession of miraculous wafers in Ste.Gudule.Requiem Mass in Ste. Gudule. Fêtes de Septembre from 23-26.Annual Festival in honour of S. Pau- linus, who invented church bells.Games, processions, etc. Festival of Sta. Agata.99 Popular Fêtes.29Carnival for three days before Ash- Wednesday.Whitsun-week . The " Neiderrheinische Musikfest. ”Feb. 3-5 Aug. 18-21 Coire (Chur)Cologne ...... Ascension Day .Courtrai (Belgium)Einsiedeln Jan. 21............(Switzerland)Sept. 14 .Engstlenalp (nr. Meiringen)Ennetegg (in the Entlebuch)FlorenceJuly 26th or Sunday following.Lt. Sun. in Aug.,IstSun.inSep.Easter Eve ......March 25June 23 ", 24 .........Aug. 10,, 15Sept. 8............Carnival for three days before Ash- Wednesday.Festival of St. Meinrad.Festival of the Engel Weihe. Mass out of doors. Illuminations.Wrestling Matches.Wrestling Match.Fireworks in Piazza del Duomo. "Lo scoppio del Carro. "Annunciation. Festival at Annunziata Church.Eve ofSt. John. Races and Fireworks.St. John Baptist. High Mass in Duomo. Races. Illuminations.St. Lorenzo. Festival in all Churches inItaly bearing his name.Assumption of Virgin.vices. Decorations.Musical SerNativity ofVirgin. " Rificolone, " and decoration of street altars.Carnival preceding Lent.FESTIVALS, FETES, FAIRS, ETC. 343PLACE.Genazzano(Sabine Hills)Genoa ........... ...DESCRIPTION. DATE.April 26June 24Genzano (near Corpus Christi .Albano)GhentGratz2nd Sunday in July.Aug. 12 ......... Gravina(S.Italy) April 20 Hal (Belgium) ... Whit-Monday...LeipsicLiegeLocarno .........Jan. ISept. 29Pilgrimages.St. John Baptist. Relics carried in procession in Cathedral.Floral Festival-very picturesque.Festival. Kermesse.Pilgrimage to Mariazell Great Fair.Pilgrimages.Fair commences.Fair.Loreto.LouvainLucerne2nd Sunday after Great Fair begins. Lasts three weeks.Easter.Feb. 10Sept. 8........ Dec. 10 Feb. 9 ..May 26........2nd Sunday in July.Sunday after Ascension.Thursday before Ash-Wed.Lugo (near Ra- Sept. 1-19 venna)Malines ......... JulyManfredonia(near Foggia)Mantua.. ...Musical Festival commemorating butiof Grétry.Nativity of Virgin. Fair.Great Festival at the " Holy House, "St. Apollonia. Festival.Pilgrimages.Festival.Festival at Tell's Chapel. Crowds in boats.Quaint and curious procession.Fair.Festival of the Guilds every five years.Next in 1884.Ist. Sun. in July St. Rombauld. Festival.May 8 ..........Aug. 15Marseilles...... June 16Aug. 15Messina ......... June 3Aug. 15 .........Pilgrimage to Church of St. Michael.Assumption of Virgin. Pilgrimage to Sta. Maria delle Grazie.Festival of Sacred Heart, commemorating the staying of the plague,1720.Assumption ofthe Virgin. Procession of the silver statue.Festival of the Madonna della Lettera.Assumption ofVirgin. Festival of “ La Vara. "Meiringen...... 1st Sunday in Wrestling matches at the Stadtalp, andMilan ……………....... August.May 3Nov. 4............on Aug. 10 at the Tannalp.Invention of the Cross.through the city.ProcessionSan Carlo Borromeo. Grand Fête.Carnival. Preceding Lent344 APPENDIX.PLACE.Moncalieri(near Turin)Munich .........DATE.Oct. 29. Nov. Cattle Fair.14.Monday before Ash-Wed.Good Friday.Corpus Christi .Naploз........... Ist Sun. in May Sept. 19 to 26 .Dec. 16Ist Sun. in JuneAug. 15Ascension Day .Corpus Christi .Jan. 17Sept. 8Dec. 24 .........Whit- Sunday ... Whit-Monday... Easter Sunday .Nepomuk ....... May 16 .........Nivello(Belgium) Whit-Monday... Ober-AmmerOstend............gauPadua PalermoParis ............Pesth Pisa ................Ist Sunday in JuneCorpus Christi .Jan. 17 July 11-15 ......Sept. 4Jan. I ...July 14 Nov. 2.........Aug. 20 .....……….June 16 .........DESCRIPTION."9The " Metzersprung ' -a curious per formance.Pergolesi's Stabat Mater at Jesuits Church.Procession of Guilds. Open-air ser vices.Liquefaction of Blood of St. Januarius.Great Festival.Feast of his " Patrocinio"Festival of the Constitution. Fireworks at Villa Nazionale.Assumption of Virgin.Capodimonte.99Festival atPilgrimage to Massa Lubrense, near Sorrento.Fêtes at Scarfati and Carditello.Festival at Sta. Chiara. Parade oftroops.Feste di St. Antonio Abate. Blessing of domestic animals.Nativity of Virgin. Festival of the Vergine de Piedegrotta. A variety of curious entertainments, including the Tarantella dance." Presepe" ( i.e. , manger) in all churches and houses.Festival at Avellino.99 Shrine of Madonna dell' Arco.Pilgrimage to Antignano.Pilgrimage to birthplace of St. John Nepomuk (between Prague and Nu- remberg).Procession.And each succeeding Sunday till end of September. Passion Play. Every 10 years. Next representation, 1890.Blessing the sea.St. Anthony. Festival.Festival of Sta. Rosalia. Cathedral.illuminated on last day of festival.Pilgrimage to Monte Pellegrino.Circumcision. General holiday. Dis- play of étrennes.National Fête.AllSouls . Crowds visit Père la Chaise.Festival of St. Stephen of Hungary.Festival of "La Luminara." Once in three years.FESTIVALS, FETES, FAIRS, ETC. 345PLACE.PragueRapallo Genoa)RigiDATE.......... May 16-24 ......Sept. 28(near July 2-4..............Rome .........July 22..................Aug. 5.........Sept. 6Aug. 10DESCRIPTION.St. John Nepomuk. Grand Festival.Pilgrimages. Mass on great bridge.Festival of St. Wenceslaus.Festival of Madonna dell' Orto. II.lumination of the coast.Pilgrimage to church on Rigi. Wrest- ling Matches.Pilgrimage to Chapel Maria Zum Schnee, Klosterli.39 Wrestling Matches at Kaltbad.[ NOTE. -Many of the festivals have been altered, aban- doned, or become irregular, since Rome has become the capital of Italy. Those marked with an asterisk are still observed with great pomp. ]Jan. I""36,, 17 ,, 18,, 2099 21,, 25Feb. I............99 2 ............March 9 ."" 12" 19" 25April 23".........Circumcision. “ Papal Chapel" (i.e. , ser- vice at which the Pope is present) at the Sistine. Curious ceremony atSta. Maria in Campitelli-drawingfor patron saints.Fair of the Befano. St. Eustachio.Epiphany. Ara Coeli Church; pro- cession. Benediction with the SanteBambinofrom top ofsteps. Services in various churches throughout octave.St. Anthony's Day. Blessing the beasts.Chair of St. Peter. Procession with Pope, in St. Peter's. +St. Sebastian. Festival at Sant' Andrea della Valle.

• St. Agnes. Blessing the lambs, at Sta.

Agnese fuori Mura.

• Conversion of St. Paul.

his chains at San Paolo.

• St. Ignatius.

Exhibition ofThe interesting subter- ranean Church of San Clemente illuminated.Purification. Procession with candles in St. Peter's.Sta. Francesca Romana. Fête at theTor de' Specchi.St. Gregory. Festival at S. Gregorio.St. Joseph. Festival of S. Giuseppe.Annunciation. Papal Chapel. Pro- cession of white mule. Sta. Maria sopra Minerva.St. George. Exhibition of relicsGiorgio in Velabro.S.25 ......... St. Mark. Procession from St. Mark's to St. Paul's.346APPENDIX.DATE.April 30 May 399 26.................June 24 .......23 28 1000" 29 .........June 31Aug. I.........99 4" 5"9 15Sept. 8.........DESCRIPTION.St. Catherine. Festival at the Minerva.

• Invention of the Cross. Exhibition of relics at Sante Croce.
• St. Filippo Neri. Papal Chapel, Chiesa Nuova. (The rooms occupied by the saint are open on this day. )
• St. John Baptist. Papal Chapel at the Lateran. Fine musical service, and

on previous evening.Eve of St. Peter. Papal Chapel, St. Peter's. Dome illuminated.

• St. Peter. The Pope performs High Mass in St. Peter's. At Lateran exhibition of relics.

Monte Pincio , etc.Fireworks onThroughout the octave the Mamertine Prisons are illuminated.St. Ignatius Loyola.Gesù.

• St. Peter's Chains.

Pietro in Vinculi.Festival at theFestival at S.St. Dominic. Fête at the Minerva.Sta. Maria ad Nives. Cardinal's Chapel(ie. , service at which the Cardinalis present) at Sta. Maria Maggiore.During the function white flowers are showered from the roof of the Borghese Chapel.Assumption of the Virgin. Sta. Maria Maggiore. High Mass, in presence of the Pope. Benediction from balcony.

• Nativity of Virgin. Papal Chapel at Sta. Maria del Popolo.

Ist Sunday in Rosary Sunday. Procession from the October.Nov. I99 422 "9 23Dec. 3...........................Minerva. Fêtes, etc. , throughout the month on Sundays and Thursdays at Monte Testaccio.All Saints. Feast at S. Lorenzo.Curious scenes in the cemeteriesthroughout the octave.

• San Carlo Borromeo. Papal Chapel at San Carlo in Corso.
• Sta. Cecilia. Festival at Sta. Cecilia.

Illumination of Catacomb of St. Calixtus, where St. Cecilia was buried.

• St. Clemente. Festival and illumina- tions, Subterranean Church of S. Clemente.

