I rather like the American expression “fall” for this time of year. It describes not just the dropping leaves, but serves as a reminder that we are coming to the end of so many home-grown fruits and vegetables and we need to catch them while we can. Courgettes, figs, blackberries and tomatoes are cheap and plentiful. This month’s recipes celebrate the best of our autumn bounty.
Greengage frangipane tart
SERVES 8
For the pastry:
flour 200g
butter 100g
egg yolk 1
water a little
For the filling:
butter 100g
caster sugar 125g
eggs 2
ground almonds 125g
plain flour 60g
greengages or small plums 400g
You will also need:
a round 22cm tart tin at least 3.5cm deep with a removable base
beans for baking blind
Put the flour and butter, cut into small pieces, into the bowl of a food processor. Add a pinch of salt and blitz to fine breadcrumbs. If you prefer, rub the butter into the flour with your fingertips. Add the egg yolk and enough water to bring the dough to a firm ball. The less you add the better, as too much will cause your pastry case to shrink in the oven.
Pat the pastry into a flat round on a floured surface, then roll out large enough to line the tart tin. Lightly butter the tin, dust it with a small amount of flour, shake off any surplus then lower in the round of pastry. Push the dough right into the corner where the rim joins the base without stretching the pastry. Make certain there are no holes or tears. Trim the overhanging pastry and place in the fridge to chill for about 20 minutes.
Set the oven at 200C/gas mark 6. Put a baking sheet in the oven to warm. Line the pastry case with kitchen foil or baking parchment and baking beans and slide on to the hot baking sheet. Bake for 20 minutes, then remove from the oven and carefully lift the beans out. Return the pastry case to the oven for 5 minutes or so, until the surface is dry to the touch. Remove from the oven and set aside. Turn the oven down to 160C/gas mark 3, and return the baking sheet to the oven.
To make the filling, using a food mixer cream the butter and sugar together till pale and fluffy. Lower the speed, then mix in the eggs and then slowly fold in the ground almonds and flour. Spoon the almond filling into the cooked pastry case, smoothing it lightly with the back of the spoon.
Cut the greengages or plums in half and remove their stones. Place the greengages or plums on top of the almond filling, neatly or randomly as the mood takes you. Slide the tart on to the hot baking sheet and bake for 40 minutes till the filling is well risen and golden brown. Remove the tart from the oven and allow to cool slightly before serving.
Baked, spiced tomatoes
If you cannot find small cans of creamed coconut, then break off 100g of coconut cream and make up to 160ml with boiling water.
SERVES 4
large plum or vine tomatoes 8
For the filling:
groundnut oil 1 tbsp
mustard seeds 1 tsp
onions 2, finely chopped
garlic 3 cloves
ginger 3cm piece
chilli 1 red, medium hot
red or orange peppers 2
ground turmeric 1 tsp
cherry tomatoes 8
creamed coconut 160ml
Warm the groundnut oil in a deep saucepan, cook the mustard seeds till they start to pop, then add the onions. Leave to soften and colour while you peel and slice the garlic, peel and finely shred the ginger and chop the chilli. Add the garlic, ginger and chilli to the pan and continue cooking till the onions are pale, golden brown. Core and thinly slice the peppers and stir in. Continue cooking over a moderate heat, with an occasional stir, till the pepper starts to soften, then stir in the ground turmeric, and the cherry tomatoes, halved.
Set the oven at 200C/gas mark 6. Remove a slice from one side of each large tomato (or the top if you are using large vine tomatoes), then scoop out the seeds and core from each tomato to give a deep hollow. Chop the filling you have removed, discarding any tough cores, and add to the onion mixture. When it has cooked down to a soft, brightly coloured mush, pour in the coconut, bring to the boil, season with salt, then remove from the heat.
Fill the hollowed-out tomatoes with the mixture, spooning any extra around them. Bake for 40 minutes until the tomatoes are soft and fragrant.