St. Francis Xavier. Fête at the Gesù.FESTIVALS, FETES, FAIRS, ETC. 347PLACE.Rome 0030000DATE.Dec. 4..99DESCRIPTION. 3Military Mass at Sta. Maria Transpon- tina. Fête of artillerymen.8............ Immaculate Conception. Papal Chapel in the Sistine.", 24......... Christmas Eve. Procession of Holycrib in Sta. Maria Maggiore. Night services at Sistine, Vatican, etc.,, 25 ............ Christmas Day. Pope performs High Mass at St. Peter's. Festival of the""20............,, 27 .,, 31Holy Week66 Ser- ""Presepe at the Ara Cœli.mons by boys for ten subsequent days.tondo.St. Stephen. Fête, San Stefano Ro- "Te Deum" at the Gesu.Pope and Cardinals present.St. John the Evangelist. St. John Lateran...... St. Sylvester. At his church, and " Te Deum" at the Gesù.... Noble ladies wash the feet of pilgrimseach evening at the Trinita dei Pelle- grini.Wednesday. The " Tenebræ"-an - interesting service, at which the lights are gradually extinguished while the story of the Passion is rehearsed."Miserere" sung in the Sistine Chapel.Pope present.Thursday. Sistine Chapel, High Mass.Procession ofthe Pope to the Pauline Chapel, which is illuminated. St. Peter's-the Pope blesses the peoplefrom the balcony washes the feet of thirteen priests; serves thirteen priests at table. Tenebræ and " Miserere " in Sistine. Illumination of the various chapels.Good Friday. " Tenebræ" and " Mise- rere. " Adoration of relics in St. Peter's by the Pope.وو 66Saturday. Jews baptized in baptistery of Constantine. In the evening, ser- vice at St. Peter's.Easter Sunday, Pope borne to St. Peter's, where he celebrates Mass. Blowing of the silver trumpets. Benediction frombalcony. Illumination of dome.348 APPENDIX.PLACERome ... e....DATE.Easter Monday.CarnivalAsh Wednesday3rd Sunday in Lent.4th Monday in Lent.Palm Sunday ...Rogation Days .Ascension Day .DESCRIPTION.Fêtes, fireworks, etc. Begins Saturday- week before Ash Wed- nesday, and continues till Shrove Tuesday. Masquerades and horseracing daily. On the last evening,lighting and blowing out tapers.Ashes are sprinkled on the heads ofthe Cardinals in St. Peter's.. High Mass.Exhibition of relics at San Lorenzo.Feast of the Santa Quattro Incoronati at their Basilica.The Fope carried round St. Peter's.Consecration of Palms.Processions.Papal Chapel at Lateran. Benediction by the Pope from the balcony.[ The GREAT NATIONAL FESTAS, celebrated with music,illuminations , etc. , etc. , areIst Sunday in Celebration of the Constitution.June.Sept. 20Oct. 2..................Anniversary of the Liberation of Rome.Processions, etc. Anniversary of the Plebiscite.Etc. , etc. , etc.[ Every visitor should consult the Calendar, and also local authorities, as there is scarcely a day when there is not some ecclesiastical celebra- tion of interest going forward somewhere in Rome. ]Sachseln......... July 26Schopfheim (Switzerland)Seealp (nearJune 29..................Sept. 29Ist Sunday in Oct.July 6Appenzel)Sempach (near "" 8Lucerne)Siena April 30Sinigaglia October(S. Italy)Spezia ......... 99Wrestling Matches. (Sachseln is near Sanden, on the Brunig, Switzerland. )Wrestling Matches.99""99 Or Sunday following that date. Wrest- ling Matches.Commemoration of victory on battle- field.St. Catherine. Festival.July 2 & Aug. 16 Horse Races (Il Palio).Great Fair.Sorrento......... Aug. 15.........Fête at S. Maria a Castello. Illumina- tion of Positano.Assumption of Virgin. Festival at the Church of the Madonna di Soviore.FESTIVALS, FETES, FAIRS, ETC. 349DESCRIPTION.Illuminations.I'LACE DATE.St. Moritz(Switzerland)Sept. 2122 Festival and High Mass at Abbey of St. Moritz.Stadtalp (near 1st Sunday in Wrestling Match....Meiringen)Stuttgart Aug. Sept. 28 .........Tannalp (near Aug. 10 Meiringen)" ivoli May 8 Trent (Trento) June 26 Trieste..... Corpus Christi Turin .......... Sept. 8..Ascension DayAug. 15 .........April 25May IJune 28July 6Sept. 4Uetliberg (Zä- rich)Varallo (Lake of Orta)Venice............ .....Vienna.........Vire (Normandy)Vlaardingen (Holland)"" 8.................. .........Good Friday Easter Eve ..Easter Monday.Corpus Christi .Aug. 10 June 14Volksfest at Cannstadt.Wrestling Match.S. Michele. Festival.Festival of S. Vigilius.Processions. Festivals.Nativity of Virgin. Festival on the Superga.Children's Fête.Assumption of Virgin. Pilgrimage to the Sacro Monte.St. Mark's. Grand Festival.[ Festivals on all the Saints' Days, and a variety of Fêtes of local interest. ]Popular Fête in the Augarten.Pilgrims leave for Mariazell (reached from Brück on the Semmering Railway).Pilgrims return from Mariazell.Sta. Rosalia. Pilgrimage to Rosalien Chapel.Public Holiday at Mariabrunn, a short distance from Vienna.Holy Sepulchre in all the Churches.Great Procession of the Court in Imperial Palace.Pilgrimage to Antignano.Processions , Festivals, etc. Fête des Drapiers.Prayers for success of the herring fishery.General Holiday.boats set sail ."" 15Wengern Alp Ist Sunday in Wrestling Match Arg.Ypres (Belgium) Ist Sunday in Festival.Aug.Fleet of herring350 APPENDIX.Itinerary of Through Routes, Stations, and Distances.[ The intermediate distances are calculated from the starting point of each table. ]TABLE I.TURIN TO FLORENCE AND ROME.Turin AlensoMoncalieri Borgo S. Donnino Rignano IncisaTrofarello Castelguelfo Figline Cambiano Parma 155 S. GiovanniPessione S. Ilario MontevarchiVillanuova Reggio 172 BucineVillafranca Rubiera LaterinaBaldichieri Modena 187 PonticinoS. Damiano Castelfranco ArezzoAsti 36Samoggia Annone AnzolaCerro LavinoFrassineto Castiglione Fior.CortonaFelizzano Bologna Solero Borgo Panigale210 TuoroPassignano Alessandria 58 CasalecchioSpinetta Sasso Magione ElleraS. GiulianoTortonaMarzabottoVergato PontecuroneVogheraPerugia 395 Ponte S. Giovanni Riola Bastia Porretta AssisiCasteggio S. Giuletta BroniStradella Arena Po Castel S. GiovanniSarmato Rottofreno S. NicoloMolino del Pallone Spello Pracchia Foligno 409 Piteccio TreviPistoja 271 Spoleto San Pieto Terni 454 PratoCalenzano Narni Orte Sesto CastelloPiacenza 119 RifredBorghetto Stimigliano Montorso Pontenure Florence 292 Passo di Corese Cadeo Compiobbi Monte RotondoFiorenzuola Pontassieve RomeDistance, Turin to Rome, 523 miles.TurinROUTES, STATIONS, AND DISTANCES.TABLE 2.TURIN TO MILAN AND VENICE.351SettimoRhoMilanPeschiera94 Castelnuovo Brandizzo SommacampagnaChivasso 18 Limito Verona 187 Castelrosso Melzo S. MartinoTorazza di Verol Cassano CaldieroSaluggia Treviglio 114 S. Bonifacio Livorno Vidalengo Bianze MorengoLonigo Montebello Tronzano Romano TavernelleSanthia 38Calcio Vicenza 217 S. Germano Chiari PoianaVercelli 49 Rovato Padua 235 Borgo Vercelli Ponzana Ospitaletto BresciaPonte di Brenta145 DoloNovara 63 Rezzato Marano Trecate Ponte S. Marco Mestre 253 Magenta 76 Lonato Venice VettuoneTurin SturlaMoncalieri Quarto Trofarello Quinto Cambiano Nervi Pessione BogliascoDesenzano 161Distance, Turin to Venice, 258 miles.TABLE 3.TURIN TO GENOA, PISA, AND ROME.Fanglia OrcianoAcquabuona CecinaCastagnetto241Villanuova Pieve di Sori S. Vincenzo Villafranca Sori La Cornia Baldichieri Recco FollonicaSan Damiano Camogli PotassaAsti 36Santo Margherita Monte Pescali Annone Rapallo Grosseto 299 Cerro Zoagli Talamone Felizzano Chiavari 127 Albegna Solero Lavagna Alessandria 58 SestriLevante 132 MontaltoFrugarolo Spezia 161 Corneto Novi 71 ArcolaSerravalle SarzanaArquata AvenzaIsola del Cantone Ronco BusallaPontedecimo Bolzaneto RivaroloS. Pier d'ArenaMassaQuerceta PietrasantaViareggio Torre del Lago Ponte Galera Pisa 207 Magliana Colle Salvetti Rome 416OrbetelloCivitaVecchia 366 S. Marinella S. Severa FurbaraPalo Palidoro Maccarese323Genoa 104Distance, Turin to Rome 416 miles."352 APPENDIX.MilanRogoredo Melegnano TavazzanoTABLE 4.MILAN TO PIACENZA.LodiSecugnano CasalpusterlengoCodogno S. StefanoPiacenzaDistance, Milan to Piacenza, 43 miles. ( See Table 1. )TABLE 5.VERONA TO MODENA.Verona Dossobuono Villafranca Mozzecane RoverbellaSant' Antonio Rolo-NoviMantua 25 Carpi Borgoforte SolieraSuzzara ModenaReggiolo- Gonzaga Distance, Verona to Modena, 62 miles.TABLE 6.(See Table I. )VENICE TO BOLOGNA.Venice MonseliceMestre 5EsteMarano StanghellaDolo Rovigo 50 Ponte di Brenta ArquaPadua 23 PolesellaAbano PavioleMontegrotto S. Maria MaddalenaBattaglia PontelagoscuroFerrara Poggio Renatico Galliera San Pietro in CasaleSan Giorgio Castel Maggiore CorticellaBolognaDistance, Venice to Bologna, 101 miles. ( See Table 1. )TABLE 7.FLORENCE TO CHIUSI AND ROME.FlorenceCompiobbi Sieci PontassieveRignano IncisaFigline S. Giovanni Montevarchi Bucine Laterina72Ponticini Castiglione Arezzo 55 Alviano Frassineto Attigliano Castiglione BassanoCortona Orte 146Terontola 76 BorghettoCastigl. del Lago Stimigliano Panicale MontorsoChiusi 95 Passo Corese Ficulle Monte RotondoOrvieto 120 Rome 193Distance, Florence to Rome, 193 miles.ROUTES, STATIONS, AND DISTANCES.TABLE 8.ROME TO NAPLES.353RomeCiampino MarinoCeccano TeanoPofi Castro SparanisiCeprano 76 Pignataro Albano Isoletta Capua 135 Civita Lavinia Roccasecca S. MariaVelletri 26 Aquino Caserta 142 Valmontone M. Fort San Germane MaddaloniSegniAnagniSgurgola Ferentino FrosinoneRocca d'EvandroMignano Presenzano Caianiello Vairano RiardoDistance, Rome to Naples, 164 miles .Cancello 149 Acerra CasalnuovoNaplesBologna San Lazzaro MirandolaQuaderna Castel S. Pietro ImolaTABLE 9.BOLOGNA TO BRINDISI .Castel Bolognese Faenza ForliForlimpopoli Cesena GambettolaSavignano Romagna S. ArcangeloPorto Recanati Potenza Picena Porto CivitanovaS. Elpidio a Mare Porto S. Giorgio PedasoCupra Marittima GrottammareS. Benedet Tortoreto GiuliaMutignano Silvi Montesilvano69 Pescara 218 Francavilla OrtonaRimini Riccione Cattolica Pesaro Fano MarottaSinigaglia Case BruciateFalconara 122 S. SalvoAncona 127 Termoli Osimo LoretoRipaltaPoggio Imperiale Apricena San Severo MottaFoggia 327 OrlanovaCerignola Trinitapoli Barletta 366 TraniBisceglie MolfettaS. Vito Lanciano FossacesiaTorino di Sangro Casalbordino VastoCampomarino ChieutiGiovinazzoS. Spirito Bitonto Bari NoicattaroMola di BariPolignano a Mare Monopoli Fasano OstuniCarovigno S. Vito d'OtrantoBrindisiDistance, Bologna to Brindisi, 473 miles.40323354 APPENDIX.TABLE 10.BRINDISI TO NAPLES.Brindisi Cerignola San Vito d'Otranto OrtanovaPonte di BeneventoS. Lorenzo MaggioreCarovigno Foggia 146 Ostuni Cervaro Fasano GiardinettoSolopaca Telese AmorosiMonopoli Bovino Orsara DugentaNoicattaroPolignano a Mare Mola di BariBari 70 ArianoS. Spirito Bitonto Starza GiovinnazzoMontaguto Savignano GreciMontecalvoValle di Maddaloni MaddaloniCaserta Marcianise AversaS. Antimo Molfetta BuonalbergoBisceglie ApiceFratta Grumo Casoria Trani Ponte Valentino Naples Barletta 104 Benevento 208Trinitapoli VitulanoDistance, Brindisi to Naples, 268 miles.TABLE II .ANCONA TO ROME.AnconaFalconaraFossato Orte5 Gualdo TadinoChiaravalle NoceraIesi Foligno 76Borghetto Stimigliano MontorsoCastel Planio Trevi Passo CoreseAlbaccina FabrianoSerra S. QuiricoDistance, Ancona to Rome, 202 miles.Spoleto Terni 133M. Rotondo Rome Narni260APPENDIX. 355Programme of Routes.In order to facilitate the means of arranging tours and calculating expenses, the following selection is made from " Cook'sExcursionist, " but it must be distinctly borne in mind thatthese quotations are liable to constant change, and are onlyquoted in order that the tourist may be able to arrive at anapproximate calculation of expenses.The " Excursionist " is published monthly (price 2d. ), andwill be forwarded to any address on application; and the current number of the " Excursionist " itself, not the extractsgiven below, must be consulted by the tourist before orderingtickets. The specimens given here must of necessity be very meagre, from the fact that Messrs. Cook & Son's Italian ticketsinclude a series of over seventy different tours, embracing allthe chief cities of Italy, and providing for at least half a dozen routes from London. Some explanations as to thecombinationsand uses of these tickets are requisite, and the following notes may be found useful: -I. A series of tickets for Italy consists of four or five littlebooks of coupons, all printed with one page in English and theopposite in French, German, or Italian, according to the country for which they provide.II. The time allowed on the Italian circular coupons, fromthe date of their being stamped on arrival in Italy, is thirty to fifty days for that country alone, according to series. The other coupons, from London, etc., can be had for one or two monthsat the rate quoted each season. Breaks of journey are providedfor on the coupons at all chief places en route.III. The coupons from London to Paris (via Dieppe) require to be stamped and dated at the booking office at LondonBridge, Victoria, or Kensington . Parties starting from otherstations must present the ticket- books for the stamp of the356 EXAMPLES OF TOURS.booking-office clerk. The first book does not require stampingon returning from Paris.The books of coupons from Paris must be stamped and dated at the commencement of their use, and must be visé eachday at starting from the station where the day's journey comThe Italian coupons must be signed by the passengerbefore presentation for the first visa.mences.IV. In France, Italy and Switzerland, all registered luggagemust be paid for. On the Rhine and Brenner routes, 50 lbs. isallowed on each ticket if booked through at Cologne.V. All the tours can be worked in either direction, although,to avoid useless repetition, the itineraries are given in but one direction in the programme.VI. FIRST CLASS signifies that the tickets provide first-classrailway, interior of diligence, and saloon on steamboats; andSECOND CLASS, second- class railway, interior of diligence, andsecond cabin on steamboats, except when otherwise specially notified.VII. Those tickets affecting the Italian Lakes district willnot be in operation between October 31st and April 15th.EXAMPLES OF TOURS.IT is to be distinctly understood that the following tours aremerely given as examples; and if intending tourists do not findexactly what they require, if they will send the precise itineraryof the tour they contemplate to the Chief Office, LudgateCircus, with stamped directed envelope for reply, a specialquotation will be sent per first post.Tour A. (Going and returning via Paris and Mont Cenis).—London to Paris, Dijon, Macon, Culoz, Chambery, Mont Cenis,Turin, Alessandria, Genoa, Pisa, Rome, Naples, Ceprano, Rome,Civita Vecchia, Leghorn, Pisa, Empoli, Florence, Pistoja,Bologna, Ferrara, Padua, Venice, Verona, Milan, Turin, andback by Mont Cenis to Macon, Dijon and Paris, thence toLondon. Via Dieppe, for 2 months: Ist class, 18 6s. Ditto,2nd class, 13 3s. 6d. Via Calais 1st class, for 2 months,£20 6s. Ditto, 2nd class, for 2 months, £14 18s. 6d.Tour B. (Going by Paris and Mont Cenis, and returningSouth of France) .-The same as the above to Paris, by Montis to Turin, Alessandria, Genoa, Pisa, Rome, Naples,ano, Rome, Civita Vecchia, Leghorn, Pisa, Empoli,ace, Pistoja, Bologna, Ferrara, Padua, Venice, Verona,EXAMPLES OF TOURS. 357Milan, Turin, Genoa, and back by Nice, Marseilles, and Lyonsto Macon, Dijon, and Paris; from Paris to London, or viceversa: -Via Dieppe: 1st class, for 2 months, £17 13. Ditto,2nd class, for 2 months, £12 12s. 6d . Via Calais: Ist class,for 2 months, £19 13s. 6d .; 2nd class, for 2 months,£14 7s. 6d.Tour C. (Going by Paris, St. Gotthard or Splugen; returning by Mont Cenis and Paris) .- London, Paris, Troyes, Belfort,Basle, thence by the Splugen or St. Gotthard to Milan, Verona,Padua, Venice, Bologna, Florence, Foligno, Rome, Ceprano,Naples, Ceprano, Rome, Civita Vecchia, Leghorn, Pisa, Genoa,Alessandria, Turin, Mont Cenis, Macon and Dijon, to Paris,and thence to London. Good for fifty days in Italy, and goodtill used between Italy and London:-Via Dieppe: 1st class,£17 os. 6d.; 2nd class, £ 12 35. 64. Via Calais: 1st class ,19 os. 6d.; 2nd class, £13 18s. 6d.Tour D. (Going by Paris, St. Gotthard, or Splugen; returning by Basle and the Rhine) .-London, Paris, Troyes,Belfort, Basle, thence by the Splugen or St. Gotthard to Milan,Verona, Padua, Venice, Bologna, Florence, Foligno, Rome,Ceprano, Naples, Ceprano, Rome, Civita Vecchia, Leghorn,Pisa, Genoa, Alessandria, Turin, Milan, thence over Splugen orSt. Gotthard to Basle; thence to Freiburg, Baden- Baden, Heidelberg, Mayence, Coblence, Cologne, Brussels, Antwerp,Harwich, or, Cologne, Utrecht, Rotterdam, Harwich, London.Good for 50 days in Italy:-Going via Dieppe: Ist class,£20 19s.; 2nd class, £ 14 17s. Going via Calais: £22 6s. 6d.;2nd class, 15 18s.Tour E. (Going by Paris, St. Gotthard or Splugen; returning by the South of France and Paris) .- London, Paris,Troyes, Belfort, Basle, thence by the Splugen or St. Gotthard toMilan, Verona, Padua, Venice, Bologna, Florence, Foligno,Rome, Naples, Ceprano, Rome, Civita Vecchia, Leghorn, Pisa,Genoa, thence by the Coast Railroad to San Remo , Mentone,Nice, Cannes, Marseilles, Lyons, Macon, Dijon, Fontainebleau,Paris, London. Good for 60 days. Via Dieppe: Ist class,£17 135.; 2nd class, £12 13s. Via Calais: 1st class, £19 138.;2nd class, 14 8s.Tour F. (Going by Paris, S. Gotthard or Splugen; returning by the Brenner and the Rhine).-London, Newhaven,Dieppe, Rouen, Paris, Troyes, Belfort, Basle, thence by theSplugen or St. Gotthard to Milan, thence to Turin, Alessandria358 EXAMPLES OF TOURS.Genoa, Pisa, Leghorn, Civita Vecchia, Rome, Ceprano, Naples,Rome, Foligno, Florence, Bologna, Padua, Venice, Verona, overthe Brennerto Innsbruck, Munich, Mayence, Coblence, Cologne,Antwerp or Rotterdam to London. Tickets goodfor one monthto Basle, one month Basle to Milan, 50 days in Italy, one monthVerona to Munich, and one month Munich to London. Total,170 days. Going via Dieppe, 1st class, £22 7s.; 2nd class,£15 19s. Going via Calais, 1st class, £23 145.; 2nd class, £17.Tour G. (Going by the Luxembourg route; returning byMont Cenis) .-London, Harwich, Antwerp, Brussels, Namur,Jemelle, Arlon, Luxembourg, Metz, Strasburg, Basle; fromthence, either by Splugen or St. Gotthard, to Como, Milan,Verona, Venice, Padua, Bologna, Florence, Foligno, Rome,Ceprano, Naples, Ceprano, Rome, Civita Vecchia, Leghorn,Pisa, Genoa, Alessandria, Turin, Mont Cenis Tunnel, Chambery, Culoz, Macon, Dijon, Paris, London. Good for 50 daysin Italy, and good till used between Italy and London. Returning via Dieppe, 1st class, £20 6s.; 2nd class, 14 2s.Returning via Calais, 1st class, £21 13s.; 2nd class, £15 3s.Tour H. (Going by the Luxembourg route; returning by the S. of France and Paris) .-London, Harwich, Antwerp,Brussels, Namur, Jemelle, Arlon, Luxembourg, Metz, Strasburg, Basle; from thence, either by Splugen or St. Gotthard,to Como, Camerlata, Milan, Verona, Venice, Padua, Bologna,Florence, Foligno, Rome, Ceprano, Naples, Ceprano, Rome,Civita Vecchia, Leghorn, Pisa, Genoa, Albenga, San Remo,Bordighera, Vintimille, Mentone, Nice, Cannes, Toulon,Marseilles, Avignon, Lyons, Macon, Dijon, Fontainebleau, Paris,London. Goodfor 50 days in Italy, 30 days between Mentoneand Paris, andfrom Paris to London at any time. Returningvia Dieppe, 1st class, £21 9s.; 2nd class, £15 6s. 6d. Returing via Calais, 1st class, £22 16s.; 2nd class, £16 7s. 6d .Tour I. (Going by the Luxembourg route; returning byBasle and the Rhine) .-London, Harwich, Antwerp, Brussels,Namur, Jemelle, Arlon, Luxembourg, Metz, Strasburg, Basle;from thence, either by Splugen or St. Gotthard, to Como, Milan,na, Venice, Padua, Bologna, Florence, Foligno, Rome,Naples, Ceprano, Rome, Civita Vecchia, Leghorn,enoa, Alessandria, Turin, Milan, Como; over theor St. Gotthard, to Basle, Freiburg, Appenweir (forg), Baden- Baden, Heidelberg, Mayence, Coblence,Brussels, Antwerp, Harwich, London, or Cologne,EXAMPLES OF TOURS. 359Utrecht, Rotterdam , Harwich, and London. Tickets good forone month as far as Basle, one month Basle to Milan, 50 days inItaly, one monthfrom Milan to Basle, and one month from Basleto London. Total, 170 days. 1st class, £21 os. 6d.; 2ndclass, £14 13s. 6d.Tour J. (Going by the Luxembourg route; returning bythe Brenner and the Rhine) .-London, Harwich, Antwerp,Brussels, Namur, Jemelle, Arlon, Luxembourg, Metz, Strasburg, Basle, thence over the Splugen or St. Gotthard to Milan,thence to Turin, Alessandria, Genoa, Pisa, Leghorn, CivitaVecchia, Rome, Ceprano, Naples, Rome, Foligno, Florence,Bologna, Padua, Venice, Verona, over the Brenner to Innsbruck,Munich, Mayence, Coblence, Cologne, Antwerp, or Rotterdamto London. Tickets good for one month to Basle, one month Basleto Milan, 50 days in Italy, one month Verona to Munich, andone month Munich to London. Total, 170 days. Ist class,£22 2s. 6d.; 2nd class, £15 Is. 9d.Tour K. (Going by Holland, Belgium, the Rhine, andSwitzerland; returning by Switzerland and the Rhine) .— London,Harwich, to Antwerp, Brussels, Liège, Verviers, Aix- la- Chapelle, Cologne, or via Harwich, Rotterdam, Utrecht, Cologne,Bonn, Coblence, Bingen, Mayence, Heidelberg, Baden- Baden,Basle; from thence, either by Splugen or St. Gotthard, to Como,Milan, Verona, Venice, Padua, Bologna, Florence, Foligno,Rome, Ceprano, Naples, Civita Vecchia, Leghorn , Pisa, G noa,Turin, Milan, Camerlata, Como to Switzerland by St. Gotthard,or Splugen, to Basle, and return via Freiburg, Baden- Baden,Heidelberg, Darmstadt, or by Mannheim, and Worms, toMayence, Cologne, Antwerp, or Rotterdam, Harwich, andLondon. Tickets good for 30 days to Milan, 50 days in Italy, 30Milan to Basle, and 30 Basle to London. Total, 130 days. Istclass, £21 18s. 6d.; 2nd class £15 7s.Tour L. (Going by Holland, Belgium, the Rhine, andSwitzerland; returning by Mont Cenis and Paris) .— London,Harwich, Antwerp, Brussels, Verviers, Aix-la- Chapelle, Cologne;or via Harwich, Rotterdam, Utrecht, Cologne, Bonn, Coblence,Bingen, Mayence, Heidelberg, Baden- Baden, Freiburg, Basle;thence, either by Splugen or St. Gotthard, to Como, Milan,Verona, Venice, Padua, Bologna, Florence, Foligno, Rome,Ceprano, Naples, Civita Vecchia, Leghorn, Pisa, Genoa, Alessandria, Turin, Mont Cenis Tunnel, Chambery, Culoz, Macon,Dijon, Paris, London. Good for 30 days to Milan, 50 days in360 EXAMPLES OF TOURS.Italy, and 30 days Turin to London. Total, 110 days. Returning via Dieppe, 1st class, £20 10s.; 2nd class, 14 11s. 6d.Returning via Calais, 1st class, £21 175.; 2nd class, £15 12s. 6d.Tour M. (Going by Holland, Belgium, the Rhine, andSwitzerland; returning bythe S. of France and Paris ) .- London,Harwich, Antwerp, Brussels, Liège, Verviers, Aix-la-Chapelle,Cologne; or via Harwich, Rotterdam, Cologne, Bonn, Coblence,Bingen, Mayence, Heidelberg, Baden- Baden, Freiburg, Basle;thence, either by Splugen or St. Gotthard, to Como, Milan,Verona, Venice, Padua, Bologna, Florence, Foligno, Rome,Ceprano, Naples, Civita Vecchia, Leghorn, Pisa, Genoa, SanRemo, Mentone, Nice, Cannes, Marseilles, Lyons, Macon, Dijon,Fontainebleau, Paris, London. Good for 30 days to Milan, 50days in Italy, and 30 days Genoa to London. Total, 110 days.Returning via Dieppe, 1st class, £22 IS.; 2nd class, £15 15s.Returning via Calais, 1st class, £23 8s.; 2nd class, £ 16 16s.Tour N. (Going by Holland, Belgium, the Rhine, andSwitzerland; returning by the Brenner and the Rhine) .-London, Harwich, Antwerp, Brussels, Liège, Verviers, Aix-laChapelle, Cologne, or via Harwich, Rotterdam, Cologne, Bonn,Coblence, Bingen, Mayence, Heidelberg, Baden- Baden, Freiburg,Basle; thence either by Splugen or St. Gotthard, to Como,Milan, thence to Turin, Alessandria, Genoa, Pisa, Leghorn,Civita Vecchia, Rome, Ceprano, Naples, Rome, Foligno,Florence, Bologna, Padua, Venice, Verona, over the Brenner toInnsbruck, Munich, Mayence, Coblence, Cologne, Antwerp orRotterdam to London. Tickets good for one month to Basle, onemonth Basle to Milan, 50 days in Italy, one month Verona to Munich, and one month Munich to London. Total, 170 days.Ist class, via Antwerp, £23 Is.; 2nd class, £16 5s. Ist class,via Rotterdam, £22 19s.; 2nd class , £16 4s. 6d.Tour O. (Going bythe Brenner; returning by Mont Cenisand Paris).- London to Harwich, Antwerp or Rotterdam,Cologne, Mayence, Darmstadt, Aschaffenburg, Munich, Innsbruck, Botzen, Verona; Verona to Venice, Padua, Bologna,Florence, Foligno, Rome, Naples, Civita Vecchia, Leghorn,Pisa, Genoa, Alessandria, Turin, Mont Cenis, Paris, London.Goodfor 30 days to Verona, 50 days in Italy, and 30 days Turinto London. Total, 110 days. Returning via Dieppe, 1st class,£21 11s. 6d.; 2nd class, 15 9s. Returning via Calais, Istclass, 22 18s. 6d.; 2nd class, £16 10s.EXAMPLES OF TOURS. 361Tour P. (Going by the Brenner; returning by the Southof France and Paris).-London to Harwich, Antwerp, or Rotterdam, Cologne, Mayence, Darmstadt, Aschaffenburg, Munich,Innsbruck, Botzen, Verona, Padua, Venice, Ferrara, Bologna,Pistoja, Florence, Foligno, Rome, Ceprano, Naples, Rome,Civita Vecchia, Leghorn, Pisa, Genoa, Albenga, San Remo,Bordighera, Vintimille, Mentone, Nice, Cannes, Toulon,Marseilles, Avignon, Lyons, Macon, Dijon, Fontainebleau,Paris, London. Good for 50 days in Italy. Total, 110 days.Returning via Dieppe, 1st class, £22 10s.; 2ndclass, 16 3s. 6d.Returning via Calais, 1st class, £23 16s. 6d.; 2nd class,£16 4s. 6d.Tour Q. (Going by Berlin and Vienna, returning by Paris).-London, Brussels, Cologne, Elberfeld , Soest, Magdeburg,Berlin, or Dusseldorf, Minden, Hanover, Stendal, Berlin,Leipsic, Chemnitz, Dresden, Bodenbach, Prague, Vienna, Gratz,Trieste, Cormons, Venice, Bologna, Florence, Foligno, Rome,Ceprano, Naples, Ceprano, Rome, Civita Vecchia, Leghorn,Pisa, Genoa, Modane, Paris, London, or vice versa. Goodfor 50days in Italy. Going via Harwich and returning via Dieppe,Ist class, 26 3s. 9d.; 2nd class, £ 18 19s. 6d. Going andreturning via Calais, 1st class, £28 11s. 9d.; 2nd class,£21 os. 6d.Tour R. (Going by Berlin and Vienna; returning by theSouth of France and Paris) .- London, Brussels, Cologne,Elberfeld, Soest, Magdeburg, Berlin, or Dusseldorf, Minden,Hanover, Stendal, Berlin, Leipsic, Chemnitz, Dresden, Bodenbach, Tetschen, Vienna, Gratz, Trieste, Cormons, Venice,Bologna, Florence, Foligno, Rome, Ceprano, Naples, Ceprano,Rome, Leghorn, Pisa, Genoa, San Remo, Mentone, Nice,Cannes, Toulon, Marseilles, Lyons, Paris, London. Good for50 days in Italy. Going via Harwich and returning via Dieppe,1st class, 27 15s. 9d.; 2nd class, 20 3s. 9d. Goingand returning via Calais, 1st class, £30 3s. 9d.; 2nd class,£22 4s. 9d.IMPORTANT NOTICE.THOMAS COOK AND SON's tickets are available forone or morepassengers to travel by any train any day, anddo not compel the holders to travel in parties.INDEX.ACCIANOAcerenza Acerra·· 305 • 170PAGE175 Anio, The Antignano Antium .·•PAGE58 250 163 Aci Castello • 334 Antrodocco Aci RealeAcqua Acetosa AcquabonaAcqua Caponi• 334 · 155 Appendix · 20 • 260 Acquaviva • 318 Agnone . ·Agri, The 337ApiceApricena Aquila Aquino Arco Felice177 180• 341 178. 175 . 166. 264320 Arcola ΙΟ •Ajaccio 324 Ardore • 32299 to Bastia 325 to 327 Arezzo 39 Alanno • 174 Alatri •Albaccina 16538Badia di S. Fiora Cathedral• 4I · 4IChurches • 4I Albano 158, 163 Palaces · 4I Alban Mountains 157 Albegna . 21ArianoAriccia • · 180· 159 Alessano • 318 Ariminum · 29Alghero . 328 Ali 333 Asciano .Alicuri 332 Alife 181 Ascoli ·Alsium 22 Asinello, The . Altamura 318Arno Valleyto GrosetoAspromonte Mountains392166173 178 322 Amalfi 305 Assemini 328 Amendolara 320 Assisi . 49AndriaAngri""""•Amendolea Amorosi .Anagni Anapo, The Ancona •to Rometo Naples322 Churches • 54 181 Frescoes of Giotto · 54164339 · 36Description .Monastery of the FranciscansS. Maria degli Angeli .5051 • 54 • 38 Astura • . 163170 Aterno • . 175 · • • 313 Atrani · • 305 • • • 302 Atri • 174364 INDEX.PAGEBaronisi .Bastia 49 Bastia (Corsica)Battipaglia Bay of ChiaiolellaRapallo Beffi Bella Muro326 • 304 264 • 9175 • 304 Bel Caro • 66 Belizzi Benevento .Bernalda• . 304 · 180• 305 Bianconuovo • 322Attidium Avellino .Avernus Lake Aversa •Bacoli BadolatoBagnacavallo Bagnoli .Bagnolo38 Buccino .PAGE304 311 Bucine 39 • 259 Buffaloria di Cassano . 320 181 Buonalbergo • . 180 Bussi . . 174 . 261322 Caere . 16223 Cagliari . • 328 • 250 · 318 Caianiello Caiazzo .Baiæ • 260 Balvano .Calatapiano. 168 . 181• 334 • 304 Caldare .Baragiano • 304 Barbagia, La · 329 Bari to Taranto . 318 Barletta • 312 311CalisanoCalore Valley Calvi (Corsica)99 CamogliCampagna Campagna FeliceCampana Campedda, LaCampi Elyssii Campobasso Campo d'Annibale Campo di Procida Campo Marino CancelloCandela 170, 310 179• 329 · 305 • 180to Bastia • 326· 3269•. 175 168 •· 321Campello·• 328 • • 56 . 262·178 158 262 · 178Bicocca • 337 Canicatti • 329 Biferno, The 178 Cannæ • 313 Bisceglie 314 Cannole • 318 Bitetto 318 Canosa • 313 BitontoBlue Grotto, Capri 314 Cantara River • 334 310 Capestrano 175 Bocagnano 325 Capo di Leuca 318Bogliasco 9 Capo Miseno 262Bologna 22 Capo S. Alessio . 333to Rome (by Ancona) 22 Capo Spartivento · 322 Bolsena . 70 Capraja . • 323 Bomarzo 70 Capri . • 309 Bonassola 9 Capua 168Bonifacio • 327 Carapella, The • 312Borghetto 57 Caravigno •Borghetto Tuoro Bova Bovalino Bovino Bracciano315 • 43 Cariati • 321 • • 322 Carnaiola • 322 Carotto . •• 68 308· 179 Carrara . • ΙΟ• 162 Casa Baldi · 162Brancaleone • 322 Casa Inglese, Etna . •Brindisi • 315 " to Otranto . 317Casalbordino Casalnuovo •335 178• 170INDEX. 365Casamicciola .Case Bruciate .Caserta Casino Casoria •·Cassano . •Castagneto Castel Bolognese26536 • 170, 181182318, 320 Colles Leucogaci 20• 23 "" to Ancona • 27PAGE166Civita Nuovo .Civita Vecchia cl*tumnus, Source of Clusium .Colle Salvetti .Compiobbi Conca, The Cook's Travelling Coupons "9 to Ravenna · "" 23 Contursi"" d'Asso • 70 Corfinium99 del Monte • Cori"" Fidardo Corigliano 22 Fiorentino Corioli ••PAGE172 • 2156682025739 • 32• 7• 304 175Fusano Gandolfo Planio •""""99 S. Angelo S. PietroCastellamare Castellaneta Castelli .Castelvetrano•• 22· 307 318 • . 174313 17158 16315938 177Corneto .Cornia, LaCorniglia Corsica Corteto Vico .Cortona Cosa ••162, 154318, 321 • 163 • 21 • 20 • 9• 324 325 326• 329 CotroneCastro. 165, 318 CrucoliCatania 334 Cumæto Syracuse . 337 Cupra Marittima Catanzaro • 322 Caulonia • 322 Cava, LaCustom-house ExaminationDecimomannu .• 303 Ceccano .Cecchina, La .Cecina••Cento Camarelle, The Ceprano Cerboli Cerreto Certaldo Cervaro Cesena Cetona ••Chiana Valley168, 179, 312 •28 Esino Valley 68 Etna •66 Equense .Chiaravalle 38 Chiascio Valley 38 FabrianoChiavari 9Chieti 174 Chiusi 68Churches, Visiting Ciampino Cicolano Città Ducale Citta di Castello Civita Lavinia7163 • 177 177Faenza •fa*gnana Falconara Falls of the LirisFanglia Fano Fasano49 Faventia163 FeesDeiva •• 163 165 Dugenta .20 Eboli 261 Ellera 165 Elmas 323 Emissarius 18158 Empoli English Churches Esino River4221• 321 • 321 • 263 173 • 3• 3289181304 • 43 328 1595883838• 335 308•3828. 175 • 36 165203631527366 INDEX.Ferrandino Ferentino • 305 164PAGEGirgenti Giulia Nuova .PAGE • 340 • 173 Fermo 173 Godo • 23 Fiesole • 39 Gorgona •· 323 Figline 39 Gragnano • 308 Filicuri Fiumicino Florence RomeBy Arezzo By Siena Foce del FusaroFoggia332 Gran Sasso, The • 163 GrassanoGratuities39 Gravina .. 174 305 •· 325 • 58 Greccio .262 Grosseto178 Grottammare19 to Brindisi • 312 to Otranto • 312 Foligno • 38 ""Follonica Fondi • 21 19Grottole .Grotto Dragonara di Pietro della PaceEgeria• 177 • 21 • 173 • 305 . 262264157 168 Ferrata 158ForioFontecchio Forest of HamæForli •Forlimpopoli Formia .Fortore, The .Fossato .· 175 99 of the Sybil . 263 · 264 Sejano • 250 · 266 99 Volunni ·• 28 Grumo 49318 • 28• 168 Herculaneum . 267 178 Hotels 638 Hotel Coupons FramuraFrancavilla 9Frascati .Fratta-Grumo .Frosinone178157, 163 · 182Il Gombo 18Il Tempigno 174 Imola • 22 · 165 Fuorigrotta • · 250 Furbara • 22 IschiaIncisa Interamna Livinas•Islands:-• 39 168 266Gaeta • 168 Corsica • 324 Galatina • 317 Elba • 323 Galera · 162 Ischia . 264Galugnano • 318 Nisida 250Gallipoli Genoa to Rome 317 Procida 2649 Sardinia •· 327 Genzano 159 Sicily . · 329 Gerace 322 Isola della SalineGiacomo Calopezzati 321 SacraGiardignano 318 Isoletta .Giardinetto 179 Giardini . • 333 Jesi Giarre · 334 Giarre Riposto · 334 Lacco •Ginosa • 320 Lecce •Gioia · 318 Lago Albano •Gioiosa • 322 99 Giovinasso • 314d'Agnano Lake Arnsanctus • ·•··•·332. 163 . 16538266 318 158 250 . 180iglio • • 323 99 Avernus •. 259INDEX. 367PAGE PAGELake Chiusi 67 Maleventum • 180"" di Patria 264 Manfredonia • 179"" Fucinus • 175 Mangano • • 334 Fusaro . 262 "" Manopello • 174 Lessina . 178 Mantauro •• 322 Licola 264 Marano, The .99 Lucrinus 258 Marcianise •Monte Pulceano · 67"" Nemi • 159 Telese · 181 TrasimenoLagni Canal Lamoni River Lanciano• 43 · 181• 28• 178Mare Morto Maremme, TheMarianopoli MarinoMarmore, Le .Marotto .Marsala .•Language 2 MassaLanuvium • 163 Mascali •Laterina • 39 Massafra ••. 181 . 26120329 158, 163 177• 36 329 IO, 21334 € 319173Latium, Coast of 162 Matelica Laura 170, 310 Mazzara .Lavagna 9 MelfiLazzaro . • 322 Melito •Leghorn 18 Mellili99•Lentini99to Civita Vecchia by Seato Rome by Rail Le MarmoreLete Vivo LettereLettojanni• 20 Mercogliano Messina• 20 · 177 •· 337 MetapontoMessina to Catania .Meta305, 320• 38 • 329 • 305 • 322 • 337 • 312 • 331 · 333 308· 173 • 308 · 333Mignano Miliscola Militis Schola LevantoLicata .. 9 Minori •329 MirandolaLinguaglossa Lionardo, TheLipari:9 IslandsLiris, Falls of the LiternumLoreto •Lucera . •37, 171Miscana RavineMisenumMisterbiancoModugno Mola di Bari334 Mirto Crosia .337 332 332 Miseno• 165 • 264. 168 • 262 • 26230522321 · 180261 262 · 336 318315 314 Lucignano Luggage LugoMaccarese MaddaloniMagione MaglianaMaglie••Maiella MountainsMaiori •179 Molfetta67 Molina3•Monastery of S. Osservanza23 Moneglia Money Money Table .22 Monopoli• 175 · 66 · 9• 3• 3• 315 170, 18143•22318 174MontaltoMontagulo MontalbanoMont Ciminius Monte Amaro21, 173 17932070• 174 · 305 "" Amiata358 INDEX.""21"19Monte AnticoArgentarioCampanaCapannePAGE PAGE • 67 Montevarchi 39 • 21 Montone 28Barbaro 258 Moropano 266258 Mosquitoes 8323 Motta 178 21 Casino . 166 Muro Lucano .304 Caira 99 168 Mutignano . 174 Cavo 158 Cigliano 258 "9 Circello 163 Naples:-"" Conero 37 Corno . 174Accademia PontanianaAlbergo dei Poveri •238 248 Cristo .della Ascencione di Cetona323 Aquarium . - 245 173 Archives . 239 • 67 Arrival at Naples . 183 332 . 266 Biblioteca Brancacciana . 238 dei Gerolimini . 239Nuovo. •Ponte di Chiaja. 184. 245243 dell' Immacolatella 243,, della Maddalena della Sanità Cab FaresDinnamariEpomeo Forlino 164 Gamdo . 264 del Municipio . 239 dell' Universita . 239Gargano . 179 Boats .Gennaro . 162 Botanic Garden:Giordano 320 Bridges:-Giovi 163 Luco 57 Mario . • 155 258 258 •67 Camaldoli• 243 · 243 183 • • 250 . 248 • 248.. 242 • · 242 • 242 241 • 242 • 247238Nuovo (Pozzuoli) .Olivete Maggiore di Procida Pescali del Oro Pulciano RenosoRiggioni Rotaro Rosso .RotondoS. Angelo Sibilla·26221, 67 · 325•67325 • 59 • 2669, 38••57 308173 257, 332Campo Santo Nuovo29 99 Vecchio Castles:-Capuano .del Carmine dell' OvoNuovo Sant'Elmo Charitable Institutions Chinese College .Churches:-S. Agnello Maggiore S. Angelo a Nilo•Sta. Anna de Lombardi""" SiccioSomma 57" Soracte 57" Taburno 181 L'Ascencione Vulture • 312 Montecalvo • • 180 S. Brigida • 39 • 70Montefalco Montefiascone MontepelosoTontelupo nt Milleto .torso atesilvano .•••30558 181• 57 • 174S.S. Apostoli •S. Carlo All' Arena .S. Caterina a Formello Cathedral S. Chiara Crocelle .Duomo•S. Domenico Maggiore207 207 • 200 207 • 207 • 207 • 207 • 208 • 191 · 194 • 208 • 196 191INDEX. 369-Naples (continued): —Churches: -S. Filippo Neri 198 S. Francesco di Paola 207 Marinella, The S. Gesù Nuovo 207 Market, TheS. Giacomo degli Spagnuoli 207 S. Giovanni a Carbonara . 199S. Giovanni Evangelista . 208 S. Giovanni MaggioreS. Giovanni da Papacoda S. Giuseppe a Chiaja S. Gregorio Armeno L'IncoronatiS. Lorenzo ·PAGENaples (continued): -Lava OrnamentsLibraries, PrivatePAGE• 184 239 • 244 188Medico-Chirurgical College 238 Molo, The • 244 Museum, The National 209 208 National Library, The 228208 208 National Museum, The 209 Observatory 245 208 Omnibuses . • • 184 · 201 Oysters • • 184 • 202 Palaces:S. Maria degli Angeli 208 Astroni S. Maria dell' Annunziata 202 Capodimonte S. Maria del Carmine 207 Caserta239, 250 • 240• 239 S. Maria della Catena S. Maria della Grazie S. Maria La Nuova S. Maria dell' Pianto S. Maria di Piedigrotta• 208 Favorita . 239 208 Fondi • 241 • 203 Gravina 241 208 Miranda 241 208 Quisisana 239 S. Maria della Pietà dei Reale 239Sangri . 208 Sant' Angelo • 241S. Maria donna Regina . 208 208• 203 208• 200• • 207 208 · 207 · • 208 • 208• • 207 • 206 • 208• • 208 • 238S. Maria della Sanità S. Martino Monte della Misericordia .Monte OlivetoS. Paolo Maggiore S. Pietro ad Aram S. Pietro a Maiella S. Pietro Martire S. Pietro e Paolo del Sannazaro .S. Severino e Sosio .S. Teresa.S. Teresa a Chiaja College of Music Corso Vittorio EmanueleDuomo Environs of Naples Festivals and Fêtes Grotto del Cane •Grotto di PosilipoHistory of Naples 99•S. Januarius Largo del Castello• 244 . 191 • 248 184, 246 • • 250 249 189 • 194 • 24499 del Mercato 188, 24499 del Plebescito • • 24499 di S. Domenico • 244"9 Medina • 244Principal Sights of Naples . 185 PurchasesQuay Partenope Quay of S. Lucia Railway Stations Riviera di ChiajaRoyal Society San Carlo (Teatro)Situation of Naples Strada di Roma .Street-life in Naples Teatro di San Carlo Theatres•187, 244 • 238•245 187• 187, 244 • • 188• · 244 • 184, 244 • • • 244 • • 248 Toledo, The Tomb ofVirgil University . • 238Piazza del Municipio Picture Gallery 244 • 229"Porta Alba .Capuana del Carmine243 243 "" 243 99 Medina · 243 Nolana · • • 243 " San Gennaro • · 243 Porto Grande • • 243 "" Militare • • 243 99 Piccolo • • 243 Post Offices 185184 • • 244 • • 244 18424370 INDEX.Naples (continued):—Villa NazionaleZoologieal Station Naples to Avellino .PAGEPaganicaPAGE. 175 • 244 Paganico · 245 Paglia Valley .310 Palagianello •"" Eboli 302 Palagiano •"" Nola. 310 Palermo6768319319 339 Pompeii Palestrina 161, 164 "" " By Rail 266 PalidoroBy Road 266 Palizzi • 22322 Nardo 317 Palma Narni · 57 Palmaiolo 311 323 Naxos 334 Palo Nemi 159 Panfilo Nera • 177 Panza Nera Valley · 57Nettuno .Nervi Neto PlainNicolosiNisida, Island of Nizza di Sicilia· 9• 321 . 163 99 • 335 · 250Passignano Passo del Mercante"" di Correse MartinoPassports Paterno .•• 333 Pedaso •Nocera NoicataroNolaNorchia .Norma38, 302 Pellaro315 Pentima .170, 310 Pesaro • 70 Perugia • 164 Antiquarian Museum Nova Siri Nucara .Ofanto, The Olevano• 320 Cathedral ·• 320 ChurchesDescription22• 175 26643 • 322 • 57 • 337I336 • 173 322 175 • 32 • 4447 • 45 • 4744 · 312 Palaces 162 PinacotecaOnsar Orbetello • 179 · 21 Orciano .Orcia River Ordona· 20· 67 179University Pescara .Pescara to Popoli Petrella .Pianosa .·• 174 • 175484545. 177· 323 Oristano Orta Orta Novo Orte OrtonaOrvieto Osilo Osimo Ostente, The .Ostia328 312Pianerottolo Piediluco • 179 • 177 312 . 57 • 178Pievi di Sori PietrasantaPicena9• 68 PietrapennataΙΟ172322Ostuni ·OtrantoOtricoli .PæstumPagani •328 37, 170 •·•·178 5 162315 31857• 306PiedimontePietra GattaPignataro Piombino Pisa:-Academy of Arts Baptistery Botanic Garden Campo Santo • 302 Cascine181, 334•· 305 168 • 20• 15 · 12 • 17 · 1417INDEX. 371Pisa (continued):-Cathedral Churches