Courgette and ricotta tart
SERVES 6
courgettes 400g
olive oil 2 tbsp
puff pastry 375g
For the filling:
ricotta 400g
garlic a large clove
basil leaves 15g
parmesan 75g, grated
eggs 2, lightly beaten
cream 150ml
plain flour 2 heaped tbsp
You will also need:
a rectangular baking tin (a swiss roll tin) measuring 20cm x 30cm
Slice the courgettes in half lengthways (or in thin slices if you are using large ones). Warm the olive oil in a shallow pan then add the courgettes and leave to soften over a moderate heat. They should be translucent but still firm.
Set the oven at 200C/gas mark 6 and place a baking sheet in the oven. This will help the pastry to bake crisply. Roll out the puff pastry and line a shallow, rectangular baking sheet, 20cm by 30cm, with it. Put the ricotta in a bowl, season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, then peel and crush the garlic and add to the ricotta together with the torn up basil leaves, most of the grated parmesan and the two lightly beaten eggs, cream and flour.
Spread the ricotta mixture over the pastry in the baking tin, then place the cooked courgettes on top. Shake over the remaining parmesan. Bake immediately for 30 minutes or until the pastry is golden and the tart has puffed up.
Lettuce and hot bacon salad
SERVES 4
For the salad:
mixed salad leaves 4 handfuls
smoked streaky bacon 8 rashers
For the dressing:
Dijon mustard 1 tbsp
lemon the juice of half
basil leaves 12 large
egg yolks 2
olive oil 4 tbsp
To make the dressing, put the Dijon mustard, lemon juice, basil leaves and the egg yolks in a blender and blitz for a few seconds. Add the oil, slowly, until the dressing has the consistency of double cream.
Gently rinse the salad leaves, drain and dry in a spinner. Grill or fry the bacon till crisp. Drain on kitchen paper to remove excess fat then snip into short pieces. Put the leaves into a salad bowl, add bacon and dressing then toss gently together and eat immediately.
Frozen blackberry parfait
SERVES 8
blackcurrants, fresh or frozen 150g
sugar 1 tbsp
water 2 tbsp
shortbread biscuits 200g
shelled pistachios 6 tbsp
vanilla ice cream 900g
blackberries 250g
You will also need:
a loaf tin or freezer box 22cm long, 12cm wide and 7cm deep, lined with clingfilm
Pull the blackcurrants from their stalks and put them in a small saucepan with the sugar and water. Bring to the boil, lower the heat and leave for 2 or 3 minutes till the berries start to burst and the sugar melts. Set aside.
Put the biscuits in the bowl of a food processor with the pistachios and blitz till the biscuits are reduced to coarse crumbs – this will take seconds. Take care not to over-process – stop while you can clearly see the pistachios.
Let the ice cream soften slightly, then tip into a mixing bowl. Add the blackberries and the biscuit and pistachio crumbs and mix gently but firmly – the ingredients should be clearly defined. Transfer a third to the lined loaf tin, pushing the mixture into the corners but without flattening it too much. Spoon in half of the blackcurrants and their juice, then another third of the ice cream mixture followed by the rest of the blackcurrants, and the remaining ice cream mixture. Cover with overhanging clingfilm. Freeze for 4 hours. Unmould, slice with warm knife.
Fig chutney
MAKES 2 LARGE JARS
soft brown sugar 250g
figs 8 large, about 1kg
malt vinegar 150ml
cider vinegar 150ml
onions 250g, roughly chopped
sultanas 250g
salt 1 tsp
allspice 1 tsp
black peppercorns ½ tsp, cracked
coriander seeds 1 tsp
Warm the sugar in a bowl in a low oven. Roughly chop the figs, removing any tough stalks, then put them in a large, stainless steel or enamelled pan. Add the vinegars, onions, sultanas, salt, allspice, peppercorns and coriander seeds, then bring to the boil. Simmer for 30 minutes until the onions and fruit are soft.
Stir in the sugar. Place over a low heat, bring slowly to the boil, then turn the heat down so the chutney bubbles gently. Leave for 10-15 minutes, with the occasional stir to stop it sticking, until the mixture is thick and jam like. Bottle while hot and seal.