-

Duomo House of GalileoIl Gombo 18Leaning Tower 13 Guides•PAGE1217172783Pompeii (continu:d): —Gate of Stabiæ Gates .Granary, Public Great Theatre Greek TemplePAGE•5 286 • 300 · 280• 284 284 278 PalacesPisciarelli, The 17 House of Adonis . 296257 99 Albino .Pisciatello, The 298 28 "" Apollo • 297 Piscina Mirabilis 261 99 Ariadne 291 Pizzo de Sevo 173 "" Castor and Pollux 296 Plan of Tour . 99 Pofi 165 99Poggibonsi 58 99Championnet Cornelius Rufus Glaucus• 283 • 288294 Poggio Imperiale 178 99 Great Fountain 295 Polignano a Mare 315 99 Holconius 288 Policoro . 320 99 Polla, The ΙΟ 99 Julius Polybius Marcus Lucretius • 297 291Pompeii:- "" Meleager•• 296 Academy of Music 297 Pansa · 295 Admission •Ærarium 278 "" Sallust • 297 • 282 99 Siricus . • 290Bakehouse .Basilica, TheAmphitheatre Aqueduct of FontanaBaker's ShopBaths, Old Public"" StabianBefore the Eruption Bidental Casa del Balcone Pensile Chalcidicum Children's Tomb• 288 "" the Anchor . 294 286 "" the Augustales . 280 • 297 the Black Walls • 292 • 297 99 the Centaur · . 296 • 283 the Chase • . 291 • 292 the Faun • ·. 293 · 289 39 · 271 • 284 99 • 290the Female Dancers 297theFiguredCapitals 292 the Grand Duke ofTuscany • 292 · 282 99 the Labyrinth • 295 300 99 the Little Fountain 295 Circular Temple .City Walls .· 284 99 the Musician 298 298 99 the Nereids 296 Cloth Market Crypto Porticus, The .Curiæ .Curia Isiaca Custom HouseEarly History of.Eumachia •Excavations at Forum, The Forum Nundinarium282 the Sculptor . 286• 282 99 the Surgeon . 298 282 "" the Three Floors 298 287 99 the Tragic Poet • 294 • 298 the Vestals · • 298 • 271 99 the Wild Boar 283 . 282• • 276 99 with the Balcony Howthe Cities were Buried 290 275 • 279 Lupanar, The • . 290 • 285 Measures, Standard • • 280 Fountain, The • 291 Museums · • • 302 Fullonica, The Funeral Triclinium Gate of Herculaneum .Nola. 294 Odeum · • 285 • 299 • 300Old Public Baths Pantheon • 292 • · 280"" · 291 Plan of Description • 278372 INDEX.Pompeii (continued):Porta della MarinaPorta di Ercolano Prison, The Public Granary Ramparts •Round TombSchool, The-•School of the Gladiators School of Verna .Senaculum .Small Theatre, or OdeumSoap Shop .Soldiers' BarracksStabian Thermæ .Standard Measures Strada dell' Abbondanza· • 278PAGEPompeii (continued): -Tomb of Nævoleia TychePAGE• • 298 280 280• 299""99 Quietus .Scaurus.· 299 · • 299 "" Servilia . ·• 299 • 298 • 299 • 287 Villa of CiceroVicolo del Balcone Pensile99 dei Dodici Dei .290 • 283 • 299285 Diomedes • 300 282 Walls . • · 302 281 Ponta della Valle • 181285 Pontassieve • 39 • 297 Pontecorvo 166· • 285 • ..289 99 . 280 . 282 "" S. Giovanni .""301Ponte di Benevento Galera .ValentinoPontecagnano Ponte San Cono181· 22 · 49 • 180• • 304 • · 304 • • 304""""ConsolareLupanare . · 29099Mercurio Stabiana Nola• • 294 Pontesele • • 286 Ponticino · 302 Popoli 39. 175 Street of the Forum • 302 Populonia · 2099Theatre Tombs • • 283 Porta S. Croce, Florence 39 • 299 Portici""StreetsTemple of Esculapius .Augustus FortuneHercules301 Porto d'Anzio . 266. 163 • 286 "" Empedocle •• 329 280 ""292"" 284 "" Isis 287Ferrajo.Longone S. Elpidio Torres323 · 323 • 172 ·• 329 " Jupiter 280 Venere • ΙΟMercuryQuirinus 99 Venus• 281 Posilipo . • 249 281 Positano • 309 · 279 Postage to Italy • 8•• •The Eruption Theatre, Great"" SmallofJupiter and Juno 286 Treasury, The Triangular Forum• • 282• 284 287Pozzopiano Pozzuoli:Amphitheatre CathedralHistory• 274 Potassa 21• 284 Potenza .• 285172, 304 • 308· 256 253 Tribunal, The • • 251 Triumphal Arch . 280, 294 Mineral Springs 255 Thermæ Stabian . • 289 Mole 255 Tomb ofthe Arria Family • 300 S. Paul's Visit 253 "" Cenis and Labeo • 300 Stadium 257 99 Cerinius Restitutus 299 Temple ofJupiter Serapis 254 "" The Children · 300 "" Neptune 255 "" Diomedes 300 Nyinphs 255 "" The Garlands 299 Theatre • 257 "" Lucius Libella 300 Tombs • 257 ""Mamiæ . 299 Villa of Cardito 256INDEX. 373Pozzuoli (continued):Villa of CiceroPratola .LicastroPresenzano PrioloProcida .Punto di Fumo99 Molina"9 di Pennata di Rocciola Purchases in Italy Puteoli •QuadernaQuarto Querceta•Quinto·• 256 99 ·. 256 "9• 175 168337PAGE Rocca Imperialedi Papa99Secca •Strada .Roccomonfina Roccella264 Rocco, The 262 Roman Maremma5 266 . 261264251 Acqua Felice • 22 •ΙΟ9• 9RomagnanoPAGE • · 320 · 158Rome and Environs: -Abbey delle Tre Fontane Academy of St. Luke .Acqua Acetosa165 67 168 · 322 · 57 · 21 • 304• 156 • 98 • • · 155 · 155 · 157 · • 158 • III · 81• · 113 · • • 115 · 127Alban Mountains, The AlbanoAmphitheatre Castrense Arch of Antoninus Pius"" Dolabella Drusus GoldsmithsSeptimius Severus 96•Raiano RandazzoRapallo .Rapolano RavelloRavenna""to TriesteAcademy of ArtsBaptistery .Byron's House Cathedral Dante's Tomb Mausoleum of TheodoricS. Apollinare in Classe S. Nazario e Celso S. Vitale RecanatiReggio Resina Riace Riardo Ricco RietiRignano••175337967 99 Titus306 Ariccia23 Astura.· · · 102• • 159 • 163 to Rimini · 272726 2224 ""· 27 ""24 ""26Bambino, The Basilica of Antoninus Pius ConstantineJulia .the Apostles Baths of Caracalla9582 • 100 · • 97 S. Marco • 91 · 90 • · 114• 27 99 Diocletian · 75, 122· 27 29 Livia · • ΙΟΙ· 25 Bracciano · 162• 25 Bridge of St. Angelo • 131 · 172 Caere .· 322 • 266 · 322 1689177 Gandolfo39 Rimini RioRiomaggiore Ripalta .• 283239 "9178 99Ripatransone Rocca di Corno 173 · 177 "" d' Evandro 168Campo d'Annibale Capitol, The Capitoline Museum Casale dei Pazzi .Castle Fusano •of S. Angelo Catacombs of S. Calixtus""S. GenerosaSt. Pretextatus 155 St. Sebastian . 116 Cemetery, Protestant Chamber of Deputies 127· 162 · 158 • 91 · 91 •. 156 . 163 ·•159 130116, 155157"" di Fondi 177 Christian Museum82• ICO374 INDEX.•• •·81, 121Rome (continued ):-Churches:-S. AdrianoS. Agnese Fuori S. Alessio S. Andrea•PAGE97 • • 156S. Andrea della Valle S. Angelo in Pescheria Ara Cœli S. Bernardo S. CarloS. Clemente· 127 120Rome (continued)::--Churches:-S. Paolo alle Tre tane ·S. Paolo FuoriSt. Peter's .S. Petronilla •S. Pietro in Vinculi .S. Pietro in MontorioS. PrassedePAGEFon- • 127, 156 • . 156 132 125 · 115 126 123 95 130 91 123 S. Prisca • • 127 105 S. Pudentiana • 122 SS. Cosma and DamianoDomine quo Vadis..100 Quattro Coronati • · 113 S. Croce in Gerusalemme 112 S. Sabina • · 127 154 S. Sebastiano • • 155 Franciscans 122 S. Sisto Vecchio •. 115 S. Francesca Romana 103 S. Stefano Rotondo . • 113 S. George 127 S. Tommaso in Formis • 113 Gesû 125 S. UrbanoS. Giacomo degli Incurabili 81 S. Giovanni a Porta Latina 115 • 11397 • 113 99 • 106 • 8197•SS. Vincenzio and Anas- tasioCicero's Villa, Tusculum Circus Alexandri Maxentius of Romulus Civita Lavinia 97, 126• 157• 156• 158 126• 155 • • 116 • 159S. Giovanni e PaoloS. Giuseppe de' Falegnami S. GregorioS. John Lateran S. Lorenzo in Lucina S. Luke S. MarcellusS. Maria degli Angeli S. Maria AventinaS. Maria in Cosmedin S. Maria in Domenico'S. Maria Egiziaca S. Maria in Via Lata S. Maria Liberatrice S. Maria di LoretoS. Maria Maggiore S. Maria de Miracoli S. Maria di MontesantoS. Maria della Navicella S. Maria Nuova •S. Maria della Pace S. Maria della PianteS. Maria del Popolo S. Maria Scala Cœli S. Maria del SoleS. Maria Sopra Minerva S. Maria in Trastavere• Cloaca Maxima · 83 Coast of Latium . • · 162 • 122127 • 126 • 113 126 99 • 83Cœlian HillColosseum, The .Column of Marcus AureliusConvent of Franciscans. 113 10382 PhocasTrajan• • 97 · 90· 98 St. Carlo .122 121• • 91 Cori" . • • . 162 · 123 Corsini Palace • • 150 • 80 Corso, The . 80 • 81 · 113 Environs of Rome155 Esquiline Hill 126Egyptian Museum, Vatican . 149Etruscan Museum, Vatican .115 Farnesina •• 15375 149 · 153 • 80 Fêtes and Festivals •156 Field of Mars 71115 • 126 Fiumicino125 • 153 99 S. Martina 97 99 SS. Nereus and Achilleus.S. Nicolo in Carcere 114•Forum Romanumof Trajan Transitorium Fountains ofthe Acqua Marcia 75163 • 96 · 90 • 100126 99 " Termini S. Onofrio • 149 "" Trevi • 75 • 83INDEX. 375PAGE PAGERome (continued):-Frascati Rome (continued):-157 Palazzo Colonna . • 88 Galera Genzano162 "" Consulta • 119159 "" Corsini • 150""Ghetto, The Golden House of Nero Grotto of Egeria Ferrata126 di Monte Citorio • 82105 di Venezia • 91 • 157 Doria • 84 158Farnese . • 130 Grove ofthe Arvales 157 Hadrian's Villa, Tivoli 160 99 Health of Rome 71 99 House of Gibson 81 """" Goethe • 81 """" Lucretia Borgia 124 """" Nero • 105 "" Ruffi"" Rienzi 126 ""Imperial Mausoleum Island of S. BartholomewIsola Sacra .Janus Quadrifons, The Lago di Albano ·Lateran PalaceLatium, Coast of Library, VaticanLoggie of Raphael Mamertine Prison, The MarinoMausoleum of Augustus Meta SudansMonastery of Palazzuolo Money Mons SacerMonte Caprino130Giraud Lateran .Odescalchi PiombinoQuirinal .RospigliosiSaviata Savorelli132 • 109 • 90 • 82116119908899""126, 153 ""Sciarra Sessorian•• 163 99 • 127 99 · 158 · · 109 · 162 • 149 99 · 143 ""· 97Spada Valentini PalestrinaPantheon, The Piazza Colonna ·•Capo di Ferrodei Cappucini della Minerva·•161 12482 • 1279083 11212790122125 • 158 del Popolo 79 • 81 "" di Campidoglio . 91 • 103 99 di Monte Citorio 82158 "" di Pietra 82• 72 "9 di Termini • 75 156 "" di Venezia 88• 96 "" Navona 126" Cavo"""""" Mario"" Testaccio .• 158 "" Scossa Cavalli 132 Gennaro Gianiculo 162 "" S. Lorenzo in Lucina 81 • 149 S. Peter's . · 133 • 155 · 127 Pincian Hill""99Museum of the PalatineSculpture, Vatican .the Christian• 102146Pinacotheca, VaticanPlan of Description Pons Sublicius• 143 • 79 • 74 126• 109 Ponte Molle • . 155 Nemi, Lake of • • · 159 "" Nomentano . 156 Nettuno ••163 "" Rotto . 126 Obelisk from Thebes • 106 "" Salerno . 157 Olevano • 162 Omnibuses 71 99 Asinaria Ostia 162 99 Flaminia Palatine Hill, The • 100 "" FurbaPorta Angelica 155 . III79 . 15599..Palazzo BarberiniBorghese Chigi162 "" S. Giovanni III, 155 • 81 "" Latina 115 • 82 " S. Lorenzo 75376 INDEX.PAGE PAGE99 Mugonia • •S. Paolo •"9 Piadel Popolo Portico of OctaviaRome (continued):—Porta Maggiore, The 75, 112, 157 Rome (continued):—Temple of Vesta Theatres Theatre of Marcellus Tivoli .the Curatii• 98, 126 ΙΟΙ · 72127, 156 · 126 122 • 16079, 155 Tomb ofCæcilia Metella 116, 155 126 "" · · 116 Porto d'Anzio 163 99 Geta • · 115 "" Salaria 130 99 Romulus • · 116"" S. Sebastiano 115 99 the Scipios • 115 Post Office . · 71 Seneca . • · 116Prima Porta · 157 Torre dei Schiavi • 157 Principal Promenades Principal Sights, and Timesfor Seeing Them Protestant Cemetery Protestant Churches Pyramid of Cestius Quirinal Hill Quirinal Palace Railway Station Rocca di Papa Roma VecchiaRostrum , The Rotonda, Vatican Sabine Farm Sabine MountainSala Regia, The .Scala Sancta, The Segni .Sistine Chapel, The Stadium of Domitian •Stanza of Heliodorus Stanze of Raphael Statue of NeroStrangers' Quarters, The Subiaco Tarpeian Rock, The •· 158. 155·Temple of Antoninus and99Faustina .Castor and Pollux Cybele the Deus Rediculus 157 Fortuna Virilis72 Tor de Selce 155 Trastevere 149 • • 73 Tusculum• • 127 · 71 127 116 Veii• • 116 Velletri • • 75· 97 99 • 147 19 • 162 99 Bonella • 97 · 160 99 del Borgo Nuovo · • 132 117, 139 "" Campana 157 • III99 Cesarini 125 • 162 99 Flaminia 81· • 139 della Fontanella 81 99 ΙΟΙ 99 del Gesu 125 • · 142 99 S. Giovanni Laterano • 106••141 103Labicana Lata 10599 • 83 74"9 Latina · 155 161 della Lungara96 "" San Marco •99 Merulana9897 99delle MuratteNomentana ·• ΙΟΙ 99 Ostiensis de Pietra·15091 12383156 156, 162di San Pietro in Vinculi 83 112381 122114 • 157 • 121· . 120• · 80 • 88di Porta San Sebastiano Praenestina99 • 126 99 99 Julius • 98 dei Pontefici . 99 99 Mars Ultor . • 100 99 Porta Pia99 Minerva Medica 75 ""99 Saturn • 96 99 the Sun 1209999Venus and Cupid Venus and Rome 103Vespasian112 99 del Quirinale .99 · 96 99,, Quattro FontaneRipetta .San RomualdaVal d'Ariccia Valley of Licenza Vatican, TheVia AntoninaAppia Appia Nuova Ardeatina Nuova Babuino158 159 . 162. 139 . 162159 114. 115 · 155 156 . 791INDEX. 377PAGE PAGE•· 320 • 28•314 • 2123· 181Rome (continued):— S. Severo • 178 Via Sacra 97, 98 S. Stefano · 333 "" della Scala • 153 S. Vincenzo 20"" San Sebastiano • 115 S. Vittore 168"9 del Seminario • 124 S. Vita d'Otranto 315 "" Triumphalis 103, 158 Sabine Farm . 162Vigna Codini • 115 Sabine Mountains 160 Villa Albani 130 Salandra 305 ,, Borghese 75 Salcini · 67 of Hadrian Tivoli 160 Salerno 303 "" of Livia 157 Saline"" Madama 157 San Germano 322 166"" Mellini 155 "" Giorgio 311 99 di Papa Giulio Torlonia 155 "" Marino156 "" Severo 29 178 Volscian Mountains 162 ""Wall of Servius Tullus . 75 ""Spirito Bitonto Valentino • 314 174 Routes · 7 Sanseverino • 311 Rossano .Roseto ·Rubicon, The Rugge Ruvo Russellæ Russi·S. Agata dei Goti321 SansevennSangro, The Sarno •170 • 178 • 311 • 327 SardiniaSassa Tornimparte Sassari Sassoferrato• 327 • 177 . 328317 SarteneSavignano S. Agnetto • 308 Savignano- Greci ·3828179S. Antimo 182 Scafati . 302 S. Arcangelo 28 Scaletta . · 333 S. Angelo e Cinigiano 67 Scanno . 175 S. Basilio Pisticci 320 Scanzano · 320 S. Basilio 318 Scaricatojo • 305 S. Benedetto 173 Scurgola • 164 S. Cesario di Lecce 318 Segni 162, 164 S. Clemente 303 Sella di Corno • 177 S. Clemente di Casauria . 174 Senio River S. Demetrio 175 Sentinum S. Donnino 58 Seracino, The S. Elpidio S. Giovanni 181S. GiacomoS. Gimignano 56Serra S. Quirico Seravezza Sestri-Levante•2738 32038IO958 Sicignano 304 S. Giovanni d'AssoS. GregorioS. Lorenzo MaggioreS. Margherita S. MarinellaS. Maria a Castello S. Pietro-in- Fine S. Pietro VernoticoS. Salvo67 Sicily . 329 . 322 Siderno . 322 181 Siena 59 • 9 Cathedral 61• 22 Churches 65 309 Description 59 . 168 History of 59317 Instituto delle Belle Arti 63 178 Palaces25 2378 INDEX.· 257 175 178 2729308322PAGE Siena (continued):-- Time to visit ItalyPAGE6Palazzo Pubblico . 60 Tivoli 160Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 60 Topino, The . • 55 Signa •Sila, La .SilviSinalunga58 321 Tordino, The .Torre dell Annunziata · 174 . 266174 99 Cerchiera • 320 67 99 di Gaveta • 262Sinigaglia Siren's Cave Solarola .Solfatara, The SolmonaSolopaca Somma, La Sori Sorrento Soverato••36 "9del Greco •. 266 161 99 23 99 Torrecuso Torrenieridel Lagode Passeri • ΙΟ • 174 • 181 • 67 Torremare •Torrita • •32067 Tortoreto • 173 ToscanellaSpelloSpezia Spoleto Sparanisi Squillace Squinzano Starsa, La Starza ·55TraniTrapani21, 70 314 • 329 9 Trebisacce 320 56 168322Tremestieri Tremiti IslandsTrepuzzi333 . 178 •· 317 317 Trevi • 55 258 Trinitapoli • 312 180 Sticciano Stilo Stufe di Nerone Sturla •Stromboli• 67 Trionto, The .Tronto, The • 321 • 173 • 322 Tuficum • 38 260 Tuscan Maremma 219 Tusculum332 Tuturano Stroncone•• 158 · 317 . 177 Strongoli • 321 Subiaco . 161 Ufita RiverSyracuse • 337 Uggento Urbino180• 31832Talamone Churches 21 35Taormina Ducal Palace 333 35Taranto 305, 319 to Reggio • 320FortressHouse of Raphael 3533Tavogiere della Puglia 179 Teano 168 Val di Bove • · 336 Telese 181 Valle 181Temple ofJupiter Serapis 254 Temple of the Sibyl 161 99 Teramo . 173Valley of cl*tumnus Licenza .Vallombrosa55 162Terlizzi 314 Valmontone 164 Termoli . 178 Valsavoia 337 Terra di Lavoro 181 VastoTerracina . 168 VelinoTerni . 57, 174 Velletri .Tiber, The Time Tables226Vendetta, La .Vene, Le178 . 177 . 164 · 32556INDEX. 379PAGE PAGE9999 Cumana""Veii VesuviusVia Appia Ardeatina NuovaDomitiarna· 162 Villa of d'Este 161• 267 99 Hadrian 160154 99 Lucullus 262 · 158 99 Mæcenas 161. 263 99 Servilius Vatia 262263 99 Vedius Pallio 250 "" Nomentana . 156 Villasor 328 99 Nuova . 155 Viterbo 70 Ostrensis . . 162 Vitulano 18199 Prænestina . 157 Vivario · 325 99 Reggio IO, 20 Vizzarona 325 Vico 308 Volturno River 168, 264 Vietri 303 Vomano, The 174 Vigliano 177 Volscian Mountains 162 Villa of Cornelia . 26199 Cumana . 262 Zollino . 318Tourist's Memoranda.APPENDIX.HOTEL ACCOMMODATION COUPONSORIGINATED AND ISSUED BYTHOMAS COOK AND SON.THE HOTEL COUPON business, which was commenced as a friendly arrange- ment of mutual interest to ourselves, to Hotel Proprietors, and Tourists, has far exceeded our most sanguine anticipations; and as its benefits become better known, they will be more highly appreciated by all who are interested in the success of the scheme.THE HOTEL COUPONS now in operation on the Continent of Europe consist of THREE DISTINCT SERIES, and are specially arranged for the double object of meeting the requirements of travellers of various nationalities, and in accor- dance with the system of Hotel management which varies in different parts of the Continent.SERIES A provides for Bedroom, Lights, and Service, Plain Breakfast or Tea, Dinner at Table d'Hote, at the uniform rate of 8s. or 10 francs per day.SERIES B provides for Meat Breakfast or Dejeuner à la Fourchette, Dinner at Table d'Hote, Bedroom, Lights, and Service, at the rate of 8s. 9d. per day.SERIES C, OR FULL BOARD SERIES, provides for Bedroom, Lights, and Service, Plain Breakfast or Tea, Meat Breakfast or Dejeuner à la Fourchette,and Dinner at Table d'Hote, at the rate of 10s. per day.These are the ordinary features of Continental Hotel life , all else being regarded as extras, and as such they are left to be paid for by Cash.The Coupons are accepted at full value at one or more of the principal Hotels in each of the chief cities, towns, and places of Tourist resort in Switzer- land, Italy, on the banks of the Rhine, and at a great many places in France,Germany, Holland, Belgium, Austria, etc. , and are so arranged that passengers can, ifthey wish , breakfast in one hotel, dine in another, and sleep in a third; also for meals on board the Great Eastern Channel Steamers and the Rhine Steamers.N. B. All the Continental Hotels in the following list accept Coupons of Series A, and also, with but few exceptions, Series B and C. Those Hotelswhich do not accept the meat breakfast Coupon (green) are not mentioned in the list of Hotels issued with Series B and C.SUPPLEMENTAL AND EXCEPTIONAL ARRANGEMENTS.Hotel Coupons are accepted at the London and Paris Hotel and Refreshment Rooms, NEWHAVEN WHARF. Coupons are accepted for meals on board the GREAT EASTERN CHANNEL STEAMERS and on the RHINE STEAMERS.SPECIAL COUPONS are issued for the Hotel Metropole at VIENNA at 11s. 6d.per day.For PARIS, Hotel accommodation cards at special rates are issued for the Grand Hotel at 16s. , and for the Hotel Bedford at 12s. per day. In the Hotels London and New York, St. Petersburg, and Pavillon , the ordinary 8s. coupon ,if presented entire , cal's for an addition of meat , fish , or eggs to the ordinary breakfast. Detached coupons are accepted at the same rates as elsewhere.To meet the requirements of an increasing number of Cheap Excursionists who prefer to board entirely in the Hotels they occupy, THOS. COOK & SON have arranged with the following good middle-class Hotels to provide for the ordinary coupon ( if presented entire) -three meals, namely, first breakfast, déjeuner à la fourchette, and table d'hote dinner. Detached coupons ' are accepted at the same rates as in other places. Tourists can now find suitable accommodation in any part of the City, as will be seen by the following list:-Beretta's London and Milan Hotel, 8, Rue St. Hyacinthe, St. Honoré.Muller's British and American Hotel, 39, Rue Pasquier, near Cook's Off 84.2 HOTEL COUPONS.Hotel Coquilliére, Rue Coquilliére, near the Bourse.Hotel Jules César, 52, Avenue Ledru Rollin, near Lyons Railway Station.Hotels Rue Jacob, and Pension Mauvais, Rue Bagneux ( South side of Seine).ADDITIONAL CHARGES are made on the Coupons as follows:BRUSSELS. —At the Grand Hotel , Hotel de Flandre, and Hotel Belle Vue, asupplementary charge of one franc will be made by the proprietors on each Bedroom Coupon, and passengers who sleep in the hotels must also take their meals there.AT BADEN- BADEN, at the time of the Races, 2 francs per day.GENEVA. During May, June, July, August, and September, the manager of the Hotel Metropole engages to provide Coupon holders with rooms on the first or second floors, provided he is advised 24 hours in advance.RIGI KULM.-The Hotels on the Rigi Kulm stipulate that passengers shall pay one franc each additional on the bedroom coupons, and one franc each on the dinner coupons.AT ROME, from the first of December to the end of April, from one franc to three francs per day , according to the class of rooms, are now agreed to as extra charges.HAVRE. -During July and August an additional charge will be made at the Hotel Frascati.NICE. At Nice, during the months of December, January, February, and March, travellers giving up these coupons at the Grand Hotel, will be required to pay a supplement of one and a half franc per day extra for each person.MONTE CARLO. -At the Hotel des Anglais a supplemental charge of onefranc will be made on the dinner coupon, and 50 c. onthe meat breakfast coupon.BAGNERES DE LUCHON. -During July and August an additional charge of four francs per day is made at the Grand Hotel des Bains.BIARRITZ. -During the bathing season an extra charge is made by the hotel proprietor upon the bedroom coupons.LISBON. -At the Hotel Central, Lisbon, ifcoupons are presented for separatemeals, and not in sets of complete days, an extra charge is made by the hotel proprietor.GIESSBACH.- I.-The dinner coupons can only be accepted whenthe passengers remain for the night.MALTA. -At the hotels in Malta any of the European series of hotel coupons provide, if presented by the day, three full meals, with bedroom and lights;but ninepence per day extra must be paid to the proprietors for attendance.CORFU. -At the Hotel St. George, Corfu , the European Hotel coupons willbe accepted, but should passengers occupy their rooms after 6 p.m. (not sleep- ing in the hotel) , a supplemental charge of one franc fifty centimes will be made by the hotel proprietor.ST. PETERSBURG. -At the Hotel d'Angleterre a supplemental charge of one franc will be made on the bedroom coupon.CONDITIONS and terms of REPAYMENT for unused coupons are printed in the coupon books.ANY COMPLAINTS which parties have to make as to the use of the coupons or the conduct of Hotel Proprietors or Servants, to be addressed in writing to Messrs. THOMAS COOK & SON, Ludgate Circus, Fleet Street, London.HOTEL COUPONS CAN BE OBTAINED at any of the offices of Messrs. THOMAS COOK & SON, and also at the Hotels Swan, Lucerne; Trois Rois, Bâle; Hotel Holland, Baden Baden; Trombetta, Turin; Victoria, Venice.REPAYMENTS FOR UNUSED HOTEL COUPONS, less 10 per cent. , can only be made at the Chief Office, Ludgate Circus, Fleet Street, London, and no agentsare authorised to repay for any not used.HOTELS IN THE EAST. -A special series of coupons is provided for the East Levant, and we append list of hotels.FOR THE LAKE DISTRICT, WEST OF ENGLAND, SCOTLAND, AND IRELAND also special coupons are provided, as per programmes.EUROPEAN AND EASTERN HOTELSWhere Cook's Coupons for Hotel Accommodationwill be accepted.HOTELS IN FRANCE AND FRENCH SAVOY.Aix les Bains-Grand Hotel du Cha- | Lourdes-(Pyrenees) Hotel Belle Vue.teau Durieux.Allevard les Bains-Grand Hotel des Bains.Amiens-Hotel de l'Univers.Amphion-(Lake of Geneva)-- Grand Hotel des Bains.Angers-Hotel d'Anjou.Angouleme-Grand Hotel du Palais.Annecy-Hotel d'Angleterre.Avignon-Hotel de l'Europe.Bagneres de Bigorre-Hotel de France.Bagneres de Luchon-Grand Hotel des Bains (see note) .Biarritz-Grand Hotel.Bordeaux-Hotel de France.Boulogne-Grand Hotel Christol.Brides les Bains- Grand Hotel.Calais-Hotel Dessin.Cannes Hotel National.Hotel de la Plage.Chambery- Hotel de l'Europe.Hotel de Londres.Hotel d'Angleterre.Chamounix Hotel Imperial.Hotel du Montanvert.Hotel Royal.Clermont-Ferrand-Hotel de la Poste.Compiegne-Hotel de la Cloche.Dieppe-Hotel Queen Victoria.Dijon-Hotel Jura.Fontainebleau-Hotel de Londres.Gorges duFier-Chalet Hotel.Grasse-Grand Hotel.Grenoble-Hotel Monnet.Honfleur-Maison du Mont Joli.Hyeres-Hotel des Iles d'Or.Lyons Grand Hotel de Lyon. Hotel de l'Europe.Macon-Hotel de l'Europe.Marseilles-Hotel du Louvre et de la Paix.MentoneHotel de Menton.Hotel de Turin (West Bay).Hotel d'Italie ( East Bay).Grand Hotel de Venise.Hotel du Louvre.Modane-Station Buffet.Monte Carlo{Hotel des Anglais (see note).Hotel Beau Rivage.Nice-Grand Hotel.Pontarlier-Hotel de la Poste.

• Paris

Grand Hotel (Special Coupons) .Bedford HotelCoupons, 12s. ).(Special+ Londres et New York,Place du Havre.St. Petersbourg, 35, Rue Caumartin.Pavillon , Rue l'Echiquier.

• See special note.

Pau-Grand Hotel Gassion.Perpignan-Grand Hotel de Perpig nan.Rouen-Grand Hotel d'Albion.Royat les Bains- Lyon.-Grand Hotel deSemnoz Alps-Chalet Hotel de Semnoz.St. Jean de Luz-Hotel de la Plage.Toulon-Grand Hotel.Tours-Grand Hotel de Bordeaux.Vichy- Grand Hotel des Bains.HOTELS IN NORMANDY AND BRITTANY.La Bourboule-Hotel Beauséjour.Auray-Hotel Pavillon.Avranches-Hotel France.Bayeux-Hotel Luxemburg.Brest-Grand Hotel.Caen-Hotel d'Angleterre.Chartres-Hotel Duc de Chartres.Cherbourg-Hotel de l'Aigle et Angle- terre.Dinan-Hotel Bretagne.Havre-Hotel Frascati (see note).Le Mans-Hotel Boule d'Or.Morlaix-Hotel Provence.Quimper-Hotel de l'Epée.Quimperle Hotel d'Angleterre.- de France etRennes-Hotel de France.St. Brieuc-Hotel Croix Blanche.St. Lo-Hotel Cheval Blanc.4APPENDIX.ALGERIA AND TUNIS.Algiers Hotel de l'Europe.Hotel de l'Oasis.Hotel Kirsch (Mustapha) .Bel Abbes-Hotel Orient.Batna-Hotel de Paris.Hamman K'Irha-Hot Mineral Baths.Oran {Hotel de l'Univers. de la Paix.Phillippeville-Grand Hotel d'Orient.Soukahras-Hotel Thagaste.Tangiers-Central Hotel.Tlemcen-Hotel de France.Hotel Bertrand.Biskra-Hotel Trans Saharien.Blidah-Hotel d'Orient.Bona-Hotel d'Orient.Tunis Constantine-Hotel d'Orient.Guelma-Grand Hotel Auriel.SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.Grand Hotel Tunis.Badajoz-Railway Buffet. Lisbon (Portugal )-Hotel Central. Barcelona-Hotel des Quatre Nations. Madrid Hotel de la Paix (specialBurgos-Hotel Rafaela.Cadis-Hotel de Paris.Cintra-(Portugal)-Hotel Victor.Escurial-Hotel Miranda.Figueras-Hotel de Commerce.Gibraltar-King's Arms Hotel.Granada-Hotel Washington Irving.La Granja-Hotel de l'Europe.conditions).Malaga-Hotel Alameda.St. Sebastian-Hotel Ezcorra.Seville-Hotel de Paris.Tarragona-Hotel de Paris.Valencia-Hotel Ville de Madrid.Vigo-Hotel Continental.HOTELS IN SICILY, &c.Catania-Hotel Musumeci.'Dunsford's Hotel Grand Hotel MaltaMessina-Hotel Victoria.Palermo- Hotel de France.Syracuse-Hotel Victoria.Hotel Timeo. Taormina Hotel Bellevue.SWITZERLAND AND THE ALPINE DISTRICTS.Imperial Hotel, Valetta Imperial Hotel, SliemaAarau-Hotel de la Cigogne.Aigle-Hotel Victoria.Airolo-Hotel de la Poste.Alpnacht-Hotel Pilatus.Altdorf-Hotel Furka.Andermatt-Hotel Belle Vue.Baden (Switzerland) -Hotels Hinter- hof, Staadhof, and Grand Hotel de Bade.Campfer-Hotel Campfer.Chamouny(Savoy)-See under "Hotels in France."Chateaux d'Oex-Hotel Berthod.Chauxde Fonds-Hotel de la Fleur de Lis.Clarens-Hotel Roy.Coire-Hotel Steinbock.Constance-Hotel Hecht.Bale Hotel Trois Rois Hotel Kuranstalt. , and Central Davos Platz { Hotel Belvedere.Station Buffet.Berne-Hotel Belle Vue.Bergun-Hotel Piz Aela.Bellinzona - Hotel de l'Ange.Bex-Hotel des Bains.Bienne-Hotel Macolin.Binn-Hotel Ofenhorn.Brienz-Hotel de la Croix Blanche.Couronnes et Brigue Poste.Hotel desBrunnen-Hotel Adler.Hotel des Alpes.Bulle Hotel Cheval Blanc.Burgenstock-Hotel Burgenstock.Disentis- Disentis Hof.Eggishorn-Hotel Jungfrau.Einsiedeln-Hotel du Paon.-- Falls of the Rhine (Neuhausen) —Schweizerhof.Fluelen Hotel Croix Blanche etPoste.Fribourg- Grand Hotel National.Frutigen-Hotel Belle Vue.Furka-- Hotel Furka.GenevaY Hotel du Lac.Hotel National.Hotel de Russie.Hotel Metropole,HOTELS. ' 5Giessbach-Hotel Giessbach (see note. ) | Rigi- Kulm-Hotels Rigi-Kulm and Glacier du Rhone-Hotel Glacier du Rhone.Granges (Soleure)-Hotel du Lion.Grindelwald-Hotel de l'Ours.Hospenthal-Meyerhof.Ilanz-Hotel Oberalp.Interlacken-Hotel Victoria and Hotel Ritschard.Kandersteg-Hotel Gemmi.[Poste.Lac Noir(Fribourg) -Hotel des Bains du Lac Noir.Landquart-Hotel Landquart et de la Hotel Gibbon.Lausanne Hotel Beau Rivage( Ouchy) .Lauterbrunnen-Hotel du Capricorne.Leukerbad Hotels des Alpes and de France.Liestal-Hotel Schauenburg.Locarno-Grand Hotel.Locle-Hotel Jura.Lucerne Hotel du Cygne (Swan).Lugano Hotel du Parc and Station Buffet.Lungern-Hotel du Lion d'Or.Martigny-Hotel de la Tour.Meiringen-Hotel du Sauvage.Monnetier-Hotel de la Reconnais- sance.Montreux-Langbein's Hotel Beau- Séjour au Lac.Morges-Hotel du Mont Blanc.Morschach (Lake Frohnalp.Lucerne) -HotelNeuchatel-Grand Hotel du Lac,Neuhausen-Schweizerhof.Ouchy-Hotel Beau Rivage.Pilatus-Hotel Klimsenhorn.Pontresina-Hotel Kronenhof.Hotel Quellenhof.Ragatz Hotel Ragatz.Rigi-Kaltbad-Hotel Rigi- Kaltbad.Schreiber (see note).Rigi-Staffel-Hotel Rigi- Staffel.Rosenlaui-Hotel Rosenlaui.Saas Fee-Hotel du Dom.Samaden-Hotel Bernina.San Moritz Bad-Hornbacher's En- gadine Hof.Sarnen-Hotel de l'Oberwald.Saxon-Grand Hotel les Bains.Schaffhausen-See Falls of the Rhine.Schuls-Hotel de la Poste.Schweiz-Hotel Rossli.Semnoz Alps-See French Savoy.Sils ( Engadine) Hotel Edelweiss.Silvaplana-Hotel Rivalta.Sion- Pension Aux Lilas.Soleure (See Granges. )Sondrio (See Italy. )Spiez-Hotel Spiezerhof.Splugen-Hotel de la Poste.St. Nicholas-Grand Hotel.Stalden-Hotel Stalden.Stansstad-Hotel Burgenstock.Susten (nearLeuk)-Hotel de la Souste.Tarasp-Hotel Kurhaus.Tete Noire-Hotel de Tete Noire.Thoune ( Thun) -Hotel Belle Vue.Thusis-Hotel Via Mala.Unterschaken-Hotel Klausen.Vernayaz-Grand Hotel des Gorges de Trient.Vevey-Grand Hotel Vevey.Veytaux-Chillon-Hotel d'Angleterre.Viesch ( Eggischorn )-Hotel des Alpes.Villeneuve-Hotel Byron.Visp-Hotel de la Poste.Weesen- Hotel Speer.Zermatt- Hotel du Mont Cervin.Zug-Hotel du Cerf.Zug ( Mountain)-Hotel Schonfels.Zurich-Hotel Belle Vue.HOTELS IN BLACK FOREST.Achern-Hotel de la Poste.Albruck-Hotel Albthal.Brennet (Station)-Hotel Werrathal.Belchen ( High Mountain Station) -Rasthaus Belchen.Donaueschingen-Hotel Schutzen.Feldberg (High Mountain Station)-Hotel Feldbergerhof.Freudenstadt-Hotel Schwarzwald.Furtwangen-Angel Hotel.Gernsbach-Bath Hotel.Hochen Schwand-Hotel Maier.Holsteig (Hollenthal) -Golden Star Hotel.Hornberg Hotel Baren.Lorrach-Hotel Hirsch.Lenzkirch-Hotel Poste.Mulheim-Hotel Kittler.Neustadt-Hotel Poste.Offenburg-Hotel Fortuna.Ottenhofen-Hotel Pflug.Oberkirch-Hotel Linde.Schluchsee-Hotel Star.Sackingen-Hotel Schutzen .Schonau- Hotel Sonne.Schopfheim-Hotel Three Kings.St. Georgen ( BlackForest)-HotelHirsch St. Blasien-Hotel St. Blasien,6 APPENDIX.Villingen-Hotel Blume ( Poste).Waldkirch-Hotel Poste.Wehr(Werrathal)—Hotel Krone.Wolfach-Hotel Krone.Todtnau- Hotel Ochsen.Triberg (Town)-Lion Hotel.Triberg (Cascade) - Black Vohrenbach-Hotel Kreuz.Forest[Hotel.AUSTRIA, ETC.Adelsberg-Grand Hotel. Hanover-British Hotel.BELGIUM, HOLLAND, THE RHINE, GERMANY,Aix-la - f Hotel du Dragon d'Or.Chapelle Dubigk's Grand Hotel.Amsterdam-Hotel Pays Bas.Hotel de la Paix.Antwerp Hotel de l'Europe.Arnheim-Grand Hotel du Soleil.Baden-Baden-Hotel de Hollande.Barmen-Hotel zur Pfalz.Berchtesgaden-Hotel Belle Vue.Hotel Central.Berlin Markgraf's Hotel de l'Europe.Topfer's Hotel .Bingen-Hotel Victoria.Bonn-Grand Hotel Royal.Boppard-Hotel du Rhin.Botzen -Hotel Kaiserkrone ( Imperial Crown).Breda-Hotel Swan,Bremen-Hotel de l'Europe.Brixen- Elephant Hotel.Bruges-Hotel de Flandre.BrusselsGrand Hotel (see note) .Hotel de la Poste.Hotel du Grand Miroir.Hotel de Flandre (see note).Hotel Belle Vue (see note).Grand Hotel Britannique.Buch rest-Grand Hotel Brofft.Carlsruhe-Hotel zum Erbprinz.Cassel-Hotel Royal.Cleve-Hotel Prinzenhof.Coblence-Hotel du Geant.Hotel Hollande.Cologne Hotel Disch.Constance-Hotel Hecht.Creuznach -Riedel's Hotel.Darmstadt-Hotel Traube. [ Station) .Dresden-Grand Union Hotel ( near Alt Durkheim-Hotel Four Seasons.Eisenach-Hotel Halben Mond .Ems-Hotel Darmstadt.Field of Waterloo -Museum Hotel.Frankfort-Hotel Swan.Freiburg (Baden) -Hotel zum Pfauen.Ghent-Hotel de Vienne.Goerlitz-Hotel Herbst.Graz-Hotel Elephant.Heidelberg-Hotel de l'Europe.Innsbruck-Hotel Tyrol.Ischl-Hotel Kreuz.Jena-Hotel Schwarzen Baeren.Kempten-Hotel Krone.Kiel-Hotel Germania.[I.Kissingen-Hotel Victoria.Klagenfurt-Hotel de l'Europe.Konigswinter-Hotel de Berlin.Kustendjie ( Roumania)-Hotel Charles Leeuwarden- Hotel Nieuwe Doelen.Liege Hotel de l'Europe.Linz-Hotel Neubauer.Marburg-Hotel Ritter.Mayence-Hotel de Hollande.Meiningen- Hotel de Saxe.Metz-Grand Hotel de Metz.Munich-Hotel Belle Vue.Namur-Hotel Holland.Neuwied-Moravian Hotel.Nuremberg-Hotel Rothes Ross.Oberlahnstein-Hotel Lahneck.Ostend{( Stracke's Hotel d'Allemagne,Hotel de Gand et d'Albion .Passau-Hotel Bayrischen Hof.Pesth (Hungary)-Hotel Konig von Ungarn.Prague Hotel d'Angleterre.Regensburg-Hotel Golden Cross.Reichenhall (Bavaria)-Hotel Curhaus Archselmannstein.Rendsburg-Hotel Bergman.Riva ( Lake Garda) —Hotel Soleil.Rosenheim-Hotel Bayerischerof.Rotterdam-New Bath Hotel.Rudolfstadt-Hotel zum Ritter.Salzburg-Hotel Erzherzog Carl.Schandau-Hotel Bahr.Scheveningen-Hotel Deutschmann.Schwalbach-Hotel Metropole.Schwarzburg-Hotel Weissen Hirsch.Schweren (Mecklenburg) -Hotel du Spa-Hotel Brighton. [ Nord.Trescher Speyer-Rhine Hotel.St.Petersburg-Hotel d'Angleterre (see [note.Starnberg-Hotel de Baviere.Hague-Hotel du Vieux Doelen.Hamburg-Hotel Streit.Stettin-Hotel du Nord.Strasburg-Hotel de la Ville de Paris.Stuttgardt-Marquardt's Hotel.Thale-Hotel Zehnpfund.HOTELS. 7Trient (Tyrol)-Hotel Trento.Treves-Hotel de Treves.Trieste-Hotel de la Ville.Ueberlingen (Lake of Constance) -Hotel des Bains.Utrecht-Hotel des Pays Bas.Station Buffet.Verviers{ Hotel du Chemin de fer.Bergen-Hotel Bergen.Christiania-Grand Hotel.Vienna Hotel Metropole (Special Hotel Royal. Coupons) .Weimar-Hotel zum Erbprinzen.Wiesbaden-Grand Hotel du Rhin.Wijk aan Zee-Grand Establissment des Bains.Worms-Hotel de l'Europe.Wurzburg-Hotel Kronprinz.SWEDEN, NORWAY, AND DENMARK.Copenhagen-Hotel d'Angleterre.Gothenburg-Hotel Christiania.Hamburg-Streit's Hotel,Honefos-Gladvett's Hotel.Kiel-Hotel Germania.Grand Hotel. Stockholm Hotel Rydberg.Trondhjem-Hotel Angleterre.HOTELS IN ITALY.Acqui-Hotel Thermes d'Acqui. Luino-Hotel Simplon.Amalfi Hotel Capuccini.Ancona-Hotel della Pace.Arenzano-Hotel d'Arenzano.Arona-Hotel de l'Italie.. Assisi Hotel Subasio.Baveno-Hotel Belle Vue.Bellagio-Hotel Grande Bretagne.Bologna-Hotel Brun.Bordighera Hotel Windsor. Hotel d'Angleterre.[Ferro.Bormio-Nouveaux Bains de Bormio.Brindisi-Hotel des Indes Orientales.Cagliari ( Sardinia) - Hotel Scala di Capri-Hotel Bristol.Caserta-Hotel Victoria.Castellamare -Hotel Royal.Ceprano-Station Buffet.Cernobbio ( Lake of Como) -Grand Hotel Villa d'Este.Como (on Lake)-Hotel de la Reine d'Angleterre (Villa d'Este).Cornigliano (near Genoa)-Grand Hotel Villa Rachel.Chiavenna-Hotel Conradi.Desenzano- Hotel de la Poste.Florence Hotel New York.Hotel de l'Europe.Hotel de Russie.Foligno Station Buffet.GenoaHotel de la Ville.Trombetta Feder.Grand Hotel de Gênes.Station Buffet.Intra-Hotel de la Ville.La Cava-Hotel de Londres.La Tour-Hotel de l'Ours.Lecco-Hotel deux Tours.Leghorn- Hotel du Nord.Lucca-Hotel de l'Univers.Mantua-Hotel della Croce Verde eMenaggio Hotel Menaggio. Hotel Victoria. [ Fenice.Milan Grand Hotel de Milan.Hotel de l'Europe.Grand Hotel Nobile.Naples Hotel Vesuvius .Hotel Metropole.Orta-Hotel Lion d'Or.Orvietto- Grand Hotel Delle Belle Arti.Padua-Grand Hotel Fanti.Pallanza-Grand Hotel Pallanza.Perugia-Hotel de Perugia.Pisa-Hotel de Londres.Pistoja Station Buffet.Pompeii-Hotel Diomede.Pozzuoli-Hotel Grande Bretagne.Hotel d'Allemagne.Continental Hotel.Hotel Amerique.Station Buffet.RomeRavenna-Hotel Europa.Salerno-Hotel Victoria.Salo-Hotel Gardone Riviera.San Remo-Hotel Victoria.Sienna- Grand Hotel.Sondrio Valtelina)-Hotel de la Poste.Sorrento-Hotel Tramontano.Hotel de la Croix de Malte.Spezia Hotel d'Italie.Station Buffet.+Turin-Hotel Trombetta,d'Angleterre, Station Buffet.Varenna-Hotel Royal.Varese-Grand Hotel Varese.+Venice-Hotel Victoria.Verona Hotel de Londres.Station Buffet.Vintimille-Station Buffet.† At the Hotels marked thus † Cook's Tickets may be had.Hotel8 APPENDIX.EASTERN HOTELS ( SPECIAL COUPONS) .Alexandria-Hotel Abbat.Athens Hotel d'Angleterre.Hotel des Etrangers.Baalbec-Hotel Palmyra.Beyrout-Hotel Bellevue. [Hotel.Cairo-Shepheard's Hotel and the NewDimetris Hotel.Damascus {DimetVictoriaJaffa -Hardegg's Jerusalem Hotel.Jerusalem-Mediterranean Hotel.Luxor-Luxor Hotel.Patras ( Greece) -Patras Hotel.Constantinople -{ Hotel d'Angleterre . Port Said-Hotel des Pays-Bas. Royal.Corfu (Greece)-Hotel St. George.Smyrna-Hotel de la Ville.Suez-Suez Hotel.For list of Hotels in Great Britain , United States, and India, see Excursionist and Tourist Advertiser. "" Cook'sFor further particulars apply toTHOS. COOK & SON,Specially appointed by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales Passenger Agents for the Royal British Commission , Vienna 1873, Philadelphia 1876, and Paris 1878.Chief Office-Ludgate Circus, London.West-End Office-35, Piccadilly (opposite St. James's Church).Strand Office-445, West Strand. | Holborn- First Avenue Hotel.Army and Navy Co-operative Society-Victoria Street, S.W.Euston Road Office-In Front of St. Pancras Station.Crystal Palace-Tourist Court.BRANCH OFFICES:MANCHESTER-6г , Market Street.LIVERPOOL-11 , Ranelagh Street.BIRMINGHAM -Stephenson Place.WALSALL- P.O. Bldings. , The Bridge.WOLVERHAMPTON-27, Queen Street.LEEDS- 1 , Royal Exchange.BRADFORD-8, Exchange, Market St. SHEFFIELD-Change Alley Corner.NOTTINGHAM-16, Clumber Street.LEICESTER- 7, Gallowtree Gate.DUBLIN-45, Dame Street.EDINBURGH-9, Princes Street.GLASGOW- 165, Buchanan Street.COLOGNE-40, Domhof.GENEVA-90, Rue du Rhone.PARIS Rue Scribe.{Grand Hotel NICE-15, Quai Massena.CANNES-Hotel National.BRUSSELS-22 , Galerie du Roi.ROME-IB, Piazza di Spagna.NAPLES-Sommer's Fine Art Gallery.MALTA-308, Strada Reale, Valetta.ALGIERS-35, R. Chasseloup Laubat.CONSTANTINOPLE-170, Grande Rue ATHENS-Place Royale. [de Pera.CAIRO Shepheard's Hotel.ALEXANDRIA-Cook's Agency.JAFFA-Hotel Jerusalem.BEYROUT-Near Hotel Belle Vue.CHIEF AMERICAN OFFICE-261, Broadway, New York.CHIEF OFFICE FOR INDIA-17, Hornby Row, Bombay.CALCUTTA- Northbrook House.CHIEF AUSTRALASIAN OFFICE-The Exchange, Melbourne.NEW ZEALAND AGENCY-Messrs. Upton & Co., Auckland.Tourist's Memoranda.84. 1Tourist's Memoranda.Tourist's Memoranda.Tourist's Memoranda.SAMUEL BROTHERS,MERCHANT TAILORS AND OUTFITTERS,SYDENHAM HOUSE, 65 & 67, LUDGATE HILL, LONDON, E.O.DEPARTMENTS.1. Gentlemen's Clothing Madeto Order.2. Gentlemen's Clothing Ready for Im- mediate Use.3. Boys' and Youths' Clothing Ready- Made or to Measure.4. Officers' Uniforms.5. Contract Uniforms (Military, Naval,6. Servants' Liveries. [ Civil, etc. ).7. Ladies' Habits, Costumes, Ulsters,Jackets, etc. 8. Shirts, Hats, Hosiery, Outfitting, etc. 9. Boots and Shoes."WEAR RESISTING " FABRICS ( REGD . )These Fabrics are especially adapted for the wear ofTOURISTS & TRAVELLERS.GENTLEMEN'S TOURIST OR MORNING SUITS."C" CLASS.OPECTAILOR- MADE COSTUMEFOR TRAVELLING.From 848.Coat Vest Trousers"D" CLASS.£1 8 0 Coat £1 13 0086 017 60 8 0 Vest 0 14 0 TrousersSuit Complete £2 10 0 Suit Complete £2 19 0The Special Attention of TOURISTS and TRAVELLERS is particularly invited to the large and varied Stock always on hand, comprising materials suitable for all climates. Each garment or roll of cloth is marked in plain figures the price and class to whichit belongs, thus greatly facilitating the selec- tion of the goods required.SPECIALTIES.Shirts, Silk and Wool, for Hot Climates.Under Shirts and Drawers, Tropical Gauze.Hammocks, Waterproof Ground Sheets, etc. Pyjamas ( Sleeping Costume), Cotton or Flannel.Helmets, Tweed or Linen.Do. Air Chamber.Alarge stock of various necessaries for Travellers and Tourists are always on hand, such as Portmanteaus,Travelling Trunks, Rugs, Mauds, Waterproof Coats,Dust Coats, Soft Felt Hats, Walking, Shooting, Fishing,or Riding Boots, etc.LADIES' TAILOR-MADE COSTUMES, in Serge ( colour warranted), and all the most durable Textures.Waterproof Cloaks (Tweed or Macintosh) , Ulsters,Coats, Mantles, Jackets, etc.SYDENHAM HOUSE, 65 AND 67, LUDGATE HILL, E.0.SAMUEL BROTHERS.TELEPHONE No. 1889.84.6 ADVERTIsem*nTS.NOTICE TO TRAVELLERS.Accidental Death or Injuries of all Kinds INSURED AGAINST BY THEOCEAN, RAILWAY, & GENERAL ACCIDENT ASSURANCEAND GUARANTEE COMPANIES, LIMITED.HEAD OFFICES: -MANSION HOUSE BUILDINGS, LONDON.EMPOWERED BY SPECIAL ACT OF PARLIAMENT.Tickets covering the risk of travelling by any kind of conveyance throughout Europe may be had at any of THOS. COOK & SON's Offices.£1,000 available for One Month ... Premium 5/-£500 99 99 ... 99 3/-£200 99 99 ... "" 1/6£1,000 available for Three Months ... "" 10/-£500 99 99 5/-£200 99 99 2/6Premium 25/-... Premium 6/-Throughout Europe 8/-General Accident Policies .£1,000 available for Twelve Months ...Railway Policies for Risks in the United Kingdom.£1,000 available for Twelve Months...Double these Premiums secure a Weekly Allowance of 10/- for every £100 assured in cases of Disablement.Accidents at Sea.POLICIES TO OR FROM ANY PORT IN THE WORLD AT VERY LOW RATES.GUARANTEE POLICIES ISSUED TO PERSONS IN SITUATIONS OF TRUST.EMPLOYERS' LIABILITY ASSURANCES.POLICIES ISSUED AT THE OFFICES OF THE COMPANY,AND BYTHOS. COOK & SON, LUDGATE CIRCUS; 35, PICCADILLY; 445, WEST STRAND;and FIRST AVENUE HOTEL, HOLBORN, LONDON.MANCHESTER-61, Market Street.LIVERPOOL- 11, Ranelagh Street.Place.WALSALL-P.O. Buildings, The Bridge.WOLVERHAMPTON-27, Queen Street.LEEDS-1, Royal Exchange.BIRMINGHAM-StephensonBRADFORD--8, Exchange, Market Street.SHEFFIELD-Change Alley Corner.NOTTINGHAM-16, Clumber Street.LEICESTER-7, Gallowtree Gate.DUBLIN-45, Dame Street.EDINBURGH-9, Princes Street.GLASGOW-165, Buchanan Street.PARIS-9, Rue Scribe; and Grand Hotel.NICE-15, Quai Massena.COLOGNE-40, Domhof.BRUSSELS-22, Galerie du Roi,GENEVA-90, Rue du Rhone.ROME-1b, Piazza di Spagna.NEW YORK-261, Broadway.ADVERTIsem*nTS.ROWLANDS'KALYDORcools and refreshes the face, hands and arms of ladies and all exposed to the hot sun and dust: it eradicates all freckles, tan, sunburn,stings of insects. &c. , and produces a beautiful and delicate complexion.MACASSAR OIL preserves, strengthens, and beauti- fies the hair, and can be also had in a golden colour, for fair or golden-haired children and persons. Sizes 3,6; 7/-; 10,6 . equal to four small.whitens and preserves the teeth . strengthens the gums,ODONTO and gives a pleasing fragrance to the breath.is a botanical wash for cleansing the hair and EUPLYSIA skin of the head from all impurities, scurf orEUKONIAdandriff. 2,6 per bottle.is a beautifully pure, delicate, and fragrant toilet powder. Sold in three tints; white, rose and cream.2/6 per box.Ask any dealer in perfumery for Rowlands' articles , of 20, Hatton Garden,London, and avoid spurious worthless imitations.GOLD MEDAL,MON BOITOPARIS,1878.JOSEPH GILLOTT'SSTEEL PENS.Soldbyalldealers throughout the World.PARSONS' (Late COOK'S)BRITISH MUSEUM HOTEL,59, Great Russell Street, Bloomsbury, London.This Establishment is pleasantly situated within three minutes' walk of OxfordStreet and High Holborn, the great Omnibus route to the City and the West End,with easy facilities for visiting every part of the Metropolis.3 ADVERTIsem*nTS.COOK'S HANDBOOK FOR LONDON.WITH TWO MAPS.Price 6d.; cloth gilt, 1s.Contains PARTICULARS of CONVEYANCES, PUBLICINSTITUTIONS, CHURCHES, CHAPELS,and all Places of Interest." This is another of that valuable series of Guide Books for the issue ofwhich we are so indebted to Messrs . Cook & Son. A sixpence will be well laid out in the purchase of this excellent guide. " -Land and Water."This guide ought to be in the hands of every one who visits London. "-Bradford Observer.To be obtained at any of the Offices and Agencies of THOS. COOK & SON,or sent by post for 7d. or 1s.THOS. COOK and SON,Ludgate Circus, London.SUMMER TOURS IN SCOTLAND.GLASGOW AND THE HIGHLANDS.Royalroute, viaCrinanandCaledonian CanalsTHE ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS.NEW SCREW STEAMSHIP " CAVALIER."COLUMBA IONA CHEVALIERLOCHAWE LINNET PIONEERCLANSMAN ISLAY STAFFA CLYDESDALEGLENCOE LOCHIEL FINGAL GONDOLIER MOUNTAINEER GLENGARRY CLAYMORE INVERARAY CASTLESail during the Season for Ardrishaig, Inveraray, Islay, Lochawe, Oban, Fortwilliam,Inverness, Staffa, Iona. Glencoe, Tobermory, Portree, Strome Ferry, Gairloch, Ullapool,Lochinver, Lochmaddy, Tarbert, Harris, and Stornoway, affording Tourists an opportunity of visiting the magnificent scenery of Glencoe, the Cuchullin Hills, Loch Scavaig, Loch Coruisk, Loch Maree, and the famed Islands of Staffa and Iona.Circular Tourist Tickets in connection with the various Railways are issued on board, and by Messrs. THOS. COOK & SON, at their various offices.Books descriptive of the Route muy be had on board the Steamers.Official Guide Book, 3d.; Illustrated copy, 6d. & 1s. Time Bill, with Map and Tourist Fares free, from THOMAS COOK & SON, London, or free by post on application to the Proprietor:-DAVID MACBRAYNE, 119, HOPE STREET, GLASGOW.ADVERTIsem*nTS. 91WHELPTON'S VEGETABLE PURIFYING PILLS.Are one ofthose rare Medicines which, for their extraordinary properties, have gained an almost UNIVERSAL REPUTATION.During a period of NEAR Y FIFTY YEARS they have been used most extensively as a Family Medicine, thousands having found them a simple and safe remedy and one needful to be kept always at hand.These Pills are purely Vegetable, being entirely free from Mercury or any other Mineral,and those who may not hitherto have proved their efficacy will do well to give them a trial.ESTABA.D.1835WHELPTON'SVEGETABLEPURIFYINGPILLSTRADE MARK.SHOULD BE IN EVERY HOUSEHOLD.Recommended for Disorders of the HEAD,CHEST, BOWELS, LIVER, and KIDNEYS; also in RHEUMATISM, ULCERS, SORES, and all SKIN DISEASES-these Pills being a Direct Purifier ofthe Blood.In Boxes, price 74d. , 1s. 1d. , and 2s. 9d. , by G. WHELPTON & SON, 3, Crane Court, Fleet Street, London, and sent free to any part of the United Kingdom on receipt of 8, 14, or 33 8tamps.Sold by all Chemists at home or abroad.COOK'S INDIAN TOURS.Under Special Authority of the Government of India and theSecretary of State for India.NOW READY,Programme of COOK'S New SystemOFINTERNATIONAL TRAVELLING TICKETS,EMBRACING EVERY POINT OF INTEREST FOR TOURISTSAND GENERAL TRAVELLERS ININDI A,INCLUDINGSKELETON TOURS & CAREFULLY-PREPARED ITINERARIESILLUSTRATING THE CHIEF ROUTES BYRAILWAYS, STEAMERS, & OTHER CONVEYANCES,ALSO ASPECIALLY ENGRAVED MAP OF INDIA.Price One Shilling.10 ADVERTIsem*nTS.GUIDE BOOK S.The following Books can be obtained at any of the Offices ofTHOS. COOK & SON, or sent by Post to any part of the UnitedKingdom:-Cook's Tourists' Guide to Holland, Belgium, and the Rhine Price 3s. 6d. With Maps. .Cook's Tourists' Guide to Switzerland, showing allRoutes to Paris, with descriptions of the places of interest.Price 3s. 6d. With Maps.Cook's Tourists' Guide to Normandy and Brittany.Price Is. 6d. With Maps.Cook's Tourists' Guide to the Black Forest. Price3s . 6d. With Map.Cook's Tourists' Guide to Northern Italy. Price 4s.With Maps."Cook's Northern Italy ' will tell the traveller nearly all he wants to know of the chief cities of the North, including Florence, the approaches through the mountain passes from France, Switzerland,and Austria. "-Graphic.Cook's Tourists' Guideto Southern Italy and Rome.Price 4s. With Maps." Cook's ' Tourist Handbook to Southern Italy' is another of those plain, unpretending guides, which, like Cook's Coupons, are perhaps best suited for the inexperienced traveller, but to him will prove of more real service than the more voluminous and exhaustive manuals.It is as good a handbook as tourists can desire. " -Cook's Handbook to Venice. Price Is.Cook's Handbook to Florence. Price Is.་-Graphic.With Plan.With Plan.' Cook's Handbooks to Florence and Venice form two handy little volumes full of reliable information. "—John Bull.Cook's Handbook to the Health Resorts of theSouth of France and the Mediterranean. Price Is. With Map.Cook's Handbook for Egypt, the Nile, and the Desert. Price 6s. With Five Maps.Cook's Handbook for Palestine and Syria. Price75. 6d. With Four Maps.Cook's Guide to Paris. With Plan of Paris.Price Is.ADVERTIsem*nTS. 11GUIDE BOOKS, &c . -continued.Cook's Handbook for London. Full particulars of allplaces of interest, Railways, Omnibuses, Tramways, Steamers,Cab Fares, Churches, Chapels, Public Buildings, NationalInstitutions, Museums, Picture Galleries, Law Courts, Theatres,Clubs and Club Houses, Banks and Bankers in London, Short Excursions in the Suburbs, Hotels, &c. , &c. With Two Maps.Price 6d.; cloth gilt, Is.Up the Nile. To the First and Second Cataracts. WithMaps. Price 6d.Programmes of Perscnally-Conducted and Independent Palestine Tours with extensions to Egypt andthe Nile. With Maps. Price 6d.Cook's Excursionist and Tourist Advertiser. Published at short intervals during the Season, in London, NewYork, and Brussels; and contains Programmes and Lists tothe number of 1000 Specimen Tours; tickets for which areissued by THOS. COOK & SON, with Fares by every Route.Price 2d. , or by Post 3d.Cook's Continental Time-Tables and Tourists'Handbook. Contains the Time-Tables of the principalContinental Railway, Steamboat, and Diligence Companies,and includes EIGHT SECTIONAL MAPS. Price IS.L'Excursionniste Cco*k. Published monthly. SpecimenTours and Time Tables in French. Price 25 centimes.LONDON:THOS. COOK & SON, LUDGATE CIRCUS, E.C.WEST END OFFICE-35, Piccadilly (opposite St. James's Church) .STRAND OFFICE-445, West Strand.CRYSTAL PALACE-Tourist Court.EUSTON ROAD OFFICE-In front of St. Pancras Station.BRANCH OFFICES:MANCHESTER- 61, Market Street LIVERPOOL-11, Ranelagh Street BIRMINGHAM-Stephenson Place WALSALL-P.O. Buildings, The Bridge WOLVERHAMPTON-27, Queen St. LEEDS-1 , Royal Exchange BRADFORD-8, Exchange, Market St. SHEFFIELD-Change Alley Corner NOTTINGHAM- 16, Clumber Street LEICESTER- 7, Gallowtree Gate DUBLIN-45, Dame Street EDINBURGH-9, Princes StreetGLASGOW-165, Buchanan StreetPARIS 9, Rue Scribe Grand Hotel NICE-15, Quai Massena COLOGNE-40, Domhof BRUSSELS-22, Galerie du Roi, Gale ries St. Hubert GENEVA- 90, Rue du Rhone ROME- 1B, Piazza di Spagna CAIRO-Cook's Tourist Pavilion, Shep- heard's Hotel ALEXANDRIA- Cook's AgencyCHIEF AMERICAN OFFICE-261, BROADWAY, NEW YORK.CHIEF OFFICE FOR INDIA-17, HORNBY ROW, BOMBAY.CHIEF AUSTRALASIAN OFFICE-THE EXCHANGE, MELBOURNE.12 ADVERTIsem*nTS.TO EXCURSIONISTS AND TOURISTS.To avoid the rush at Railway Stations in procuring Tickets at the time ofdeparture, Messrs. THOS. COOK & SON have been appointed Passenger Agents tothe Railway Companies, and the following Tickets can be obtained at ANYTIME at their Chief Office, LUDGATE CIRCUS, LONDON: -Midland Railway. -All Ordinary, Excursion, and Tourist Tickets.Great Eastern Railway.-All Ordinary and Tourist Tickets.London, Brighton , and South Coast Railway. -All Ordinary, Excursion, and Tourist Tickets.Great Western Railway.-All Excursion and Tourist Tickets.London, Chatham, and Dover Railway.-All Ordinary, Excursion, andTourist Tickets.The above Tickets can be procured at any time, and will be dated to suit the convenience of the passenger.THOS. COOK & SON,Chief Office-Ludgate Circus, Lcrdon.Cook's Continental Time Tables andTourist's Handbook.PRICE ONE SHILLING, POST free.This work is arranged upon an entirely new plan, andcontains the Time Tables of the principal Continental Railway, Steamboat, and Diligence Companies, combined withmuch Information required by every Traveller.To be obtained at any of the Tourist Offices ofTHOS. COOK & SON.ADVERTIsem*nTS. 13MIDLAND RAILWAY.THE DIRECT ROUTE BETWEENENGLAND AND SCOTLANDVia SETTLE AND CARLISLE.A SPECIAL SERVICE OF EXPRESS TRAINS BETWEENLONDON, EDINBURGH, AND GLASGOW.A SPECIAL SERVICE OF EXPRESS TRAINS BETWEENLONDON AND LIVERPOOL(Via MATLOCK and the PEAK of DERBYSHIRE) .Passengers travelling by this Route pass through the most picturesque portion of the Peak of Derbyshire and the Vale of Matlock.DIRECT ROUTE BETWEENLONDON AND MANCHESTER(Via DERBY and MATLOCK) .A SERVICE OF EXPRESS AND FAST TRAINS RUN BETWEENLONDON, LEICESTER, NOTTINGHAM, DERBY, SHEFFIELD,STOCKPORT, LEEDS, and BRADFORD,AT CONVENIENT HOURS DAILY.DAY OR PARLOUR CARS. -Passengers holding First Class Tickets are allowed to ride in the Pullman Parlour Cars attached to the Day Express Trains without extra Pay- ment. These Cars run daily between London (St. Pancras) and Liverpool, Manchester,Carlisle, and Glasgow respectively, and are warmed during the Winter months. A Special Attendant accompanies them, and they are fitted with Lavatory accommodation. PAR- LOUR CARS CAN BE ENGAGED FOR SPECIAL PARTIES.DINING SALOON CARS. -Dining Cars are attached to the 5.0 p.m. train from London (St. Pancras) to Manchester, Liverpool, &c. , and to the 5.0 p.m. train from Manchester to London (St. Pancras) into which Passengers from Liverpool, &c. , can change at Derby. No extra charge beyond the sum payable for the dinner will be made.PULLMAN SLEEPING CARS.-The charges for berths in the Pullman Sleeping Cars, in addition to the First Class Railway Fare, are-between London and Glasgow or Edinburgh, 8s.; between London and Liverpool, 6s.; London and Manchester, 58.For Ladies travelling alone a separate Saloon is reserved in the Sleeping Cars.OMNIBUSES.-Small Omnibuses, capable of carrying Six Persons inside and Two Outside, with the usual quantity of Luggage, are supplied when previously ordered, to meet the Express and other principal trains at the St. Pancras Station. The Omnibuses are also sent to the Hotels or Residence of Parties leaving London by Midland Railway, on application being made to the Station Master at St. Pancras , stating the train by which they intend to leave St. Pancras. The charge for the use of an Omnibus is One Shilling per mile (Driver and a reasonable quantity of Luggage included) , with a minimum charge of Three Shillings. Two-horse Omnibuses ply between the St. Pancras Station and Hotel and Charing Cross and Waterloo Stations, in connection with the principal through trains.All the Trains of the Midland Company convey First and Third Class Passengers at ordinary Fares. The Midland Company's Trains arrive at and depart from the St. Pancras Station, London; the Midland Station, Ranelagh street, Liverpool; the Waverley Station,Edinbro'; and the St. Enoch Sation, Glasgow.The MIDLAND GRAND HOTEL (one of the largest Hotels in Europe) , containing upwards of 400 Bed Rooms, with spacious Coffee Room, Reading Room, and numerous Drawing Rooms, has been erected by the Company at St. Pancras Terminus, and will be found replete with every accommodation.Derby, 1884.JOHN NOBLE, GENERAL MANAGER.14 ADVERTIsem*nTS.LONDON, CHATHAM, AND DOVER RAILWAY.LONDON AND PARIS,VIA DOVER AND CALAIS (THE MAIL ROUTE) ,SIX MAIL EXPRESS SERVICES DAILY.Shortest Sea Passage, 80 Minutes.TERMINI:-VICTORIA ( WEST END) , HOLBORN AND LUDGATE (CITY) .MAIL STEAMERS AND SPECIAL EXPRESS TRAINS.Holborn Viaduct - • dep Ludgate Hill ( City Sta.)Victoria (W. End Sta.)1& 2 Exp.7 35 a m." 7 38 7 401 Exp.7 55 p.m. 756 8 0Paris Calais 39 99 Calais Dover arr 9 25 " 9 55 Dover - dep Calais arr. about Calais · dep Paris ( Nord) arr9 35 11 15 12 11 p.m. 5 4129 10 0"9 11 45""39" 5 50 12 50 a.m. "Passengers have the option of proceeding1st Class Single 2nd " | "··dep · arr - dep arr. about1 & 2 Exp.7 40 a.m. 1 10 p.m.1 Exp.7 45 p.m. 1 20 a.m. 1 20 39 1 30 "30 "" 3 10 "dep 3 45 4 15 "5 15 5 45 " 6 10 ""610 " 5 48 6 13 "Dover -Dover .Victoria (W. End Sta. ) arr Ludgate Hill ( City Sta.) ,, Holborn Viaductfrom orto Dover by any other Train on the London, Chatham ,and Dover Railway.The Sea Passage between Dover and Calais is the Shortest between England and the Continent.£3 08. 1st Class Return (Available for One Month) £4 158.£2 58. 2nd 39 29 " " £з us.Luggage Registered throughout; 56 lbs. allowed free to each Passenger, First or Second Class.SPECIAL DAY MAIL SERVICE (SUNDAYS INCLUDED) TOPARIS AND BRUSSELS, via DOVER AND CALAIS.VICTORIA HOLBORN LUDGATE Dover Calais PARISdep. 10. 0a.m. BRUSSELS .PARIS Calais 9.55 29 " 956 ""9 12. 0 noon. Dover "" 2.36 p.m. LUDGATE arr."8. 07.10 ""dep. 10.32 a.m. " 9.40 "" 3.15 p.m. 99 5.30 .· arr. 7.25 " 7.28 29"BRUSSELS 7.25 "HOLBORN VICTORIAMAIL AND EXPRESS SERVICES TO BELGIUM, GERMANY, AND THE RHINE.VIA DOVER AND CALAIS. FIRST AND SECOND CLASS THROUGHOUT.FROM LONDON.Day Service.Holborn dp 7 35 a.m. """TO LONDON.CologneSpecial Day Day Night Service. Service. Service.dp 11 40 a.m. 10 30 p m. 10 30 p.m"291 17 p.m. 12 7 a.m 12 7a.m. ar 5 39 4 38 dp 8 15 10 32 - ar 1 5 a.m. 3 0 p.m. - dp 1 20Special DAY Service.Night Service.9 55 a.m. London Ludgate 7 38 , 9 56 Victoria 7 40 10 07 55 p.m. 7 56 8 0""Dover Dover ar 9 25 - dp 9 35 "" 11 50 39"" 9 55Calais ·Brussels (Midi) ar 4 55 Brussela ( Nord) dp 5 15 Aix- la-Chapelle"3 12 15 p.m. 12 Onoon 10 02 25 p.m. 12 55 a.m.99""Aix-la- Chapelle Brussels (Nord)Brussels (Midi)·""4 88 7 43 ""Calais 12 39 p.m. Calais " 3 15 " 1 20 39 "" 7 10 Dover · 4 15 5 30 3 30 " 11 0""...... " " 29 615 Victoria ar 6 10 " 7 25 " 5 15 ""Cologne 9 53 ar 11 15 "London Ludgate ,, 6 10 " 7 25 " 5 45 "22 5 30 19 "Holborn , 6 13 " 7 28 " 5 48ROYAL NORTH GERMANY.3 50 a.m. 10 811 26MAIL ROUTE TO Via QUEENBORO' AND FLUSHING.Leaving Victoria, Holborn Viaduct, and Ludgate Hill Stations, DAILY, at 8.25 p.m. Through Tickets Issued and Luggage Registered.Offices where THROUGH TICKETS and Information can be obtained:-Chief West End Office-VICTORIA STATION.City Terminus-HOLBORN VIADUCT.City Office -LUDGATE HILL STATION.T. COOK & SON'S Tourist Office, Ludgate Circus;35, Piccadilly; and 445, West Strand.

-

Brussels-Mr. SUFFELL, 81, Montagne de la Cour Cologne Mr. J. J NIESSEN, 4-6, Domhof.Paris-Mr. G. WATERS, 30, Boulevard des Italiens,and Northern of France Railway Station.Calais-Mr. THOMSETT, Vice- Consul.THE CONTINENTAL TIME BOOK of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway contains full in formation as to the above Routes, Fares, &c. , and can be obtained on application to the CONTINENTAL MANAGER'S OFFICE, Victoria Station; or at COOK'S TOURIST OFFICE, Ludgate Circus, E.C.ADVERTIsem*nTS. 15General Steam Navigation Co., 71, Lombard Street, E. C. , and 14, Waterloo Place, London, S. W.GENERAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY.(From and to Irongate and St. Katharine's Wharf.)LONDON AND BOULOGNE.The Dolphin, Rhine, Cologne, Moselle, or Concordia.From London -Almost Daily. From Boulogne-Almost Daily.FARES. -London to Boulogne, 10s. and 7s.; Return, 15s. 6d. and 11s. London to Paris, available for three days, 25s. 6d.; 21s.; 188.; and 15s. Return available for fourteen days, 49s. 6d.; 37s.; 338.; and 24s.

• LONDON AND HAVRE. -Swallow or Swift.

From London-Every Thursday. From Havre-Every Sunday.FARES. -Chief Cabin, 13s.; Fore Cabin, 9s. Return Tickets, 20s. 6d. and 14s.LONDON & OSTEND, THE RHINE, & SWITZERLAND. The Swift and Swallow.From London-Wednesday and Sunday.From Ostend-Tuesday and Friday. FARES.-Chief Cabin, 158.; Fore Cabin,10s. Return Tickets, 23s. and 15s. 6d.LONDON & ANTWERP, THE RHINE, & SWITZERLAND.The Hawk and Falcon.From London-Every Tuesday and Saturday.From Antwerp-EveryTuesday and Friday. FARES. -Chief Cabin, 163.; Fore Cabin, 11s. Return Tickets, 25s. and 17s.LONDON AND HAMBURG.Bittern, Kestrel , Libra, Iris , Rainbow, Martin, Virgo, Nautilus, or Alford.From London-Every Wednesday and Saturday.From Hamburg-Monday and Thursday. FARES.-Chief Cabin, 40s.; Fore Cabin, 20s. Return Tickets, 61s. 6d. and 31s.LONDON TO OPORTO, PORTUGAL, AND SPAIN.The Granton and Petrel.Departures from each end every three weeks. For dates see daily papers.FARES. -Chief Cabin, 84s.; Ladies, 10s . extra.LONDON AND BORDEAUX, SOUTH OF FRANCE, AND THE PYRENEES.The Albatross , Gannet, or Lapwing.From London-Every Thursday. From Bordeaux-Every Friday.FARES. -Chief Cabin, 60s.; Fore Cabin, 40s. Return Tickets, 100s. and 66s . 8d.LONDON AND THE MEDITERRANEAN.(Genoa, Leghorn, Naples, Messina, and Palermo. )Raven, Swan, Mallard, Redstart and Cormorant.From Lendon.-Every alternate Wednesday. For further particulars applyat Chief Office, as above.LONDON AND EDINBURGH(Granton Pier) .-The Osprey & Penguin.From London-Every Wednesday and Saturday.From Edinburgh (Granton Pier) .- Every Wednesday and Saturday.FARES.-Chief Cabin, 228.; Fore Cabin, 16s.: Return, 34s. and 24s. 6d.; Deck (Soldiers and Sailors only) , 10s.88.;

• LONDON AND HULL.-The Heron and Ostrich.

Every Wednesday and Saturday from London and Hull. FARES.- Saloon,Fore Cabin, 5s. Return Tickets, 12s. 6d. and 8s.

• LONDON AND YARMOUTH.
• RAMSGATE AND MARGATE.

Return Tickets are available for one month. Steward's Fees are included in the Fares.

• Summer Passenger Services only.

The above arrangements are subject to such alteration from time to time asthe Directors may think necessary or desirable. See Advertisem*nts in daily papers.For Bank Holiday Arrangements, see Special Bills and Advertisem*nts.THOS. COOK & SON, Agents.16 ADVERTIsem*nTS.NEGRETTI & ZAMBRA'STRAVELLERS' SCIENTIFIC REQUISITESOpticians and Meteorological Instrument MakersTO HER MAJESTYTHE QUEEN, H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES,GreenwichandKew Observatories, and all GovernmentDepartments.HOLBORN VIADUCT;Branches at 45, CORNHILL; and 122, REGENT STREET;Photographic Studio-CRYSTAL PALACE, Sydenham, London.

• Pocket Aneroid Barometer, to foretell Weather ...

£ s. d.330

• Ditto, ditto, with Altitude Scale £5 58. Od, and 6 6 0
• Binocular Glasses, for either LAND or SEA Service,

£2 28. Od. , £3 3s. Od. to 6 6 0Negretti and Zambra's New Binocular TelescopePrices in Bronze, with Leather Case £8 88. Od. to 12 12 0Ditto, ditto in Aluminium £13 138. Od. to 20 0 0...The New Binocular is specially designed for Field, Military, or Marine Service.Optically, is of high power; gives a large field of view, abundance of light, perfect definition; and achromatic, so that any Colour or Flag can be recognized at long distances. A Glass, to be really useful, should possess mechanical strength, and behandy either on foot or in the saddle; these qualities are pre-eminently united in the NEW BINOCULAR.Telescopes, 15 to 20 miles' range ... £4 4s. Od. and 5 5 0POCKET THERMOMETERS, SEXTANTS, AND COMPASSES,PRISMATIC COMPASSES, CLINOMETERS, Etc., Etc.All Instruments warranted of the most accurate construction.Illustrated Price Lists posted free to any part of the World.se are to be obtained at THOS. COOK & SON'S Office, Ludgate Circus.ADVERTIsem*nTS. 17UNDER CONTRACT WITH H.M. POSTMASTER- GENERAL.THEPENINSULAR AND ORIENTALSteam Navigation CompanyDespatch their Steamers, FROM LONDON (Gravesend) vid the SUEZ CANAL, as follows:-EVERY WEDNESDAY, 12.30 P.M.For GIBRALTAR, MALTA, PORT SAID, SUEZ,ADEN and BOMBAY.EVERY ALTERNATE WEDNESDAY, 12.30 P.M.For COLOMBO, MADRAS, CALCUTTA, THESTRAITS, CHINA, and JAPAN .EVERY ALTERNATE THURSDAY, 12.30 P.M.For AUSTRALIA, NEW ZEALAND, and TASMANIA.EVERY FOURTH SATURDAY, 12.30 P.M.For MARSEILLES, SUEZ, ADEN, and BOMBAY.Corresponding Steamers sail from BRINDISI with the Overland Mails every MONDAY, from VENICE every THURSDAY,and from TRIESTE every fourth MONDAY, and from MAR- SEILLES every fourth TUESDAY.Loading Berth, ROYAL ALBERT DOCKS ( Central Station) .CHEAP RETURN TICKETS to INDIA, CHINA, AUSTRALIA,and EGYPT are now being issued. These Tickets can be madeavailable for different periods and various routes, so as to affordTourists an opportunity of visiting these countries. THREEMONTHLY RETURN TICKETS are also issued by theLONDON Steamers to GIBRALTAR, MALTA, and MARSEILLES.Company's Steamers call at PLYMOUTH on the Homeward voyage only.For Rates of Passage Money and Freight, and all other information, apply at the Company's Offices,122, LEADENHALL STREET, E.C.Branch Offices ( for Passenger BusinessandParcel), 25, co*ckSPUR STREET, S.W.;24, RUE LEPELETIER, PARIS; and7, RUE NOAILLES, MARSEILLES.Passengers can be booked at any of the Offices of THOS. COOK & SON.84. 218 ADVERTIsem*nTS.COOK'S EXCURSIONS, TOURS,ANDGENERAL TRAVELLING ARRANGEMENTS.THOMAS COOK AND SON,PIONEERS, Inaugurators, and Promoters of the principal systems of Tours established (in 1841 ) in Great Britain and Ireland, and on the Continent ofEurope, are now giving increased attention to Ordinary Travelling Arrangements, with a view to rendering them as easy, practicable, and economical as circ*mstances will allow. During 43 years more than EIGHT MILLIONS ofTravellers have visited near and distant places under their arrangements; andtheir system of Tickets now provides for visiting the chief points of interestin the Four Quarters of the Globe.Tourist Tickets by Midland Route issued by THOMAS COOK and SON to Derbyshire, Yorkshire, Lancashire, Morecambe Bay, Isle of Man, Scotland,Ireland, &c.; also Cheap Excursion Tickets to and from London.Cook's English Lake Tours cover all points of Interest, including Win- dermere, Coniston, Ullswater, Derwentwater, Rydal, and Grasmere Lakes.Coaches and Carriage Excursions to visit all principal places.AlsoCook's West of England Tours, combining Railway, Coach, and Steamer to every point of interest between Bristol and the Land's End. The Tickets areprepared in Coupon form, and can be issued in combination, to meet the requirements of the Tourist. Hotel Coupons are also issued for First Class Hotels in the District.Cook's Scotch Tours cover all points of Tourist interest in Scotland,Oban, Staffa, Iona, Isle of Skye, Caledonian Canal, Kyles of Bute, the Trossachs, the Highlands, the Lake District, Edinburgh, etc.; and can be used in a similar manner to the Irish Tours.Cook's Irish Tours. -Thomas Cook and Son issue Tourist Tickets to andthrough all parts of Ireland, including the Giant's Causeway, Belfast, Dublin, Galway,Loch Erne, the Lakes of Killarney, etc. They can be used in connection with Tickets from London, or any town on the Midland Railway.Cook's Tickets to Paris are available by the Shortest and Cheapest Routes, and by Dover and Calais.Cook's Swiss Tickets are available by every Route, and Cover everypart of the Country. Thomas Cook and Son are the only Authorized Agents of every Swiss Railway, Steamboat, and Diligence Company. Every Alpine route is included in their arrangements.Cook's Italian Tickets provide for every Route to and through Italy, and are offered at great Reductions in Fares.Cook's Tours to Holland, Belgium, and the Rhine, are arranged upon amost comprehensive basis, Tickets being provided for every Route, for single and return journeys, and for Circular Tours. Breaks of journey are allowed at all places of interest.Cook's Personally-conducted Tours have become a most popular featurein their arrangements. Parties are organized to leave London weekly during the seasonfor Switzerland, Germany, Italy, and various parts of the Continent.ADVERTIsem*nTS. 19COOK'S EXCURSIONS AND TOURS-continued.The Steam Navigation of the Nile is committed by the Khedive Govern- ment entirely to Thomas Cook and Son. The Steamers (the only ones on the Nile)ply between Cairo and the First Cataract (600 miles), and the Second Cataract ( 810 miles) . Tickets can be had, and Berths secured, at any of Cook's Offices.Tours to Palestine are rendered easy, safe, and economical, by the superior arrangements of Thomas Cook and Son. They are therefore prepared to conduct large or small parties in the most comfortable manner through the country;to Jerusalem, the Dead Sea, the Jordan, Damascus, Sinai, etc. The parties can be so fixed as to go independently or under personal management any time between October and April.Turkey, Greece, the Levant, etc. -Thomas Cook and Son are now pre- pared to issue Tickets by any line of Steamers, to any port touched by the Austrian Lloyd's, Messageries Maritimes, and Rubattino Co.'s Steamers.India, China, etc.-Thomas Cook and Son are the Agents of the principal Steamship Companies of the world, and are prepared to issue Tickets from Graves- end, Venice, Ancona, Genoa, Naples, and Brindisi, to Alexandria, Aden, Bombay,Calcutta, Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, or any other point in India or China.Algerian Tours. -Thomas_Cook and Son issue Tickets by any route to Algeria, and over the Algerian Railways and Diligence routes.Norway, Sweden, and Denmark. -Thomas Cook and Son now issue Tourist Tickets by all principal Railways and Steamers for the most interesting parts of Scandinavia.Round the World. -Thomas Cook and Son are prepared to issue a direct travelling Ticket for a journey Round the World by Steam, available to go either West or East.Cook's Hotel Coupons, available at nearly eight hundred first-class Hotels in various parts of the world, can be had by travellers purchasing Cook's Tourist Tickets, guaranteeing them first class accommodation at fixed and regular prices.Passages to America and Canada are secured by Thomas Cook and Son for all the chief lines of Steamers. Arrangements are made for Tours through America,giving a choice of more than 200 Single and Tourist Tickets .Thomas Cook and Son's General Travelling Arrangements are so widely extended, that they can supply Tickets to almost any point that Tourists may wish to visit, in many cases at reductions, many ranging from twenty-five to forty-five per cent.below ordinary fares. The regular Travelling Ticket being issued in all cases printed in English on one side, and in the language of the country where it is used on the other,and it contains all the information the traveller needs.Policies of Insurance against accidents of all kinds, by land and sea,are effected through the Office of Thomas Cook and Son, as Agents of the " Ocean Railway, and General Accident Assurance Company, Limited."Programmes can be had gratuitously, on application at the Offices of Thomas Cook and Son, or by post, in return for stamps covering postage.Cook's Excursionist and Tourist Advertiser is published at short intervals,price 2d. , post- free, 3d. , and contains programmes and lists to the number of nearly one thousand specimen Tours. Tickets for which are issued by Thomas Cook andSon, with fares by every Route.Cook's Continental Time Tables and Tourist Handbook, with Eight Sectional Maps, price 1s. Published monthly.Cook's Handbook for London. Price 6d.; in cloth, 1s. With Two Maps.THOMAS COOK & SON,Chief Office Ludgate Circus, Fleet Street, London, E.0.20ADVERTIsem*nTS.THE MIDLAND GRAND HOTEL,ST. PANCRAS STATION, LONDON.The LARGEST and FINEST HOTEL in the Kingdom.An exceptionally healthy and most desirable Residence forVisitors to London.R. ETZENSBERGER, Manager.Convenient OMNIBUS SERVICE between the Hotel -West End,Charing Cross, and the Strand-Fare, 3d. Intending Visitors may also order the Company's one- horse Omnibuses to meet them on arrival at any London Terminus, saving much trouble and expense.NOTICE.- EXCELLENT COFFEE.ETZENSBERGER'S PATENT Double-action COFFEE and TEA FILTERS, for bars, hotels, steamships, etc. , are now used on all the leading Steamship lines, and in first-class hotels. For particulars, apply to R. ETZENSBERGER & Co.13, ST. ANDREW'S STREET, HOLBORN CIRCUS, LONDON, E.C., and atTHE MIDLAND GRAND HOTEL.THOS. COOK & SON'SFOREIGN BANKING & MONEY EXCHANGEDEPARTMENT.Chief Office-LUDGATE CIRCUS, LONDON, E.C.Foreign Monies Exchanged at most Advantageous Rates,Drafts and Circular Notes Issued and Cashed.Messrs . THOS. COOK & SON have added the above Department to theirold-established Tourist business, in order to more fully meet the requirements oftheir numerous patrons.Continental Hotels.21AVRANCHES,HOTEL DE FRANCE.Proprietor, EMILE PINEAU.First-class Establishment-well situated, and very comfortable. Table d'hote.Saloons for families. Piano. Smoking and billiard-rooms. Garden attached to the Hotel. Moderate prices. English spoken. Omnibus from the Hotel to all trains. Cook's Hotel Coupons accepted.HOTELBADEN- BADEN.DE HOLLANDE,AND DEPENDANCE AU BEAU SEJOUR.A. ROSSLER, Proprietor.This favourite and first-class Hotel, situated near the Kursaal, Promenade, and Theatre, commands one of the most charming views in Baden. The Hotel and Dependance consist of 160 sleeping apartments, elegant sitting-rooms, and a garden for the use of visitors. Extensive and airy dining- room, and a comfortable public sitting-room, with piano and library. It is conducted under the immediate super- intendence of the Proprietor, who endeavours, by the most strict attention and exceedingly moderate prices, to merit the continued patronage of English and American Visitors. English and American Newspapers . The Table d'hote of this Hotel is reputed of the best quality in Baden. Fixed moderate charges for every- thing. Rooms from 2s . and upwards. Cook's Hotel Coupons accepted.BELLAGIO (Lake of Como) .HOTELS GRANDE BRETAGNE AND DEPENDANCEVILLA SERBELLONI.Proprietors, Messrs. MEYER and ARRIGONI.First-class Hotels, with all modern comfort, situated in the best position on the Italian Lakes. Large Park, Garden, and Pleasure Grounds belonging to the Hotel. English Church Service. Moderate prices.Cook's Hotel Coupons accepted.BOLOGNA.HOTEL BRUN.Proprietor, J. R. FRANK.This establishment, which can be highly recommended, is very conveniently situated for the accommodation of Tourists, Omnibuses plying between the Hotel and the Railway Station. The attendance is good, the apartments clean and com- fortable, and the prices reasonable. Large and small apartments. Dining,smoking, reading, and billiard-rooms. Table d'hote every day. English spoken.Bologna is a convenient point for visiting Ravenna, or for breaking the journey to Brindisi. The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son accepted here.BONN.GRAND HOTEL ROYAL.ON THE BANKS OF THE RHINE.Proprietor, A. ERMEKEIL.First-class Hotel of European repute; largely patronised by English and American families . Situation unequalled-facing the Rhine, Seven mountains, and Park, near Landing Place and Railway Station. Beautiful gardens, ladies' saloons,reading and smoking-rooms. Warmand cold baths. Highly recommended.Cook's Hotel Coupons accepted.232CONTINENTALHOTELS.14]BORDEAUX.GRAND HOTEL DE FRANCE.LOUIS PETER, Proprietor ( a Belgian) .First- class Hotel, thoroughly repaired, splendidly situated in front of the Grand Theatre, the Port, the Bourse, the centre of Commerce. Large saloon reserved for ladies. Reading-room; smoking- room; restaurant; diving-room, the best in Bordeaux. 90 rooms, from 3 francs upwards. Bath rooms on each floor . English,Belgian papers, &c. Every language spoken.Cook's Coupons accepted.BRUSSELS.HOTEL DE LA POSTE.Proprietor, H. TILMANS.This excellent establishment, situated Rue Fosse aux Loups, will be found very convenient to visitors who prize cleanliness and comfort. It is very substantially furnished, has an excellent cuisine, and displays every attention to visitors, the charges being moderate. It is well situated for tourists desirous of rendering themselves familiar with the principal objects of interest in the Belgian capital,and the Landlord will be found willing to afford every information in his power.Proprietor speaks English, French, German, Dutch, and Italian. Omnibus to and from the station. The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son accepted here.BRUSSELS.HOTEL DU GRAND MIROIR.Proprietor, Mr. JULES DOURIN.Awell-conducted and old-established hotel, situated Rue De la Montagne, 28,has an excellent reputation for its general comfort, cleanliness, superior accommo- dation, and very moderate charges. The Landlord speaks English, French, Dutch,and German. Omnibuses meet the trains at the Northern and Midi Stations.The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son are accepted here.BRUSSELS.HOTEL DE BELLE VUE AND HOTELDE FLANDRE.Both first-class Hotels, in the best and healthiest situation of the town; near the King's Palace, overlooking the Park and the Place Royale. Every desirable accommodation.E. DREMEL, Proprietor.Address letters or telegrams-Hotel Belle Vue or Hotel Flandre, Brussels.Cook's Coupons accepted.HOTELCOLOGNE.DE HOLLANDE.Proprietor, Mr. H. KRONE.The Hotel de Hollande is delightfully situated opposite the starting and landing place of the Rhine Steamers, and by the new thoroughfare only three minutes from the Railway and Cathedral, opposite the New Bergisch Märkisch Railway Station.It offers from its belvedere, built in the verandastyle, as well as from its windows,the finest view of the Rhine, and a panorama of Cologne. A perfect Cuisine -attentive servants and moderate charges. Omnibuses and private Carriages attached to the Hotel. Billiards and Reading Rooms. Telephone correspondence with Post and Telegraph. Lifts. Now the direct way out to the Quai.Cook's Coupons accepted.CONTINENTAL HOTELS. 23COLOGNE.HOTEL DISC H,IN BRIDGE STREET.Proprietor, Mr. J. CHRISTOPH.This first-class well-known Hotel is most centrally situated close to the Cathe- dral, the Central Railway Station for Berlin, Paris, Brussels, Calais, and Bonn Railways, the Quay of the Rhine Steamers, the newTubular Bridge over the Rhine,&c. Superior accommodation and comfort will be found here for families, tourists,and gentlemen passing through Cologne en route to or returning from the Rhine,the North of Germany, &c. The Hotel omnibus conveys passengers to and from the Railway Stations. Only Hotel possessing Hydraulic Lift.Cook's Coupons accepted.CHAMOUNIX.GRAND HOTEL DE LONDRES ANDD'ANGLETERRE.Proprietor, J. CREPAUX.Houses of the first class; recommended to Families for their comfort and irreproachable cuisine. These Establishments are newly furnished. Situated near to the English Church, the Post Office, and the Telegraph. Splendid view of Mont Blanc. English Gardens. Various languages spoken.Cook's Coupons accepted.DAMASCUS (Syria) .HOTEL VICTORIA.Proprietor, PIETRO PAULICEVICH.This Hotel is in the best situation in Damascus for business, and five minutes from the station of the Diligence to Beyrout.Cook's Coupons accepted.DAVOZ PLATZ (Canton des Grisons) .HOTEL AND PENSION BELVEDERE.J. C. COESTER, Proprietor.Large first-class Hotel, in the celebrated valley of Davos, 5200 feet above the sea level. Particularly recommended to English Travellers for its excellent cuisine,comfortable rooms, and sanitary arrangements ( draining and ventilation on the most improved principles) , combined with most moderate charges. Pension given for a week's stay. English Church Service in the Hotel the whole season (June to April) . Cook's Coupons accepted.DIEPPE.GRAND HOTEL DU NORD ET DE LA REINEVICTORIA.L. DELATTRE, Proprietor.English Family Hotel, Quai Henry IV. Opposite the Newhaven Steamers,close to the Sea. Highly recommended to Families desiring to make a long stay.Special arrangements for the winter, from October till June. Excellent English and French cooking. Omnibusto and from the Railway Station. Table d'hotes àsix o'clock. Restaurant à la carte at any time. First- rate Establishment.Cook's Coupons accepted .24 CONTINENTAL HOTELS.(Soolbad) DURKHEIM. (on the Haardt) .HOTEL FOUR SEASON S.Proprietor, CARL CRON.First-class Baths. Famous Grape cure. Interesting excursions. Famous forest. Forty rooms, comfortably fitted up. Ladies' drawing room. Large dancing and concert saloon. Shady garden. Own vineyards, with best sorts of grapes.Near the Station, the Baths, and the Kurgarten. Splendid view of the Limburg.Good attendance.Cook's Hotel Coupons accepted.FLORENCE.GRAND HOTEL NEW YORK.Proprietors, G. FAINI & Co.This Hotel is situated in the most central part of the Lungarno, full south; and is recommended to Families and single Gentlemen for its good accommodation and moderate charges.Cook's Coupons accepted.FRANKFORT.SWAN HOTEL.Proprietor, GEORGE FAY.First-class Family Hotel. 100 apartments and private sitting-rooms. Every modern convenience, added to strictly moderate prices. Table d'hote at One and Five o'clock. Hot and cold baths, etc. English, French, and Italian spoken.Cook's Coupons accepted.FREIBURG (Baden).HOTEL TRESCHER ZUM PFAUEN.First-class Hotel. The Proprietor is anxious to promote the comfort of Visitors staying in his Hotel, and will give every information as to the points of interest in the neighbourhood.The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son accepted here.GENEVA.GRAND HOTEL DE RUSSIE ANDANGLO-AMERICAN HOTEL.Proprietor, Mr. A. F. RATHGEB."Lift," of newest construction, by Heurtebise, Paris, of greatest convenience to travellers. Magnificent views on the Lakes and Mont Blanc. English spoken.The Hotel Coupons ofMessrs. Cook and Son are accepted here.CONTINENTAL HOTELS. 25GENEVA.HOTEL DE LA METROPOLE.(Property of the Hotel Society at Chamounix. )This splendid first-class Hotel is situated on the Lake of Geneva, facing the English Gardens, where the Band plays three times a week in summer. Newly furnished and fitted up. Good cuisine. Reduced prices for prolonged stay. Information concerning trips to Chamounix and its environs can be obtained in the office Lift,with all latest improvements, including safety- clutch. Bath-room on each floor.Cook's Coupons accepted at this Hotel, and at all the Hotels of the Society, viz.: -Hotel Metropole, Geueva; Hotel Imperial, Chamounix; Hotel Royal, Chamounix.GENOA.HOTEL DE LA VILLE .Proprietor, H. ENGEL.Beautifully situated in the centreofthe town, overlooking the sea andthe environs.Highly recommended, especially to English and American travellers. Omnibus waiting for all trains. Hydraulic Lift, with Safety Apparatus.GRAND HOTEL AND PENSION ANGLAISE,NERVI (near GENOA).Delightful Winter Residence. Same Proprietor. Cook's Coupons accepted.GENOA.BUFFET AT THE RAILWAY STATION.Proprietor, T. ANTONIO.Table d'hote for all direct trains. Dejeuners and Dinners à la Carte, at fixed prices, at all hours. Provisions for voyage.Cook's Coupons accepted.GRINDELWALD.HOTEL DE L'OURS.Proprietor, T. BOSS.Cook's Coupons accepted.HEIDELBERG.HOTEL DE L'EUROPE.Proprietor, Mr. HAEFELI GUYER.This splendid and admirably conducted establishment, in the finest situation of the town, near the railroad and post-office, commands, by its charming position, the best view of the promenade, the Castle, and the mountains; and offers, by its superior arrangements, the comfort of the apartments, and careful and civil attend- ance, all desirable attractions to Travellers . Ladies' sitting-roomand well furnished reading-room. Hot and cold baths, &c. The charges are moderate, and persons desirous of visiting the environs will receive every attention. Omnibus meets every train. The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son are accepted here.26 CONTINENTAL HOTELS.INTERLAKEN.HOTEL VICTORIA.Magnificent first-class family Hotel, the best situated at Interlaken. 20 Saloons.300 Bedrooms. Elevator. Cook's Coupons accepted.ED. RUCHTI, Proprietor.LOECHE LES BAINS ( Leukerbad, Valais, Switzerland) .HOTEL DES ALPES.Proprietors, L. and V. BRUNNER.The largest and most commodiously arranged House is incontestably the " HOTEL DES ALPES," having 116 bedrooms, private sitting-rooms, smoking and billiard- rooms, glazed galleries , calorifer. Baths adjoin the Hotel. The waters have a wide reputation. Hydrotherapic. English Service on Sundays at the Hotel.Cook's Coupons accepted.LUCERNE.HOTEL DU CYGNE (SWAN) .Conducted by Mr. H. HAEFELI.The Swan Hotel is delightfully situated, immediately facing the Steamboat Station, and commanding the best views of the Rigi, and other mountain scenery.Mr. H. HAEFELI gratefully acknowledges the extensive support he has received from English Visitors and Tourists, and begs to intimate that, encouraged by past success, he has now added another large establishment, which will enable him to provide accommodation for greatly increased numbers. Tourists travelling under the arrangements of Messrs. Cook & Son will have the best attention, at the same rates as are charged by the other selected Swiss Hotels . English spoken by the Proprietor. Various Circular Tickets and the Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son can be had here.MACON.GRAND HOTEL DE L'EUROPE.Proprietor, VEUVE BATAILLARD.First-class Hotel; five minutes from the Station. Interpreter. Omnibus. All trains stop at the Mâcon Station..HOTELCook's Hotel Coupons accepted.MAYENCE.DE HOLLANDE.Proprietors, Messrs. KLEEBLATT and STOECKICHT.This well-known and favourite Hotel is situated opposite the landing- place of the Rhine steamers, and near the Railway Station, and is one of the best on the Rhine for the accommodation of English Families and Tourists. The Proprietors have newly furnished the Hotel throughout, and hope, by unremitting attention and moderate prices, to merit the patronage of English Travellers. The Hotel commands a fine view of the Rhine, and will be found very convenient for Visitors.The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son accepted here.CONTINENTAL HOTELS. 27MEIRINGEN.HOTEL DU SAUVAGE.Proprietor, M. E. BAUD EBERSOLD.An old established Hotel and Boarding House, situated opposite the Alpbach and the Reichenbach, of which there is a fine prospect from the Hotel. Splendid view of the Glacier de Rosenlaui, Engelshorner, Wellhorn, &c. The Alpbach Falls are illuminated every evening throughout the season. The Hotel has been newly arranged, and can boast of excellent service and moderate terms. An English Church is situated in the large and beautiful garden of the Hotel. English, French,and German newspapers. Billiard-room; warm and cold baths. The Hotel forms a good head- quarters for tourists desirous of making short excursions in the neigh.bourhood. Telegraph and Post Office facing the Hotel.The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son accepted here.MILAN.GRAND HOTEL DE MILAN.Proprietor, F. SPATZ.First-class Hotel. The only house at Milan which possesses a hydraulic lift.Near the road to the Central Station, the Scala Grand Theatre, Victor Emanuel Gallery, the Cathedral, Telegraph, and the Breda Palace of Fine Arts. Post Office and Railway Agency at the Hotel.HOTELCook's Coupons accepted.MILAN.DE L'EUROPE.CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE, 9 and 11.Proprietor, EN. MARCIONNI.Situated near the Cathedral, the Scala Grand Theatre, Victor Emanuel Gallery,Telegraph, and Post Office. Apartments overlooking the Corso and Garden.Table d'hote, restaurant, reading-room, foreign newspapers, and smoking room.Omnibus to the Station.HOTELCook's Coupons accepted.MONTE CARLO.DES ANGLAIS.Proprietor, L. FRIBERT.Magnificent position in the Public Gardens, facing the Casino and the Sea, full south. Excellent cooking. Patronised by the Nobility and Gentry. Table d'hote and restaurant, reading and smoking-room, English billiard table. Terms moderate.Cook's Hotel Coupons accepted.NAPLES.HOTEL CHIATAMONE AND METROPOLE.Proprietors, P. FERRARIO and RABBIA,This newly-constructed Hotel is situated in a splendid position in view of Vesuvius and the Gulf, and is capable of giving the best accommodation to 100 visitors. Also an American Restaurant.Holders of Cook's Coupons staying at this Hotel are allowed the gratuitous use of the Hammam Bath, annexed to the Hotel, and which is the only one in Italy.28 CONTINENTALHOTELS.NEUHAUSEN, SCHAFFHAUSEN, FALLS of the RHINE.HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF.Proprietor, F. WEGENSTEIN.First-class Hotel, in the best position opposite the FALLS OF THE RHINE,and five minutes from Neuhausen Station. Two hundred rooms. The Schweizerhof has long been known as one of the best houses in Switzerland. No fees . Splendid view of the Rhine Falls and Swiss Alpine Chain. Fine Park and Garden. Special arrangements for a lengthened stay. Omnibus. English Church Service at the Hotel. The Falls are illuminated by electricity and Bengal lights every night during the season. Cook's Hotel Coupons accepted.PARIS.LONDON AND NEW YORK HOTEL.PLACE DU HAVRE. Adjoining Cook's Office.Proprietor, Mr. CHARDON.Well-known to English Visitors for being very centrally situated and homely and comfortable. Arrangements made with families. Pension by the week in winter. Cook's Hotel Coupons accepted.PARIS.THE HOTEL SAINT PETERSBOURG.35 and 33, RUE CAUMARTIN. Proprietor, F. MOTTE.Has just undergone extensive repairs, large premises have been added, and it is now more than double its original size. Bath-room on every floor; hot or cold shower baths and douches; female attendants for ladies. A new lift has been erected upon an improved principle, and furnished with a patent safety brake,which renders accidents impossible. Visitors honouring this establishment with their patronage will ensure spacious, airy, and well-furnished apartments. Food and wines of the best quality. Civil and active attendants, and in fact all the com- forts of home at very moderate charges. The Proprietor speaks English.Cook's Coupons accepted.RIVA.GRAND HOTEL DU SOLEIL.Proprietor, A. TRAFFELLINI.Grand Hotel and Pension, at Riva Lac de Garda. First-class. Situated on the lake, with a garden and baths. English, French, Italian, and German newspapers.Moderate pension charges. Open all the year round.Cook's Coupons accepted.STOCKHOLM (Sweden).GRAND HOTEL.Proprietor, R CADIER.This excellent first-class Hotel, constructed in 1874, is most beautifully situated in the front of the Harbour, and commands a splendid view of Stockholm and its surroundings. Four hundred bedrooms, dining-room, reading-room, baths, café,billiards, steam elevators, &c. Servants speak all languages. Omnibus meets every train. The Hotel Coupons ofMessrs. Cook and Son are accepted.HOTEL RYDBERG.GUSTAF ADOLF'S SQUARE. Proprietor, R. CADIER.First-class Hotel. One hundred and fifty bedrooms. Restaurant. Café,CONTINENTAL HOTELS. 29STRASBOURG.HOTEL DE LA VILLE DE PARIS.Proprietor, L. OSTERMANN.Cook's Coupons accepted.TRIBERG (Black Forest).SCHWARZWALDProprietor, L. BIERINGER.HOTEL.Station, Triberg; situated on a charming height, 3000 feet above sea level, near a romantic cascade of many falls, with park- like extensive promenades, and magni- ficent fir-tree forests, commanding splendid views. It recommends itself by the elegance and greatest possible comfort of its arrangements for all visitors who seek refined recreation or health. English, French, and German spoken. Post and Telegraph in the Hotel.Cook's Hotel Coupons accepted.TRIBERG (Black Forest Railway) .LION HOTE L.F. FORTWANGLER, Proprietor.Situated near the celebrated Waterfalls. Magnificent dining-room. Restaurant.Breakfast and reading-rooms. Excellent cuisine. Post and Telegraph offices in the Hotel. Omnibus to every train. Only place where carriages and horses can be got. French and English spoken. Moderate pension prices from the months of May, June, and September. Table d'hote at one and five.Cook's Coupons accepted.HOTELTURIN.TROMBETTA.IN THE FINEST QUARTER OF THE TOWN, via Roma Place St. Charles, in view of the Porta Nuova Station.Proprietor, LEOPOLD BAGLIONI.Apartments for families, and elegant well-furnished rooms for single gentlemen.Conversation, reading, and smoking-rooms. Excellent accommodation, combined with reasonable terms. Foreign newspapers. Baths. Omnibuses at the station.Arrangements made for a protracted stay. Cook's Coupons accepted.HOTELVENICE.VICTORIA.Managers, MAZZETTA, MICOTTI and Co. This first- class establishment is most centrally situated, close to the PIAZZO S. MARCO (without crossing a single bridge) , the principal theatres and churches.The Hotel Victoria, entirely rebuilt and improved, contains 180 bed-rooms, large and small apartments, furnished with every modern requisite. Beautiful public sitting-rooms, smoking and billiard-rooms, table d'hote, baths, &c. Charges con- siderably more moderate than in any other first rate establishment in the city.Everyfacility afforded for excursions in gondolas to the various parts of the city.Gondolas from the Hotel meet all trains.The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son are accepted here.30 CONTINENTAL HOTELS.WIESBADEN.GRAND HOTEL DU RHIN.Proprietor M. E. MOZEN.An excellent, commodious, and well-conducted establishment, in close proximity to the Kursaal and principal places of this beautiful town. The rooms are com- fortable and well furnished. Every accommodation for families, the cuisine being good, and the charges moderate. Baths provided. Table d'hote. Capital attend- ance. English papers. Situation pleasant. Tourists desirous of making the establishment their head quarters while remaining in the district, will receive every attention. Conveyances and guides provided when required.The Hotel Coupons of Messrs. Cook and Son accepted here.(Switzerland) ZERMATT ( Valais) .HOTELS MONT ROSE, MONT CERVIN,AND ZERMATT.Proprietor, A. SEILER.First-class Hotel, 5000 feet above the sea, at foot of Mount Rosa. Open from May 15. Low prices. Pension.The new HOTEL RIFFEL-ALP is in a beautiful situation, 7000 feet above the sea, surrounded by a grand forest. Opened for the first time July 1. Two hours from Zermatt. Splendid view. Long or short walks. English Church.Cook's Coupons accepted.ZURICH.HOTEL BELLE VUE AU LAC.Proprietor, M. POHL.This splendid and admirably conducted establishment, situated on the shore of the lake, commands, by its charming position, the best view of the lake and the Alps, and offers, by its superior arrangements, the comfort of the apartments, and a careful and civil attendance, all desirable attractions to travellers. Ladies'sitting-room and well furnished reading-rooms. One hundred and twenty- five apartments. Pension arrangements made for families. N.B.-The Belle Vue Hotel is situated close to the Lake. To avoid any mistake be sure to ask for the " Belle Vue au Lac. Advantages:-Stone Staircase to the top of the Hotel;Belvedere on the fourth floor; nearly all the rooms of the Hotel offering a view of the Lake and Alps. Messrs. Cook and Son's Hotel Coupons accepted.All Communications relating to Advertisem*nts in COOK'S TOURIST HANDBOOKSto be addressed to THOMAS COOK & SON(Advertisem*nt Department) , Tourist Offices ,Ludgate Circus, London.ADVERTIsem*nTS. 31MÉDAILLE D'ARGENT 1ÈRE CLASSE À L'EXPOSITION DE 1867.JACOB FRÈRES,QUIMPER, ST. MALO,8, SUR LE PARC 1 , RUE ST.VINCENT(À Côté de l'Hôtel de l'Epée) .CURIOSITÉS BRETONNES.Vieux Meubles.Céramique Ancienne.Vieilles Ceintures.Vieux Tabliers.Broderies Bretonnes.Robes de Chambre.Gilets. Coussins.Tapis de Table.Pen-Bâs.Antiquités.Cabans. Pantoufles.Poupées.SMOKING JACKET.Broderies BretonnesSURVêtements de Chambre.COSTUMES BRETONSPOURTRAVESTIS.NOTICEto GENTLEMEN TOURISTS.See in our Shop the Interior of a Farm in Brittany.DR. J. COLLIS BROWNE'S CHLORODYNE ORIGINAL AND ONLY GENUINE.103COUGHS,COLDS,ASSTHMA,DR.BRONCHITIS.R. J. COLLIS BROWNE'S CHLORO- DYNE. This wonderful remedy was discovered by Dr. J. COLLIS BROWNE, and the word CHLORODYNE coined by him expressly to designate it . There never has been a remedy so vastly beneficial to suffering hu- manity, and it is a subject of deep concern to the public that they should not be imposed upon by having imita- tions pressed upon them on account of cheapness, and as being the same thing. Dr. J. COLLIS BROWNE'S CHLORODYNE is a totally distinct thing from the spurious compounds called Chlorodyne, the use of which only ends in disappointment and failure .DRR. J. COLLIS BROWNE'S CHLORO.DYNE.- Vice-Chancellor Sir W. PAGE WOOD, STATED PUBLICLY in Court that Dr. COLLIS BROWNE was UNDOUBTEDLY the J.INVENTOR of CHLORODYNE,that the whole story of the defendant was deliberately untrue, and he re- gretted to say it had been sworn to.- See The Times, July 13th, 1864.DR. J. COLLIS BROWNE'S CHLORO- DYNE is a LIQUID MEDICINE which ASSUAGES PAIN of EVERY KIND, affords a calm, refreshing sleep WITHOUT HEADACHE, and INVIGORATES the NERVOUS SYSTEM when exhausted.DR.R. J. COLLIS BROWNE'S CHLORO DYNE is theCREAT SPECIFIC FORCHOLERA, DYSENTERY,DIARRHEA.The GENERAL BOARD of HEALTH, London, REPORT that it ACTS as a CHARM, one dose gene- rally sufficient.Dr. GIBBON, Army Medical Staff, Calcutta, states: "TWO DOSES COMPLETELY CURED ME of DIARRHEA."R. J. COLLIS BROWNE'S CHLORO.DYNErapidly cuts short all attacks of DREPILEPSY, SPASMS, COLIC,PALPITATION, HYSTERIA.DR. J. COLLIS BROWNE'S CHLORO- DYNE is the TRUE PALLIATIVE inNEURALGIA, GOUT, CANCER,TOOTHACHE,RHEUMATISM.IMPORTANT CAUTION. The IMMENSE SALE of this REMEDY has given rise to many UNSCRUPULOUS IMITATIONS.N.B. EVERY BOTTLE OF GENUINE CHLORODYNE BEARS on the GOVERNMENT STAMP the NAME of the INVENTOR,DR. J. COLLIS BROWNE.SOLD IN BOTTLES, 1s. 1d. , 2s . 9d. ,4s. 6d. , by all Chemists.SOLE MANUFACTURER,J. T. DAVENPORT, 33, GREAT RUSSELL STREET, W.C.From SYMES & Co., Pharmaceutical Chemists, Medical Hall, Simla,-January 5, 1880.To J. T. DAVENPORT, Esq . , 33, Great Russell Street, Bloomsbury, London.DEAR SIR, -Have the goodness to furnish us with your best quotation for Dr. J. Collis Browne's Chlorodyne, as, being large buyers, we would much prefer doing busi- ness with you direct than through the wholesale houses. We embrace this opportunity of congratulating you upon the wide- spread reputation this justly- esteemed medicine has earned for itself, not only in Hindostan, but all over the East. As a remedy of general utility, we much question whether a better is imported into the country, and we shall be glad to hear of its finding a place in every Anglo-Indian home. The other brands, we are happy to say, are now relegated to the native bazaars, and, judging from their sale, we fancy their sojourn there will be but evanescent. We could multiply instances ad infinitum of the extraordinary efficacy of Dr. Collis Browne's Chlorodyne in Diarrhoea and Dysentery, Spasms, Cramps, Neuralgia, the Vomiting of Pregnancy, and as a general sedative, that have occurred under our personal observa- tion during many years. In Choleraic Diarrhoea, and even in the more terrible form of Cholera itself, we have witnessed its surprisingly controlling power. We have never used any other form of this medicine than Collis Browne's, from a firm conviction that it is decidedly the best, and also from a sense of duty we owe to the profession and the public, as we are of opinion that the substitution of any other than Collis Browne's is adeliberate breach of faith on the part of the chemist to prescriber and patient alike.We are, Sir, faithfully yours,SYMES & Co.,Members ofthe Pharm. Society ofGreat Britain, His Excellency the Viceroy's Chemists."Misery&Crimeare the Children of Bad Sanitary Conditions."ENO'SFRUITSALTISA BLESSINGIN ALLAILMENTSWASTE OF LIFEENGLAND' MASSACRES IN THE SOUDAN OR AT HOME. 'We look with horror on the late massacre at SINKAT, yet we allow massacres from bad Sanitary Laws worse thanWATERLOOto occur once a month in our midst (which can be prevented) almost without a protest.FORTHE MOST PRACTICAL MODE of preventing disease,read a large illustrated sheet given with each bottle of ENO'S FRUIT SALT.THE FRUIT SALT (one of Nature's own products) keeps the blood pure and free from Fevers, Feverishness, Gouty, Rheu- matic, and other Blood Poisons ,Liver Complaints, &c.THOUSANDS OF MILES IN INDIA.-"For many years Ihave found ENO'S FRUIT SALT of the utmost value in the hot and dry seasons, also in the monsoons. Ihave travelled some thousands of miles in India during the last thirteen years, and in all the various changes of climate I have found ENO'S FRUIT SALT the most refreshing beverage I could get,especiallyafter long, heavymarches,and other fatiguing duties, to which WHICH MAY BE PREVENTED.the British soldier of late has been exposed to. I have always been able to keep a supply of the FRUIT SALT on hand, and could obtain it in most stations. Mydear wife, during her travail, found it to be the most useful thing that could be obtained . Many others here have found ENO'S FRUIT SALT better than any beverage yet in the Indian market. I am, yours, &c. , A WARDEE, Central Military Prison, Poonah, Bombay, January 30, 1881.-To Mr. J. C. Eno."140.000 PERSONSEVERYYEAR DIEUNNATURAL DEATHS. LINDSELCTHE REGION OF THE ETERNAL FIRE. -Charles Marvin, in his account of ajourney to the Petroleum Region of the Caspian, says, " It was anticipating history abit; but there is very little doubt that before long it will be possible to do the journey from London to the Caspian-a distance of over 2.500 miles-in a week. Any medicines the traveller may require can easily be obtained at the chemists' shops in Russian towns above all, a few bottles of ENO'S FRUIT SALT, perhaps the best medicine in the world for the Caspian region, where the heat and dust occasionally provoke symptoms needing a gentle and invigorating treatment."-From Newcastle Daily Chronicle.SUDDEN CHANGES OF WEATHER, ANY EMERGENCY, INFLUENZA,FEVERISH COLDS. - DRAWING AN OVERDRAFT ON THE BANK OF LIFE.-Late hours, fa*gged, unnatural excitement, breathing impure air, too rich food, alcoholic drink, gouty, rheumatic, and other blood poisons, biliousness , sick-headache, skin eruptions,pimples on the face, want of appetite, sourness of stomach, &c. , use ENO'S FRUIT SALT.It is pleasant, cooling, health-giving, refreshing, and invigorating. You cannot overstate its great value in keeping the blood pure and free from disease.CAUTION. -Examine each Bottle, and see that the Capsule is marked " ENO'S FRUIT SALT. " Without it you have been imposed upon by a worthless imitation. Sold by all Chemists. Directions in Sixteen Lar guages how to Prevent Disease.Prepared only at ENO'S FRUIT SALT WORKS, HATCHAM,LONDON, S.E., by J. C. Eno's Patent. No se onELO.ESON81.SAMPSON & CO. ,SOLE MAKERS OF THESURPLICE SHIRT.Six for45s.OR51s.COLOURED FRENCH CAMBRIC. 6 for 45s.SARATTA GAUZE. Suitable for Travelling. 6 for 45s.CALCUTTA FLANNEL SHIRTS. 10s. 6d.PYJAMA'S SLEEPING SUITS. 12s. 6d. and 16s, 6d.TRUNKS. PORTMANTEAUS. UMBRELLAS.DENT'S DOGSKIN, CHEVRETTE, and KID GLOVES.Detailed Priced Outfit Lists and Self-Measurement Cards sent on application.TAILORING DEPARTMENT.Tweed or Angola Trousers, 16s. , 21s.Homespun Suits, 63s. , 70s.Diagonal Cloth Morning Coat and Waistcoat, 75s , 90s.Blue Serge Suits, 63s. , 70s.TERMS: ALL GOODS MARKED IN PLAIN FIGURES. CASH, 5 PER CENT. DISCOUNT.SAMPSON & CO.,Hosiers, Glovers, India and Colonial Outfitters,268, 270, OXFORD STREET,FACING HANOVER SQUARE GATES, LONDON, W.BY APPOINTMENT TO H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES.ALLEN'S PORTMANTEAUSAND STRONG DRESS BASKETS,37, WEST STRAND, LONDON.New Illustrated Catalogues of 500 other Articles for Home orContinental Travelling, Post Free.ALLEN'SWARDROBELADY'S WARDROBE PORTMANTEAU.RAILWAY PORTMANTEAU.ALLEN'S PATENT QUADRUPLE PORTMANTEAU.HMALLETIContinental Solid Leather Po.tmanteau. Secure Lock.CATALOGUESFREE.CASH DISCOUNT 10 per cent.ALLEN'SPATENTBACALLEN'S PATENT BAG(SOLID LEATHER) .SILVER-FITTED GLADSTONPRIZE MEDALS FOALLEN'SNEAIVORY).LENCE.